Hoping someone can tell me what this 2 ports are?
i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/greatwhitepine/P1040979.jpg
thanks,
Benjamin
The picture isn't good enough to tell for sure, but one (the lower right one) looks like an RF connector for factory test. I wouldn't mess with this, as frequently if you damage it the device's internal antenna becomes disconnected and it no longer has signal.
The picture isn't good enough for me to tell what the other one is.
Are you trying to be funny? You post a very poor internal photo of some unknown device, and ask random people if they know what it is? My response is, the port is whatever you'd like it to be. I'd first try connecting a 1.5 MV Tesla coil to those ports...
Related
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
I will be opening up the phone in the next few days due to me managing to damage the sim card holder section(not holding sim card) So at present i have got somthing putting pressure to keep sim card in place. I have a new sim card holder on order so when it arrives i will pull phone apart and take some pictures.
If you have any advice for me before attempting this please let me know via pm
Do you have any experience in this kind of electronics? I mean, are you planning to replace and solder the SIM card holder by yourself?
If you have not done this type of soldering before, I do not recommend it.
If you do decide to do it on your own, make sure:
You are working on a clean workspace
You are well grounded and not wearing wool clothes mixed with synthetic materials to avoid any ESD.
Have the right tools for the job.(Temp controlled SMD soldering iron + flux and acid-free lead-free SMD solder etc.)
A very steady hand with good eyes!
As for the pictures, keep the environment as bright as possible, preferably daylight. Try to keep your PCB on a bright or neutral background. (Bright cardboard is usually good.) Inspect your pictures and make sure you can read the text on the smallest chips. (The big ones we already know about, its the smaller ones that are difficult to navigate around.) Make sure the pictures are well focused.
Good Luck!
From looking at the pictures I was hoping I don't have to solder the sim card slot in. It looks easily replaceable as it looks like it's just a connector and not soldered
Replaced the sim holder. My camera wasn't good enough to get focus of the smaller chips however it is very very easy to take phone apart. And I guess Samsung are expecting issues with sim slot so they have fixed it using one screw and connected to board using a pull off connecter.
Just in case anyone else is interested the sim holder/sd holder cost me £20, delivered.
E:V:A said:
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
amazing !!!
Hi guys,
Here is my contribution to da community, hope so it helps.
h t t p s : / / docs . google . com/open?id=0B9lrf7AWQW7ETjRZTkFXb1luN0E
On image 20120616_150200.jpg you can see the region jumpers. The images are of a live demo unit - everything works besides the GSM/3G data. Haven't tested to see if the NFC is working.
The real unit has some more antenna connector. The demo one does not have PBA /printed board antenna/ the ANT102 and ANT103 as well as the capacitors and the coils u may seen them market in red cycles (ANT102, ANT103, C102, C191, L103, L102) there is no room on the MOBO for C192 /or at least I can't find its place/.
Thanks.
^^ Here is the link for above! (Thanks!)
Hi again,
I can confirm that the NFC is working on the live demo unites. According to the original S3 user manual the NFC antennas are build into the battery back.
I still can't figure out what is the "W2" antenna connector for. The Live demo unit has no connector soldered to the motherboard and also lacks the small PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable. Some ppl claim that the W2 is for WiFi antenna, but it is not, because I got great WiFi connectivity tho the lack of such PCB antenna. I can only confirm the WiFi working fine, under "G" type of WiFi networks. The openWRT firmware of my current router has known bug and I can't bring up "N" standard in air, to check if the PCB antenna is for "N" type of WiFi networks.
I also did some testing to see if the PCB is for GLONASS or GPS, and it seams that this PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable is not for any of these services. That's why I think it might be for wifi "N" or 3G data/networks. Donno if the 802.11n requires a separate antenna.
^^ Please post a link to a specific image, that clearly show the connector(s) you're talking about.
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
No one has any insights ???
johnny21a said:
No one has any insights ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have sgs3, international version on my workbench right now.
Don´t have any clue what could I share, so - if there is anything specific -- let me know. I will do my best..
BR
Samsung galaxy S3 i747
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
check if you can see anything on the screen, use some extra light, torch for example.
if so - then its more likely that the LEDs in the display panel are damaged, since it flickered, as you said. also could be the driver circuit for backlight. Clean connectors for display panel, use magnifier, or better microscope to check for corrosion. use IPA to clean or scrape off the corrosion.
also - maybe this is not the right place to discuss this.
GL
Redrigon said:
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have he white antenna coaxial cable neigh the PCB antenna board that this cable is connected to but I have WiFi.
Could it be for WiFi N(150Mbps)?
Watter damage, LCD working/not working?
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have identical symptoms with my i9300.
1. Water damaged
2. Dried in a can of rice etc over several days
3. Cleaned under sim card, lots of debris there, looked scorched, I cleaned with alcohol and a brush in an ESD protected environment.
4. Re assembled, the display briefly flashed on, and showed the expected "Battery is low, an d No Sim Card" then powered off.
5. Now after charging the battery and emplacing my sim card, I hear the proper musical tones when the phone boots but the screen doesn't light.
Where you able to get the screen working?
I am going to try a more throughal cleaning and I will try viewing the LCD under a more power full light.
I too worry that just getting the LCD screen replaced might not work; the screen may be fine but the mother board LCD power supply might be at fault...
I will keep you posted and keep an eye on this forum to find out how to fix this.
This thread has served its main purpose.
OT discussions are prevalent.
Thread Closed!
I want to permanently disable my Samsung Galaxy S4's internal antenna. I know doing this seems a bit unorthodox but I have my reasons why I want to do so. I will be connecting an external antenna via the L1 port using a patch lead cable. No I don't want to use the internal antenna ever so I'm wondering how it can be disconnected; I don't want any responses asking me why I want this to be done I just want possible solutions. I was wondering if I could open the phone and somewhat remove the antenna or mess with the antenna contacts so it could stop working I'm not sure though so I need either a hardware or software solution.
The antenna is simply a wire running down the side of the battery compartment. Open the S4, disconnect that wire, and you should be able to achieve what you want.
Just one thing. Telling people you don't want questions as to why you're doing this is inevitably going to lead to people asking questions as to why you're doing this. In the future, if you don't want to pique people's curiosity, either come out and say why you're doing it, or don't make such an announcement.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
The antenna is simply a wire running down the side of the battery compartment. Open the S4, disconnect that wire, and you should be able to achieve what you want.
Just one thing. Telling people you don't want questions as to why you're doing this is inevitably going to lead to people asking questions as to why you're doing this. In the future, if you don't want to pique people's curiosity, either come out and say why you're doing it, or don't make such an announcement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay thanks I will get a technician to pull the device for me. The reason i am doing it is that I am electrically sensitive...WiFi...cell signals they make me sick. The condition is relatively rare in some countries but it's increasing worldwide. Most times when I mention it to people that I am a 22 yr old electrically sensitive software engineer there's so much skepticism and ridicule because most people don't believe in the harmful effects of wireless radiation because they haven't experienced it first hand.
So my aim is to disconnect the internal antennae, then have an external one that's a good distance away that I connect to my device so I can use cell services without the radiation affecting me. I have a radio frequency meter that I use to measure the signals.The source of radiation is from the antennae so I have all other wireless features disabled and I would like to use this particular one that I can isolate/control.
If it makes you sick, that's understandable. If you want to do it yourself and not bother with the tech, taking the back off to get to the antenna wire is a pretty easy task. Nine screws and popping a tab or two and the back comes off. In your case, you want to completely remove the wire from the device as even if it's disconnected on one end, the other end may still be able to transmit. The wire snaps in at both ends, so again, it's a simple thing to do.
Alright thanks for the info. I don't have the screw driver so I guess I will have to make a technician do it. I am all the way in Jamaica so it's easier to go to a tech than to ship a small package here. I know about the antenna wire but I am wondering if its the only antennae ( apart from the WiFi, bluetooth etc. that can be disabled ) because I saw on a website a picture of the insides and there are two antenna contacts at the top that connect to an antennae thats on the shell. So is this wire the sole antennae mechanism for the GSM?
Honestly, I don't know.
joeldean said:
Alright thanks for the info. I don't have the screw driver so I guess I will have to make a technician do it. I am all the way in Jamaica so it's easier to go to a tech than to ship a small package here. I know about the antenna wire but I am wondering if its the only antennae ( apart from the WiFi, bluetooth etc. that can be disabled ) because I saw on a website a picture of the insides and there are two antenna contacts at the top that connect to an antennae thats on the shell. So is this wire the sole antennae mechanism for the GSM?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi mate ,
The wire connects the antenna at the bottom to the module where the GSM/EDGE , WIFI , BT, etc chips are , that cable seem to be the only physical connection between the antenna and the respective controlling chips
Check here , steps 13 , 14 and 15
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung+Galaxy+S4+Teardown/13947
@MAX 404: I couldn't remember whether that was the case or not. I had other things on my plate.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@MAX 404: I couldn't remember whether that was the case or not. I had other things on my plate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi mate ,
You cover planty my friend , you are a big help around here :good::good:
So after my capacitive keys died I ordered a new power board with the capacitive keys I opened and replaced the board.
But after that I can't get 3g or H+ signal I can only connect to 2g and 4g signals and I get complaints from the person that I speak that they don't hear me well and my voice sounds like I have 1 bar of signal.
Anyone knows anything about this problem?
I have done full restore, wipe everything, installed cm 12.1 but I have the same problem.
Possibly know a little about this......
Back in my S2 days, I had reason to replace the USB socket board.
Before I did it, I did some research and found that this board was in some way connected to the signal reception side of things.....
I also discovered that there are a number of different versions of this board, and buying the wrong one would result in loss of signal. This all may still apply to the S5.....worth checking out.
Look at your old board and look for some printing on it that may or may not say "rev X.X" (the X's will be numbers) then compare it to the new board......
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
keithross39 said:
Possibly know a little about this......
Back in my S2 days, I had reason to replace the USB socket board.
Before I did it, I did some research and found that this board was in some way connected to the signal reception side of things.....
I also discovered that there are a number of different versions of this board, and buying the wrong one would result in loss of signal. This all may still apply to the S5.....worth checking out.
Look at your old board and look for some printing on it that may or may not say "rev X.X" (the X's will be numbers) then compare it to the new board......
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thx ill give it a try
Like the title says I now have little to no wifi signal unless stood next to the router?
Can anyone help me out am getting really cheesed off with this.
thanks in advance
Checked for loose connectors? Does wifi improve if you remove the cameras?
Was perfectly fine, before I did the camera, checked the conector the little point bit snapped off but not the ful connector so I am still able to lift it up slightly?
Are you referring to the centre pin?
no the little connector on the oppisote side of the bored
located here in the green ring, the whole connector is still attached all tho a little bit on the top has came of no bigger than a half centimeter
Maybe the connector is not making proper contact with the back casing. Maybe add a bit of solder to the gold contact to raise it up a bit to it makes better contact?
Would adding solder not damage it?
Check WiFi Antenna
PhaseCoder said:
Like the title says I now have little to no wifi signal unless stood next to the router?
Can anyone help me out am getting really cheesed off with this.
thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds to me like the device was opened to replace the camera, and it could be something easy to fix. Fix step open the device, and check that suckers WiFi Antenna wire....looks the same as a Laptop WiFi Antenna Wire, except smaller and shorter, it may be disconnected from the logic board connector location, or the wire is broken or damaged.
Adding a but of solder may work as long as you use low-melt solder, a very fine tip iron, and you do not let the solder flow to other parts of the board.
I suppose the alternative would be taking it to a cell shop to see if they can fix it.
I have Samsung i9505l updated to lollipop via OTA after updating All the sensor stopped what does it mean is Samsung killing their devices via ota's i said to my friends that it's hardware (sensor Hub) problem! and he was saying no it's software problem after downgrading to Kit Kat... everything works fine I lost $30 bet on it.! poor Samsung ! so the main question is there anyway to upgrade to lollipop with working sensors?
http://samsung-updates.com/
Hello, can anyone help me? It has happened that I decided to open my Nvidia Shield TV 2017 (16 GB), and it is the recent revision that comes with Wi Fi antenna module, and the green power LED comes on the PCB. The case is that when trying to remove the mini U.FL wi fi connector, this has been detached with the base section that goes on the PCB, and with a fragment of the "track" of the PCB, I have ruined the wi fi a lot and bluetooth now! The signal it picks up on both frequencies is now weak, for this reason I am looking for someone to provide me with excellent quality photos of that connector area, but do not disconnect it! since it is a welding nothing strong and it will not happen to them as it happened to me.
In short, I need to visualize and distinguish which "signal line" and to be able to make small solders with cables in order to re-establish the signal of the internal antenna.
In advance, thanks!
P.S. I have removed these connectors in many devices, from laptops, and even in smartphones, and it is the first time that this type of unfortunate incident has happened to me.
Hi, may I ask why you removed the cable in the first place? I was considering the same, to add a even better antenna. Now reading this I have reconsidered. But knowing Nvidia might have done such a bad soldering job maybe on my unit too isn't very comforting :/ I also can imagine this has a negative effect on signal strength...
Idk if the pics are still of use for you, here are some I took for geforce forum/reddit: https://imgur.com/a/V0CgrMG
Let me know I you need more, maybe closeup of the connector.