Hi,
In our current research, we want to measure power consumption of an I9250 doing various network related tasks. To do this, one of our electronic wizards must connect his instrumentation tools to the battery pinouts. He told me he needed to know the resistance of the two extra pins (those two except + and -)
Anyone who knows this, or has done something similar?
Best wishes,
Morty
So as I understand it those are not used to provide power for the battery. These other pins are used to communicate with the battery (and if it has NFC) use the antenna embedded into the battery. Your engineer doesn't need to do anything with these but connect them straight to the phone.
Out of curiosity is your research going to get published anywhere? I am really interested in those types of numbers
Hi thanks!
We did similar test on the Nokia N900. For this phone, we had to add resistance to the third pin (the additional to + and -). The results are not published, it was part of a master thesis for one of our students.
The experimentation with the nexus is also part of a master thesis, as always we hope it will end with a publication! We can then provide some results.
Well I don't understand why they need to do anything, if they pass these straight through and tap the power lines the battery should work fine (appear transparent).
If that doesn't work then you have two options. The first thing is to buy a replacement battery and take it apart. The second would be to go into your lab and use a scope/meter to measure those lines and see what they do.
Related
Hi all,
As i started servicing all pdas for a couple of monthes (only as a hobby, i fix them for friends and relatives), i came across one BA that gave me some trouble.
i got it to replace its LCD that was broken as it was dropped and thats very simple to replace it, so far so good. now it has two main problems :
1. no sound from speaker (even when in speakerphone mode), but there is sound in the stereo earphones (i plugged to the connector by the sd card slot). - i can only assume that a bluetooth handsfree device it will also work.
2. although the backup battery is fully charged, if i remove the main battery even for a brief second, when turned on, the BA acts as if i made a hard reset.
as for solving the problems :
1. using a digital multimeter, i managed to track the conductivity from the internal speaker through its connector, flat ribbon to the connector which connects to the main pcb - so there is no contact problem from the speaker to the main pcb.
using the help from WIKI, i went to site that has the list of all components and their description - the IC that is responsible for audio amp is a MAXIM's MAX4410 which is a stereo headphone driver. a quick look at its charasteristics and typical configuration and i understood that (assuming this is the IC that drives the internal speaker) the speaker should have one pin which is ground and the other goes to the amplified signal from the IC. neither one of the pins showed it has GND to it. so maybe there is a bad GND line to the connector.
2. regarding the backup battery issue i do not know what makes this problem.
I am sharing this info with you all with two ideas in mind :
1. to resolve my problem and know those devices hardware better.
2. because i am quite a while watching xda-developers and WIKI and i got the feeling that a lot of eforth is given to the software side of all those pdas (which is greate!!! keep going, this work helps lots of people and it shows al thos mega corps they are not the only ones), but the hardware is a bit forgotten and left behind. let me tell you this, there are many VERY simple mini projects i made useing electronics (i am an electronics engineer in my profession) that made my life easy . i am now investigating those instruments hardware as i have several ideas to develope useful accessories to my pda (like an external IR transciver to control IR devices like TV,DVD and to communicate with my laptop, and some other ideas) and i believe we can do the same info sharing as done on software side but on the hardware side.
I will thank any ideas, thoghts or commentsabout this matter. Yol.
I think you should post this again, just in case we missed the other 9 duplicate posts... wouldn't this have made most sense in the development and hacking section, pretty much the only section you didn't post to?
V
@Vj LOL
Fault 1) When I hear someone saying 'maybe it has a bad earth' i think of car mechanics 'wiring' and Ford cars! If you have the data sheet, use a 'scope - fixing it should be a piece of cake (IF you know what you are doing)
Fault 2) These devices usually have tiny 3V Li-ion button batteries somewhere inside - find it, replace it.
BTW - search the internet for a SERVICE MANUAL - you NEVER know your luck!
Andy
Fault one the backup battery is designed to keep memory alive not power the unit! I would expect it to act the way you describe.
Audio check the stereo jack, my guess is you'll find the problem there. It's rather common failure.
I never said the battery backup powered the unit, did I? He said removing the main battery & putting it back in acts like a hard reset indicative of a knackered memory backup battery.
I'm making educated guesses based on 15 years experience as an electronics engineer & also that I have just fixed an Xda Exec with EXACTLY this problem (If I'm reading his post correctly that is).
Andy
There are two hacks I want to do to my Sidekick 4g. First I want to swap the volume buttons and the charging port, cause its kind of a dumb layout and I end up hitting the volume buttons all the time. Also I would like to use docking stations and cant with the charger on the top of the phone. Second I want to add a flash to the camera. I don't know why they didn't include one it makes no sense. Any ideas? If there are any other interesting hacks you want to do or have done tell me about them. I will post pictures as soon as I get things all moved around.
I found a complete teardown of a SK4G on here so I'll use that as a atarting point. My dad knows electronics so he said he will give me a hand. I am currently searching Ebay for a second handset so I'm not tearing apart my daily driver for hacks. I will post all steps I take for everything, but I am still looking for advice from anyone who knows more about the SK4G.
Sent from my SGH-T839 using XDA
I think the flash is going to be really difficult. The flash I think uses a big cap to charge and then discharges it into the flash element. The problem is first getting the synchronization, too soon or too late and it is moot. Tying it to the button might work but you might need to insert a short delay (more electronics and room).
Moving connectors is probably the easiest to do. Really you need to remove the one from the board, solder some connections and run it to the new place. Routing the wire might be challenging because of the limited room but should be possible. The volume is going to be a comparable challenge, the buttons are likely on the board and very small but once you get them off all you have to do is wire them.
Thank you Giritrobbins! I didn't know that cell phones needed the flash cap too, I thought it was just an led. That will slow things down some but that saved me a unneeded headache.
Sent from my SGH-T839 using XDA
why i can not want to stop these hacks.
I'm working on a system for my vehicle which needs a device that has Bluetooth and at least one (preferably a couple) "thing" (GPIO or useless LED or whatever) that I can have an application set and hold to either high or low. The device needs its own battery, so that it can operate without draining the vehicle's battery. What I'm ultimately trying to do, among other things, is to use Blueooth proximity detection to unlock my car - and a bunch of other things while the car's on. Because cell phones (and, to a lesser extent, tablets) already have batteries that will last for days with all the radios shut down, the screen off, apps suspended, and the CPU in a low-power mode, that seems an ideal approach - made better because older phones cost near-nothing on eBay. I don't have to have a visible display, but a working touchscreen would simplify a lot of other things I'd like to do.
But it seems darn near impossible to figure out what device would be be appropriate. Specifically, I haven't been able to find a good way to identify what devices have something like unused / repurposable GPIOs. I don't know if I need to just repurpose an LED, or if there are phones (or tablets) which already have something to interface with. Or if there are newer devices that I can use something like a USB serial port on, or if I just play a "sound" which makes the audio output seem to be "on", or what. The important thing is that the phone/tablet has to be self-contained, as charger power will be disconnected when the vehicle is off - and it'd be best if I could get an extended-use battery for this device which could maximize availability while the vehicle is parked (likely for several days). Since that covers just about every phone, the next most important thing is to figure out how to make it interface with the outside world without the outside world needing to provide any additional power to enable that communication (i.e. I can turn on a transistor, but I can't have something like the daisy bluetooth GPIO devices running as that will use car battery power).
So, I guess I'm asking how people usually interface with the outside world using a hard-wired connection, and what devices to look for (or how to identify those devices) which make that relatively easy. Can someone get me pointed in the right direction? I'm currently just wandering the web trying to find a starting point, and since the odds are good that this forum is going to be a stop somwehere along the path anyway, I figured this'd be a good start.
dannysauer said:
... What I'm ultimately trying to do, among other things, is to use Blueooth proximity detection to unlock my car - and a bunch of other things while the car's on...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What other things? And what do you mean by proximity detection? You want it to unlock your car automatically, as soon as your phone is in range or is it ok if you have to run an app and press "unlock my car" button?
qubas said:
What other things? And what do you mean by proximity detection? You want it to unlock your car automatically, as soon as your phone is in range or is it ok if you have to run an app and press "unlock my car" button?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean "poll bluetooth and unlock when I'm near". If I have to push a button, I may as well use a regular keyless entry fob.
While the car's running, I'd like to be able to run some standard apps, like an mp3 player, Wigle wifi scanner (presuming I find something w/wifi and gps) , and similar standard car pc stuff. That's all easy, though. And the programming to poll bluetooth is not that hard (I'd probably just use llama to start with). The hard part for me is really just how to hard wire a relay or transistor, and get a program to turn it on or off.
In that case you should think about IOIO (google "IOIO for Android"), it gives you a lot of digital I/O and analog input pins.
Hi guys!
I'm starting a company in Brazil similar to Square Trade and Asurion in the US. So, before a user signs up to one of our protection plans, we need to remotely verify whether the device is fully functional. We already have and app that does part of that (the user takes a photo, press some buttons and does some other activities so we can verify the device).
However, there's still some terrain to cover. I was thinking about a stress test that would make the device freeze/reboot when the processor/board is faulty (like these devices do when people try to use heavy apps/games), some network tests (wifi and 3g/4g) and battery tests (Android already reports some stuff like health and temperature but I think these are not reliable). Do you guys know about some way to do that? I searched for an open source benchmark engine to no avail, so the next step was to ask here given you guys are always making awesome software/tweaks.
Any help is appreciated.
Foreigner here, please be kind =)
Hello everyone, good morning, good afternoon and good night!
Recently I have received some orders for laboratory supplies accompanied by a temperature Datalogger that performs the recording and storage of the temperature history for 11 days.
I've been researching the model and it is for single use and disposable (TempTale 4 USB - Dry Ice version by Sensitech)
I also discovered on some foreign websites that although there is software from the manufacturer to "unlock" the device for later reuse, the acquisition is not compensated due to the low value and the existence of other reusable models of the brand itself (Sensitech).
As this model came by surprise in my hands and no one has other uses for it, I decided to disassemble it and analyze its hardware. It has an Atmel controller that in my opinion could be reprogrammed to reset the programming or even unlock it for other uses.
If possible, I would like to count on the help of experts here on the forum for this. I believe I have come to the right place for this!
I leave some internal and external photos of the device for you guys
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kON9AvEiRVNXjbIdCbus7JY8tHV3H36N?usp=sharing
It is worth mentioning that it has an interesting system that when connecting to the computer automatically generates a pdf report with all the data and graphs of the temperature record and another .ttx file that I still don't know what it is. Both are also in the drive folder for you to look at.
Hello there, your thread is kinda old by now but I am working on this myself.
Unfortunately I cannot provide you with the software for Sensitech dataloggers due to it being a bit risky, I do not want to get into legal trouble with Sensitech or getting fired for a hobby project. However even with the software you won't be able to reset one without somehow altering the chip contents. It will give you an error message that the dataloggers are meant for one time use only and cannot be reprogrammed.
The way to reset them is to manually erase the content of the ARM chip on the board, I don't know much about microchip programming but I have gotten it to work myself completely by accident. Probably by measuring each pin with an oscilloscope probe I have somehow corrupted/erased the programming on this chip. After that a red light started blinking and the word SET appeared on screen. After that I was able to reprogram them.
The TTX file is a more detailed database of the temperature logs, from which you can extract CSV files and do some sort of fancy graph displays and all that. The PDF is just for general overview.
You have a different model than the ones I get though. I have found that by shorting the Winbond chip and rebooting the device (shorting the battery connector briefly) it goes into some sort of error state. The screen will blink and every time you press Stop the actual temperature will be displayed on the screen. I do not know if your model has this too.
Is anyone still working on this? I have an interest in discussing repurposing a temp tale and would like to discuss