Anyone thought about raising the ouya with a fanned base mount of some kind, and creating some vents in the top to make the case a little wind tunnel. I mean it's great the processor has a heat sink and fan, but all that heat still needs an escape. anyone already working on something like this, or have thoughts on it?
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
bwild said:
Anyone thought about raising the ouya with a fanned base mount of some kind, and creating some vents in the top to make the case a little wind tunnel. I mean it's great the processor has a heat sink and fan, but all that heat still needs an escape. anyone already working on something like this, or have thoughts on it?
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey bwild... I just received my Ouya a few days ago and this was one of the many initial issues which i've noticed, especially when you launch a game and leave it sitting at the title screen for about 15 minutes. It heats up pretty well and if the ambient temp is 25c or higher then the little thing struggles to cool itself.
After opening mine up, i can see several points which cause me concern heat wise, and obviously the long term issues are potentially reducing the lifespan of the device as a whole.
1. Due to the size of the device internally, and the amount of air that the small fan can shift per minute and the lack of escape points for heat, the device warms up pretty quick as essentially the small cooler is just reusing warm air internally to try and cool the heatsink. There is no heat shielding on the inside of the case to isolate the board from the surrounding case so the entire device heats up but the only effective cooling part is the small heatsink. Its a REALLY bad design.
2. The mobo inside is mounted on its side, this forces the fan and heatsink to fire out warm air towards the vents at the top and the bottom of the case, well at least im sure they are 'Vents' . Im quite sure that this kind of heat build up and pressure makes it almost impossible to draw any kind of reasonably cooler air from the outside, inside. Any air being drawn in is already warm before it even hits the cooler. My Ouya does get noticeably warmer underneath the device but i also believe that this is due to the 4 small metal weights which sit right at the bottom of the case heating up as warm air is expelled downward from the heatsink... I'm thinking of removing these as they are acting as a small heater with cool air trying to enter the underside of the case. But i can test and let you know if theres any difference.
3. The unique shape of the Ouya doesnt help either i believe... Warm air being expelled downwards towards the bottom of the case, will naturally try and rise and move up the curved side of the case internally and then get drawn in by the cooler again, im no expert when it comes to these types of things but im pretty sure thats whats happening.
4. I've replaced the standard 40mm fan with an Akasa 40mm fan with slightly higher airflow rating (and a little more noise), Not sure if this again helps much due to the design but it should help to at least cool the device a little quicker once your return to the Ouya dashboard.
5. Something else that i noticed was that the heatsink is actually spread across what looks like the GPU and (What looks like) Memory Modules, i cant confirm this as it was a side on look and havent removed the heatsink (Yet). Again i noticed that the GPU sits on one half of the heatsink (the side which is closed to the bottom of the case actually) so im wandering if this heatsink is doing anything at all I'll see about removing this at some point and probably putting a highly polished copper shim on it with some better heat compound, silver or ceramic and see if this helps.
6. The underside of the motherboard, has no cooling or anything on there despite a memory module being present on the back but i dont think that this will cause any issues.
So will all of that in mind... i've set of to find a suitable cooler of some kind that wont require ear plugs or make the device levitate 2 inches from the surface its supposed to be sitting on.... Space is a real killer inside this so i think we are going to be limited to what can can do however i'll need to see if theres any way that i can change the airflow in the device to allow for cool air being drawn from underneath and the warm air being expelled from the top. Sounds simple but i dont think its going to be anything easy... Just by looking at the Ouya, i had the crazy idea of trying to mount a 80mm fan (Low Profile if such a thing exists) which has a low rpm which sits between the top of the case and the top lid where the power button is. There may be much pressure between the fan and top lid though so there would need to be some mods and see if i can get enough power.....
All of this sounds extreme for what it is but i hate warm devices
I came across this : http://www.ninjalane.com/reviews/motherboards/rampage3extreme/page4.aspx : which shows a small chipset cooler. This would allow you to mount is side ways with the fan obviously pointing towards the top of the case and flip the fan over so its draws air from underneath and out through the top. Its either something like that, or we start a watercooling ouya project LOL :highfive:
Well thats my 2c
I think the outside only gets warm because it metal if it were plastic no one would know.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Ok.... Quick test there after work.
Removed the lid, played Shadowgun for about 30 minutes. Fan kicked in a couple of times, but when the fan kicked in for a 3rd time, I exited back to the dashboard and the fan stopped immediately.
Console was slightly cold to touch and the heatsink was roughly a little warmer to the touch so I'd say between 40 and 45c at the most. :thumbup:
Compared to last nights epic slaughter session on Shadow gun, the fan remained on for approximately 10 minutes with no system usage, just sitting at the dashboard as it tried to desperately cool itself.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
It's running a mobile cpu... won't it just throttle itself if it actually gets up to a dangerous temperature??
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
I agree mate yes... however i'm not sure if it does actually throttle itself? On an enclosed mobile i can see why thats required, on an open, air cooled device (albeit poorly) there wouldnt really be a requirement for throttling, unless they know it couldnt cool itself properly there any way we know for sure?
That aside though, the device will still take some time to cool down even when throttled as it will still generate heat
Personally if i am playing a game at 1080p, i'd rather not have to suffer from reduced quality when the device throttles due to poor design!
I did notice as well initially when i had a really good session on Shadowgun, that the frame rate on a 1080 monitor was dropping below 30fps and the textures didnt quite look as crisp, so maybe it does throttle. If thats the case, i'll play it with the lid off until i can stop it from overheating and lowering the core frequencies :good: I'll make this a little project and see how cold i can get it to run.
If i make any changes that i think are working, i'll post a few pics :highfive:
Im going to picking up a mini-itx case so i can not only rectify the cooling issue when running my roms , but also to permanantly install a usb hub and hard drive internally. I am growing accustomed to using this for media too, so a hard drive is a must. I will post some pictures and video as I move along with it.
Ramzes13 said:
Im going to picking up a mini-itx case so i can not only rectify the cooling issue when running my roms , but also to permanantly install a usb hub and hard drive internally. I am growing accustomed to using this for media too, so a hard drive is a must. I will post some pictures and video as I move along with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
played through shadow gun and the left over and the system stayed cool to the touch the fan did come on a few times
I stripped mine down again tonight and had a closer look at the PCB. Looks like the heatsink, which is soldered on, isnt flush. It rises slightly at the end where the CPU/GPU is so that's maybe why mines is a little warm. I can apply a little pressure to the high end and it does drop 1 maybe 2mm. So maybe my heatsink isn't as effective as it should be.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Here is the simple rigging I came up with.
A 60mm case fan with some allen bolts for legs. Plugged into the ouya usb (I still need to split it so I don't loose a slot.)
The fan blows up through the bottom vents, I do intend to cut a couple extra slits in the top too.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
Thingiverse has the plans for the ouya and others have likely moded it for better air flow if you have a 3D printer.
Sent from my DROID4 using xda app-developers app
The Old One said:
Thingiverse has the plans for the ouya and others have likely moded it for better air flow if you have a 3D printer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I'd ultimately want to do I have a design in my head for incorporating the fan inside the bottom of the case raising the board by the equivalent height and adding in just a spacer with additional venting, between the case and top cover.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
bwild said:
Here is the simple rigging I came up with.
A 60mm case fan with some allen bolts for legs. Plugged into the ouya usb (I still need to split it so I don't loose a slot.)
The fan blows up through the bottom vents, I do intend to cut a couple extra slits in the top too.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's awesome mate!! :good: Do you get a noticeable difference with that fan?
it is noticeably cooler to the touch. I'll try to measure it somehow and update when I get a chance.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
So I picked up a dead sega dream cast at the flea market, got it home, gutted it, cleaned, and got most of it done. I was able to convert the sega push button power switch to a momentary and soldered the leads to the ouya main board. I hot glued the connection afterwords so it will stay (the power pins are tiny). I added two USB ports to the front and rear using a USB hub. I also mounted an hdmi coupler and m type power connector on the rear. I made a jumper cable to hook up power internally. I'm also looking into wiring up the stock dream cast cooling fan to use as side exhaust. I will update when i get the cooling sorted out. The point of doing this was to increase airflow in the case and make a more compact package for all of devices.
Ramzes13 said:
So I picked up a dead sega dream cast at the flea market, got it home, gutted it, cleaned, and got most of it done. I was able to convert the sega push button power switch to a momentary and soldered the leads to the ouya main board. I hot glued the connection afterwords so it will stay (the power pins are tiny). I added two USB ports to the front and rear using a USB hub. I also mounted an hdmi coupler and m type power connector on the rear. I made a jumper cable to hook up power internally. I'm also looking into wiring up the stock dream cast cooling fan to use as side exhaust. I will update when i get the cooling sorted out. The point of doing this was to increase airflow in the case and make a more compact package for all of devices.
View attachment 2098033View attachment 2098034View attachment 2098035View attachment 2098036View attachment 2098039
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Pretty cool, I considered doing this as well with a dreamcast, but won't have a chance till I buy another OUYA specifically to mod. Looking at it, I have 2 concerns. Your USB hub is almost wasted, isn't it? I mean the majority of USB ports are inside the case, or am I missing something? What about heat? With the OUYA in the middle, close to the top, wont it cause more heat? or do you think the second fan will fix that?
Have you thought about anything to do with the lid/cd area?
JLCollier2005 said:
Pretty cool, I considered doing this as well with a dreamcast, but won't have a chance till I buy another OUYA specifically to mod. Looking at it, I have 2 concerns. Your USB hub is almost wasted, isn't it? I mean the majority of USB ports are inside the case, or am I missing something? What about heat? With the OUYA in the middle, close to the top, wont it cause more heat? or do you think the second fan will fix that?
Have you thought about anything to do with the lid/cd area?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wanted the majority of the USB ports internal for use with the front USB ports and to add internal storage. You are correct about the pcb location and I'm going to make small vents above the fan inside the cd area for air intake. As it sits now heat isn't in issue yet. I mounted the pcb near the stock fan location so once I have that working it can pull air out more efficiently. Using a dream cast was great, I wish I did this in my spare Nintendo 64, but I didn't have the security tool yet (ordered last night). The n64 cartridge slot makes an amazing air intake, I will more than likely do it when I pick up another ouya ?.
So I got around to wiring up the stock dream cast fan to maximize air flow and moved the led from the pcb to the lid of the console so now the light can be seen.
The first picture is with the cd tray open to show the vents I had to create since the CPU fan sits below. In both pics you can see the light now works. I ordered right angle USB adapters last night and will update when they are installed.
...and so nothing falls into the system or the fan ...
Related
I recently bought an official o2 mains charger for my exec. It works exactly as expected, except for one thing!
It's giving me an electric shock! A very mild one, but it's there. The metal part on the top of the exec is getting electrified when charging with the mains charger.
Does anyone else with the mains charger experience this? I only noticed it when I rubbed my finger across it, it felt more "textured" than usual.
DaWolfey said:
I recently bought an official o2 mains charger for my exec. It works exactly as expected, except for one thing!
It's giving me an electric shock! A very mild one, but it's there. The metal part on the top of the exec is getting electrified when charging with the mains charger.
Does anyone else with the mains charger experience this? I only noticed it when I rubbed my finger across it, it felt more "textured" than usual.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. I thought that was normal?
belfast-biker said:
Yes. I thought that was normal?
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Click to collapse
It doesn't seem very normal to me... certainly not what you'd expect at least.
YES. I noticed it the first time i charged it up. I showed it to other people but they couldnt feel it. Now I know I am not alone. I wouldnt have said it was normal, but i have got used to it.
Euan
My m5000 does this too.
The easiest way to feel it is to softly stroke the metal pad on the lid with the case closed. It feels kinda nice, but is definately current.
My JasJar, IIs and my old Xda II also did this. But only those. Perhaps it's not earthed well?
Qtek 9000 has this too
You'll be surprised how many devices have this, actually. However, it shouldn't be of any concern - it's OK'd by law in most countries. Compare it, if you will, to one of those cheap halogen light desklamps ( http://www.lightwindow.com/desklamp/500/halogen/129bl.jpg ). The 12V goes straight through the telescoping metal tubing itself, and if you rub your fingers along one side while holding the other, you'll get the same sensation. That's why they often have a little warning label with them about not hanging any necklaces over them, or it will shortcircuit ( easily tested.. it just sparks a little, but I wouldn't recommend doing it ). The power rating for these lamps is *much* higher than for any pocket device. So although it's not particularly proper (non-conductive tubing with some retractable wires would be better - but oh-so-much more expensive to manufacture), it's part of the design, and nothing to worry about.
i had noticed it, but i didnt know what it was
DaWolfey said:
I recently bought an official o2 mains charger for my exec. It works exactly as expected, except for one thing!
It's giving me an electric shock! A very mild one, but it's there. The metal part on the top of the exec is getting electrified when charging with the mains charger.
Does anyone else with the mains charger experience this? I only noticed it when I rubbed my finger across it, it felt more "textured" than usual.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is true. There is a mild current along the top of the Jasjar.
wow... your first post... I'm honoured
No problem on my unit (Charmer). However, I've experienced this with other devices, an IBM Notebook (X series, bought 2003). It has a rubbery top (not metal), which give you a tickling feeling when you rub it with your sensitive skin (e.g. the skin under of your arm - wrist to elbow, the part where you do not get enough of sun light). I guess it is of a tolerance limit. I mean, if you try that on your VCD DVD player, I bet you will have the same problem too.
well that's certainly cleared that up.
Good to know it's not a faulty Exec.
I think its a "signature" of all HTC devices
I remember playing silly pranks on my xda2, where in i'd fake an incoming call when its plugged into the charger and hand it over to my friend (victim). The look on the face is worth a million! (i'm not sadistic as you're probably thinking right now, atleast not "as much"!)
the faceplate charge leak is really cool! I keep stroking it when i'm jobless. Its i guess a feature in many ways -
1. You dont have to hunt for the charging light indicator, just stroke the plate and you'd know if ur device is charging up
2. The phone call prank - priceless weapon!
3. An excellent window for passing time, stroking harmless current gives me a high! (oh yea, i'm kidding of course!)
All in all, i like the charge leak!
San
PS: Just got back from an extremely long and tiring business trip, hope my post has some relavence to the topic and makes sense in any remote manner
All of the devices which use a Switch mode power supply has it. It isn't a fault rather a design. This reason is that Switch Mode Powersupplies do not have a transformer which isolate the main 110/220 from the output.
You can also experience it if you have a computer with a metal casing (those white boxed computers)
There is however a method to minimize that shock effect. though it might not be possible with three pin adapters. Here we have two pinned adapters so just plugging it in the opposite direction make the shock go away.
ady said:
All of the devices which use a Switch mode power supply has it. It isn't a fault rather a design. This reason is that Switch Mode Powersupplies do not have a transformer which isolate the main 110/220 from the output.
You can also experience it if you have a computer with a metal casing (those white boxed computers)
There is however a method to minimize that shock effect. though it might not be possible with three pin adapters. Here we have two pinned adapters so just plugging it in the opposite direction make the shock go away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol.. I thought since you are writing in bold, it should be something.. good. Anyway, the only thing that I've notice that is right on your post is that, SMPower adapter does not have a transformer.
The isolation of the transformer doesn't stop the device from giving you a shock.
What do you mean by 'white boxed computers'? You mean those normal desktop, huh? I'm not sure about what's going on at your side, but we use 3 pin plugs here, and the 3rd pin is a ground line, which is the effective way of getting rid of electric shocks (e.g. it absorb the 'wild' current to ground, instead to you)
And the most funny thing is your last comment. You can make the shock away by flipping your two pin plug? What is the logic to that? There is a diode-like device in the adapter that will convert the current/voltage of your AC to DC. It doesn't matter how you connect your adapter, it will end up the same somewhere in the adapter way before it touches your device.
Anyway, surprisingly, for someone who doesn't seems to know electricity, you know what Switch Mode Power Supplies
ady said:
... so just plugging it in the opposite direction make the shock go away...
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Click to collapse
Rigghhhhtt... That makes a lot of sense (not) :roll:
mdaexecfan said:
ady said:
... so just plugging it in the opposite direction make the shock go away...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rigghhhhtt... That makes a lot of sense (not) :roll:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Come on, maybe he meant the other other way, you know, with the pins pointing into the room rather than into the socket?
I bet that would stop the current leak!
I have no idea about anything electrical... but don't be too hard on ady. He was the one who decrypted bootloader 1.0 for the universal which is very useful to some of us... so he's acutally very smart! At least, he is at programming/hacking.
Just wondering if anyone's come up with a good way to mount the Defy on a motorcycle yet? Can't find a dedicated mount for the Defy yet so am looking for other options...Waiting for delivery of a plastic holster which, if I could remove the belt-clip, I could probably attatch to a universal stem mount. Not sure about how much clearance there would be between the holster and the phone for any securing nuts/fasteners so just interested if anyone has rigged up something similar? Can't wait to get my hands on this phone as the IP67 spec makes it perfect for use as a motorcycle sat-nav!
(Sorry- unable to include pictures/links to the proposed holster and stem mount as I'm a n00b!)
Hello mate,
I bought a couple of the cheap mounts from China, they use the standard 4 holes at the back, which makes it perfect for sticking cable ties though to hold it on the handle bars (see image).
I put it on the other day and took it for a test ride about 15 miles. It held in, but doesn't stop me feeling a bit scared that the vibrations will make it fall out.
I bought the origional motorola mount, put a decent bolt in the stem hole and used thw standard screw on mount. Done about 150km within like that, listening to music and google turn by turn through my bluetooth headphones.
2 issues though, wish it had a lanyard strap for a safety latch just in case it comes free the holder. 2nd issue is tha capacitive screen with racing leather gloves...
Cheers. That looks promising but I'm hoping to mount it to my R1 which has clipons. I think a stem mounts the only safe option (hate to pay the £70 odd Motohaus are asking for it tho!)...See what you mean about the posibility of it coming out of the upper clip (the holster I've ordered clips in on all four corners so may be safer.) Maybe you could rig up something that would lock the upper clip down- a loop of strong fishing line or something similar...bit of a bodge but wouldn't want to test the phones ruugedness by slinging it down the road at speed!!
senergy said:
I bought the origional motorola mount, put a decent bolt in the stem hole and used thw standard screw on mount. Done about 150km within like that, listening to music and google turn by turn through my bluetooth headphones.
2 issues though, wish it had a lanyard strap for a safety latch just in case it comes free the holder. 2nd issue is tha capacitive screen with racing leather gloves...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cheers. How did you secure the Motorola mount to the stem hole? Not sure how you'd be able to recess a captive nut or something similar within the stem itself? Ta.
I think the best idea maybe to try and fabricate your own, maybe get a small sheet of metal and fold the ends over so that the phone will slide in from the side only. Could then screw a ram mount bit on the back and attach to the bike that way. I'll probably try this when I can be bothered
The reason I got the defy though is because of it's ruggedness and because I go Dirt biking a lot and use the phone for Ordnance Survey mapping. I'm forever falling in rivers or big muddy bogs so I need to feel confident that it'll hold the phone in!
I used one of these
then got arount 5-8 rubber grommets like this
and pushed it through the stem hole. Its real tight!. Left a bit of of bolt out the top so the pivot locking system of the oem holder attaches to the bolt.
It looks pretty decent, nothing that ruins the looks of my 600rr.
I'll take some pics when Im in the garage next and post it up so you can see.
here it is, I'm going to wire it up to the battery when I find the right cables, needs to be removable since the bike does a lot of track days in race fairings.
Nice one- good job!
Might have to do something slightly different as I've got a steering damper mounted. Think I'll need to offset the carrier plate forward a bit...found site: telferizer.com that has stem mounts that suit various Ram mount parts so think I'll get something sorted. Thanks for the help!
Haha thats class, some proper american chopper business there- would have looked better if you had fab'd a custom tank and integrated the mount in the tank
I bought a Universal RamMount for ~50€ a few days ago, I'll post some photos as soon as I have it
Update...
...Managed to pick up one of these http://telferizer.com/ off ebay and these Ram Mount parts to secure the phone http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000WJ90K0/ref=oss_product http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002KO5XVU/ref=oss_product , http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001QD8Q5Q/ref=oss_product , http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000WJ90K0/ref=oss_product
Particularily like the phone holder as, having watched a UTube clip, I can be confident that the phone won't pop out over bumps in the road (got the suspension set up stiff for fast road/track use!) Hope this helps.
Can you not slip a couple of rubber bands over the ends of the bracket to keep the phone in place?
Simple solutions to complex problems
I'm sure there's loads of options for mounting the phone tho some better than others. My main concern is the phone coming out of whatever mounting plate it's held into- some of the car dock plates don't look too secure to me. Reckon rubber bands would help hold a clip shut but wouldn't do much for screen visibility! The RamMount plate http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045072079076045085078052085/Default.aspx........comes with various length holding arms and can be set up to hold the phone as tightly as you like.
Different strokes for diferent folks I guess!
I bought the RamMount Fingergrip, have a look.
on picture #4 you can see an additional screw at the bottom of the 'fingergrip', that's because the defy is not big enough. But it's sitting very tight even with only the 'fingers' left and right.
I have a question: with RamMount Fingergrip, can you charge the phone or the micro USB port is hidden behind the finger?
Thanks in advance.
Quza said:
I bought the RamMount Fingergrip, have a look.
on picture #4 you can see an additional screw at the bottom of the 'fingergrip', that's because the defy is not big enough. But it's sitting very tight even with only the 'fingers' left and right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the same mount that I bought. I used the short "fingers" on all four sides (1 one each long side instead of 2) - instead of the large "endplates" suggested for the top and bottom of the mount plate. This holds the phone very well and it is still possible to access all of the buttons and sockets on the side of the phone...perfect!!
Can someone please post some pictures of the Defy installed in the RamMount Fingergrip? Thanks
lenoyy said:
Can someone please post some pictures of the Defy installed in the RamMount Fingergrip? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll be at my lockup tommorrow so will take a couple of snaps and post them up tommorrow evening.
Here's a couple of pics of the Rammount Fingergrip. Road tested it today and it seems very solid and gives full access to all buttons and sockets if you use the four small fingers...
Something odd I noticed a week or so ago. When my tab is charging, if I run my finger lightly along any part of the metal case, there's a REALLY faint "vibration" or "tingle", reminiscent of the feeling you get when you put one of those 9V square batteries on your tongue.
If I disconnect the charger then it stops, so I figured there must be some kind of short in the tablet somewhere.
But I finally found my multimeter this morning and tested it. There is absolutely no current in the casing at all. 0.000 volts. 0.0000 amps. Nada. Zip.
So what the hell IS it? I don't think it's the internal vibrator as I can't hear anything. Is anyone else getting this? It's strongest around the middle of the device, around where the Acer logo is on the back, but can only be felt on the metal parts, not the glass...
It might be an electro magnetic induction current, and the plastic is insulating the metal from earth - you are then providing the earth to make the circuit.
Where did you measure from and to with the multimeter? Try case to earth on another power socket, or case to earth with your tongue (wet, very conductive) (wet fingers if you's scared.. LOL).
I tried all the ways I can think of, including those, but there's nothing I can pick up with my meter. Alas, my scope is broke.
My wife can't feel it at all, but my kids can so I'm positive I'm not imagining it. It's not there when unplugged from the charger, there when plugged in.
BTW, generally, water is a very poor conductor of electricity, especially through the tongue as saliva has a pH of 7.5, which will insulate rather than conduct. You need water with a pH of <5 or >9 for decent conductivity.
Don't worry, I can feel the same vibration with my HTC Desire (which has a metal case, too), funny enough not with my A500, though. Not everyone can feel it, which either means not every device has that effect or not everybody can feel it.
True, but it's still better than dry skin, especially finger print tipped fingers.
Fluffbutt said:
True, but it's still better than dry skin, especially finger print tipped fingers.
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Click to collapse
Nope. With wet fingers (saliva or tap water) I can't feel the vibration at all, with dry I can. This tells me it MUST be electrical, but I'm damned if I can get it to register on my meter.
BTW, though I've not done much in the last 20 years, I originally trained as a microelectronics engineer, so I do know what I'm doing. I've never seen this in a device that DIDN'T register some kind of current flowing through it...
I've always been pretty sensitive to tiny electrical currents, so it probably IS some kind of short that my fingers are picking up, but can't get through the anodised coating on the metal back for my meter to read it. I AM getting a tiny reading of 0.003722 volts on the bare metal in the dock port, but my fingers sure shouldn't be able to pick THAT up!
Still, with no readable value on a meter, there's no way I'll be able to return it as the store just won't believe me, so I guess I'll live with it and just check it periodically.
I have exact the same thing, when the A500 is charging and I'm touching the case, it is vibrating a little.
I got my A500 since friday. I registered same vibration during the first charging. I don´t know what to do with it....
E.
Yeah I noticed this too. The list of quirks with this tablet just seems to grow by the day
i have the same issue before, i changed the power adapter from Acer and the problem solve. Their report log show 'electrical leaking'
I truly don't doubt what you say.
I honestly would've though that wet skin would be better than dry or skin-oil skin. Weird.
See if you can get a infinite resistance reading between the metal shell part and the dock port (like you should). I also suggest a separate test of the charger unit for leakages.
Maybe also test the charger port and the dock port for max resistance, charger port and skin as well.
OK, it's probably not dangerous (well, maybe not now..), but it IS bloody interesting!!
FloatingFatMan said:
Nope. With wet fingers (saliva or tap water) I can't feel the vibration at all, with dry I can. This tells me it MUST be electrical, but I'm damned if I can get it to register on my meter.
BTW, though I've not done much in the last 20 years, I originally trained as a microelectronics engineer, so I do know what I'm doing. I've never seen this in a device that DIDN'T register some kind of current flowing through it...
I've always been pretty sensitive to tiny electrical currents, so it probably IS some kind of short that my fingers are picking up, but can't get through the anodised coating on the metal back for my meter to read it. I AM getting a tiny reading of 0.003722 volts on the bare metal in the dock port, but my fingers sure shouldn't be able to pick THAT up!
Still, with no readable value on a meter, there's no way I'll be able to return it as the store just won't believe me, so I guess I'll live with it and just check it periodically.
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Fluffbutt said:
OK, it's probably not dangerous (well, maybe not now..), but it IS bloody interesting!!
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I really doubt it's dangerous, but it does indeed sound like there's leakage current on OPs tab. I've had similar experiences with e.g. some PC cases and there the problem was easily solved by making sure the case is well-grounded. Also had a washing machine that did the same, but as there's water involved I had to check it out properly and it was indeed a defect unit and had to be thrown out.
I get the same, both on the case, and when i run my finger over the glass, makes it tingle slightly, unplug the charger and wherever i touch its gone. perhaps from the screen getting the full V/amps from the charger?
I'm glad not to be the only one experiencing this so called "electrical leaking".
But it seems I am the only one who actually enjoys this feeling on my fingertip. Don't you?
pintness said:
I'm glad not to be the only one experiencing this so called "electrical leaking".
But it seems I am the only one who actually enjoys this feeling on my fingertip. Don't you?
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!!!!!!!
If you try another part of your anatomy on the screen, DON'T post the video!!
LOL!!
;->
I get the same vibration but on the bottom edge of my a500 .....strange.....
Sent from my XT720 using XDA App
lol
My advice would be to *not* lick / taste your a500 while it is charging
me too
The cases is hot with respecs to earth. The adapter needs replaced.
Mine dont do that.
Sent from my A500 using XDA Premium App
I noticed this too when I first got my A500. I don't notice it anymore because I always have it in the Folio Case.
sadly i don't have one of these elite-atrix which can stand massive overclocking without at some point reboot because of too much heat.
so i decided to do something against overheating.
what i did was tearing apart the atrix and removing the aluminium part covering the tegra II chip (and no this piece doesnt have any contact to the chip so it doesnt serve as heatspreader).
now i took some spare aftermarket ram cooler and grinded it down to the exact size of the chip.
next step was quite easy: just cut out some part of the inner plastic frame to have some space for the new built "cooler".
last but not least i just put a small drop of thermal paste onto that chip and pressed the new cooler on top. (sidenote: you shouldnt have to glue it. it will keep sticking there because of adhesion)
no i'm going to try wheather this has any effect at all gonna flash some 1.5/1.6 kernel and see if my atrix can handle the speed now
pictures and results follow soon (partly done)
btw any good app to log temps?
Here you go with some pictures (more to come):
Really cool. You are a brave one....
I might have to try it.
Thanks for the info.
Even running at stock speeds the heat management on this phone is horrendous. I actually think the overheating caused my digitizer problems.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Interesting, I hope you took some pictures. (and are willing to share!)
Hahaha, that's epic. Finally a real hardware mod for the atrix, please upload a picture!
Sent from my Atrix
I cant wait to see the pictures! XD
sorry mates, had no pc around and posting the first 10 times via tablet/smartphone is a pain in the ***
So the results are not that overwhelming but i'll surely try to figure out how to optimize all of this.
Results so far at stresstest
Clockspeed ..................................... Before ....................................... After
1000mhz max....................................working........................................ working
1300mhz max .........................reboot after some minutes..................... working
1450mhz max..........................reboot & bootloop soon.....................reboot after some minutes ... sometimes bootloop
as you can see there already is some slight increase of stability with overclocking, but i think that there can be done even more. just got to find a way how to squeeze even more heatsink into that little case without having to cut out any more will try with aluminium tape and also with some leftover copper heatsink soon
Copper should be better and maybe some holes in battery cover.
I hope that you're not going to try water cooling
no but got some copper heatpipes lying around XD
yes some holes in the cover would be better, but i really want to keep the outside stock.
well i also could also varnish some copper-plate into the backcover having contact to the heatsink on the cpu. so there would be a much bigger surface and of course allover masses. but i suppose if you hold this ting in your hand it would be too freaking hot. holding my finger down on that little heatsink while stresstesting can already be painfull. here i'm glad i got that plastic cover in between.
my plans are now to extend the heatsink over msdcard and simcard, since there is some good space left. maybe next days when i'll get home again
Actually copper plate into the backcover is great idea! Don't worry about heat because bigger surface and you still have plastic between heatsink and fingers
I did similar thing long time ago with zx spectrum
well then i need a really thin copper plate wich will not have that good effect on cooling, or i replace some area of the backcover with copper. then there would be heat issue (and aesthetic, too)
Try to find copper foil or easier aluminum foil. Just be careful to avoid electrical short circuit
Are you testing with or without the cover on?
What are you using to conduct the stress test?
I know you want to keep it stock, but an extended battery cover would give you lots of extra room and many have vents. Might even be able to squeeze a fan in there for active cooling!
atm i'm testing with back cover on. having stable oc only with back cover taken off doesnt make any sense since its unusable as daily driver.
i got some aluminium foil at home and some some fine copper plates.i'm sure i'll be able to work something out.
atm I'm using cm 7.2/miui hybrid with faux's 1450ghz 027b5 kernel. slightly undervolted.
mainly stresstesting with "StabilityTest". after about 10 mins of stresstesting i wouldn't get temps over 65°C still tweaking a bit, then i'll give some benchmarks a go and will see if i can get 1.6 ghz kernel running
still looking for some good tool for logging cpu temps or at least showing on screen/status baar. atm got to switch to setcpu and open cpu info tab to get some readouts.
I'm curious to see how 1.45Ghz kernel and tweaked stock rom will do in webtop-mode. hopefully this will be also run stable since webtop-charging also produces some extra heat. we'll see when i get my lapdock back from motorola ^^
extended back cover would be an option for space as long as i dont want to dock it to lapdock oder cardock, which i do multiple times a day. so no option for me.
i have also thought about adding a fan, but when i think about it, it's way to big, makes noise and drains even more juice. so this is a no-go.
if you would want to do extreme overclocking just for benchmarking this would be an option again. but then we would need a kernel with even higher clocks to get something groundbreaking...
so who starts with a LN2-cooled smartphone ?
Lol, fan is going to drain battery really fast. Only for extreme overclocking. Bigger heatsink, some holes or extended battery cover should be enough.
At the end he's going to overclock with liquid azote
Edit: system tuner pro could log data. Try it.
stresstesting @1450 faux kernel 027b5
while connected to a 1.6A charger and static 100% cpu-load i get temps of 86°C with the phone freezing.
got to play with some profiles here and maybe even more uv.
thanks for the tip with system tuner pro, looks promising. now i can get more accurate values and also log and see when the device crashes/reboots/freezes, etc
86°C is too much! Be careful, don't burn your phone
Zeljko1234 said:
86°C is too much! Be careful, don't burn your phone
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lol Could fry some egg and bacon on it!
be sure that i know its way too hot. i set up some profiles in setcpu and undervoltet a bit more.
i'm trying to peek at even while powercharging 65° but for that i will have to improve the heatsink. atm i still get about 72 with limit of 1200 when over 65
tablet is stock other than having the playstore.
Not sure what rom is best/least buggy, open to suggestions.
i'd like to overclock the tablet. i know what gets hot, and could slap a laptop heatsink to it.
Could someone show pics pointing out where the ram,cpu/gpu are?
far as i've gathered they are under the second box from the left, on the back.
current rough idea.
On whatever rom i'm using, tests prior and after thermals along the way of overclocks and mods.
Pop the metal boxes open or simply remove them from the back, where the hot bits are.
add a laptop fin heatsink maybe with heatpipes (depending on how many fin stacks i'll put on) to all the parts that get warm
heat the plastic case and put it on, form the plastic around the heatsink, then run some air slits so it can breath fresh cool air.
Or has anyone done anything like this?
Feels like their stock OS is too bloated, not even sure an overclock is needed with a good rom.
but, i want to do it anyways, so.
if you're assisting, i could use a detailed guide on how to get a bootloader, or w/e you guys do to get all the unlocks and goodies on your stuff.
tried reading a few and couldn't figure much out.
Jollyriffic said:
tablet is stock other than having the playstore.
Not sure what rom is best/least buggy, open to suggestions.
i'd like to overclock the tablet. i know what gets hot, and could slap a laptop heatsink to it.
Could someone show pics pointing out where the ram,cpu/gpu are?
far as i've gathered they are under the second box from the left, on the back.
current rough idea.
On whatever rom i'm using, tests prior and after thermals along the way of overclocks and mods.
Pop the metal boxes open or simply remove them from the back, where the hot bits are.
add a laptop fin heatsink maybe with heatpipes (depending on how many fin stacks i'll put on) to all the parts that get warm
heat the plastic case and put it on, form the plastic around the heatsink, then run some air slits so it can breath fresh cool air.
Or has anyone done anything like this?
Feels like their stock OS is too bloated, not even sure an overclock is needed with a good rom.
but, i want to do it anyways, so.
if you're assisting, i could use a detailed guide on how to get a bootloader, or w/e you guys do to get all the unlocks and goodies on your stuff.
tried reading a few and couldn't figure much out.
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What your device you're referring.
You can use cooling fan without PWM (pulse width modulation) wire.
AmznUser444 Dev said:
What your device you're referring.
You can use cooling fan without PWM (pulse width modulation) wire.
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fire hd 8 2019.
i've had it open, but the hot bits are encased in metal boxes. i'd have to look but i think the tops just pop off, or the sides solder off.
basically i want to get more performance, it's pretty slow, even fresh out the box.
Jollyriffic said:
fire hd 8 2019.
i've had it open, but the hot bits are encased in metal boxes. i'd have to look but i think the tops just pop off, or the sides solder off.
basically i want to get more performance, it's pretty slow, even fresh out the box.
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You won't get much more out of the chipset. It's not about simply mitigating heat and then cranking up the clock speed or voltage. There are so many architectural bottlenecks any gain in one area will be offset by bottlenecks or throttling in another. Good luck with your project.