I'm in the process of fixing an evo that had a broken charge port, and was scratched up pretty bad on the front frame, and there was dust under the screen. I removed the digitizer, and took out the LCD. I have a new front frame, and notice the adhesive for the digitizer is only on the top and bottom of the glass, where the ear speaker and capacitive buttons are. Is this the way the digitizer is attached from the HTC factory?
I have another evo I bought on release day, and I haven't had one spec of dust get in, and it lives in my pocket, so if this is how it was done from the factory, I won't be concerned. But I just wanted to make sure.
I believe the ifixit teardown also only showed adhesive at the top and bottom of the frame.
It's top and bottom. I usually add more on the sides if it feels a bit loose. But that's just me trying to satisfy picky customers.
I found the digitizer adhesive, and it does cover the entire perimeter. Just ordering the front frame only has adhesive on the top and bottom. I figured I'd play it safe, to make sure there's almost no chance of dust getting between the digitizer and the lcd.
which is where did you get the adhesive. also looking for some help fixing my port.
tokuzumi said:
I found the digitizer adhesive, and it does cover the entire perimeter. Just ordering the front frame only has adhesive on the top and bottom. I figured I'd play it safe, to make sure there's almost no chance of dust getting between the digitizer and the lcd.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looking for some help with the adhesive and the port. who has the real port for the evo. i have bought two from difer places amd no luck. very close just not good enough to put it on myself
would love some help with the port. ps me
need some help with the port. cant find where to buy it.
Sunsparc said:
It's top and bottom. I usually add more on the sides if it feels a bit loose. But that's just me trying to satisfy picky customers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea, Sprint ASC's aren't allowed to solder.
Sunsparc said:
No idea, Sprint ASC's aren't allowed to solder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you in a corporate location or ISC?
Related
The digitizers on eBay prob aren't gorilla glass, right? Can you get replacement that is real?
Did you replace it or not? i am interested in how you brake it considering it is gorilla glass. How much force need to brake it?
dropping Gorillia Glass in the wrong angle will break it!
True. Mine got dropped on the upper left edge of the phone(and it was from the height of 1m or less) and it got shaterd. Now I am searching for replacement. The phone and the screen still work but it just looks ugly.
edit* my post doesn't apply for this thread lol but it seems defy is brickproof also.
yes it can broke, it's just scratch resistant, not broke-into-pieces resistant.
Yep, I can confirm it's not shatterproof!
Hi everyone,
I just received my new digitizer from Ecell and it's glass, not plastic, so so far so good.
However, does anyone know how to fit it to the phone ? I'm not sure if it comes with adhesive or not (didn't look at it in detail) and how to remove the old digitizer without damaging the phone ?
thanks,
Arnaud.
If I'm not mistaken someone here in XDA had already open up the Defy. Search and you find it. But you will need to replace the front casing as well once you opened up your Defy..
Or you can follow this site guide Here
Ok everyone, I looked into this a bit deeper.
The digitizer I got from ebay selle Ecell looks genuine. It has the same serial number as the original and everything looks exactly the same. For those looking for a genuine Gorilla Glass replacement digitizer, I think we've found it.
There is no adhesive though and I am still looking for something suitable.
Farsight, you DONT have to replace the front casing once you've opened up the Defy. Or at least I don't see why you should.
Anyway, I'll keep you up to date as soon as my defy is back in action.
Cheers,
Arnaud.
ZookNC said:
Ok everyone, I looked into this a bit deeper.
The digitizer I got from ebay selle Ecell looks genuine. It has the same serial number as the original and everything looks exactly the same. For those looking for a genuine Gorilla Glass replacement digitizer, I think we've found it.
There is no adhesive though and I am still looking for something suitable.
Farsight, you DONT have to replace the front casing once you've opened up the Defy. Or at least I don't see why you should.
Anyway, I'll keep you up to date as soon as my defy is back in action.
Cheers,
Arnaud.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I'm not mistaken, the idea for changing the front casing is to ensure the phone remains water resistant.
Trying to replace broken gorilla glass
Here is a video of me trying to replace the broken glass on my Defy. The replacement was successful although the final result got dirty from the glue I used.
A better solution would be to replace the whole front housing with speaker, glass and digitizer. Anyone knows where one can by a complete Defy front housing?
I bought mine from no.1-tech on ebay and it looks genuine to me, too. Did yours come in a plastic bag that says "resealable" and has a sort of glue strip to close it?
Btw, globaldirectparts has everything, the digitizer, the adhesive, complete front and back housing etc. but the minimum amount of 5pcs per item is kind of a turn-off...
Yes, mine came in a resealable plastic bag with a glue strip as well.
I ended up buying some two sided tape and I cut strips to fit where the original adhesive was. It all looks very clean but now the proximity sensor doesn't work properly and the screen turns off whenever I make or answer a call. It turns back on when I press on the screen in the top left hand corner. I tried searching for a way to recalibrate the proximity sensor but I haven't found anything that works on the Defy.
If anyone has any idea on how to do this (and I'm pretty sure it's possible), could you please let everyone know?
Thank you
Cheers,
Arnaud.
I found this one.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Motorola-Defy...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item3cb8dd71f8
Don’t know anything about the dealer though
nice info, i dont know if we can change the glass. i thought before if we broke the glass, means we broke the LCD
jovus said:
True. Mine got dropped on the upper left edge of the phone(and it was from the height of 1m or less) and it got shaterd. Now I am searching for replacement. The phone and the screen still work but it just looks ugly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Happened the same to me. from 1 meter. i got the glass from ebay yesterday.
torgil said:
Here is a video of me trying to replace the broken glass on my Defy. The replacement was successful although the final result got dirty from the glue I used.
A better solution would be to replace the whole front housing with speaker, glass and digitizer. Anyone knows where one can by a complete Defy front housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the video. Best still to change the whole front casing together with the glass screen. It's very dirty in the end and surely the water resistant would not work anymore.
Did your Defy managed to power up? I see the video look like it's dead??
Sent from my awesome Moto Defy Gingerbread 2.3.3 - XDA Premium
Yes, the phone did power up - battery was empty.
The phone is working ok but, as you mentioned, the glass got very dirty. Using another type of glue and being a bit more exact when fixing the new glass to the front housing might have given better result.
As for the water reistance I'm already convinced that the defy is water resistant but the front speaker is not. Already got two front speakers replaced because of water damage.
I'm looking for a front housing with glass and speaker. I've already tried to replace the speaker om another defy but that was not so easy because the speaker is glued to the front.
I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
Buy a replacement digitizer. I got mine from ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/270938561127 ).
Gather tools:
A clean towel to use for your work area to prevent scratches and scuffs
A little plastic prying tool (likely to come with your ebay order)
A thin and sharp utility knife/razor
A three prong screwdriver. The seller I used sent a few other screwdrivers but not the three prong one. I used one I got from a Nintendo DS repair a while back.
A heat gun will make this a lot easier. I guess a hair blow-dryer might work in a pinch.
I did not see any good videos for the disassembly. The one I watched ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thTt6G27NV8 ) really screwed me over because it didn't show removing two screws first.
Here are my written steps for replacement:
Use a needle to pry out the two caps on either side of the USB charging port
Use the three prong screwdriver to remove those two screws
Insert the pry on the bottom middle between the plastic frame and the glass. Push down firmly so it wedges in up to the L shape.
Slide the pry along from the middle to either end and around the corner. You will feel the frame pop away from the innards.
Continue working the bottom half of the frame apart until you can insert tweezers or something else under the unit and lift it up and out of the frame.
Be careful to lift the bottom half then pull it out away from the top. Otherwise, you will crack the audio port which extends from the unit and fits into the hole in the top of the frame.
Set aside the frame and place the unit on a clean towel. If you have a broken screen, you are going to be dealing with lots of tiny slivers of broken glass.
On the circuitry side of the unit, you will see three big flat ribbon cables. The middle one is the digitizer. Use tweezers or the pry to *gently* lift up the tan colored plastic locking hinge on the far side (opposite the cable). It will pop up and the cable will easily slide out. Go very slow and carefully here. Don't mess with the black plastic because it will chip right off.
Now comes the painful part. Removing the old digitizer. Take a cigarette break if you need one. Maybe a Valium. Basically, almost all of the black trim part of the glass is thick strong glue binding it to the unit. You need to separate this glue to be able to peel the glass digitizer away.
Hold the unit upright with one hand and use the heat gun to loosen up the glue holding the digitizer to the unit. Run it along one edge for less than a minute until the glass is a little too hot to touch.
Quickly insert the razor as close to the glass as you can and about 6 centimeters in. Slide it along the side that you heated. Don't make any prying motions or you'll just crack the glass more.
Continue with the remaining three edges. Heat then separate. You may not make much progress the first time around, but by the second time, you should see the glass starting to peel away. It took me about 5 to 10 minutes per edge and it is grueling work.
Once you can safely peel the entire glass digitizer away from the unit, use the razor to lift up and peel off any of the flat black tape/glue that was left behind. Most of the unit where the glue goes is gray. On the sides there are two parts where you see black plastic. It is okay to leave glue residue as long as it isn't bunched up.
Vacuum up any stray glass slivers. Make sure you set aside tools screws and screw-hole-plugs before vacuuming.
Installing the new digitizer
Use an LCD spray and cleaning cloth to clean your LCD. Don't leave any dust or fingerprints as it will look bad once everything is put back together.
Remove the back covering of your replacement digitizer revealing the glue. Obviously, try not to touch the glue.
Align the digitizer above the unit, make sure the camera hole is on the correct side. Very slowly lower it down and try to have it perfectly in alignment when it touches. You will be able to nudge it a tiny bit, but the glue is strong and if you get it crooked, you are going to have to try to quickly lift it back up without cracking your new digitizer.
Once you have it in place, remove the front protective film and free the new cable. Wrap the cable around to the back and very gently insert it between the contacts then push the locking hinge down.
Testing and reassembly
Power it on and see if it works. Just push down the little metal bump closest to the edge where the power button would be on the frame.
When happy with the test, turn it off again and hold the unit above the frame.
Check the orientation then insert the top part first to fit the audio port into the hole. Line up the rest and then push down on all the edges to snap it into place.
Breathe a deep sigh of relief.
Appreciate the time you put into this, hopefully I never end up in a similar situation.
Could have used some more return key though lol
Sent from my Ceramic White LTE Galaxy Note using XDA Premium App
Wish I would have read this first. I broke the housing by the 2 bottom screws. Dayum! I haven't touched it since. Supposed to get the digitizer Friday. Wish me luck!
Its really easy to replace the digitiser on WiFi version. Use Stanley knife and hair dryer to loosen it off and remove middle flex cable. Videos on youtube
Sent from my GT-P7510 using xda app-developers app
Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice
Opuske said:
Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are covered by plugs on either side of the charge port. Gotta pry the plugs out first.
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then
Opuske said:
Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One tip: be really careful not to touch the inside surface of the glass. I ended up with a fingerprint on the inside that drives me nuts every time I clean the screen. Wear gloves if you've got them.
Otherwise it was no sweat. I used this as a guide but with a hair dryer instead of a heat gun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUI2gDQbdDY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Quick question
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?
Best tutorial on the web (much better than those godawful youtube videos).
Thank you!
Did u get an answer??? I need to
AylaAtreides said:
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you get an answer??? I did the same thing...
DEinspanjer said:
I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
[*]If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just when I thought I knew the difference between the LCD and the digitizer I read your post. You said if the glass is cracked but you can see the display just fine the digitizer is broken. When you say "see the display fine" I presume when the device is on you can see whatever it should be showing? Correct me if I am wrong. Silly me I would have thought if the glass was cracked you need the LCD. Are the glass, LCD and digitizer 3 separate parts?
Anyway on my Note 10.1 2014 edition the display suddenly went black while I was using it. All indications are the device is working because I hear notifications if I sent email to one of the accounts registered on the device. Given this limited info which part(s) do I need. The glass is pristine in that there are no cracks or scratches. Do I need the digitizer, lcd or both? How can I determine what I need for sure?
Thanks in advance,
~metafizik
The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
If you crack or damage the LCD, you will frequently see something that looks like an ink spill or a rainbow pattern.
If you crack or damage the digitizer, you can still see pictures fine, but some or all of it might no longer respond to touch.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.
DEinspanjer said:
The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the information. I agree there is no telling what might have caused the problem especially given some other problems that proceeded this. I had recently replaced the battery and even with the new one it was draining way too quickly. I concluded it might be the ROM I was running had become corrupted because Google services was using the lions share of the battery instead of the screen. I downloaded and installed a factory Lolipop image and it was running fine for about half a day when the wife started playing around with live wallpapers we had never tried when it went black.
At this point I am reluctant to spend $ replacing the Lcd given it might be something else altogether.
Thanks again,
~metafizik
Accepting offers on my 32GB Note 10.1 2014 edition. As described above the display has gone dark but system is otherwise working fine. Includes very nice MoKo Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard Cover Case and the tablet's battery is new.
Hi guys, The bezel on my note is quite weak, and have noticed quite major chipping which is annoying to me as I love having a perfect phone!
I found this on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-Hous...lePhoneAccessories&hash=item19e3905929&_uhb=1
Wondering how easy it would be to replace? Looking at teardown videos no-one actually takes the bezel itself off.
Isn't the bezel part of the chassis mean most other parts attach to it?
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Limeybastard said:
Isn't the bezel part of the chassis mean most other parts attach to it?
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can take the mainboard off it quite easily as shown in the youtube teardowns.
The bezel can't be replaced. The complete display assembly needs to be replaced. The display is glued on the frame and bezel and is very likely to break when trying to pry it loose.
jusutus said:
The bezel can't be replaced. The complete display assembly needs to be replaced. The display is glued on the frame and bezel and is very likely to break when trying to pry it loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have just replaced one for a customer and it can be done. It takes a lot of patience. The lcd & digitizer are glued together, and the back of the lcd is glued to the frame. The frame has all the small pieces in it. You have to remove everything from the phone down to the screen. When removing the screen i found it worked best by heating the back, then the front, and then the back once more. I started at the top left corner where i could push the glass out with a plastic pick tool i have. Once you get the screen out a little you can stick a saftey pry tool or second pick in there. Then you slowly slide it around one side and the other to the bottom. Once the sceen is separated from the edges you have to slowly and VERY carfully hey your spudger under the lcd and slowly slide it around to separate the glue, doing this on one side and then the other. With any luck you can get yours out too. If your looking at getting a whole new assembly you might as well try any ways.
i have trouble believing this is an oem part of under 20$...smells like a scam to me
polish_pat said:
i have trouble believing this is an oem part of under 20$...smells like a scam to me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have purchased s3 l710 and c-spire housing parts from them this past year. Parts I received were oem 100% All markings and materials were the same as the parts I was replacing.
Seperating samsung display from bezel on s3, note 3, and s4 is a difficult repair for the novice repair tech.
DMOYER said:
I have just replaced one for a customer and it can be done. It takes a lot of patience. The lcd & digitizer are glued together, and the back of the lcd is glued to the frame. The frame has all the small pieces in it. You have to remove everything from the phone down to the screen. When removing the screen i found it worked best by heating the back, then the front, and then the back once more. I started at the top left corner where i could push the glass out with a plastic pick tool i have. Once you get the screen out a little you can stick a saftey pry tool or second pick in there. Then you slowly slide it around one side and the other to the bottom. Once the sceen is separated from the edges you have to slowly and VERY carfully hey your spudger under the lcd and slowly slide it around to separate the glue, doing this on one side and then the other. With any luck you can get yours out too. If your looking at getting a whole new assembly you might as well try any ways.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you do it for my Note 3?
I need to change my note 3 middle frame....
Guys pls sent me the link
rishanhakim said:
I need to change my note 3 middle frame....
Guys pls sent me the link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here. Even I need to change my silver bezel. Third grade quality bezel on a first grade phone. I always take utmost care of my phone and this is what happens to it due to usage within 1 year. Any suggestions plz.
speedykol said:
Same here. Even I need to change my silver bezel. Third grade quality bezel on a first grade phone. I always take utmost care of my phone and this is what happens to it due to usage within 1 year. Any suggestions plz.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Grab a case
Sent from my Limited Edition Note 3 LTE using Super Tapatalk
Hello there,
just bought a used X Style in good condition. However the phone is slightly bent, distorted possibly from heat. So when you put it face down on an even surface as on a table, it actually rocks... One of the things I cannot do now is to actually put a glass protector on its screen as it will not stick.
Anyone with a similar experience ? Is there anyway to rectify the problem apart from buying a new front housing? I can easily open it up and disassemble it but would it offer anything at all?
Thanks for your ideas
axolotl98 said:
Hello there,
just bought a used X Style in good condition. However the phone is slightly bent, distorted possibly from heat. So when you put it face down on an even surface as on a table, it actually rocks... One of the things I cannot do now is to actually put a glass protector on its screen as it will not stick.
Anyone with a similar experience ? Is there anyway to rectify the problem apart from buying a new front housing? I can easily open it up and disassemble it but would it offer anything at all?
Thanks for your ideas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the back of the phone slightly curved from bottom to top, thicker in the middle? This is not bent, this is design.
Are the edges of the screen slightly higher than the rest of the screen? This is normal, it's a huge piss off, but it's normal. Research glass screen protectors moto x pure and you'll find that there are very few which stick to the moto x, let alone stick well. My guess is the phone is not actually bent, the back is curved as it should be and the screen is made slightly different, and not many glass screen protectors work.
Edit : face down it rocks...that's odd I've not experienced that, maybe it is bent and I don't know what to do about that
Thanks for your reply. But yes the phone is bent, and I am not sure which structural part is bent and which part of the phone actually follow suit. If I could identify the part that is bent, I could take it apart, replace the bent part (middle frame?) and then it would be perfect. What is also really funny, is that the screen is not broken nor split, as it seems to be elastic enough to bent without breaking...
axolotl98 said:
Thanks for your reply. But yes the phone is bent, and I am not sure which structural part is bent and which part of the phone actually follow suit. If I could identify the part that is bent, I could take it apart, replace the bent part (middle frame?) and then it would be perfect. What is also really funny, is that the screen is not broken nor split, as it seems to be elastic enough to bent without breaking...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries. I have no idea what part could be bent, but it's possible that there's a lot of stress on the glass and it could break at a later point in time. You could try taking it apart and see if you can identify what is bent, had the phone been taken apart or had the screen been repaired before you got it?
I ask because I had to repair my screen, did it myself, but had to glue the frame to the LCD. In doing so I used crazy glue, and then 3 months down the road the bottom quarter of my screen stopped responding to touch due to the crazy glue pushing up on parts of the screen and wrecking something inside.
Does anyone know if it's possible to buy just the glass for screen? I have a small crack in bottom right corner and a sliver of glass fell out so I can see inside the phone. The LCD digitizer is fully intact no issue. Only thing I can find is full screen replacement with digitizer and all.
I'd like to know as well. I checked one repair shop (Ubreakifix) they stated they have successfully performed the screen replacement once but it was very difficult and cost more than the 200 out of warranty replacement essential offers.
I would personally not bother and just go with the $200 out of warranty replacement that Essential charges
Nickvanexel said:
Does anyone know if it's possible to buy just the glass for screen? I have a small crack in bottom right corner and a sliver of glass fell out so I can see inside the phone. The LCD digitizer is fully intact no issue. Only thing I can find is full screen replacement with digitizer and all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can.
Check out the Essential Reddit.
There is a thread there and also where to get the parts.
tech_head said:
You can.
Check out the Essential Reddit.
There is a thread there and also where to get the parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't find it.
Nickvanexel said:
I can't find it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
https://www.reddit.com/r/essential/comments/8mx94d/successfully_exchanged_the_display/
I see some sellers on ebay, selling only the Glass Lens screen. I am ordering one today for my cracked screen which still responses well. The glass lens is for ~10dollars vs the whole lcd replacement kit for 60bucks.
Let know if anyone has had success with replacement the glass lens only.
DuaSahab said:
I see some sellers on ebay, selling only the Glass Lens screen. I am ordering one today for my cracked screen which still responses well. The glass lens is for ~10dollars vs the whole lcd replacement kit for 60bucks.
Let know if anyone has had success with replacement the glass lens only.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did your install go? I'm thinking about going the same route but I'm concerned it'll just be a big hassle and waste of time.
Nickvanexel said:
Does anyone know if it's possible to buy just the glass for screen? I have a small crack in bottom right corner and a sliver of glass fell out so I can see inside the phone. The LCD digitizer is fully intact no issue. Only thing I can find is full screen replacement with digitizer and all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that I know of, a Fix It Fast repair shop said they can't replace just the glass and have to do the full screen.
I paid $70 for a screen online and they charged $30 for labor so I paid $100 in all to have mine fixed(Only took 45 mins).
I broke my screen and not living in the US meant essential wanted nothing to do with me. If you don't mind buying from Aliexpress there are loads of sellers selling replacement screens. Despite what iFixit say, it was really easy. I just used a heat gun and a suction cup and lifted from the top of the phone first as the ribbon cable is at the bottom. After that there just 2 small screw that hold the cable in.
Only real caveat I have for the DIY route is none of the screens I've seen ship with adhesive to fit them. I just used the narrowest 3M double sided tape for screens I could get and still had to trim it down.
The glass, digitizer and screen are pretty much bonded together as one thing I would really not recommend attempting that even if you find somewhere just selling the glass.