Low tech fix for mic on Asus Transformer - Eee Pad Transformer General

Hi everybody! I'm new to posting here although I have been reading the posts for a while.
I have an Asus Transformer tf101 and have struggled with the mic volume just like everyone else. It's the biggest bug bear for me.
I've scoured the web for ideas until I decided the low tech approach may bear fruit. I disassembled the screen and took a look at the mic. What I found surprised me. It is not really the mics fault or even it's location. It's the stupid little hole that asus stuck in the side! The mic actually points forwards I think.
Anyway I took out my DeWalt and I put a hole in the front of the bezel. Voila! Mic works much better. Still not hugely sensitive but it is an amazing difference.
I used a larger bit to create a bell mouth and a smaller bit to go all the way through. This is probably not necessary and some might not like the appearance of it but I like it.
Before drilling a hole in your nice unscratched bezel, try the mic with and then without the bezel on by, say, ringing the skype test call service (as I did) so that you are satisfied that it is worth it.
Be careful to remove the micro sd card if you have one and also be very careful to peel off the bezel WITH the black plastic trim that sits between it and the screen. Needless to say, do not even think about drilling the hole with the bezel in place. You will trash the mic and generally make a mess!
I'd be interested to hear back from anyone else who has done this. A quick tutorial on removing the bezel can be found here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JG9gEYRALtU.
I hope this is helpful to some of my fellow tf101 owners. This is, I believe, the only way to fix the mic volume problem.
Cheers for reading my post!

Well I did say it was low tech....

Related

Scratches on metal part of screen near VueFlow button

Spotted someone asking asking about this on another thread and noticed I have the same problem.
http://amd.co.at/anti/pocket/pics/Ameo/AMEO_VGA/PICT1860.JPG
(antivirus - borrowed your picture, let me know if you object and I'll remove it)
So who else has the same problem, what's causing it and what can we do to stop it?
I noticed i get that to. the only way i have found to stop it happening is to magnetise my keyboard on the outside of the case. I think its caused by the connectors for the keyboard, there are 2 little black risen points that stick out and 1 of them makes those marks. (thats what i think - anyone else know any different?)
I was cheesed off by this as having paid out for the phone and for this to happen within a week i wasnt happy. Great phone tho! So all is kinda forgiven!
We need more protective cases out there! Only 2 types i can find so far.
yeh youre right. not only does the black plastic thing line up with scratches, but i noticed some of the scratched silver metal on the black plastic thing.
Yes, looks like that's it.
Now to find an acceptable solution. I'm more than a little pissed off to be honest at such a simple design flaw.
I'm currently misaligning the keyboard with the Ameo by a few mm so that the right hand connector is off the screen and nearer the VueFlow button but this is not an acceptable solution really
could try filing the RHS black thing down/off. the magnets seem to do a good job of ensuring the ameo only connects to keyboard when properly aligned (left to right) anyway.
the countour on keyboard also ensures ameo is straight relative to the keyboard.
The black points seem to keep the ameo upright when using the keyboard, im probably wrong tho.
Try turning the keyboard around in the case, i know its a pain when you want to use the keyboard and have to turn it around to use it, but i find that it works.
Eg have the buttons facing the bottom of the case so the smooth surface is facing the screen. Thats the only other way round it i can see. Im just keeping my eye out for a skin, as ive asked about in another post.
If other people out there are trying to work around it spending money on a different case may be the only way, but your right, big design floor. I noticed it, the same evening i purchased it and managed to flip my keyboard over or put it on the outside of the case. Adds to the bulk tho putting it on the outside, but to me, its the safest option.
I took the Dremmel to that horrid little black plastic lump.
I took it down about 60%, there is still an alignment piece there, but much lower.
I can report that there was no difference in using the keyboard, with or without the leather case. It clips into place just the same as before, and stands up fine as before.
I dont think there is now any danger of more damage from it on my device.
Of course, if you take a Dremmel to YOUR kb, its not my fault what the result is!

loose bezel

Ive had my nexus s since launch an ive noticed that the bezel around my screen is loose. When i apply pressure on the sides of my phone like squeezin it alittle it creaks an moves some. I first thought it was the battery cover but when i remove it i can see the bezel moving. Anyone else notice this on theres?
I returned a couple different NS for various reason and some had a squeaky bezel and some didn't. None of them were loose enough where there was any significant movement. Sorry to say but it sounds like you have a defect. Call Samsung, I'm sure you're still under warranty. It takes a couple weeks between sending it out and getting it back but at least it will be fixed and hopefully working properly. Good luck.
i can't say it's normal, but i guess it's pretty commom, mine is like yours and other two pieces i have tested are a little more or less equal... the weird thing is some users notice and some don't. my friend's nexus is just like mine and he never noticed until i told him!
I've noticed that the plastic piece at the bottom of the phone (where the USB port and hole for the mic are) creaks a little when I push on it. Nothing I'm fretting over but enough to be noticeable.
I just looked at my friends an his is really bad on the sides. He thinks it might be from taking the battery cover off an on alot. I wish there was some way to tighten it cause its now starting to bug me but not enough to send to samsung. I cant go without a phone for a few weeks
just like i said! =o)... and no way i will send it to samsung!
i guess i will wait whole piece comes out so i'll fix it with superglue! =o)

Permanently Fix SGS2 Echo and Digital Noise Reduction/Cancellation Problems

Hi All
I spent the last 2 days trying to find a simple solution to this problem. Even though my phone is still under manufacturers warranty and Service Providers warranty I decided to just do this as working carefully there will be no indication that the phone has been opened or the "fix" has been applied
I for one couldn't take my phone to a service centre as they would have booked in my phone and gave me some Nokia 3100 knock-off budget phone for one and the repair would have taken 21 days and having business requirements that my phone needs to meet I decided to just do it myself.
So I decided to open it up myself and fix it and here is the guide on how to permanently fix the echo that people get when phoning you.
Problem:
When you receive or make a call people on the other end of the line hear a echo of themselves and this might be intermittent but seem to be worse when having any type of cover on the phone.
Reason:
The reason this occurs is because the speaker depicted in the 3rd photo labelled as "B" has a rubber seal at the bottom of it that has gone loose from the casing by either a drop or some vibration that is making the speaker's sound go into the phone and picked up by the NC (Noise cancellation) microphone shown in the same photo as "A" rather than be isolated and out the speaker hole on the front of the phone.
Fix:
This fix is fairly simple and permanent. You only need a 5mm x 12mm piece of cardboard or think paper that is around 0.5mm thick that can be used as a buffer.
Procedure:
Step 1:
Picture 1 Shows the phone screws that should be removed 1st depicted by round red circles. Keep the screws in the same order as you remove them as only 4 of the 7 screws have locktite on them and be sure when you replace them you put them back in the same position.
Step 2:
Picture 1 As depicted from 1 to 6 is the easiest way to follow to unclip your back and front cover from one another to not break any of the clips. The back cover is very rugged so don't be afraid to unclip it as it is unlikely to break.
See Below Picture no1
Step 3:
Picture 2 is how it should look like when the back cover has been removed. We will only be focused on the area in the red block called ZZ
See Below Picture no2
Step 4:
Picture 3 shows the 2 components that's interfering with one another. "A" is the NC microphone sensor. Be sure to check that the sensor is properly inserted into the rubber sleeve covering it. "B" is the speaker and is glued with some ridiculously little amount of glue into the housing of "B" and can be lifted with a tweezers or some small object to be able to lift it out of the housing in "B"
See Below Picture no3
Step 5:
Picture 4 Loosen the speaker by just moving it in this aspect north and south a bit until it can be lifted up. Please note the arrow as it flips the way the arrow is pointing to expose the casing it is housed in. Clean out the housing of any dirt and wipe the speaker off as well of any dirt or substance that might elevate the speaker a little bit in its housing.
Step 6:
Picture 4 Flip the speaker back into its housing and firmly press it down so that it seats itself well in the housing. The rubber that the speaker is surrounded with should press firmly in the housing to seal it of any noise coming into the phone.
See Below Picture no4
Step 7:
This is where you use the piece of cardboard or thick paper of 5mm x 12mm by 0.5mm thick and place it over the speaker. I recommend cutting up a business card as they are the correct thickness. When looking at Picture 4 the cardboard should be covering the whole red block as depicted by "C" and should look like Picture 5 when placed
See Below Picture no5
Step 8:
Close up the phone and screw everything back together. The piece of cardboard or thick paper will ensure that the casing press the speaker tightly in place and keep it there without letting it leak into the phone to cause the echo effect for people calling you.
Step 9:
Enjoy calls without any echo effect.
This is all very simple to do and my echo has gone away completely. The replacement part they are referencing to in other topics is not really the problem and has nothing to do with it. In the process of replacing that part the speaker gets loosened and removed out of the housing and upon putting the phone back together they securely glue the speaker back in place and thats why they get the same results.
If this guide helped please post and say so. The problem has no relation to software or anything other than the speaker leaking sound into the phone being picked up by the NC.
Hope this helps. My phone is working 100% without any issues.
nice find!!! Ill wait for some more feedback untill i test this myself
So its samsung's fault that we have problems!
I tested 3 different brand new phones and all had the issue. Does this mean that Samsung fails to correctly assemble all of it's phones?!
manmad said:
nice find!!! Ill wait for some more feedback untill i test this myself
So its samsung's fault that we have problems!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ye to some extent. They should have used more glue to be honest but then it would have made it impossible to replace the part if it should break.
I fixed mine this morning this way that's why I made this post because I couldn't find anything to really help me to get this resolved and this is definitely the fix for it.
EQUANT said:
I tested 3 different brand new phones and all had the issue. Does this mean that Samsung fails to correctly assemble all of it's phones?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Think about it this way. Anything comes loose with vibration. Maybe the delivery company man handled the boxes a bit on delivery or the vibration on the phone itself while being shipped could have loosened it as well.
Remember the Speaker needs to be completely sealed off from the internals of the phone and that's why you need the buffer so that the casing can keep it firmly pressed in place and sealed off from the internals.
Been on the phone a lot today and every person I ask tells me there is absolutely no echo.
And that coming from a 100% guaranteed echo for the last month
so, anyone else tested this?
manmad said:
so, anyone else tested this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would seem that ppl will probably do it and then not come back to post it worked because my "Thank You" count went up yet no replies
If your phone does this why not just do it? You have nothing to lose
Fixeeeed!!
OMG! It really worked thank you
I have tried this and it still seems hit and miss.
The case i use is a CaseMate Tough, it still echoes with this case fitted. If I use my other case a CaseMate Slim, it still echoes to a degree but not as bad.
Definatley no echo with no case though.
On a side note and not a whinge, probably worth mentioning in your guide which way the buttons go around when they fall out when you take the back off
hi toxic dust Thanks for your guide,i didn't apply the fix yet...i'm italian so it's alittle bit difficult for me to follow and understand every step.
Is it ok to use insulating tape (like black tape)??
And did i understand properly ...you have to cover with the tape the whole "C" area highlighted in red?
Thank you very much
Thanks, will try it.
You sir, are a genius!
I don't have the echo problem (even with my Otterbox) but I will definitely keep this thread in mind if something comes up.
Thanks.
gasss12 said:
hi toxic dust Thanks for your guide,i didn't apply the fix yet...i'm italian so it's alittle bit difficult for me to follow and understand every step.
Is it ok to use insulating tape (like black tape)??
And did i understand properly ...you have to cover with the tape the whole "C" area highlighted in red?
Thank you very much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I prefer not to use anything with glue on it. You could probably use insulating tape (black tape) but you have to remember there are heat distribution on the inside of your phone and it might stick now but with heat applied any glue a specially on tape like that becomes soft and might short your phone as glue becomes conductive when in a liquid form.
Thick paper wont conduct at all and heat has no effect on it hence the preferance to a solid piece of thick paper or cardboard.
I used a Business card and cut that to the size I needed. I'm sure you could find a Business card of some sorts lying around
Yes. You have cover the complete section marked as "C". You will see that the marked section is the complete speaker. Just make sure that the paper is properly sized and is on it directly because you need it to securely press the speaker in place.
Definatley no echo with no case though.
On a side note and not a whinge, probably worth mentioning in your guide which way the buttons go around when they fall out when you take the back off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine was echoing without a case so for me its a 100% fix
The buttons can actually go in any way round. It will just make your button a bit more stiff to press. If you want the button smooth it has little hinges. Those hinges have a little dent in them on the 1 side. Ensure that those dents show to the screen side.
Mine alsof does it without a case. I think I'm going to try it in a few days!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Thx toxicdust. Your solution worked perfectly!!!
I had this echo problem since I started using the Samsung Galaxy S2 with a Melkco case and was frustrated about it. Then I decided to buy a larger accupack (Samsung 2000 mAh type EB-K1A2E). This came with a separate backcover so I needed another case. The new flipcase (Samsung EF-C1A2B) is compatible with this larger accu. I hoped with this new (Samsung!) case the echo would have disappeared, but no, it was not! After reading about this echo problem in a different forums I stumbled on your solution. This was the first one that was likely to be a good solution and not some quirky workaround. So I started following your instructions and can now say the echo is completely gone! Wow man, thank you for this. Some extra details: It was easy to take the 7 screws out, but a little uncomfortable to open the back after that. Most easy is to simply use your fingernail in between the front and back of the housing on the side and go around. In my case the speaker seemed not as loose as in your case, so I didn't bother to try further to take it out. Only thing I did was checking the fixing of the two mics (seemed okay), pushed the speaker unit carefully in its housing (but did not seem to move though) and put a small piece of a business card on the speaker as you indicated. See the white piece in the picture below. I think I made it al little bit bigger then your 12 x 5 mm. The acoustical feedback loop has broken this way, so it is a perfect solution which only takes 10 minutes to do.
I am convinced. I will try it tomorrow
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
dutchiek said:
Thx toxicdust. Your solution worked perfectly!!!
I had this echo problem since I started using the Samsung Galaxy S2 with a Melkco case and was frustrated about it. Then I decided to buy a larger accupack (Samsung 2000 mAh type EB-K1A2E). This came with a separate backcover so I needed another case. The new flipcase (Samsung EF-C1A2B) is compatible with this larger accu. I hoped with this new (Samsung!) case the echo would have disappeared, but no, it was not! After reading about this echo problem in a different forums I stumbled on your solution. This was the first one that was likely to be a good solution and not some quirky workaround. So I started following your instructions and can now say the echo is completely gone! Wow man, thank you for this. Some extra details: It was easy to take the 7 screws out, but a little uncomfortable to open the back after that. Most easy is to simply use your fingernail in between the front and back of the housing on the side and go around. In my case the speaker seemed not as loose as in your case, so I didn't bother to try further to take it out. Only thing I did was checking the fixing of the two mics (seemed okay), pushed the speaker unit carefully in its housing (but did not seem to move though) and put a small piece of a business card on the speaker as you indicated. See the white piece in the picture below. I think I made it al little bit bigger then your 12 x 5 mm. The acoustical feedback loop has broken this way, so it is a perfect solution which only takes 10 minutes to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ye I had the same thing. No matter where I googled there was absolutely no solution and decided to trouble shoot myself as I wont be waiting 21 days to get my phone back with "No fault Found" response from them in any ways. I also have the extended battery and that made me also use they Silicone case that makes it even worse
After seeing how rugged the SGS2 is in the drop test on SmartphoneEnvy.com I decided to not use a case anymore as a 5 foot drop directly on the screen barely scratched the casing and the screen got no damage at all.
I am glad the solution actually works for more people and thank you for the picture. If you don't mind I will put it in my guide at the top for better illustration
It worked! Thanks alot. Let's hope it stays fixed
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Please read my post I have made the step by step instruction
Here the link below:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=21795243&postcount=62
Cool. Even though you used rubber its cool. At least it fix the problem
Regardless of what is used it needs to be about 0.5mm think. Also remember that you might have had something underneath the speaker keeping it lifted regardless of the amount of pressure you put on it that's why its recommended to clean the speaker and the housing

Nexus7 power button fix

Introduction:
When a button mechanically clicks, that is the signal to you that you've done your part and you should expect the button to do its part. While I've seen this on several other devices, the Nexus7 2013 apparently has a widespread problem which manifests itself in "having to press the power button a certain way". This is caused by the glue used to assemble the buttons having seeped under the contacts.
Here's the fix.
You will need:
A gituar pick
Rubbing alcohol
A Q-Tip
Superglue
Instructions:
1. Remove the back cover from the device with a gitaur pick.
2. Peel up the tape/laminate covering the power button.
click for larger picture
3. Clean off both contact surfaces using rubbing alcohol.
click for larger picture
4. Reassemble the switch by replacing the tape
5. Using just a dab of glue on the edge of the button assembly, secure the button tape/lamination back into place.
6. Reassemble the device.
Conclusion:
And that's all there is to it. You may decide to skip the superglue during reassembly, but its a good idea to use it generally as removing the tape weakens the hold of the manufacturer's adhesive.
Make no mistakes, this is a manufacturing defect and you should have the ability to return the device to get a new one if you experience this problem. But, after this procedure, the power button should work easily, every time.
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
silentheero said:
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Xdatv is coming up on Wednesday and I will add that into here..
Glad to see the fix is easy. Not surprised to see the issue since Asus has just been making crap in terms of quality for a while now. Nexus 7 was better then I thought not having the crap asus quality but the new one has Asus all over it. Used Asus stuff for years and after the crap G75 laptop I had I will never get anything made by Asus. Sucks I wanted a new nexus 7 guess I'll wait till Samsung or lg or Motorola makes the third version.
Asus has just dropped off a cliff the past few years. They dident even go downhill they went from great to utter budget crap even the ROG line. Waiting to see the last great Asus products go down the same way. The Rog mobos. I was really hoping Google would push some weight saying they have to do some QC on the nexus 7.
Anyways great guide. But I'll add that on electronics you want 90%+ alch. Get the colorless with no scents added. Those leave traces behind. Should not matter on buttons like this but if anyone was wondering if they could use the red or green alch. I advise you to get the highest % with no colors or sents added. At my work for cleaning pcb's we use 98% but anything over 85% is great.
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
mjoa68 said:
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
AdamOutler said:
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
mjoa68 said:
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
AdamOutler said:
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is definitely much easier to get into the case starting near the buttons as there's more flex to it there. I suppose a better way to say it might be that if you can get started on the opposite side you will avoid possibly cracking it near the camera like I did. But you'd probably be fine starting near the buttons as long as you're very careful (and not as clumsy or impatient as I was ) working around that first corner.
I aint never had to open up anything like this and will have to to replace my screen. So glad I found this thread first and will be sure to check out the unboxing video before I do. and Yes isopropyl is a much better cleaner than other alcohol based solutions. Gonna do them buttons while Im in there.
I would not be nearly as daring to attempt any of this without the guidance from seasoned members. Thank you so much!!
Thank you so much! the power and volume buttons worked again flawlessly!
But I damaged my N7 13's thin black metal like bezels around the screen when I'm trying to open it, that stuff is really fragile :/
i did this, but i also placed on the power button contact a small piece of 'thickener'... in my case it came from a double sided tape. the sticky part contact on the power button contact, and the other side which has the cover (of the double sided tape), i didn't remove that cover. effectively, a small 'thickener'. then close back the device. fixed!
Adam, a quick question on this power/volume button thread. I got my Nexus 7 2013 version very briefly wet - I mean for a micro second. It does charge, but it won't power up. I can get it into bootloader and the volume buttons work, however, the power button does not. Is there a good way to test the power button using a multimeter or, should I just go ahead and replace the power button/volume button strip completely and hope that does the trick?
Thanks!
Chris
Chris: wet Nexus 7 bootloader only with volume buttons
Hi Chris,
My nan also got her tablet wet and can only access the bottloader with the volume buttons. Did you find a solution to make the power button work in the end? I've got a very useless paper weight sat around :/
Mike
I lost the rubber mic grommet replacing a cracked screen even knowing it was there. After 20 plus years coding with shot eyes, I paid my 2 nephews to come over and crawl around to find it (wife's phone - nuff said). Still took over an hour to find. So I put a small amount of rubber adhesive around the edges to make it fit snug. I've had it apart 4 times since and it stays put.
Sent from Ponius using XDA-Developers Legacy app

A Peak Inside the Priv

Just thought you all would like to take a little look under the cover of the Blackberry Priv. Apologies for image quality and lack of complete disassembly, I didn't want to burn my bridges for the warranty just for opening the back cover. If any of you are braver than I and feel like delving deeper, taking the cover is very easy. Just pry the left and right sides away with your fingernails so it is loose. Remove the SD card and SIM card tray. Then very carefully pry the top of the cover away from the device. Then simply slide the slightly tilted cover off the bottom, away from the speakers. From there you can see all the goods! I was just curious if I could find a discernible difference between the Samsung S series antennas and the Priv, for the sake of future MFT compatibility. It seems as though they both have the same antennas so the hardware difference must be chip-level. Bummer. Also you can see why the right side gets so hot with the battery and antennas sitting there.
Pics
What does the front bottom look like? I'm curious how big the speaker is.
Xaiux said:
What does the front bottom look like? I'm curious
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...Giggedy!!
The front bottom is taken up by the speaker assembly, it's relatively large; it fills the entire bottom lip of the back case.
Do you have a US or EU model?
Thanks. I've been waiting for internal shots.
ToniCipriani said:
Do you have a US or EU model?
Click to expand...
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I have the US model from AT&T.
I was thinking about opening the back and filling the empty space that plague the non-wireless charging variants of this phone
t_0_0_l said:
The front bottom is taken up by the speaker assembly, it's relatively large; it fills the entire bottom lip of the back case.
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Can you test the speaker? Reports online, including my own Priv, only the left works(Mono), but in this picture it shows the Priv having both Left and Right speakers. Can you take a picture of the front of the phone where the speakers are?
I'm confused as to why they would include L & R stereo speakers but only the Left works, is the R disabled? or did we all get Priv's that are defective. I had a feeling the whole bottom was a speaker grill, and this confirms it......
The whole bottom is definitely not a speaker. It's only the left third or so.
dc2000 said:
Can you test the speaker? Reports online, including my own Priv, only the left works(Mono), but in this picture it shows the Priv having both Left and Right speakers. Can you take a picture of the front of the phone where the speakers are?
I'm confused as to why they would include L & R stereo speakers but only the Left works, is the R disabled? or did we all get Priv's that are defective. I had a feeling the whole bottom was a speaker grill, and this confirms it......
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I also want to know the answer to this. Are units defective? It definitely shows two so why does everyone only hear mono sound from the left?
I don't think there's anything of the sort going on. Based on the pictures, since I'm not confident enough to peel the back off my own Priv, it looks like the thing you see on the right (left in the pic) is the control board for the 3.5mm jack combined with the mic, which presumably exists down there, since there's no other spot at the bottom of the unit where a mic could possibly be. It definitely only has the one speaker, but as far as I'm concerned, it's pretty exceptional for a phone. At least, I have no qualms with the sound from it, certainly much louder than any other phone I've had.
Forgot to add, I'm also confident that there's only one speaker because using Poweramp and toggling the Mono output setting, as well as the balance from Left to Right, everything only sounds like it comes from the one speaker.
Sorry guys, my mistake. I hadn't even tested my speakerphone until today. I based my assumption on the fact there is a baffle material under the span of the case baffle and the "L" and "R" label on the plastic assemblies on the board. I hadn't tried to disassemble it further. There is someone on YouTube that will give a complete teardown in a couple of days so if I don't see it posted I'll crack my phone open again to investigate.
That escalated quickly
gtfo of xda
gof!uckyourself said:
You can all suck my ****, you pricks. Your a bunch of wankers who are living in a basement. Go and get outside into the real world you low life mutant pricks. There's more to life than a spiders cobweb, and your dusty seats, also light exists. Nobody likes basement-dwelling losers who haven't seen a light before, except your screen. Cobwebs sure are nice aren't they? It's what you have for your meals. Now go **** yourselves you nerds, and go and eat some dog ****.
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oh wow you enlightened me! Thanks!
Great!
I just can't believe the OEM cover already scratches the Priv, I can see where are the pressure point of the plastic in just 2 days....
That is why I hate Hard Cases.
TheGeeZus said:
Great!
I just can't believe the OEM cover already scratches the Priv, I can see where are the pressure point of the plastic in just 2 days....
That is why I hate Hard Cases.
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Just remove from the case and pull plastic button inserts out. Take a mini philips screwdriver like for eyeglasses and scrape the little piece of plastic out on both sides. There will be 2 on left and 2 on right then use super glue to adhere the plastic buttons directly to where the little plastic pieces were above and below the buttons. It works for me and no indentions.
momulah said:
Just remove from the case and pull plastic button inserts out. Take a mini philips screwdriver like for eyeglasses and scrape the little piece of plastic out on both sides. There will be 2 on left and 2 on right then use super glue to adhere the plastic buttons directly to where the little plastic pieces were above and below the buttons. It works for me and no indentions.
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Should have done that before but I am humanly struggling with my "OCD" and trying to forget about it, but will leave it like that as the damage is already done and I really want to save the hassle with an exchange.
Thanks for the tip anyways
TheGeeZus said:
Should have done that before but I am humanly struggling with my "OCD" and trying to forget about it, but will leave it like that as the damage is already done and I really want to save the hassle with an exchange.
Thanks for the tip anyways
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I think they addressed the problem because the rivets on the one I received the other day were flat as heck and did not protrude like photos I've seen. There wasn't anything to cut with an exacto even if I wanted to. It's still a plastic piece of junk though ($40?!) and I decided to just use a pocket pouch...brings me back to the G1 days
BlueEditionE6 said:
oh wow you enlightened me! Thanks!
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What in the name of cobwebs happened here!

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