Database Users

Cigarret lighter adapter & serial data cable for XDA2

Does anybody knows how (or where) can i get a serial and data cable for may XDA2 :?:
I would like to use xda2 together my Garmin GPS using a null modem as i do with my iPaq on the road :!:
Thanks in advance.

cable tastic
I got the serial lead from my local O2 shop £14ish. Its fine apart from all the cables. You have the XDA2 serial, a power lead to power the XDA2 plugs into this, I have the eTrex so this has the power/serial lead. So 2 cables per unit each one about 1.5m long!!!!
Im looking at making up a cable from the XDA2 (modify my current serial lead) so I can have Audio L&R, Mic, Tx/Rx serial, switch for 'in car', Power, ground. This will be on one cable to a brakeout box with inbuilt PSU, D9 connector and Cigar socket for the eTrex, socket for a link lead to the car stereo and a hands free mic.

I am up for helping with that project if you need any, The only bit I don’t know how to do would be the Audio L+r for the Car Stereo,
If you can let me know how these connect to the Stereo (as in what connector is required and the pinouts) I will try this week and make up a lead.
As for the Mic, No Proplem (This is pretty straight forward)
Tx/Rx serial, (This is pretty straight forward
Switch for 'in car', (This is pretty straight forward
Power, No Proplem (already know how to sort)
Ground. No Problem

just got my usb + cigar lighter addapter from ebay m8
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2792400395&category=58543
read on here its good for refferance

Re: cable tastic
Great!
You have an excelent idea! If it is possible and you get it please, let me know.
My issue is very simple in comparisson yours.
(Sorry about my poor english, ok!)
TDIPower said:
I got the serial lead from my local O2 shop £14ish. Its fine apart from all the cables. You have the XDA2 serial, a power lead to power the XDA2 plugs into this, I have the eTrex so this has the power/serial lead. So 2 cables per unit each one about 1.5m long!!!!
Im looking at making up a cable from the XDA2 (modify my current serial lead) so I can have Audio L&R, Mic, Tx/Rx serial, switch for 'in car', Power, ground. This will be on one cable to a brakeout box with inbuilt PSU, D9 connector and Cigar socket for the eTrex, socket for a link lead to the car stereo and a hands free mic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Try this
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=108910&asource=106055
I bought this and replaced the 5pin P/S2 type connector with a 9 pin din, pin outs are straight forward. This however, will not power the GPS.
I already had a lead for this.
Jim Ill

It would be possible that does it works with XDA2 ?
I have a P/S2 to RSR232 adapter maybe it will be fitted in this cable, right?

I know it doesn’t look right straight way because it says its for the XDA, However, I am currently using it to connect to my GPS so I know it works.
You may wish to look for something more local to where you are?
It is not a true P/S 2 it is a 5 pin din of which I don’t remember what the pin out are all I know is that I cut the lead off and soldered a a 9 pin D type (a serial connector) after working out what the TX RX and Common were
pin 2 (rxd)
Pin 3 (txd)
Pin 5 = Grd
All other pins not used.
Hope this helps

The car charger cable comes with 21 pins for XDA? Would be possible to transform this cable in a "Y" cable as I wish?
Here, nobody knows nothing about XDA2 :!:

Sorry let me make this clear,
I use the expansys cable to connect my XDA2 to a GPS Etrex. The cable has 3 part to it, 1/ car charger
2/ The 21 Connector to the XDA2
3/ It comes with a 5pin din which can be change to a 9 pin
Is this what you want? Or are you looking just for a serial cable?

It is exactly what I want.
But, I also would use the car charger to make it, because I already have a car charger cable.
Otherwise, I would have to pay GBP 47.88 including 27.50 for shippment :!: .

In car box
The box Im looking at doing will have a 3.5mm stereo socket for the L/R Audio and the Mic. My car stereo has a 3.5mm input for MD player so thats easy. I just want to be sure which way the in car feed needs to be connected to +v or 0v (is it 6v or 12v to trigger) Does the phone RX audio come out of the L/R too. I would have an even better unit if the eTrex supplied the bare end cable with power core too as I would put the PSU for it in the box with the XDA PSU.
I figure if the XDA is capable of audio, hands free phone etc you might as well make it available if you are going to make a lead.
Ill post when I get chance to make it.
Sorry to jump your thread abit.

Ok! No problem.
Why dont you use the XDA audio output jack to connect your car stereo?
For the mic you can also use XDA's mic as hands free.

TDIPower,
the first thing you could do is get L+R audio working now without the breakout box. What you could do is use the XDA's headset connector, plug it into your XDA, and change the earphones and put them into the type of connector that goes into you car stereo! You then in effect have a in car kit. The Mic on the headset should work with easy
I am unsure what you mean about the trigger and +6 +12v can you explain.

If you are still interested to purchase the cable, then visit this link: http://shop.brando.com.hk/o2xda.php
Price $22 + $3 for shipping
Or even a better solution is to purchase the Y cable serial+USB and use the usb part to charge from the cigarrette lighter but you have to purchsae the cigarrette lighter adapter from the same site.
All will be at $38 with shipping charges.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

That´s it. Thanks a lot kufi :wink:
kufi said:
If you are still interested to purchase the cable, then visit this link: http://shop.brando.com.hk/o2xda.php
Price $22 + $3 for shipping
Or even a better solution is to purchase the Y cable serial+USB and use the usb part to charge from the cigarrette lighter but you have to purchsae the cigarrette lighter adapter from the same site.
All will be at $38 with shipping charges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

aperali sorry I coundnt be more helpful

Jim Ill
I would like to thank you and everybody who try to help me. This forum is cool!
I´m planning to stay in this forum for a long time, and when of you comes to Rio de Janeiro (during the Carnaval :wink: ) let me show you the best places we have here!
Thanks for everybody and you.
Alex

normal audio socket
I know I can use the normal headset connector but Im trying to reduce the number of cables to plug in/have hanging all over the dash.

Sorry, Ok I have been thinking about the connectors there other ways of doing it, lets talk on [email protected] (msn)

How to make your own Motorola "Factory Cable"

Over in this post Cellzealot opined that I might be willing to share the pinout of the "factory cable" clone that I worked up. I absolutely am, but needed to find several hours of free time to do the writeup, images, etc.
The other night I set aside the time and did the writeup. If you would like to make your own cable, you can read the writeup here.
To oversimplify it, here is the map:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The map is simple enough. The main problem (as detailed in the writeup I linked to above) is that since pin 4 is normally unused in a Mini/Micro B connector, there is no wire connected to it (to tie to), and in the case of the Mini B that I surgically dissected, the actual pin for pin 4 was nipped off at the back of the connector as well.
This doesn't preclude you from making a cable as you can always order brand new connectors and solder them up any way you like.
I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have in this topic.

great guide
Thanks for linking this to us! This would be tremendously useful to many on this forum. My question is, since the docks Motorola sells basically do the same thing, could the process be applied like callen81 did to make USB host functionality? It seems like the same process is used, albeit simpler.

Or just buy a USB 3.0 cable!

ya i picked up like three for like 1.50 each. monoprice.com has alot of cables for super cheap, good quality too
edit, i also got the 10 footers so i dont have to be bounded to the 4 footer that comes with it

Moved to proper forum.

Guys, a factory cable is not like the micro USB cables you buy, nor the standard "OTG" micro usb cables/adapters to become USB host.
Notice that PIN4 is tied to POWER, the +5V on PIN1, not to ground on PIN5 as in OTG cables (or left floating like on most mini/micro cables.)
This cable is essentially for being able to nvflash the phone, although perhaps it has other uses I am unaware of.

eval- said:
Guys, a factory cable is not like the micro USB cables you buy, nor the standard "OTG" micro usb cables/adapters to become USB host.
Notice that PIN4 is tied to POWER, the +5V on PIN1, not to ground on PIN5 as in OTG cables (or left floating like on most mini/micro cables.)
This cable is essentially for being able to nvflash the phone, although perhaps it has other uses I am unaware of.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It can also be used to charge the phone while flashing SBF.
Sent from my MB860 using XDA App

eval- said:
Guys, a factory cable is not like the micro USB cables you buy, nor the standard "OTG" micro usb cables/adapters to become USB host.
Notice that PIN4 is tied to POWER, the +5V on PIN1, not to ground on PIN5 as in OTG cables (or left floating like on most mini/micro cables.)
This cable is essentially for being able to nvflash the phone, although perhaps it has other uses I am unaware of.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
isn't it also possible to use a usb keyboard with this method given that you have a usb powering hub in the middle?

The most useful thing to do at this point would be linking places that sell easily modified cables / adapters. As he said 99% of cables you find will not have the 5th wire connected or soldered on to the connector. Even if I had a cable or source of cables that had an easily solderable 5th pin this cable would be decently cheap to make. Most of the space cables I've hacked apart just have 4 solder points and a 'dummy' pin #4 (what, to look cool?) sigh.

bearsfan172 said:
It can also be used to charge the phone while flashing SBF.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't say for the Atrix, but for every other phone I've used the cable on, while it will power the phone while flashing, it will not charge the phone while flashing.

eval- said:
Guys, a factory cable is not like the micro USB cables you buy, nor the standard "OTG" micro usb cables/adapters to become USB host.
Notice that PIN4 is tied to POWER, the +5V on PIN1, not to ground on PIN5 as in OTG cables (or left floating like on most mini/micro cables.)
They do indeed have many uses
This cable is essentially for being able to nvflash the phone, although perhaps it has other uses I am unaware of.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They do indeed have many other uses besides the nvflash interface which is strictly for Tegra based devices. They not only power the device without battery, but autoload the Motorola networking driver and other interfaces for diagnostic mode NV access with both Motorola and Qualcomm service ware as well as flash tools like RSD Lite.
The device is always initialized properly and identified by the applications for various operations.
Similar powered cables have been used for all P2K generation Motorola devices for many years in various configurations. The real factory cables are made with a Mini USB B end and come with an adapter so they are compatible across a much wider range of older devices.
We hope very much that getting this info out will generate a lot of outflow for the many ways to apply the unique properties of these cables for newer devices.

In another topic Kholk had an idea that does away with the "missing pin 4 on the micro" problem. You can sacrifice a Motorola Mini-to-Micro USB adapter (SKN6252) which is wired for all 5 pins. This makes it a heck of a lot easier for the average Joe to make one and avoid the expense of buying a custom-made cable.
For most folks that would try this, that tip is all they need to proceed. If you want more detail, I did a step by step here.
If you make one up, post up and let me know how it went.
Enjoy!

MotoCache1 said:
In another topic Kholk had an idea that does away with the "missing pin 4 on the micro" problem. You can sacrifice a Motorola Mini-to-Micro USB adapter (SKN6252) which is wired for all 5 pins. This makes it a heck of a lot easier for the average Joe to make one and avoid the expense of buying a custom-made cable.
For most folks that would try this, that tip is all they need to proceed. If you want more detail, I did a step by step here.
If you make one up, post up and let me know how it went.
Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm working on making my own, just to see if it'll work. I think it's going to turn out more frankenstein-y than yours, however.

PixoNova said:
I'm working on making my own, just to see if it'll work. I think it's going to turn out more frankenstein-y than yours, however.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. I'd love to see it when you're done (if you wouldn't mind posting a pic). As long as you get the pinout right, it will work. Your attempt can't possibly be worse than my initial prototype was. If you have an SKN6252 lying around, you could actually make a pretty respectable looking cable.

Where can you buy one of these if your not good at soldering??

Make a friend who is good at soldering.

Does anyone know why Moto is allowed to call their connector USB when they don't comply to USB.ORG's standards and do things their own way?

cellzealot said:
They do indeed have many other uses besides the nvflash interface which is strictly for Tegra based devices. They not only power the device without battery, but autoload the Motorola networking driver and other interfaces for diagnostic mode NV access with both Motorola and Qualcomm service ware as well as flash tools like RSD Lite.
The device is always initialized properly and identified by the applications for various operations.
Similar powered cables have been used for all P2K generation Motorola devices for many years in various configurations. The real factory cables are made with a Mini USB B end and come with an adapter so they are compatible across a much wider range of older devices.
We hope very much that getting this info out will generate a lot of outflow for the many ways to apply the unique properties of these cables for newer devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Moto has been using nonstandard USB cables since they came out, many of which were dumb devices. The reasoning that they needed to be different so that they can do X Y or Z is bull. They want to lock you into Moto cables. No one has ever shown a logical reason for being different. You can flash phones with regular USB cables so the logic for a different format holds no validity.

Does this mean we could make one of these cables and have the phone "think" its either docked in the car or in the HD dock? I assume for the HD dock you might need added power but why cant I make a USB cable, plug it into my phone and hook up a USB hub to it like the dock?
not to hi-jack but it would be interesting to see if anyone has made their own docks, somehow the 3.5mm audio is integrated into the dock and is played through the usb cable...

Using the factory cable, Not insert the battery, display SVF: 105:1:2
Failed to boot 0x1000, infinite reboot

Samsung Galaxy Tab 30 Pin Dock Connector Pinout

not sure if its been posted so here you go
Samsung Galaxy Tab 30 Pin Dock Connector Pinout
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Here's the pinout configuration of theSamsung Galaxy Tab from left to right solder pins of the dock connector.
Image courtesy of Droidangel.com
This is the technical info of Samsung Galaxy Tab Pinouts for digital and analog I/O on the 30 pin dock connector.
1 Gnd P
2 Gnd P
3 USB_DP_CON I/O
4 USB_DM_CON I/O
5 IF_CON_SENSE I
6 V_ACCESSORY_5.0V P
7 V_BUS_1 P
8 V_BUS_1 P
9 VOUT_CHARGER P
10 VOUT_CHARGER P
11 no connection
12 no connection
13 ACCESSORY_ID / USB_ID I
14 ACCESSORY_INT I
15 Gnd P
16 Gnd P
17 MHL_DP I/O
18 MHL_DM I/O
19 MHL_ID I
20 IF_RXD I
21 IF_TXD O
22 no connection?
23 AP_TV_OUT O
24 REMOTE_SENSE I
25 no connection
26 no connection
27 EAR_L_CRADLE O
28 EAR_R_CRADLE O
29 3.5_INT_TEST I
30 Gnd P

Does this mean it's possible that we'll see unofficial 3rd party adapters and accessories?

that appears to be a 7" galaxy tab?
is the pinout the same on the 10.1s?

GT-P1000 & GT-P7500 resistor values/resistor list
Hey guys.
I can't not be the only one some need Resistor values for the Galaxy Tab.
Like this for i9000 : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=820275
plz help me with the resistor list for the Galaxy Tab (P1000 & P7500)
I know i have to use Pin 13 (USB ID) + GND Pin 15.
But the list with resistor values will be so ****in nice.
My Resistor List:
20K ohm - USB Host
7.5K ohm - Car Dock (Finde from a car dock without sound, only power)

yes they are the same
I bought a galaxy tab 7" usb connector to charge my galaxy tab 10.1 and it works
Also its able to connect to kies with it so they are the same

In order to use pin 27, 28 & 30 to get audio out, I am assuming you need to strap a resistor somewhere to get the tablet to output audio. Can some one let me know where and what value? I built an audio cable but alas no audio output

just because the charging cable is the same, does not mean the pin out is the same. the galaxy tab 7" composite cable doesn't work on the 10" tab.
---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 AM ----------
drubrew said:
In order to use pin 27, 28 & 30 to get audio out, I am assuming you need to strap a resistor somewhere to get the tablet to output audio. Can some one let me know where and what value? I built an audio cable but alas no audio output
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
here's a photo of the 30pin taken apart from the composite cable i just mentioned. let me know if you can't make out any of the resistor bands.

As the pic on is for a GT 7", i wonder if anyone has managed to get a gt 7" in download mode with making a "jig" like the one you can make for i9000?

30-pin Connector Adapter DIY Problem
I already own a standard MHL adapter cable with micro-USB plug and HDMI output, which works for various devices such as the Samsung Galaxy Note, S2, HTC Sensation, Flyer, etc. This is a good investment because the adapter is a standard one.
I don't want to buy another MHL adapter with proprietary 30-pin plug for my new Galaxy Tab. The 30-pin version MHL for tab is unreasonably much more expensive and I can't find a third party substitute at this moment.
Thus I am trying to make a connector adapter so that I can use my existing MHL adapter. Unfortunately, following the pinout diagram shown above, I was unable to make it work. I am sure that I connected the MHL_DP, MHL_DM correctly. The problem probably lies on the MHL_ID. I have tried connecting the MHL_ID to ground but it didn't work. I wonder if anyone can give me some hints? Should I add some resistors? Where can I find more information?
The attached picture shows my DIY design (not working at this moment)

@aeioo: Sorry I'm of no help, but please if you finally get it working, please, please, please, let me know.
I own a Galaxy Nexus and a Tab 7.7 I don't have the MHL adapter yet because I can't decide for which device do I want it.
What you are trying would be the perfect solution for me.
Regards

aeioo said:
The problem probably lies on the MHL_ID. I have tried connecting the MHL_ID to ground but it didn't work. I wonder if anyone can give me some hints? Should I add some resistors? Where can I find more information?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have seen a block diagram in page 11 of this datasheet You can see there that the MicroUSB pin 4 is connected to the MHL Proccessor, so may be that you have to connect MHL_ID to pin 4 in the MicroUSB connector.

Just a thought... Any idea if this would hit it off?
Looking at the different diagrams, and similarities between the 10.1 and 7 tab-
Thrown together a power cable with USB host, and audio/video out. Bit old school composite video but should be able to load videos from USB drive, play out to projector/TV, and NOT GO FLAT!
Not tested as waiting for the 30pin connector and some resistors, as i can imagine having to find the correct mode on pin13 will be difficult. Started out in host and powered mode here and will improve/update when i get the parts. Anyone managed to get anything similar working?
Diagram link - www . supportituk.co.uk/#/images/4562009987

Would it be possible to get the HDMI out connector working without an external power source? Or is a fix available via software?
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

yincrash said:
just because the charging cable is the same, does not mean the pin out is the same. the galaxy tab 7" composite cable doesn't work on the 10" tab.
---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 AM ----------
here's a photo of the 30pin taken apart from the composite cable i just mentioned. let me know if you can't make out any of the resistor bands.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How to disasemble conector?
Thanks

Hi,
sorry if it was mentioned before, but
is it possible to use HDMI, USB OTG, charging, and audio out at the same time with the 10.1 Tab or 10.1 Note?
ed.:
And is it not possible to have USB OTG and USB out at the same time ?
ed.2: (eg. for being connected to pc and usb-stick at the same time)
I think it could really have the power of a netbook, but the connectors...
Kind Regards
Splotz

OTG for Samsung Galaxy Tab P1000
Hello, what I'm looking is enable the OTG function For Samsung Galaxy Tab GT-P1000L.
The only thing I found was a video where this function is achieved activate, but need an external power, and update to version CyanogenMod 9 from HumberOS, for enable the usb-host function.
Is there any way to do this but without the need for external power supply?
And sorry if my english is bad.

Pin 6 Current ability
Does anyone know how much current can be drawn from pin 6 of the 30 pin connector?
Thanks for any info
Matt

reply
hey guys you can check this site out http://techno-fix.com/ . i found my pinout searches there. there are very usefull things

What is it exactly that tells the tablet there is an official charger connected?

is it possible to use the connector to wake up the tab? all of my physical buttons are dead so right now the only way to wake up my tab is by pluging it to any power source.

[Q] Is it possible to have 64gb+ of storage while charging?

Hi All,
I've been considering doing an Android head unit for a long time. There's only two things that have stopped me. The first is audio quality, which I have gotten over since I have a great sound system and the amps should sort quality out. The other is storage. My 64 gb ipod is completely full and I actually enjoy all of it, plus a large variety.
Essentially, is there a way of getting 64gb of external storage on my 16gb Nexus 7, while it is still being charged by my car?
And for anyone who has tried it, will I notice a big sound decay going from iPod - Alpine head unit down to a 3.5mm - RCA connector?
Thanks!

See this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1934722
Currently I'm running my N7, a y-splitting USB cable (one end for charging, the other end for USB peripherals), a USB hub, a flash drive plugged into the hub, and a USB audio DAC plugged into the hub. The USB DAC solves all low-quality sound issues! There have been people who don't enjoy the audio quality coming from the 3.5mm stereo jack.
EDIT: seems like there are reports of USB flash drive non-functionality in 4.2. I'm still on 4.1.2.

MetalMan2 said:
See this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1934722
Currently I'm running my N7, a y-splitting USB cable (one end for charging, the other end for USB peripherals), a USB hub, a flash drive plugged into the hub, and a USB audio DAC plugged into the hub. The USB DAC solves all low-quality sound issues! There have been people who don't enjoy the audio quality coming from the 3.5mm stereo jack.
EDIT: seems like there are reports of USB flash drive non-functionality in 4.2. I'm still on 4.1.2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was exactly what I needed to hear, thanks! This is the first I've heard of using a DAC though. Could you link me to the one you use? From what I gather, this takes the usb audio and converts it to an analogue signal, yes? Meaning I can connect RCA directly into it?
edit: and how do you tell the tablet to push audio out through the usb cable instead of the headphone jack?

MetalMan2 said:
See this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1934722
Currently I'm running my N7, a y-splitting USB cable (one end for charging, the other end for USB peripherals), a USB hub, a flash drive plugged into the hub, and a USB audio DAC plugged into the hub. The USB DAC solves all low-quality sound issues! There have been people who don't enjoy the audio quality coming from the 3.5mm stereo jack.
EDIT: seems like there are reports of USB flash drive non-functionality in 4.2. I'm still on 4.1.2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you see any issues here? My blueprints aren't of the highest quality
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

DallasJones said:
That was exactly what I needed to hear, thanks! This is the first I've heard of using a DAC though. Could you link me to the one you use? From what I gather, this takes the usb audio and converts it to an analogue signal, yes? Meaning I can connect RCA directly into it?
edit: and how do you tell the tablet to push audio out through the usb cable instead of the headphone jack?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The DAC I use is a Behringer UCA222 but it seems many DACs will work. I picked this one because of price point and good reviews (and it works great for me).
And yes, a USB DAC takes in a digital signal through USB and converts to analog output, (depending on the unit it may be RCA and/or 3.5mm stereo jack).
For USB DAC to work you first need a kernel which supports OTG and USB audio. If you also want to charge at the same time, you need a kernel which supports OTG + charging + USB audio. I only know of one which effectively does this. Here is the latest version of it:
http://rootzwiki.com/topic/30615-ca...mode-simultaneously/page__st__90#entry1024445
NOTE: Android will auto-switch to USB audio after a reboot. If you unplug USB from the Nexus 7 with the DAC connected you might not be able to get any audio (USB or 3.5mm stereo) until after a reboot.
There is also the faux123 kernel which supports USB audio and OTG + charging with a toggle (run through a script). However, this toggle reverts back to regular OTG (no charging) after a reboot. So that means that you cannot [currently] use this kernel for USB OTG + charging + USB audio... see my post on that thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=33940904#post33940904
---------- Post added at 09:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:01 AM ----------
DallasJones said:
Can you see any issues here? My blueprints aren't of the highest quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is almost right. Two things: 1) You'll need a 2amp charger. 2) The USB DAC only uses one connection to the USB hub (single USB-A plug). Check this out for a more appropriate USB cable solution:
http://www.ida-and-pingala.com/imag...-inch/DIY-OTG-Adapter-&-DIY-OTG-Y-Adapter.gif
There is a cable sold on eBay which does this properly:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=121008911563
For my car installation I couldn't fit a cable like that, as I needed one with a right-angle micro USB plug where it attaches to the Nexus 7. So I bought a regular OTG cable with right-angle micro USB plug, and spliced in my own USB plug for charging similar to the image I posted above.

This is excellent, thank you. And I understand that it's probably impossible, but my head unit currently has 6 outputs. 4 for speakers, and 2 for my sub/mono amp. Is there a way to do all of this properly with an Android setup?

DallasJones said:
This is excellent, thank you. And I understand that it's probably impossible, but my head unit currently has 6 outputs. 4 for speakers, and 2 for my sub/mono amp. Is there a way to do all of this properly with an Android setup?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have speaker wire coming straight out of your head unit, it sounds like you'll probably need to invest in some more equipment. I currently have 2 amps, 1 driving my speakers + tweets and 1 driving the sub.
I plan to go from the DAC to a 2 way preamp that will feed both my amps.
I'm still entertaining an idea that avoids the USB DAC and tries to HDMI -> SPDIF -> DAC.

brutog said:
If you have speaker wire coming straight out of your head unit, it sounds like you'll probably need to invest in some more equipment. I currently have 2 amps, 1 driving my speakers + tweets and 1 driving the sub.
I plan to go from the DAC to a 2 way preamp that will feed both my amps.
I'm still entertaining an idea that avoids the USB DAC and tries to HDMI -> SPDIF -> DAC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm thinking this is all beyond me and I should just be happy with what I have... Thanks guys.

UART Access on Sprint Optimus G

Hi,
I'm making this thread because i have seen alot of bricks for this phone including my own. What seems to be most annoying is, my phone boots, shows LG Logo splash and after that completely black screen whereas flashing the Mako (Nexus4) Rom via LGNPST works, it boots without any issues. So the idea is to see the startup log and identify whats been causing the problem in actual.
The UART pads on this phone are completely not made to be accessible by normal means and below is an attached pic of the same
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
As you can see, the molex is just barely a cm long and contains 15pads on each side. The problem is however, m not very much familiar with UART/Serial stuff. I have hooked up a serial connection with the pogoplug sometimes back and all m aware of is basic programs used and Profilic USB-Serial converter (Nokia CA-42 Data cable in mycase). Right now i'm having a USB-RSR232(Com Port) converter at my place and i'm unable to get any outputs to putty/terminal. Any info regarding this will be hugely appreciated.

I know nothing about the specifics of this phone,
but be aware that many UART interfaces are not at 5V levels but at 3.3V, 2V or lower.
What does a voltmeter say on the TXD pin?
I got my Nook's kernel console UART working using a home-brew/cheesy RS-232 converter.
I don't even remember what the levels are, but it works fine.

Thanks for the reply, i will to gather the readings later today. One more question, the current Signal converter m having right now i.e, USB-RS232 will work or do i need to get anything else?

If I read that correctly, you only have a USB to RS-232 converter?
Regular RS-232 swings at least + and - 5V and will blow things out.
A "data cable" usually uses "TTL level" which swings between ground and some fraction of +5V, maybe 3.5V, 2.8 being the nominal threshold.
I've got one for a GPS puck that uses a Prolific chip.
I've used that as a debugger hookup for an ATMega32u4 which runs on 5V.
Nowadays I have a couple of transistors on a board for going from my Nook to a regular PC RS-232 input.

Below readings were taken with battery and USB cable connected.
TX- 0.03v ~ 1.65v
RX- 0.03v ~1.65v
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

i'm having a Profilic USB-Serial converter which is having a USB type B connector and a com port connector on each sides. I'm only connecting the RX and TX wires on the phone's board to gain direct access to UART rather than using USB type data cable. Phone is powered by USB and battery.

If you want a pre-fab solution you can use a Bus Pirate:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate
That will handle low voltage.
The thing is, even at 115.2 kbaud, your signal is so low speed that you don't have to get that serious.
When you are talking about the USB connected, do you mean the phone's USB adapter?
Those TXD & RXD readings were measured with nothing connected?

funkym0nk3y said:
I'm only connecting the RX and TX wires on the phone's board to gain direct access to UART rather than using USB type data cable. Phone is powered by USB and battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should connect ground of the phone with ground of your serial-converter/PC.

Ground is connected from the PC, i have tried with connecting ground from riff box, no help.

Renate NST said:
If you want a pre-fab solution you can use a Bus Pirate:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate
That will handle low voltage.
The thing is, even at 115.2 kbaud, your signal is so low speed that you don't have to get that serious.
When you are talking about the USB connected, do you mean the phone's USB adapter?
Those TXD & RXD readings were measured with nothing connected?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RXD and TXD readings were taken with both USB cable from PC and battery connected.

btw how did you find/identify the UART-pins and why are sure that you have the correct pins?
I'm very interested in this process because I have an Xiaomi MI2 with nearly the same hardware.

i located them using the service manual so m indeed sure they are correct.

M having this converter
and i guess that is perfect for serial output, but the thing is m still unable to get any outputs from the phone, i'm attaching the svc manual for the same incase some1 is willing to help out.
http://d-h.st/agQ
The UART is accessible via 3.5mm earphone jack in Nexus 4 and not in any of the og variants.

Well, your adapter is fine and dandy, but I don't see any photos of a level shifter.
If you connect some of the DB9 pins on that adapter to something inside your cell phone you are going to blow something up.
See this post for a photo of my setup: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=35328483&postcount=11

Hey, thanks for the reply, m not connecting the pin9. M just connecting the pin2 and pin3 on rx and tx pads of my phone,below is a pic of my current setup.

That last photo does not look like the first photo.
I'm not talking about pin #9, I am talking about the 9-pin connector.
Yes, you should be using pins #2, #3 & #5 but don't connect them directly to your phone!
What comes out of the 9-pin connector is higher voltage that will blow out the circuits on your phone.
You measured it yourself, the phone works on levels less than 2 volts.
Now measure what is coming out of the 9 pin connector.
Scary, eh?
You need a level shifter.
Besides the voltages being different, the polarity is different.

I guess this should be fine ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-JY-MCU-...157?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aebfc73f5

funkym0nk3y said:
I guess this should be fine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that is a [5V logic level] <=> [3.3V logic level] converter.
What's coming out of the 9-pin connector is [RS-232 level].
What your phone wants apparently is [2.5V logic level]
So what you need is a [2.5V logic level] <=> [RS-232 level] converter that inverts.
Here, in summary are the logic standards:
Code:
Standard Zero One
---------- ---- -----
RS-232 5.0V -5.0V (notice that this signal goes [b]minus[/b])
Cheesy 5.0V 0.0V (we're cheesy and don't have a minus supply)
5V logic 0.0V 5.0V
3.3V logic 0.0V 3.3V
2.5V logic 0.0V 2.5V
If you have a "USB data cable" that uses "TTL levels" [5V logic level]
then all you would need would be a [5V logic level] <=> [2.5V logic level] converter.
If you want to stick with your 9-pin adapter you will have to have something that converts from/to [RS-232 level].
If you were building this thing seriously, you would use a MAX232 chip or something that would convert from/to [5V level].
If you were going to be cheesy, you can drive your 9-pin connector with [Cheesy level].
This is logic which does not meet the spec for [RS-232] level but is "good enough" to work.
I mean, what is it that you want out of this? 90% is to get a log out while booting.
Then you only have to do one side of the deal, a [2.5V level] => [Cheesy level] that inverts.
Enough for now...

Reading this thread, I'd be surprised if you have not already blown-up something in your phone. Randomly connecting HW to the inside of your phone without knowing the difference of +/- 15V RS-232 levels and 1.8V CMOS logic is a sure killer!
But if its still working...here are a few comments:
1. We'd need to see the entire PCB, to help you identify the proper UART ports.
2. If it's based on Qualcomm, and anything similar to their reference design, you probably don't even need to go inside to get debug output. You might be able to get it via a modified micro-USB jig...
3. You say you have schematics, why don't you post that instead?
4. Get yourself a proper serial cable, ASAP. (You will for sure find other occasions where it is useful.) I always preach for the FTDI products...
5. The port you show, look like a JTAG port...or is it a strip-connector?
6. Never, ever, solder directly to your PCB, use connectors!

Nothing is damaged, i already measured the voltage coming out from rx and tx of the converter which i connected with the phone, however i was not aware that i might need to use a level shifter and m sure that might be the deal breaker. Anyway, i got my phone running after 3weeks and would like to use it normally for sometime now, i will be doing the this again once i get the proper setup at my place. Also the UART ports are correct as they are obtained by the service manual.
I have posted the service manual in the thread to avoid all the confusions already. Finding the receptacles is not easy for me as i'm unable to find them locally or online, samsung receptacles are easily available here in my country but they aren't seems suitable for this molex thats the only reason i did soldering on the molex legs itself.. Yes you are correct, the port which is posted is a jtag port and the wires connected are coming from my jtagbox.