Database Users

Love HD2, only few things

This phone is amazing, speed, screen, programs, etc.
Only two things I do not like is:
1. No mini USB connection
2. Battery could have been more than 1230 mAh.
Maybe HD3 will be dream machine.

Micro-USB is now the default mobile port and ALL phones will have it (bar the iPhone). It's been agreed
http://gizmodo.com/5389063/united-nations-approves-microusb-universal-phone-charger-standard

rocksford77 said:
This phone is amazing, speed, screen, programs, etc.
Only two things I do not like is:
1. No mini USB connection
2. Battery could have been more than 1230 mAh.
Maybe HD3 will be dream machine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I also agree that this device is blazingly fast compared with previous HTC offerings, I'm with you too on the two issues you've noted.
On point 2, I suspect that it won't be too long for me to pick up an after-market extended battery for the HD2 as I did for the Touch Diamond.
Point 1, concerning the miniUSB... I have to agree, it's bad enough having multiple devices, that require all different types of connections. Seems if one travels anywhere carrying a range of different electronic devices then half the baggage in-tow is all the cables. It's ridiculous! I have several Nokia phones, which I haven't used for several years since I picked up my HTC P3300 when it was first released. Great device with all the usual goodies that we come to expect now from HTC. I especially liked the way I could navigate the menus/device using trackball and scroll-wheel, which is especially great when using GPS. Since the purchase of the P3300 I've bought two other HTC's; TD & TD2. Both great additions, luv both of them but miss the trackball and scroll-wheel.
Aside from each being feature packed & all round great devices, they've all shared the same mini-USB connection, which meant I only needed to have one power cable either in my car, on my motorcycle or elsewhere, especially important for when I use GPS and want external power. The flip-side being that the same connection also was utlilised for the headphone/FM antenna, which was no biggie for me, I didn't use them much anyway.
Fast forward to my HD2 purchase a few weeks back, to my surprise the miniUSB connection is gone which I never realised until after I'd bought it -had I known I may have reconsidered the purchase. While I have dedicated miniUSB power & car accessory chargers, I already have a couple of universal car-charger kits which come with multiple plug adaptors. All the ones I have and all those I have seen since buying the HD2, have miniUSB connectors, and not one has this new slimline connector. Even yesterday I checked out a number of different stores and none have the new connector.
What a pain in-the-arse, I now have to carry two different connectors if I want to use my HD2 and any other older HTC... especially a pain to setup on my motorcycle. I've even thought about going to a tech repair store and asking them to swap-out the connector to the miniUSB. I'll see...
Just my two kuais worth... (Rant over) from a foreigner based in mainland China.

Hardware for Android Device

Hey guys,
Recently I have been seeing companies releasing devices for Android that are not phones e.g.
Android USB Sticks:
techland.time.com/2012/05/18/pc-in-your-pocket-74-android-stick-goes-on-sale/
or more recently a game console:
kickstarter.com/projects/ouya/ouya-a-new-kind-of-video-game-console
I'm in University now studying Electrical Engineering and I've had an interest in electronics since I was young, so now I thought it was possible for me to design my own device. But so far my only luck with getting anywhere was drafting designs of the device and finding development boards online. Sure i could start off with development boards to test software (which i'm planning to do) but I am quite lost as to where I should go next. For example where to I get a manufacturer to produce my device or where to purchase a processor/motherboard that is custom designed for my project.
It would be really great if someone could point me in the right direction,
Scott

that's an ambitious project, I've just finished 2 degrees in EE and in the long term i'm looking to do similiar projects, but right now it is beyond my capabilities. But what i have done is buy a very cheap dev kit from STmicroelectronics with their ARM m4 chip onboard. (STM32F4)
this chip should be powerful enough to get started on and all the pins are broken out, plus the device includes a programmer and is powered over usb.
It was less than €20 but is still sat in its box as I've a lot to learn before cracking it open.
Have you any experience with RTOS for ARM, Keil offer a free trial version of their well respected uVision MDK software, it supports the above board directly and removes the need to configure a tool chain etc. Personally i'm trying to get eclipse on ubuntu to program it bit Keil uVision will allow me to blink LED's etc so long as my program is under 4Kb.
I too am only starting down this project but i hope the little i know has been of some help.
As for custom devices, well thats a whole other ball game, you will need to make out a schematic, then a board layout, then gerber files. After that you need a small run on a pick and place / reflow line. It's very rare these work out first time round, attention has to be paid to details like noise sinking, pull up resistors, matching logic levels and optically isolating external devices etc.
It's great that you are looking beyond your course material, I've learned much more from personal geekery rather than just taking notes from a lecturer. Anything you do outside the course will benefit you in a better degree at the end.

I've never been designing device from scratch, and I'm also just first grade student. Anyway I could imagine how this might look for small company or single person:
1) Decide what do you want to build-up. Easiest todo is custom dev-board, it can be always redesigned and packed into tablet case. The hardest to-do is mobile phone, and it's nearly impossible to create such thing due to high level of embedding everything, and need to sign pretty serious agreements with RF CPU (and other things like transceivers, antennas, duplexers) supplier like Infineon or Qualcomm.
2) Think what main components you'll need, like LPDDR, SoC (CPU), PMIC (SoC manufacturer usually recommend PMICs to be used and provide reference board schemas for using both), battery fuel gauge, charging controller (both might be built into PMIC, depends on model), screen+touchscreen (there are dozens of such, one might want to decide its size already, but in case of dev-board like build it usually can be replaced by some smaller/bigger with small HW modifications or without modifications at all), sensors like gyro, compass, pressure, light, whatever.
3) Search through suppliers websites and decide what models of ICs you want to use (I'd pick only open hardware), order engineering samples and get reference schemas, rather start from SoC(OMAP4460 for eg.)+PMIC pair, then decide about the rest.
4) Don't forget about extension slots like USB ports, DC supply, serial converters, whatsoever.
5) Start designing PCB board. IMO it's impossible for begginer to project any usable PCB for embedded system, I'm begginer and I'm failing with simplest boost HF DC/DC converters (like 10-20 parts on board), while such board would have thousands of elements on it, and multi layer board to fit it everything in some rational size.
6) Find company that will make prototype for you - they should make board + solder all the components you provide them - one with no professional (and very, very expensive) soldering stations is not able to solder BGA components at home.
7) Test it out.
Relatively, assuming that main components are free engineering samples, this might be not so money-expensive way to create some useful stuff. But for sure it's very, very time expensive, and begginer alone will nearly for sure fail.
//edit:
I just re-read my post and figured it might be pretty demotivating. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I'd suggest you to start from something easier - ARM dev board is the thing you need. As Quiggers stated above.

Just noticed these - cheap and powerful dev boards:
http://wiki.xbmc.org/index.php?title=Allwinner_A10#Other

Custom design
I'm looking to do the same, has this worked for you? I'm looking to build a custom android based mobile device as the original poster. I haven't had any look finding the correct electrical or device engineer to provide me any assistance. Are you available to assist?
Quiggers said:
that's an ambitious project, I've just finished 2 degrees in EE and in the long term i'm looking to do similiar projects, but right now it is beyond my capabilities. But what i have done is buy a very cheap dev kit from STmicroelectronics with their ARM m4 chip onboard. (STM32F4)
this chip should be powerful enough to get started on and all the pins are broken out, plus the device includes a programmer and is powered over usb.
It was less than €20 but is still sat in its box as I've a lot to learn before cracking it open.
Have you any experience with RTOS for ARM, Keil offer a free trial version of their well respected uVision MDK software, it supports the above board directly and removes the need to configure a tool chain etc. Personally i'm trying to get eclipse on ubuntu to program it bit Keil uVision will allow me to blink LED's etc so long as my program is under 4Kb.
I too am only starting down this project but i hope the little i know has been of some help.
As for custom devices, well thats a whole other ball game, you will need to make out a schematic, then a board layout, then gerber files. After that you need a small run on a pick and place / reflow line. It's very rare these work out first time round, attention has to be paid to details like noise sinking, pull up resistors, matching logic levels and optically isolating external devices etc.
It's great that you are looking beyond your course material, I've learned much more from personal geekery rather than just taking notes from a lecturer. Anything you do outside the course will benefit you in a better degree at the end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Technexion
I have used OMAP3530 CPU. The TAO3530 is a good starting point and you can get a Tsunami board.

s8500 board with tablet touchscreen
hi dudes,
i have an old wave s8500 but the screen is broken. and i have an old tablet screen 7" from herotab8/dropad8.
can i use the tablet screen with the s8500 board? is not drivers necessary for the touchscreen? and where will i get the drivers?
and do i not need the datasheets of the pins to connect?
)

What we REALLY need is for someone to make a SoC that's basically like the one in the Raspberry Pi, but substitutes a FPGA for the GPU that's big enough to re-implement GPU functionality... long after the chip has left the fab & gotten soldered onto an open-ended generic ARM stick with no specific purpose, and thus manages to officially avoid getting infected by DRM-mandated licensing terms (ie, anything *officially* licensed to support h.264 or HDMI) that keep making totally open drivers nearly impossible. After all, if the drivers were 100% open source, there's no way they can stop you from commenting out the part responsible for implementing Cinavia, or lying to endpoint devices (like your home theater amp) about HDCP compliance
To deflect infringement claims, a company that made Android boards from the FPGA-equipped SoCs could make it with a soldered-on DVI port instead of HDMI (HDMI connectors are encumbered by viral licensing, DVI isn't), and put a reference design on their website for a wacky octopus cable that used the DVI-A pins to output unbuffered 3-bit pseudo-VGA, and used the remaining pins as a high-density breakout connector for a bunch of half-duplex RS-485 ports and GPIO lines that just *happened* to use DVI/HDMI logic levels
Of course, you'd never be able to legally sell a product based upon that board to end users in the US with the taboo technologies supported "out of the box", but other companies outside the US not subject to our self-inflicted wackiness could, and hopefully WOULD, buy enough of those boards to drive the price down enough to make them cheap for American hobbyists to buy on eBay and use for our own guerrilla Android-powered hardware projects.
In theory, the Xilinx Zynq 7000 series sort of does this... but at the moment, they're so ungodly expensive, you could almost buy a half-dozen Nexus 7 tablets for the price of their Android-capable dev board.

sounds great dude

Nice
Nice post

Hardware for Android D
Its not even turning on now...guess i will have to take it to a computer shop now, are you sure it has to be major things like "dead hard drive to a burned up chip to a bad motherboard."?

Dell Venue 8 Pro - links on USB & Power

I stumbled across these forum posts looking into how to get power and data at the same time on the Dell Venue 8 Pro.
Many good ideas on cable combos and hacking USB hubs to get the power and data working:
http://forum.tabletpcreview.com/dell/59328-venue-8-usb-power-same-time.html
For the more adventurous, someone cracked theirs open and added a 64GB USB key:
http://forum.tabletpcreview.com/dell/60553-adding-128gb-flash-venue-8-pro.html

The USB hub mod looks very doable, petergunn posted some videos in that thread which show it step by step and you can pick up the hub (or one very like it) on eBay for less than £2. I ordered one a few days ago to try it myself.
The internal USB mod is a different matter, the soldering points involved look very small. I bought the 64GB model, so coupled with a 64GB SDXC I'm not going to be running low on space any time soon unless I really load the thing up with movies or games.
I have to say I'm pretty impressed with the device though. Bay trails are the first Atom chips Intel will be using the Pentium brand for (for laptop/desktop models) and you can see why. Performance-wise it feels like a huge jump from cedar/clover trail. I've installed a bunch of games on it (inc. Blood Bowl and SC2:Heart of the Swarm) and it plays them well, even on around medium settings. Windows 8.1 is a different matter though, I've already hit several annoyances.

I ended up getting a more expensive but similar hub. The cheap ones seem to be sold out everywhere unless they are shipping from China and I didn't feel like waiting for weeks.
I picked my Dell up as an open box at Micro Center for $139. I don't even know why it was so cheap. It looked like it was never out of the box. I couldn't be happier with the tablet especially for the price. Not as elegant a device as my RT but so much more useful.

cx1 said:
I ended up getting a more expensive but similar hub. The cheap ones seem to be sold out everywhere unless they are shipping from China and I didn't feel like waiting for weeks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your soldering skills are as bad as mine, that was probably a good idea. Mine arrived today, and the 'mini' ones on eBay from Hong Kong are very small inside, with much smaller pads than the ones successfully modified by the guys over on tablet PC review. I attempted the mod today but something must have gone wrong as all I got was "unrecognised device" when plugging it in. In the end I gave up on that and just went for the simpler option (see attachment) and made an adapter from some spare bits and pieces.
It's worth noting that there are a few caveats though, these are mentioned on the thread but quite a few pages in. Firstly, it will only trickle charge while connected to another device, not fast charge (you can verify this by checking in the Dell diagnostics, accessible by holding volume up and the power button when switching on). In practice, this means the battery level should remain around the same if the tablet is on. I think this explains why there is no official docking station for the 8 Pro from Dell as it wouldn't be practical to charge it like this for everyday use. Secondly, you're going to need more power than the Dell 10 watt charger can provide if you want to charge the tablet and run power hungry devices like external hard drives - if I connect my external Western Digital drive to my adapter, it works but the tablet stops charging entirely. A solution is to use a powered hub (or if you're doing the hub mod, attach a second charger to the hub's power connector).
I'm really jealous of the prices the 8 Pro seems to be going for in the US, it's a steal as those. In the UK, I got my 64GB model for £279 which is around $458 USD. That's still cheaper than the official Dell UK price, believe it or not!
-edit-
Forget what I wrote about trickle charging, it turns out this was due to insufficient wire thickness. Something to watch out for when modifying your hub though. My tablet is now properly charging when connected to my external hard drive, no powered hub needed

Well, we could actually make a usb 3.0 hub out of the LTE socket.... Took pics of the shields off, I was thinking the notched corner was an sdcard slot. NOPE!

Not USB related, but another mod of sorts (firmware) has been mentioned over on tablet PC review. V3D says it's possible to downgrade to BIOS A03 (with the advanced eMMC/SD speed settings) but keep A04's embedded controller update that fixed the low charge problem:
I just downloaded [A03] right from Dell & used the command /writeromfile to extract the BIOS rom then used AFUWIN from AMI's site to flash the Main bios image & NVRAM. [...]
I don't recommend using DDR50 on the MicroSD card slot, From my benchmark testing I found it had no effect on the speed & others have reported the MicroSD card to becomes unstable, randomly dismounting at times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll be giving it a go myself tomorrow.
-edit-
Confirmed as working, use the AptioV version of afuwin.

something does not go according to instructions complete hanging PC

Voyo A1 mini

Got this information from slatedroid by ebsbow, online.
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"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
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Voyo A1 with Intel Atom Quad-core:
- Intel Atom Z3735D [email protected](2core burstmode@1.8Ghz)
- Intel Atom Z3735f is the new cheaper slower version.
- Using the next-gen 22nm technology. More power less energy.
- Intel HD technology GPU(build around 4 EU and 700Mhz)
- 8" new technology 1280*800 IPS screen(approx. 194dpi)
- 2Gb Single channel DDR3L-RS
- 32Gb internal space(minus installation and restore space)
- SD card expansion slot for extra 32Gb~64Gb
- Windows 8.1(64bit) full version(not RT)
- Supporting virtualization, x86 apps, Metro apps...
- HDMI output(Max.FHD)
- Charging port 9v 2Amps.
- Micro usb OTG(also for 5v charging)
- BT 4.0, Wifi b-g-n
- Dual camera's: 2.0Mpx(Pipo w2/Livefan: 5Mpx). Minimal but handy.
- Accelerometer, Gyroscope.
- Plastic shell, sturdy and basic clean design.
- About the same weight and dimensions as a Nexus 7(first gen)
- Comes in various funky color:
Gray(metal), White, Green, Blue, Pink(dark), Yellow.. No black.
Originally based on the Emdoor-i8080(Z3735G China)
- i8180
- 8080-A
- 8080-C
Look a likes include:
2G 32G(64-bit single channel)
- Pipo W2(Z3735D China) xda
- Croma 1179(Z3735D India)
- QUMO Vega 8008W(Z3735F Russia?)
- LIVEFAN F8C(Z3735D China+64Gb version)
- sTouch W801(Z3735D China)
- SonQi w1088(Z3735D China)
- Jumper EZ pad(Z3735E China)
1G 16Gb(32-bit single channel)
- CUBE iwork U80GT(Z3735E or Z3735D+gps(..)) xda
- FNF Fine 8(Z3735E)
- Other...?
First look at the price point, then acknowledge it's an cool little 8" Windows 8.1 Intel Atom device.
Nice screen and battery life is great in normal use. The power drain of running full fletch PC games,
which are fare more complex then Android games, is much higher. Metro games are obviously more
suitable. They are efficient, smaller and modern. Nonetheless some older PC games run surprising well.
It is also possible to install Android(x86 64-bit) or an Linux distribution if you like. And because of its x86
nature and running an full fletch OS, all Windows applications will work fine. With a few exceptions like
running the latest Photoshop CC. This may prove not very productive or efficient on an 8" screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has come to our attention that some sellers are dispatching fake D types to buyers.
Obviously we will not stand for this. If you are victim of this let us know(post or pm), we will post them here.
If you buy through paypal or aliexpress you are secured with buyers protection. Make use of it to complain.
-Banggood
-Amazon(lots of seller sell fake D)
-ebay(lots of seller sell fake D)
-Aliexpress(lots of seller sell fake D)
-efox
...
Bought an fake sdcard? Let s now what shop. Post or pm.
Check fakes sdcard(suggestion by ebsbow)
-Amazon(lots of seller sell fake 64gb)
-ebay(lots of seller sell fake 64gb)
Additional Slatedroid Voyo A1 forum
Problems:
<i>In case you are locked in an update loop, use this recovery walkthrough(courtesy of Downstar) <here>

And then there is some other info. (Also by ebsbow.)
For those who don't know yet, the differences between Z3735 models are designated with D - E - F or G.
All-in-all the following applies.
Spoiler
Type 4 SoC model D of the Z3735 series seems the best choice for more extended use. The other
versions are streamlined from there. Not just lower memory and functions but the price is very competitive.
They all run at the same core frequency of Quad-1.58Ghz to Dual-1.8Ghz. So the streamlining consists by
reducing the amount of internal hardware components.
Because of this the F version will have the same memory values as D but will effectively run a little bit slower
in real world applications then the latter(..)
For Internet, video, music, casual game, the E and G variants will more then suffice and will come with lower
thermal resistance. Battery life will be longer and the price lower.
D will perform all these task with 2Gb 32Gb (an a 64-bit Windows) a bit better for just an couple of buck more.
Posted pricing seems a bit weird on most Chinese sites, e.g. selling E and G's at the same price as a D.
They should be going for around a 115$ ~ 125$. D's should go for around a 135$ ~ 160$ or less.
Just be sure to look at that when making your choice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

So it is possible to install Android and Linux on this.
It should be running and 32-bit version of windows 8.1 in WIM configuration right now.
This seem an good place to start Link

Hey Buddy, just found your awesome post here.
I have the hardware drivers for those in need of them. <here>(82.1Mb)
There from the A1. Don't know if they are the same for the other models.
<i>Still waiting for the tablet, so I haven't tested any of these yet.

Sweet! Those will come in handy. Thanks, ebsbow!

i've been using this tablet for about a month now, it's a really good tablet for its price range, capable of running all kinds of daily apps that i need, a couple of nice games, and the battery life is amazing..

Guy's I am looking to get an 64Gb sd card for this. But it seems not all versions or types do work. It
does support SDXC/SDHC(obviously) 64Gb class 10.
With all those differences on sale it's troublesome to go out and buy one just randomly. Even if they are class brands.
If you could share your experiences on this that would be great. Model, type, brand etc..

Here you can read a review
http://www.retroandroid.com/review-tablet-windows-8-1-voyo-a1-mini/
Very good tablet.

Here you can see some videos:

The bang for the buck is great.
I've owned one of these for over a month now and I love it. I get a whole lot more use out of this than my ASUS TF300T.
I can't say enough good things about it, really. I've put it through it's paces and it hasn't let me down yet. I took the time to turn off eye candy where-ever possibly and applied all the usual gamer tweaks one should do to Windows and extended my battery life out a bit.
I've run Fallout 3 and Skyrim on it. Sure, it takes some concessions on video quality and some mods to reduce memory overhead, but the balance is acceptable and quite enjoyable to play. Not to mention the scads of GoG games that run well on here. Neverwinter Nights and Baldur's Gate play flawlessly.
I see people wanting to run Photoshop on it. I say, why not? While the latest and greatest Photoshop CS may be a bloated whore, Photoshop CS3 runs brilliantly here and gives access to most of the tools in the CS arsenal.
I've been able to run Linux Mint in a VM through VMPlayer, and thanks so some tips from the ASUS T100 guys have been able to at least boot Ubuntu to a terminal in native mode. So a native Linux install is certainly possible, but beyond my expertise at the moment. There is a version of this tablet that comes with Android preinstalled, but Bluestacks runs on it fine, and I've been able to launch some games using ARCHON-APK in Chrome, so I kind of have the best of both worlds there.
Hardware compatibility thusfar has been 100%. I have yet to encounter a peice of hardware that causes grief. My XBOX 360 wireless contoller and dongle work perfect, and the bluetooth is even compatible with Wiimotes, so gaming is easy. Even something as obscure as a Serial Port replicator that I have laying around for running Drivewire with my CoCo II was detected and worked without a hitch.
Like I said I've hit this thing with everything I have got and it hasn't let me down yet. I just hope someone gets a fully functional native Linux install working on it so I can use it as a portable development studio, too.

Any problems with charging?
[email protected] said:
i've been using this tablet for about a month now, it's a really good tablet for its price range, capable of running all kinds of daily apps that i need, a couple of nice games, and the battery life is amazing..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Ryan,
Do you have any problems using this device when charging? I have one, but when it is plugged in to the mains (NOT trickle charge through USB) the screen registers multiple touches for each single touch, making it unusable.
Thanks,
Jason.

@jcsammut -
I have the same issue, it appears to be bleed off from the charging circuit affecting the capacitance of the touch screen. It only seems to happen for me when the battery is fully charged. It may be the screen protector acting as a capacitor as well, not certain though. I usually will just unplug it and let it drain back down to 25% or so and plug it back in. It doesn't act that way when you charge via USB. I use a Bluetooth mouse 90% of the time so the touchscreen going berserk on a full charge isn't a game-breaker for me, personally.

themagi said:
@jcsammut -
I have the same issue, it appears to be bleed off from the charging circuit affecting the capacitance of the touch screen. It only seems to happen for me when the battery is fully charged. It may be the screen protector acting as a capacitor as well, not certain though. I usually will just unplug it and let it drain back down to 25% or so and plug it back in. It doesn't act that way when you charge via USB. I use a Bluetooth mouse 90% of the time so the touchscreen going berserk on a full charge isn't a game-breaker for me, personally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Strange, it happens for me regardless of charge amount, but it is sometimes intermittent at any charge level - e.g. one second it does it and the next it doesn't.
I agree that it does not do it via USB but the trickle charge is not enough to sustain a charge under normal usage and the battery depletes.
I tend to use a mouse too, but is a bit of a pain when just wanting to use the touch screen. Oh well now I know it affects multiple devices I may stick with it.
Out of interest could it be a shielding issue of the adapter itself? Would a different model help perhaps.
Thanks.

jcsammut said:
Out of interest could it be a shielding issue of the adapter itself? Would a different model help perhaps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly couldn't hurt to try especially if you have a compatible adapter that has a ground plug. I've never noticed if the plug on the stock adapter is polarized. It might make a difference if the polarity is switched.

I have the same thing around 80% when the battery is charging. Only horizontally.
I seem to remember reading something about an little adapter thingy to add to the charger tip.

Buggster said:
I have the same thing around 80% when the battery is charging. Only horizontally.
I seem to remember reading something about an little adapter thingy to add to the charger tip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting, I just tried portrait but it still happens.
Any idea what the 'little adapter thingy' is?
I am trying to find an alternative power supply, but everyone seems to offer a 9v 2a adapter with a 2.5mm barrel, when this take a 2mm barrel.
Cheers!

No buddy, can't recall. I forgot reading about something regarding this kind of problem before I got the tablet.
Some adapter. 2mm in, something magical in between, 2mm out
I'll may look into it later today. Probably have an link to it somewhere..
edit;
you can also try an usb to 2mm cable on an prober usb adapter

Buggster said:
No buddy, can't recall. I forgot reading about something regarding this kind of problem before I got the tablet.
Some adapter. 2mm in, something magical in between, 2mm out
I'll may look into it later today. Probably have an link to it somewhere..
edit;
you can also try an usb to 2mm cable on an prober usb adapter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cheers mate, I will try searching for that, as searching google for "2mm in, something magical in between, 2mm out" returned some very 'intersting' results .......magic gold rope anyone?.

Did some research and this touchscreen issue is definitely related to the ungrounded charger supplied by the manufacturer.
Apparently it's a common problem with newer touchscreens because of the push for thinness. It produces EMI interference that causes a "ripple" effect to cross the screen outward from the charging plug. This is why the extra touches always seem to be in-line with your finger. A way to avoid it "temporarily" is to touch the grounded edge of the USB port or other exposed metal surface while using the touchscreen. It puts you on the same ground plane as the device and "mutes" the "ripple" effect.
The cleaner the power from the Mains the less you'll notice this effect. So a quality surge filter will probably help at the plug end.
You could also try one of these.. Which should filter the noise out and "mute" the "ripple."
I think I have one of those barrel filters at my house. I'll try to find it and see if it works for me. Touching the USB port works for sure as I've tried it myself.

Magic gold rope, my basement visitor may appreciate that. Eew. Just kidding guy's!
What I have reckoned so far is that using 1.5a vs 2.0a charge would be beneficial to
lessen the interference when loading. So at this point I suspect using 'a' capacitor,
as already suggested, as the magic part. The extra benefit would be an longer cable!
It would slowdown the loading cycle, but don't see a problem there.
Anyone volunteering to make an schematic?
edit; good find thmagi. didn't see your post there.

Qi Charging w/ Receiver - PSA

So, I don't know whether anyone ever cares about this, but perhaps there's some kindred soul somewhere who would. As you may have seen around XDA, I have been trying to get Qi wireless charging working properly on this phone, with varying success. Here are my results, based on two major options categories:
1. Cheap Receiver (Direct from China, aliexpress etc.)
2. Higher-end receiver (Amazon - though still sort of direct, lol: Nillkin is the brand)
On software configurations:
1. Stock
I don't have this loaded anymore. Seeing as every other stock device I've tested supports this however, I would be relatively confident saying you can take route 1.
Custom:
2. Android <= 7.1
This one is easy. While there are other hardware and software issues to potentially be concerned about, type 1. receivers never gave me trouble. They would blink, off, and the phone would lose the charging message while the light remained, ultimately charging, so yea, cheapo seems to work here.
3. Android < 7.1
Due to some sort of kernel/software changes, my guess being a minimum acceptable current is for charging before firing off an End charge, option 1 categorically does not work here. Gotta roll option 2. However, it seems to work without issue - constant light, constant charge message, and across a variety of charging pads.
So yea. There you have it. I've tested probably 5 cheap tags at this point, with the most expensive being the Nillkin for $14.99 Canadian Pesos. The Nillkin one is thicker, but it presents what is likely to be some of the best compatibility you will see. If you're running stock firmware, it seems to make little difference, though I will say the quality one seems to push 1A much more consistently than the non-quality (which usually average between 280mA-500mA).
As for Qi pads: Don't sweat it. Get the 2 colour-ringed ones w/o the LED on eBay for like $2.30 CAD. They'll work just fine. Basically, just aim for one that puts out >= 1A current (on its specs, at least).
Information for the curious, drudgery for the disinterested, and hopefully something helpful to anyone pursuing the same.
EDIT: I may have jumped the gun. The Nillkin lasts much longer for connection, but it still seems to disconnect
EDIT #2: Seems it was a placement issue. Could be the pad, I'll have to see if it disconnects on the cheaper one
EDIT #3: Mostly holds on lower-current. Seems like it's more a delivery issue, keeps constant on the high-current one.