Related
I am looking for something specific, but don't know what … maybe you guys can help me out.
Let me provide some background first. There are special controllers for espresso machines available which act as a PID controller for temperature regulation. To simplify things: They read the temperature of the water and regulate the heating element to a specific temperature with much greater precision than the integrated "mechanical" thermostat is able to.
Today there are kits for various espresso machines available, but they are rather expensive. So I was thinking: Well, what about some homebrew stuff (no pun intended)? I could fit more functionality in there and – here comes the interesting part for the XDA community – connect the controller to my Galaxy Nexus!
My first idea was grabbing some development platform (e.g. Arduino or IOIO), but I'm not sure if this is the right approach. Let me explain what the perfect board can do:
- read two or three temperature probes
- read a water level sensor
- read and control four switches
- provide some kind of CPU for acting as a controller
- provide a clock to "wake" the machine in the morning
- provide a USB connection for controlling from Android and programming/flashing from OS X
- optional: Bluetooth functionality for wireless Android control
I can figure out how to wire the stuff together and how to write some PID software. But the most interesting part will be the Android connectivity, but I have no idea what platform I can use …
It would be awesome to plug a USB cable in (or connect via Bluetooth) and read the live temperature data, start/stop the brewing process and so on. The PID has to regulate the machine without the phone – depending on the switch state (i.e. "pull a shot" or "make steam") the heating element would be regulated.
Of course there are even more interesting applications, like sending a tweet ("I just brewed a coffee!") or a pressure readout …
As far as I understand, I just have to look for a single-board microcontroller with some analogue and digital inputs, some digital outputs and a USB connection. Is this possible with something like an Arduino? Or do I need something more complex?
Hey! Nice to see another homebrewer! They sell chips like that already. People have converted freezers to kegerators, and the chip manages the temp, turning on the freezer around 55 degrees F.
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I would suggest you toying with Android ADK
This is a board you could use is: arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardADK it's a bit pain in the ass to set it up for the first time but once you get used to it it's pretty simple
Freezer? 55 degrees? I'm talking about brewing espresso … The problem there is temperature stability within 1° Celsius.
I already learned more about the Arduino platform and I think it is the right idea for my small project.
As far as I know a bluetooth connection via Android can be established, too.
You should definitely check out a book called;
"Programming Your Home: Automate with Arduino, Android and Your Computer"
Author is Mike Riley.
Publisher is The Pragmatic Bookshelf, Dallas Texas - Raleigh, North Carolina.
I'm pretty sure it's available as an e-book and is full of projects combining these technologies.
The first project has a ball float incorporated in it so I think it's perfect for your idea.
I'm working on a sous-vide immersion circulator at the moment, but it isn't too complex.
A PID controller does all the hard work.
PS
No barista in their right mind would let a machine steam milk!
---------- Post added at 05:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 PM ----------
...almost forgot - ISBN-13: 978-1-93435-690-6
You can pretty much do everything including put the PID into the Arduino. You though will need to create the shield board with the extra sensors you need. Once that is available talking to the Arduino from Nexus is a cake walk. The USB Host and well as USB Accessory mode API is pretty straight forward and you can use either depending on how you want to interface the two. If you use some other microcontroller board other than Arduino then you will probably not be able to use Accessory mode but will have to use the USB Host with the microcontroller board exposed as a CDC class device using the USB as virtual serial port (Atmel, MicroChip controllers provide this interface). Also you will need to hack your Nexus to provide additional power supply (probably using Pogo pins) as USB port will be powering your controller board.
Best of luck!
pankaj013 said:
You can pretty much do everything including put the PID into the Arduino. You though will need to create the shield board with the extra sensors you need. Once that is available talking to the Arduino from Nexus is a cake walk. The USB Host and well as USB Accessory mode API is pretty straight forward and you can use either depending on how you want to interface the two. If you use some other microcontroller board other than Arduino then you will probably not be able to use Accessory mode but will have to use the USB Host with the microcontroller board exposed as a CDC class device using the USB as virtual serial port (Atmel, MicroChip controllers provide this interface). Also you will need to hack your Nexus to provide additional power supply (probably using Pogo pins) as USB port will be powering your controller board.
Best of luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a device that supports OTG/USB Host, a USB-enabled microcontroller is MUCH cheaper than ADK (which requires the accessory to act as a host).
ADK should be described as "DDK" - Dock Development Kit. The requirement for the "accessory" to act as a host and to provide power makes it limited to dock-style devices. True accessories should be powerable from the device.
Adafruit's ATMega32U4 board is a great one to work with - https://www.adafruit.com/products/296
Another option, much more expensive but allows your device to be network-enabled easily (built-in Ethernet) is the BeagleBone. Lots of GPIOs on 0.1" headers and Ethernet.
I would tend to lean towards arduino. It is certainly powerful enough. All the research I have done makes conecting bluetooth really easy. Although serial to android seems a bit more difficult. For the task you are trying to do I would expect a standard arduino (or clone) and a bluetooth module off of ebay (make sure you choose one that can handle 5v) should be a good starting point.
I have only every made diy arduino buy purchasing the usbisp cable and pl-2303 style usb>serial ttl adaptors. If you search on ebay some of them have the dtr line on one of the pins making auto reset easy. They are a bit more rare, but are worth searching for and paying a few dollars more.
I have never done brewing, but fiddle with arduino (atmega8 atmega168 atmega328 atmega644p atmega1284p). Feel free to ask questions.
arjag said:
I would tend to lean towards arduino. It is certainly powerful enough. All the research I have done makes conecting bluetooth really easy. Although serial to android seems a bit more difficult. For the task you are trying to do I would expect a standard arduino (or clone) and a bluetooth module off of ebay (make sure you choose one that can handle 5v) should be a good starting point.
I have only every made diy arduino buy purchasing the usbisp cable and pl-2303 style usb>serial ttl adaptors. If you search on ebay some of them have the dtr line on one of the pins making auto reset easy. They are a bit more rare, but are worth searching for and paying a few dollars more.
I have never done brewing, but fiddle with arduino (atmega8 atmega168 atmega328 atmega644p atmega1284p). Feel free to ask questions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will have to agree on that one, but only by experience.
those chips are a pleasure to deal with.
I even got my tablet talking to mine before I screwed it up!
Hit me up here or on #arduino on freenode (or anyone else there for that matter) if you want any hints or help if you decide to go that route, I'd be happy to help!
DW
You should try Arduino board, it's not that difficult to use and they're plenty of resources on the Internets.
Also, you could develop an Android app for controlling it. My team had successfully developed an Android controlled RC-car via Bluetooth.
You could find the source code of the Android app here on Github!
Another approach might be to get an ethernet shield for arduino and hook it up to your homw network. Then you could use a browser to control it, so you are not just limited to your Android device.
Ethernet setup is really simple, start with the demo code and modify to your needs.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda app-developers app
check out the andropod
Not 100% what you described, but this is absolutely rad nonetheless...
i just saw this the other day: http://www.ftdichip.com/Android.htm
with a standard UART to android usb host in one cable, you can do regular old RS232 or TTL-voltage RS232 comms with practically any of the simplest of the simple mcu's out there.
UART interfacing hardware with your phone? it'd be super easy to write java or shell interface wrappers to do tons of cool automation stuff, plus if you have an old beater phone lying around, it's a super robust DAQ unit in the making...
booooiiinnnniiiiiinnnnnggggg I want...
http://code.google.com/p/tc4-shield/
It's already got a four-channel ADC intended for thermocouple use, as well as GPIOs to drive the SSRs. People have already worked out zero-crossing detectors if you want finer control.
The water probe is a little problematic; I'd stick with the existing Gicar or equivalent.
I'm in the process of using it for thermocouple and power-relay interface to a Raspberry Pi to run a La Marzocco GS I'm restoring.
The Arduino is disappointing in its computational power. Its enough to run a PID, but can't really deal with a TCP stack and a webserver too.
Please note that Arduino can use Bluetooth connectivity to Android. It is easy on Arduino and very convenient.
Arduino can be battery powered for a long time if you program its sleep mode correctly.
http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?35674-HeaterMeter-v4-0-for-RaspberyPi-Standalone
Shouldn't be a far leap from a fan/heating element to a water heating element. Plus: "HeaterMeter is also reportedly suitable for connecting to a solid state relay and controlling a sous vide heater if you prefer your food float around in fancy water instead of smoke and fire."
Arduino (or Msp430 Launchpad, or Microchip Pic or whatever) + a cheap, 6 dollar Bluetooth Serial adapter, + coding an app for android is all you need. Don't mess with usb or ethernet/wifi. Bluetooth Serial is all you need.
also use Android Suit
Hi all,
I already had an older post asking for what the unpopulated soldered line of pads close to the Samsung flash memory chip might be useful for. To me it's clear already that it has been used during development (e.g. from the kernel sources it looks like they used to connect an ethernet interface to those pins).
Yesterday I spent some time probing for signals with an oscilloscope. There's already good news to those who might think about extending flash memory size of the Kindle Fire: pads 1-4 are directly connected to the OMAP4's MCSPI1_{CLK,SOMI,SIMO,CS0}, pads 36-37 carry GND and pads 39-40 carry 4.2V (unregulated from battery I guess as it's also not switched off when KF is off). The MCSPI can be configured to 48MHz (according to the kernel sources) and we can start connecting SPI hardware to it. I did for fun with some tiny CAN controller I had lying around and that worked out of the box using the spidev and some generic CAN driver from the network section.
Luckily, most SDcards can also be accessed via SPI. I will also try that out soon. Transfer speeds will not exceed 6MByte/s, in practice probably only half of that, but it might be enough for those who dare to extend flash memory. While probing for signals, I also noticed that the Samsung chip seems to be accessed by a single wire only, too. I might be wrong on this, but it would certainly fit the picture as max. transfer speeds do exactly match the 208MBit/s for a 1-wire eMMC connection. Maybe someone else noticed the same already.
Unfortunately, I yet only found two other useful signals routed directly to those pads: DPM_EMU0/1 (pads 16-17). I suspect that 6 other JTAG signals are also routed there, but I can't probe for them as those pads can't be configured to be used as GPIOs.
More on this to come soon...
Best,
STYLON
I just realized that I should send out a quick warning to those that are a little less well equipped with electronics gear.
Most signals on that connector are connected directly to the OMAP4430 without any buffer. They're also from the 1.8 volt domain. That means you can't connect an SD card directly to those pins.
In order to connect an SD card you need at least a level shifter (like the SN74AVCH4T245 that is already somewhere on the board) to convert signals between 1.8v and 3.3v (that's what the SD cards expect). You may also need a 3.3v LDO and connect it to the unregulated battery voltage from that connector.
I'll do some experiments with that very soon, but just wanted to order an SD card slot (don't like to solder to SD card pads directly) and some other pieces before I go ahead.
Best,
STYLON
Introducing the PiPUB (Powered USB Board).
The all-in-one Raspberry Pi power supply and USB hub.
Hey all,
Just wanted to gather interest for something that I am working on.
See attached photos...
What it is/has:
A x4 Port, Powered USB Hub
A Power supply for the Raspberry Pi with overvoltage protection built in.
A Power Switch that completely removes power from the Raspberry Pi after initiating a safe shutdown
An IR receiver
A Remote On/Off switch for any single IR command "learnt" from a remote of your choosing
And IR extender - Gives you the ability to stick the Pi to the back of your TV and have the IR receiver discreetly mounted to the bottom of the screen.
All of this and the ability to fit within your current Raspberry Pi Case
Let me know what you think. Would any of you be interested in one?
Edit:
Kickstarter campaign started: https://www.kickstarter.com/project...b-and-power-control-for-raspbe?ref=nav_search
So, it's actually just something like this?
Improved schematic:
Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk
Not really.
Your schematic shows bypassing the raspberry pi protection circuits. Although this is fine if you know 100% that you have a decent power supply. However, I don't consider this ideal.
My board does away with the microUSB port used to power the Raspberry Pi. Instead it has its own standard DC 5V power in (see picture) which has its own protection circuit equal to that of the Raspberry Pi. It then splits the power supply to the hub and Pi, dedicating constant 5V supply to the Pi through the GPIO. This means when you plug in your USB powered HDD into the PiPUB, the sudden current draw does not effect in any way the power supply of your Pi and your Pi is protected from power surges.
Pretty neat stuff! I need this kind of setup!
Sent from my SCH-I545 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
I am the co developer of the PiPUB and have a few more technical and operational details to add.
The hub controller is a Multiple Transaction Translator type meaning all 4 ports run at their maximum speed regardless of the generation of USB device that is connected. Some hubs are slowed down when earlier generation devices are connected.
The PiPUB plugs into one of the existing USB ports by a small, near flush PCB connector. For the keener DIY’er you can solder the USB data lines to the back of the Pi’s USB connector.
All upstream and downstream USB ports are protected against ESD by high speed, low capacitance TVS diodes.
5V power is inputted via a standard 5.5x2.1mm DC connecter through a 3A poly fuse and large TVS for over-current and voltage protection. Power to the Pi is then split off through a 1.1A poly fuse to the GPIO pins, similar to the existing power distribution on the Pi. We have loaded up all USB ports to 500mA and had the Pi running with negligible voltage drop.
You can use either the on board IR receiver or plug in the IR extension. They both work at 38Khz which is fairly common amongst remotes. These pass IR from your remote to the Pi via GPIO 18 and also to the microcontroller to control the power to the hub and Pi. You can map your particular remote to control XBMC.
There is a power button and LED that sits to the left of the audio jack above the Pi’s status LED’s.
If the Pi is OFF, pushing the power button or the learned IR remote button turns the power ON. If power is ON and the power script is installed or the XBMC addon we have created is installed, our board will initiate a safe shutdown. If neither is installed power will be switched off straight away. GPIO 23 and 24 are used for this.
On board is an open collector transistor that allows you to switch loads up to 250mA from GPIO 25. The intent of this is to allow people to control their own peripheral like a fan if desired.
It fits into the Black Multicomp and ModMyPi Cases without modification. It is then up to you to drill and cut the holes you want. We recommend the Black Multicomp case as it is an easy plastic to work with, it is the cheapest and certainly looks the part! In the future we hope to design a 3D printable case and a laser cut acrylic case similar to the Adafruit version for people to make.
If you have any suggestions on how we could improve the design and function it would be much appreciated.
Great little board, where do I get one?
Sent from my GT-N7105 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Thanks! We will be running a little Kickstarter campaign in the next week or two. Will let you know.
Great board! I was looking for a solution to shutdown the Raspberry Pi with a remote control.
Will this board work with the new Raspberry Pi B+? (Just ordered one to get rid of my hub...)
I've got 2 suggestions:
1. add a radio control-module (receiver and sender), so you will not only be able to shutdown the Raspberry Pi but also devices like an external HDD or the TV pluged in a radio controlled power outlets.
(background: I'm using my RPi as server with an external HDD and a printer as well as a wifi-router and when i'm leaving home, I don't use it, so I'm looking for a convenient way to shutdown all devices.)
2. offer a case suited for the Rpi+PiPUB (perhaps as stretchgoal in your kickstarter-campaign?)
Unfortunately it won't work with the B+ as the power button sits where the new set of USB ports are. We may look at producing a B+ version if our Kickstarter is a success (starting in the next 24hrs).
1. If the other devices you are looking at controlling have IR then the PiPub has AUX pads which you could solder 2-3 IR LED's to in series. It is connected to GPIO25 with a transistor so the LED's can be powered correctly. Using LIRC and a script I can see no reason why you couldn't get it to shutdown/power-up your other devices when the learnt IR button for the PiPub has been received. I haven't tried this but it seems more than plausible.
But it sounds like you are using RF controlled power outlets which I'm unsure how you could interface.
2. Like you suggest we would love to offer a case as a stretch goal. Most likely just a laser cut acrylic or 3D printable design. However it would be awesome if we could get Multicomp to modify their design to suit the PiPub!
Kickstarter up and running...
Hi all,
Kickstarter campaign is up.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/22555674/pipub-powered-usb-hub-and-power-control-for-raspbe?ref=nav_search
Please spread the word and help us make this a reality.
Ah, great! Perhaps, shutdown the RPi via IR is enough. I'll see
I got some new questions...
1. As I understand, the PiPuB has an external power supply. Does this power supply power the Raspberry Pi as well, or does the RPi "still" need its own power supply? (could save one power outlet)
2. Is this IR expansion cable anything special, which can only obtained by you? Would be nice to buy it afterwards if neccessary.
Yup. One of best things about the PiPub is that it removes the need for heaps of cables. The single 5V 3A power supply poweres the USB hub and the Raspberry Pi.
The IR extension is nothing special. You can find these on the internet or even a local electronics store. We tested a few and found some to be less ideal than others in terms of practicality. The one we're offering is what we deemed to be the best option but you may very well find something better...
Thanks!
One last question comes to my mind:
How can I use an IR remote with XBMC? In your video, you showed how to program one button of the remote. But what about the rest? I.e. the Flirc USB stick comes with special software to provide this functionality.
phoenix0_4 said:
Thanks!
One last question comes to my mind:
How can I use an IR remote with XBMC? In your video, you showed how to program one button of the remote. But what about the rest? I.e. the Flirc USB stick comes with special software to provide this functionality.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
XBMC can be configured to receive IR commands through the GPIO port. The PiPub has an on board IR receiver that is connected to GPIO 18 and also an optional external IR receiver that can be connected. You have to run through a bit of configuration to learn your remote and assign the buttons to a function. Some good info about it here.
wiki.openelec.tv/index.php/Guide_To_lirc_rpi_GPIO_Receiver
druss.pp.ua/2012/08/raspbmc-lirc-gpio-xbmc-en/
ah, I see. Thanks again. I also found some how-tos in german.
So, I backed your project by pledging for a PiPub + power supply. Would be a nice "toy".
BTW, I found a similar kickstarter-project (but without IR or a switch). It's called "Raspiado". (because I'm new in this forum, I can't post a link, sorry.)
phoenix0_4 said:
ah, I see. Thanks again. I also found some how-tos in german.
So, I backed your project by pledging for a PiPub + power supply. Would be a nice "toy".
BTW, I found a similar kickstarter-project (but without IR or a switch). It's called "Raspiado". (because I'm new in this forum, I can't post a link, sorry.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the support.
Yea, unfortunately the Raspiado beat us to it with the KickStarter. I think the Raspiado is nice, but does not solve many of the Pi's issues. I don't understand the purpose of thes long custom USB cables if you're trying to reduce clutter.
What we wanted to focus on is the main issues faced by users of the Raspberry Pi in MediaCentre applications. This being said, the PiPub is still very useful in other applications. Just the power switch alone is massive capibility addition. See: https://www.modmypi.com/pi-supply. This sells for $23USD. Our PiPub is $33USD and does this while still fitting inside your Raspberry Pi case!
Thanks again for your support. :highfive:
Please repost this elsewhere and help us spread the word.
I just made the announcement in a german Raspberry Pi-forum and in the OpenELEC-forum. Perhaps it will help...
phoenix0_4 said:
I just made the announcement in a german Raspberry Pi-forum and in the OpenELEC-forum. Perhaps it will help...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that.
Josh.5 said:
Thanks for that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you're welcome.
Do you know any htpc-forum, which could be another good address?
Alternative
Now that this project did not happen, there is an alternative add-on board available, called RemotePi Board (msldigital.com), it has similar functionality, the IR receiver and power controller but no additional USB ports. Because they have a version for the Raspberry B+ which has 4 USB port this may be a non-issue.
I am looking for a tablet that I can hack for some home control applications. In particular this device looks like a good candidate as it is about the same cost as a WiFi thermostat and far more capable.
So 2 basic questions... 1: Are there any underutilized GPIO pins that were broken out of the CPU BGA that I can access with a fine tipped solering iron? This is commonly done so that in circuit board tests can validate that there are no solder bridges.
2. Does anyone have a I2C map to know which addresses are utilized, and as an extension to this, know how to make requests on that I2C buss.
I am sorry I know these are very broad questions. I am looking to turn this into a total home control panel including thermostat. So basically for this task I am trying to get GPIO (Preferably 3.3 or 5V) that I can use for some fets to control HVAC, and some I2C lines that I can use to dead-bug in humidity, temp, pressure, ambient light sensors, and IR motion sensor.
I will post a writeup complete with wiring and code if this works out.
P,
neat question, how do i go about getting i2c map? are you working with t53x t33x or t23x ?
hardware hacking would probably be a better section for this, or stack exchange though.
can that be found in kernel source? drivers/i2c/busses/i2c-qup.c or the like?
m
Okay so on my device I have two serial ports. One port is labeled J2 with 4 pin outs that I think is the UART. The seconded port labeled JPEEK3 has 6 pin outs that I think is the JTAG. Here's the problem, they aren't giving me UART and JTAG readings on my multimeter or logic analyzer.
J2 is reading like this.
3.28VGND3.28V3.28V
No data just straight to idling high.
As for JPEEK3 I'm reading this
GND.04V.04V2.95V2.95VGND
On this I'm getting data on all active pins. I tried hooking my JTAGulator up to the device to read it but every time I do the device it's stuck in reset mode.
Anyone got any idea of what these readings mean?
biomedguy said:
Okay so on my device I have two serial ports. One port is labeled J2 with 4 pin outs that I think is the UART. The seconded port labeled JPEEK3 has 6 pin outs that I think is the JTAG. Here's the problem, they aren't giving me UART and JTAG readings on my multimeter or logic analyzer.
J2 is reading like this.
3.28VGND3.28V3.28V
No data just straight to idling high.
As for JPEEK3 I'm reading this
GND.04V.04V2.95V2.95VGND
On this I'm getting data on all active pins. I tried hooking my JTAGulator up to the device to read it but every time I do the device it's stuck in reset mode.
Anyone got any idea of what these readings mean?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The voltage levels for the UART are OK.
UART "J2"
3.28V GND 3.28V 3.28V
It could match the signals:
VCC, GND, TxD, RxD
For UART you need to know the communication baud rate and other connection parameters. You also need to know the communication protocol at the UART layer.
The voltage levels for JTAG are OK.
JTAG "JPEEK3"
GND .04V .04V 2.95V 2.95V GND
It could match the signals:
GND, CLK, DIO, RST, VCC, GND
Which is JTAG in SWD mode.
Maybe "JPEEK3" is SWD?
For full JTAG you have this pins on "JPEEK3":
TDI, TCK, TMS, TDO, RST, VDD, GND
If RST is missing in JTAG, the problem is to get the target into debug mode if the targer has its own power supply.
Appreciate the help, never considered the pinouts for JPEEK3 to be SWD.
The board doesn't technically have it's own supply, the power comes from other boards that it's connected to, in order to power on. Should I figure out a way to power it on with a power bank in that case?
As for the UART, I have a DSLogic Plus, should I just test multiple baud rates and see what happens? I'm not sure what other protocols and communications to look for other then that.
biomedguy said:
Appreciate the help, never considered the pinouts for JPEEK3 to be SWD.
The board doesn't technically have it's own supply, the power comes from other boards that it's connected to, in order to power on. Should I figure out a way to power it on with a power bank in that case?
As for the UART, I have a DSLogic Plus, should I just test multiple baud rates and see what happens? I'm not sure what other protocols and communications to look for other then that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a question of whether the board is powered from an external source or only from the JTAG programmer (SWD). For JTAG / SWD, it is better if the target is powered only from the JTAG programmer (SWD), unless it is required to power other peripherals and cover power requirements. For JTAG (SWD), there must be direct JTAG (SWD) programmer support for a specific target (MCU), debug mode, Flash write, and so on. Each MCU has a different protocol and must be directly supported by the JTAG (SWD) programmer or control software. For JTAG (SWD) communication, you can change the communication speed arbitrarily (it is not fixed), if it fails to connect to the target (MCU), you can reduce the communication speed.
For the UART, the communication speed (connection) is precisely determined in advance, you must know it or analyze the output data (timing of given bytes using DSLogic Plus ) if it is sent natively on the UART interface (boot log). The protocol on the UART interface also needs to be known if it is not a shell terminal output.
Well hot dog, that's a lot of solid info. Appreciate it, really.
I just got a flyswatter2 in the mail, hopefully that'll be compatible with the AT91 Atmel MCU on the board, apparently it's using an ARM7 processor. Good to know to not power on the board like I have been with the JTAGulator and DSLogic.
You wouldn't happen to know how to locate the configuration memory for the FPGA, now would you? I'm talking with my cousin whose an EE major, and he was asking for it. I'm not even sure how that'll help with getting into the JTAG.
biomedguy said:
Well hot dog, that's a lot of solid info. Appreciate it, really.
I just got a flyswatter2 in the mail, hopefully that'll be compatible with the AT91 Atmel MCU on the board, apparently it's using an ARM7 processor. Good to know to not power on the board like I have been with the JTAGulator and DSLogic.
You wouldn't happen to know how to locate the configuration memory for the FPGA, now would you? I'm talking with my cousin whose an EE major, and he was asking for it. I'm not even sure how that'll help with getting into the JTAG.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Atmel AT91 MCU is supported by OpenOCD. Flyswatter2 works with OpenOCD. From the FT2232H chip used by Flyswatter2, I made a programmer for SPI EEPROM [https://geekdoing.com/threads/unbrick-mi-band-3-with-without-nfc.700/]
I have never used Field Programmable Gate Arrays (FPGA), always only MCUs, I will not advise you in this area. Unfortunately. FPGA arrays have configuration memory as an external memory chip.
The JTAG programming interface is also used for FPGA arrays. FPGA and MCU are completely different technologies. Custom MCUs can also be created using an FPGA array.