Hello everyone, my hd2 after a fall the screen has turned white but the phone seems to work because 'receives calls.
I tried to put it into bootloader but it always remains white.
With the replacement of Dispay you think I can solve the problem?
Thanks to all
the white screen usually means that the ..screen is not working at all. What you see are the led's that make up the backlight. The LCD panel is not polarizing this light in any way. This is because either the motherboard doesn't supply the proper signals or the display unit (LCM) is not able to process them.
Both this scenarios can happen when you drop the phone. Simply put, you may change the display and still have this problem (if it is motherboard related). At motherboard level, since the qualcomm snapdragon chip is the one that also does video processing, a failure in displaying something on the screen could mean that the chip itself either got damaged or some of it's soldering points to the PCB were broken. This is a end-game scenario.
What you really need to do, is to check out the board with another display in either a service center or whatever place you can borrow one before you actually buy it.
Thank you for your answer, but try a screen before you replace it is impossible for me, I'm forced to buy it, ****!
It would be a risk to heat the solder joints with a micro gas lamp as for the chipset of some laptops?
Or is there another system?
Thank you
Orx
Sell your phone and by a new use one... by the time you figure out what's wrong, you put in just as much as it would be to by a new use one
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App
solved
before selling the cell I had to understand the problem!
I solved the problem, was the logic board connector did not close the flat cable of the display. All this caused by bad positioning of the protective mylar
Thanks to all
Related
Hello
I have managed to come to the conclusion that the original cause for the d-pad failures is NOT the loose connector as described before. this connector is in fact surprisingly sturdy.
the problem lies with the little black IC on the keypad membrane.
i am taking my hermes tomorrow to my friends' phone repair shop and he is going to heat the IC up for me and allow it to reseat.
i shall report back tomorrow.
------------------------
just in case your wondering, i came to this conclusion by purposefully 'un seating' that IC and lo and behold, intermittent white screen and d-pad failures. however if i applied pressure to the IC it allowed it to make contact and it worked again, let go and white again.
many thanks
It will be interesting to hear the results on this BUT -
I'm not certain I agree with your methodology here though. I am not surprised that deliberately un-seating the IC causes a white screen! In all probability removal of any number of components will cause a white screen! AND of course heat gunning it again to re-establish it's connections will make it work again!
Unfortunately this does not prove to me at least that the IC is the problem for most people. If I remove a capacitor from my TV and the picture goes, I cannot conclude that everyones picture problems are related to that capacitor. The D'pad connection though it may appear sturdy has a set of very fine connections and it only takes one to be fractionally bent or oxidised for you to get the whitescreen or indeed a poor connection of any component or connection.
However the IC was reported on in the loooong white screen thread where some folk found that placing padding on the IC surface or squeezing it would correct the white screen and thereby concluded that it was an IC connection fault.
Of course the problem is IMHO that there are several possible causes and any individual person can have one or a combination of things causing the white screen. So far we have as possible causes:
D/Pad connector (must be seated firmly and FLAT but neither over tightened nor too loose. The pins may also get slighly bent or oxidised so cleaning them or fractionaly bending them may work
The D/Pad IC may have poor contacts.
The LCD Flex cable may have cracks (but less likely in my view)
Some have reported capacitor faults (possibly poor connections or degradation with heating or current draw) on both D/Pad and M/board. These faults may be related to the whitescreen only appearing after 10 or so minutes of use and recovery after switching off for a while.
Heating up - in some cases the whitescreen only appears when the phone is warm/hot. This may be caused by expansion of the multi-layered board causing poor contacts / or possibly components not performing correctly due to heat or current draw.
Often some of these whitescreens can be made to disappear by putting pressure on certain components / connections or even in some cases by squeezing the phone casing near the D'pad area. So all in all it is likely to be poor contact somewhere, it's just that it can be in several possible locations - including but not exclusively the D-Pad IC.
Mike
first of all, can i just say what an honour it is to have you comment on one of my threads!
second of all, i am only trying this as a last resort to revive my hermes before i jump ship to the raphael/diamond. or unless i decided to buy a new keypad PCB for it in the hope it will fix it!
i shall report back as soon as ive been down to the shop
many thanks
hi there
i had the white screen initially and although intermittent was useable, then, progressively got worse. countless reseats of the cable, time and time again, including put 'foam' in the places indicated then i did indeed notice in that post about the ic
so, i decided to experiment with the IC. first two layers of paper on top, made some difference in that i had to apply less pressure to get it to work, and then i though, id heat it up slightly using a hairdryer (only thing i had to hand!) and a nozzle made out of a drinks can and just pry it up gently. and indeed the white screen was permanent although the phone otherwise was functioning.
so, i'm taking it down to my mates tomorrow or as soon as i get a chance and he's gna have a go at reseating it using his fancy hot air gun rework thingumajig
i would definetly go for the raphael! for the sole reason that it has a VGA screen! (im an ebook nut!) and it looks beautiful!lol
will keep this post updated
i have to agree with mike on this ,there are many problems that can cause the white screen problem. But i am betting that heat is the major culprit,wether it is the IC you mention ,is another discussion, unless of course your friends attempt at reseating the IC cures the problem ,once and for all. Good luck anyway. I am keen to find out if it was successful or not
Hi there
well, he had a look at it under some fancy microscope and confirmed the IC was not sitting 'true' meaning not 100% level, he also used some little jig he had which he sat the board in and it confirmed it wasnt level
so, he heated it, and allowed it to reseat and we tried it again and it appears that did not solve it. we used another flex cable from his own spv and it still didnt work, my cable ran beautifully in his spv too though.
so, im going to find a replacement keypad pcb now and go ahead and buy it and see if i can get it to work
Hi
ive been hunting for the last hour and i cant seem to locate a d-pad anywhere
if i was to use a cingular 8525 d-pad in my vario II it would still work, just button orientation would be different wouldnt it?
do you know of anywhere where i could get one?
I'm having whit screen prob on my wizard and a complet housing case change. I didn't know a keyboard can cause white screen. I was looking to buy a new flex cable. what's the ic and who do I heat?
My screen started turning white awhile back. I now have a screen and a ribbon cable.
I replaced the screen first, and the new screen shows only white. Probably the cable, right?
Then I replaced the ribbon (keeping the new screen in) and still got only white.
Hooked the old screen back up with the new ribbon cable, and now I have a working screen, but the colors are horribly washed out and it looks like it has lines of white every other line or so.
Is there anything else I can do? Should I give up? Suggestions?
Thanks guys, I don't know if I've ever posted here, but you've been a great help for many years!
RoastGecko said:
My screen started turning white awhile back. I now have a screen and a ribbon cable.
I replaced the screen first, and the new screen shows only white. Probably the cable, right?
Then I replaced the ribbon (keeping the new screen in) and still got only white.
Hooked the old screen back up with the new ribbon cable, and now I have a working screen, but the colors are horribly washed out and it looks like it has lines of white every other line or so.
Is there anything else I can do? Should I give up? Suggestions?
Thanks guys, I don't know if I've ever posted here, but you've been a great help for many years!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Assuming the cable connectors are good and clean, it is now generally accepted that white screen issues are caused by faulty chip connections on the d-pad daughter board. If you can replace that at a reasonable cost, it might be worth it.
Your new screen may have been white because either:
1
The d-pad board is indeed faulty
OR 2
The new screen although made for the Hermes is not an exact match. You MUST replace like with like. There were at least 3 different and NON-compatible screens made for the Hermes (by different manufacturers - Toppoly, Samsung etc). The only easy way to know if the new screen is the correct one is to compare the code numbers printed on the rear of the screens.
see here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=485961
Mike
I'll have to keep a eye on eBay for a d-pad... There are a few parts phones out there now, but I can't tell if they have the right parts inside or not,
Does the serial number tell me what screen components it uses (IE Serial number XXXX+ came with the black flex, XXXX and below came with the white flex, etc?)
RoastGecko said:
I'll have to keep a eye on eBay for a d-pad... There are a few parts phones out there now, but I can't tell if they have the right parts inside or not,
Does the serial number tell me what screen components it uses (IE Serial number XXXX+ came with the black flex, XXXX and below came with the white flex, etc?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It may be that you can match screen to seriel number, but so far as I know, nobody has done that detailed matchiing task. So unfortunately at the moment, the only way to tell is to dismantle and see the number.
A thought crossed my mind about the d-pad board. Have you read the long thread about fixing the whitescreen problem. One reasonably successful solution is to place a little padding on a d-pad chip to press it against it's board. (simply put the issue arises from fractured chip solder joints - caused by finger presses on the d-pad). I don't suggest this as a permanent fix, but if such padding caused the whitescreen to disappear, then at least you could be sure it is a d-pad problem.
Mike
My boss is a parnter in a Electric car conversion company, and they build all sorts of small circuitry (including surface mount stuff) so I'll take the board into one of them and ask if they'll re-do the solder joints for me, thanks.
I never posted here, but I got all the information I used to try and fix it here, but in all my searches, I don't think I ever read anything about the Dpad untill the past few days... So thanks alot for that...
RoastGecko said:
My boss is a parnter in a Electric car conversion company, and they build all sorts of small circuitry (including surface mount stuff) so I'll take the board into one of them and ask if they'll re-do the solder joints for me, thanks.
I never posted here, but I got all the information I used to try and fix it here, but in all my searches, I don't think I ever read anything about the Dpad untill the past few days... So thanks alot for that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One thing if you have the solder reflowed (obvious to some but not all!!) remember to peel off the sticky plastic layer on the opposite side or you'll end up with a sticky mess
Mike
Hey guys,
I have a problem. A week ago I dropped my hd2 and the screen was smashed. I took it to the service and they replaced the digitizer. Now, as it turned out the lcd displays badly and the say it has to also be replaced. I know that after the drop the lcd worked fine. Now it looks like this: http://img857.imageshack.us/i/imag0001u.jpg
My question is - is this broken lcd? it has to be removed? or can I do something with it? is it the fault and they've done something wrong?
Thanks for answers.
Read this post by XDA member Facdemol, this post will help you answer your question.
emjakmaciej said:
Hey guys,
I have a problem. A week ago I dropped my hd2 and the screen was smashed. I took it to the service and they replaced the digitizer. Now, as it turned out the lcd displays badly and the say it has to also be replaced. I know that after the drop the lcd worked fine. Now it looks like this: http://img857.imageshack.us/i/imag0001u.jpg
My question is - is this broken lcd? it has to be removed? or can I do something with it? is it the fault and they've done something wrong?
Thanks for answers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unless they just haven't connected the LCD properly (very unlikely), there's definitely a problem with it... I'm afraid I think it'll have to be replaced.
in turkey if there is a digitizer problem they change the whole screen.
Under the TMOUS warranty they will replace your phone if an issue comes up like that because it's usually just an unlucky roll of the dice if your LCD does that.
because your problem seems to occur after a mechanical shock, i would suspect 2 scenarios.
1. You have a bad connection between the display flex connector and phone's motherboad. This can either be caused by motherboard display connector failure, some small pins on that connector got busted when the phone was either dropped or once the digitizer was changed. I give pretty small chances for this to have happened.
2. If you see a phone lcd stripped down of it's housing, you will notice that on the bottom part of it (or lateral one on some displays) you can see a flex cable coming from the display's glass-like surface to the back of it. It sits pretty tight around one edge of the screen. It connects the TFT matrix to the processing part (column&row controllers) on the back of the display (or on the flex cable/phone motherboard .. ). If a phone is hit from one side, the case and display housing can press hard on this flex cable and break it, or puncture it. In this case, some of the signals needed to drive some specific areas of the tft matrix aren't getting to the matrix itself so you see some lines on the screen (plus color rendering errors). Sometimes, improper manipulation of the screen when assembling back the phone can also cause the problem.
I give more chances to this scenario.
If number 1 could be fixed by a simple phone disassemble and connector checking, number 2 will indeed require a new display as there isn't any way to service that broken flex cable.
My previous posts about display problems tried to focus on "naturally occurring" problems, not ones induced by electric/mechanical shocks. So in this case, my above scenarios will be more suited as likely suspects for your problem.
Im trying to replace the digitiser on my HD2, i purchased the digitiser only and not the screen itself as it is working fine (or was!).
To get it apart i had to snap the connector off which now means i need to solder it back on.
Anyone have any suggestions as to how i go about doing this. Is a big dollop of solder over the entire thing ok, or does each of the 7 connections need to be soldered, very precisely, individually?
Alternatively, can i get away with glueing them down or something?
Next, and related problem is that when it fires up at the moment the screen is bright at the bottom but darker at the top. Soemthing to do with the backlight i guess, but anyone know how to rectify that? Or should i just go and buy the screen + digitiser?
should of been dismantled with solder iron & needs resoldering precisely.
I would suspect further damage could be evident by backlight issue.
Possibly, though when removing the screen i did mess a bit with the screen and the various mirrors and things, so figured that might have hurt it.
Anyway its now at a repair shop because im not that precise-a-solderer, see if they can fix it (or rather, how much for) and if its too pricey il have to find me a screen/digitiser combo
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
I will be opening up the phone in the next few days due to me managing to damage the sim card holder section(not holding sim card) So at present i have got somthing putting pressure to keep sim card in place. I have a new sim card holder on order so when it arrives i will pull phone apart and take some pictures.
If you have any advice for me before attempting this please let me know via pm
Do you have any experience in this kind of electronics? I mean, are you planning to replace and solder the SIM card holder by yourself?
If you have not done this type of soldering before, I do not recommend it.
If you do decide to do it on your own, make sure:
You are working on a clean workspace
You are well grounded and not wearing wool clothes mixed with synthetic materials to avoid any ESD.
Have the right tools for the job.(Temp controlled SMD soldering iron + flux and acid-free lead-free SMD solder etc.)
A very steady hand with good eyes!
As for the pictures, keep the environment as bright as possible, preferably daylight. Try to keep your PCB on a bright or neutral background. (Bright cardboard is usually good.) Inspect your pictures and make sure you can read the text on the smallest chips. (The big ones we already know about, its the smaller ones that are difficult to navigate around.) Make sure the pictures are well focused.
Good Luck!
From looking at the pictures I was hoping I don't have to solder the sim card slot in. It looks easily replaceable as it looks like it's just a connector and not soldered
Replaced the sim holder. My camera wasn't good enough to get focus of the smaller chips however it is very very easy to take phone apart. And I guess Samsung are expecting issues with sim slot so they have fixed it using one screw and connected to board using a pull off connecter.
Just in case anyone else is interested the sim holder/sd holder cost me £20, delivered.
E:V:A said:
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
amazing !!!
Hi guys,
Here is my contribution to da community, hope so it helps.
h t t p s : / / docs . google . com/open?id=0B9lrf7AWQW7ETjRZTkFXb1luN0E
On image 20120616_150200.jpg you can see the region jumpers. The images are of a live demo unit - everything works besides the GSM/3G data. Haven't tested to see if the NFC is working.
The real unit has some more antenna connector. The demo one does not have PBA /printed board antenna/ the ANT102 and ANT103 as well as the capacitors and the coils u may seen them market in red cycles (ANT102, ANT103, C102, C191, L103, L102) there is no room on the MOBO for C192 /or at least I can't find its place/.
Thanks.
^^ Here is the link for above! (Thanks!)
Hi again,
I can confirm that the NFC is working on the live demo unites. According to the original S3 user manual the NFC antennas are build into the battery back.
I still can't figure out what is the "W2" antenna connector for. The Live demo unit has no connector soldered to the motherboard and also lacks the small PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable. Some ppl claim that the W2 is for WiFi antenna, but it is not, because I got great WiFi connectivity tho the lack of such PCB antenna. I can only confirm the WiFi working fine, under "G" type of WiFi networks. The openWRT firmware of my current router has known bug and I can't bring up "N" standard in air, to check if the PCB antenna is for "N" type of WiFi networks.
I also did some testing to see if the PCB is for GLONASS or GPS, and it seams that this PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable is not for any of these services. That's why I think it might be for wifi "N" or 3G data/networks. Donno if the 802.11n requires a separate antenna.
^^ Please post a link to a specific image, that clearly show the connector(s) you're talking about.
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
No one has any insights ???
johnny21a said:
No one has any insights ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have sgs3, international version on my workbench right now.
Don´t have any clue what could I share, so - if there is anything specific -- let me know. I will do my best..
BR
Samsung galaxy S3 i747
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
check if you can see anything on the screen, use some extra light, torch for example.
if so - then its more likely that the LEDs in the display panel are damaged, since it flickered, as you said. also could be the driver circuit for backlight. Clean connectors for display panel, use magnifier, or better microscope to check for corrosion. use IPA to clean or scrape off the corrosion.
also - maybe this is not the right place to discuss this.
GL
Redrigon said:
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have he white antenna coaxial cable neigh the PCB antenna board that this cable is connected to but I have WiFi.
Could it be for WiFi N(150Mbps)?
Watter damage, LCD working/not working?
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have identical symptoms with my i9300.
1. Water damaged
2. Dried in a can of rice etc over several days
3. Cleaned under sim card, lots of debris there, looked scorched, I cleaned with alcohol and a brush in an ESD protected environment.
4. Re assembled, the display briefly flashed on, and showed the expected "Battery is low, an d No Sim Card" then powered off.
5. Now after charging the battery and emplacing my sim card, I hear the proper musical tones when the phone boots but the screen doesn't light.
Where you able to get the screen working?
I am going to try a more throughal cleaning and I will try viewing the LCD under a more power full light.
I too worry that just getting the LCD screen replaced might not work; the screen may be fine but the mother board LCD power supply might be at fault...
I will keep you posted and keep an eye on this forum to find out how to fix this.
This thread has served its main purpose.
OT discussions are prevalent.
Thread Closed!