Related
To make a long story short:
I must have somehow put too much pressure on the digitizer to create a "newton ring" which in turn would not allow me to use the touch feature of the digitizer. I sent it to HTC USA to repair it. They noticed the "newton ring" as well as the modified ROM
They would not warranty the "newton ring" and said they would not repair the Digitizer due to the fact that it had been "hacked". They would replace the Digitizer, LCD and internals for $389.00. I told them they were smoking crack.
After paying HTC $25.00 for doing nothing they sent the phone back and I went online to order a Digitizer. I paid $17.00 which included shipping and I got it within 7 days.
The HTC service manual does not have a guide on how to replace the digitizer or the LCD. They really don't want you messing with it.
It was scary and I thought I had ruined the phone when I pryed the front of the unit open. At first the sticker to the digitizer came off(black framing) and then you have to pry the digitizer(its pretty stiff) from the frame. I destroyed the thin cable that led to the backside of the LCD but the new one has one already attached so I wasn't worried about that part. The LCD with a metal base plate is attached to the back of it. You have to slowly pry off the LCD from the backside of the digitizer.
Anyways I have assembled it back and everything is working perfectly. It was doing Micro-Surgery at times.
Just wanted to share my story.
Congratulations!!
mrmomoman said:
To make a long story short:
I must have somehow put too much pressure on the digitizer to create a "newton ring" which in turn would not allow me to use the touch feature of the digitizer. I sent it to HTC USA to repair it. They noticed the "newton ring" as well as the modified ROM
They would not warranty the "newton ring" and said they would not repair the Digitizer due to the fact that it had been "hacked". They would replace the Digitizer, LCD and internals for $389.00. I told them they were smoking crack.
After paying HTC $25.00 for doing nothing they sent the phone back and I went online to order a Digitizer. I paid $17.00 which included shipping and I got it within 7 days.
The HTC service manual does not have a guide on how to replace the digitizer or the LCD. They really don't want you messing with it.
It was scary and I thought I had ruined the phone when I pryed the front of the unit open. At first the sticker to the digitizer came off(black framing) and then you have to pry the digitizer(its pretty stiff) from the frame. I destroyed the thin cable that led to the backside of the LCD but the new one has one already attached so I wasn't worried about that part. The LCD with a metal base plate is attached to the back of it. You have to slowly pry off the LCD from the backside of the digitizer.
Anyways I have assembled it back and everything is working perfectly. It was doing Micro-Surgery at times.
Just wanted to share my story.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you attach the digitizer to the LCD? Aren't they glued together or something like that?
Because that's where my attempt went terribly wrong: Instead of getting the digitizer off my LCD, I broke my LCD... I bought a new complete screen unit because I didn't know how the LCD is attached to the digitizer!
The digitizer is semi-glued to the LCD panel which sits on the back along with the thin metal cover. The digitizer has a thin flat connector that connects to the back of the main board on the bottom. I slowly pryed off the LCD(grayish white in color) from the back of the Digitizer. It came off and I aligned it back up with the new digitizer and the glue residue left over from the LCD adhered to the rear of the new Digitizer. the tricky part is the thin connectors that attach to the mainboard. You have to get a pair of tweezers to pull it from the flat connector. When you get the digitizer you will see the new connector. Attaching that and the prying of the LCD was the hard part.
I read somewhere some guy said he broke the LCD but in truth it wasn't the LCD that he broke. He pryed apart the 3 layers of the Digitizer and thought he ruined the LCD. I thought the same thing orignally then I when the whole LCD/Digitizer was in my hand I was looking realized that the LCD was the grayish/white panel on the back. One can easily peel away the top 2 layers of the digitizer and would think that it could be the LCD they ruined.
I hope that makes sense. It was the first time I did this and I didn't see the video where someone removed the Screen. I only saw the Russian guy who didn't finish the job because he was stuck at the end. I just figured it out the hard way.
Also the T6 works but I think a t5 would be better. I only had a T6 and it did the job.
I am so glad I wore gloves or I would have had some major finger prints all over the unit
mrmomoman said:
The digitizer is semi-glued to the LCD panel which sits on the back along with the thin metal cover. The digitizer has a thin flat connector that connects to the back of the main board on the bottom. I slowly pryed off the LCD(grayish white in color) from the back of the Digitizer. It came off and I aligned it back up with the new digitizer and the glue residue left over from the LCD adhered to the rear of the new Digitizer. the tricky part is the thin connectors that attach to the mainboard. You have to get a pair of tweezers to pull it from the flat connector. When you get the digitizer you will see the new connector. Attaching that and the prying of the LCD was the hard part.
I read somewhere some guy said he broke the LCD but in truth it wasn't the LCD that he broke. He pryed apart the 3 layers of the Digitizer and thought he ruined the LCD. I thought the same thing orignally then I when the whole LCD/Digitizer was in my hand I was looking realized that the LCD was the grayish/white panel on the back. One can easily peel away the top 2 layers of the digitizer and would think that it could be the LCD they ruined.
I hope that makes sense. It was the first time I did this and I didn't see the video where someone removed the Screen. I only saw the Russian guy who didn't finish the job because he was stuck at the end. I just figured it out the hard way.
Also the T6 works but I think a t5 would be better. I only had a T6 and it did the job.
I am so glad I wore gloves or I would have had some major finger prints all over the unit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your explanation! But I'm still not going to attempt this on my own any time soon... We'll see... Maybe I'll change my mind if my digitizer is broken or scratched...
Respect man! You mentioned that you bought digitizer for $17. Is it possible to buy mainboard for Touch HD from that place? Can you please advise where I can get it. And how much it will be?
Got to love a bit of micro-electronics DIY!
This just shows that HTC are taking people for a ride - there are a lot of people who would have just paid the price they stated. As you've only replaced the digitizer, shows they were taking the mick with the LCD and otherwise, what are these "internals" that HTC said it needed I wonder...??
Just replaced the digitizer on my HD and it took about 1.5hrs. As long as you're very careful, it's not that hard at all.
Make sure you have the Service Manual though as it was a great help.
Have you got the link for the service manual?
Ive just had to order a Digitizer as my phone has decided it doesnt want to work anymore (6 months to go on contract too ffs).
Managed to get one from a UK seller with tools for £17 so im happy.
KickAssMoves said:
Have you got the link for the service manual?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's in the wiki.
WelshWarior said:
Just replaced the digitizer on my HD and it took about 1.5hrs. As long as you're very careful, it's not that hard at all.
Make sure you have the Service Manual though as it was a great help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi:
How did you get the digitizer separated from the LCD?
I was thinking of putting two suction cups (1 on the back of the LCD, and the other on the front of the digitizer), heating everything up for a couple of minutes with a heat gun, and then pulling them apart holding the suction cups.
Does that make sense?
Thanks.
mrmomoman said:
To make a long story short:
I must have somehow put too much pressure on the digitizer to create a "newton ring" which in turn would not allow me to use the touch feature of the digitizer. I sent it to HTC USA to repair it. They noticed the "newton ring" as well as the modified ROM
They would not warranty the "newton ring" and said they would not repair the Digitizer due to the fact that it had been "hacked". They would replace the Digitizer, LCD and internals for $389.00. I told them they were smoking crack.
After paying HTC $25.00 for doing nothing they sent the phone back and I went online to order a Digitizer. I paid $17.00 which included shipping and I got it within 7 days.
The HTC service manual does not have a guide on how to replace the digitizer or the LCD. They really don't want you messing with it.
It was scary and I thought I had ruined the phone when I pryed the front of the unit open. At first the sticker to the digitizer came off(black framing) and then you have to pry the digitizer(its pretty stiff) from the frame. I destroyed the thin cable that led to the backside of the LCD but the new one has one already attached so I wasn't worried about that part. The LCD with a metal base plate is attached to the back of it. You have to slowly pry off the LCD from the backside of the digitizer.
Anyways I have assembled it back and everything is working perfectly. It was doing Micro-Surgery at times.
Just wanted to share my story.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i just had mines fixed called them told them wat i did that i found an outer sreen and tryed to replace it myself and completely destroyed the lil black screen inside of the 4screens put together and that my device software was moded now i had 469 out going and another 469 incoming calls they only charged me 113 but wen we first talked about it they did say about 350 until they see the device and then they will call you before the repair it but the did wipe out my device and reinstalled the oem rom they also gave me a full new body and zero'ed out the incoming and out going calls which never changest unless they put in a new mother board which makes my phone brand new
sorry if ive missed it, but how do you get the lcd and digi out from the black outer casing frame to start with ??, from what i can see it comes out by somehow pushing from the inside to make it pop out ?? could someone please explain a little bit more on how to do this, ill try and make a vid of me getting it out as i have yet to find one that shows this, also my screen has that wierd pearl essance look to it?? does this mean its the digitiser.
Cheers
Mike
pickie said:
sorry if ive missed it, but how do you get the lcd and digi out from the black outer casing frame to start with ??, from what i can see it comes out by somehow pushing from the inside to make it pop out ?? could someone please explain a little bit more on how to do this, ill try and make a vid of me getting it out as i have yet to find one that shows this, also my screen has that wierd pearl essance look to it?? does this mean its the digitiser.
Cheers
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine had that pearl essence look to it for a good few months before it broke, not that im sure that has anything to do with it.
Just awaiting the delivery of the digitizer and hopefully I can repair it.
yeh mine had the pearl effect for a long time prior to it dyeing
ive followed the service manual and the video of the guy who gets stuck near the end, but how do you g et the screen out of the casing to get to the digitizer?
Its one hell of atight fit and i cant see anything o bvious.
Help
Hi Guys
Sorry about the late replies - had phoneline probs!!
Assuming you followed the instructions in the Service Manual to take the rest of the phone apart, you've just gotta be VERY careful and push the screen out from the back (where the Circuit Boards where) of the plastic frame. At first, it feels like it's not budging but be patient and it WILL start to push away.
It seems to be held in with some sort of hot glue or maybe a contact sort of adhesive and I didn't try it but some heat from something like a hair dryer may make the job easier.
Many people have cracked their LCD screen during the repair but as long as you're careful not to bend the screen too much when taking it out, you'll be fine.
I peeled the 3 layers (outer glass ones and then the Digitizer itself) off the LCD whilst removing it.
Good luck - it's really not that hard. Any more questions - just ask ;-)
ive got the phone apart to the point of the service manual/video
which part of the back do you push out? doesnt look obvious as to whats attached and what isnt
Once you get to the last stage (I thinks it's the Speaker Removal) you simply push on the metal protector of the LCD from the back. You will see small holes in the plastic of the back of the frame where you can push something blunt through and push very lightly on the LCD to push it out.
If I remember correctly, at the bottom of the phone where the circuit board with the vibrator and microphone on it was sitting, there is quite a large opening with the metal backing of the LCD visible through it. I started pushing there and gently went all around the phone in the various small holes dotted around it.
As I said above, it won't feel like it's working at first but it will - just be patient and not too heavy handed!
I recently tried repairing a friends HD2, because he had a smashed screen.
I bought the new screen and some 2mm double sided tape. Took the phone apart, and managed to see the lcd was damaged also. Bought one of those then taped the new screen and lcd together using the tape.
The inner chassis had all the old tape on it still, so I bought a new inner chassis. Waited for it, then stuck the new lcd / digitizer to it. The button end didnt seem to stick down that well - even with the new chassis, with the buttons wanting to drop out, and them not sitting out of the screen like they should.
I thought it must be due to the phone only partially assembled, so went ahead and installed the rest of the phone.
Now its together the button end of the phone wont sit in the shell properly and the buttons seem to be lower than they should...
How am i supposed to get this inner chassis to stick properly, and are there any tips or vids to show how its supposed to sit?
thanks.
maybe this video can help you with assembling your phone.
Search on youtube for t8Q7mXdcJ54.
Ive watched that video numerous times, and its a little misleading as to how much is required. Extra tape in places that had to be cut and removed, labels not sticking back down like they do in the video etc.
Im after information as to how people stuck the lcd/digitizer to the inner chassis. I used a new inner chassis with tape pre applied, and it still didnt seem to stick the two things together enough. When you stick the chassis (with lcd/digitizer) into the outer case, it doesnt sit into the case enough, and the buttons are not sitting right.
If u have purchased lcd with digitizer,u could look for flat cable that connects from lcd to mbo,maybe u need to form it.buttons have points to allign,but u need to center both sides in micrometer to function normal.lcd/digitizer frame must have black tape on edges.
Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk
kew1701 said:
If u have purchased lcd with digitizer,u could look for flat cable that connects from lcd to mbo,maybe u need to form it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please explain? Not sure what u mean by "form it"
buttons have points to allign,but u need to center both sides in micrometer to function normal.lcd/digitizer frame must have black tape on edges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
done this and still no luck
I have the same problem like foney!
See this:
argh, i can't post my photos! how to do it now, i don't have 8 posts yet!
I've used "3M 300LSE" as a profesional doublesided tape i thought and also put a 2mm stripe below the keyboard, but the display is not really fixed onto the chassi around the keyboard and the keys also can't be used really, because they are maybe not correct centered onto the keyboard circuit board. i've been using the assembly video from htc, but there it's not mentionend very well, how to do it right.
foney said:
Please explain? Not sure what u mean by "form it"
Maybe it need curved angle to 100% fit
done this and still no luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm,last thing i can think is that lcd/digitizer is not properly glued/taped.Did u put pressure for few hours on lcd/digitizer and middle frame?
it is taped on around the lcd using 2mm 3M double sided tape. The chassis i bought new, with tape included. When you stick the lcd/digi to the chassis, it appears that the button end, as l0rdius mentioned, isnt stuck down enough.
The video has the guy "magically" sticking it all together and all going together as it should, but doesnt show any real detail, like showing how things go together to fit properly.
edit/ pulled the phone apart again, and its definitely a case of the tape on the chassis near the buttons not sticking correctly. Ive wrapped it in rubber bands, and used some wooden clothes pegs to try to secure the two better. If it doesnt stick, then I may have to use something stronger than tape, like Tarzans Grip
I've found another thread, in which "profahmad" posted some hints:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328&page=8
Today i've ordered some more 3M 300LSE and want to take a new try on weekend with these hints. Hope i get the display better glued to the chassis and the buttons correctly justified.
Whats about the sticker under the battery. do you guys have problems reassembling it again and again? Or how do you handle it?
l0rdius said:
I've found another thread, in which "profahmad" posted some hints:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328&page=8
Whats about the sticker under the battery. do you guys have problems reassembling it again and again? Or how do you handle it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im using glue like in the link if applying pressure for a day or two doesnt work.
I applied a little double sided tape under it, then when i left the phone for a few days with the battery in it seemed to stick down fairly well. Not like factory new, but good enough.
Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....
My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.
Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks
Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!
My HD2 finally developed the dreaded unresponsive touchscreen problem this week after just over 2 years use and as I'm now out-of-warranty I've decided to replace the lcd/digitizer myself.
Searching XDA and youTube for inspiration threw up a lot of scattered information, some useful and a lot more that was wrong and misleading so i'd like to establish a thread here with all the right answers provided, in detail.
This should also be of interest to those with dropped phones and smashed screens.
So far I've discovered:
- my unresponsive touchscreen is a hardware (not software) issue; caused by damage to the digitizer cable accumulated over time by repeated presses of the power button, to which it is physically adjacent.
- if the cable is only slightly damaged, a temporary fix might be achieved by pressing on the power button until the touchscreen starts responding again and then avoiding pressing the power button thereafter. ie. letting the phone timeout to sleep automatically and waking the phone up by pressing one of the other buttons rather than the power button.
- a permanent fix involves replacing the digitizer which requires an almost complete teardown of the phone. I'm open to any other suggestions from posters for say, repairing the cable although I haven't seen any as yet.
- although only the digitizer needs replacing, it's easier (albeit slightly more expensive) to replace the LCD and digitizer as a unit, which is the same part whatever version of HD2 you have.
- The disassembly procedure is fiddly with a lot of easily-breakable cables and connectors.
I've already acquired the LCD/ digitizer (part no. 60H00300-00P) from ebay, for £22.99 shipped, which was a pretty good deal as the standard UK price seems to be ~£38. The cheapest I found for the digitizer only (without LCD) in the UK was 11.95 shipped. The difference in price wasn't worth the extra installation hassle for me.
other required items are: a T5 torx screwdriver, a small jeweller's screwdriver set, tweezers, a guitar pick, an old credit card or similar, superglue (or double-sided adhesive tape) and thin (2.5mm?) single-side adhesive tape. also reading glasses or a magnifier might be handy depending on the quality of your close vision (i'm 54 so mine lacks somewhat).
This is by far the best instructional video I have found to date:
http://mperlitsch.hintergrundbild.com/htc_hd2.htm#Zerlegeanleitung
.. unfortunately its in German, which mostly isn't a problem as you can see what he is doing, except at the end as he describes (at length, rather than showing) the final step of superglueing the new LCD/ digitizer into the phone chassis, where i thought I might have missed some important details. Perhaps any German-speaking posters could fill us in on that procedure?
The above website also accompanies the video with some text descriptions of the various stages of disassembly which I will get google- translated into English.
There is another useful-looking instructional site here (hi-res pics, no video):
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+HTC+HD2+PB81120+Screen/5651/1
Finally there are also some leaked official HTC breakdown videos on youTube @720p here:
disassembly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4&feature=player_embedded
reassembly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
I'll keep the thread updated as I go and I would welcome any help or tips from anybody that has already been down this road.
My aim is to develop a foolproof instructional guide that almost anybody can follow to extend the life of this great phone.
I've read that german thread as well and I'd agree that it does seem to be a very good guide, to read it in english open the page in chrome (or search for the thread in google) and let google translate it,
Step 32 for example translates to Step 32: Now as in step 31 and proceed to the bottom of using each 1 drop of superglue and moisten with clothespins along with the 30-minute fix waiting / drying time. In the bottom right where the flex board stops at the edge of the touchscreen and LCD connector watch film. There, only the metal bridge very carefully and very economical with wet glue. Important: Use sparingly only at the marked positions superglue! Never close the buttons at the bottom, even if the lure still should be as large. It is held there by our HTC special adhesive film wonderfully.
HypoTurtle said:
I've read that german thread as well and I'd agree Step 32: Now as in step 31 and proceed to the bottom of using each 1 drop of superglue and moisten with clothespins along with the 30-minute fix waiting / drying time. In the bottom right where the flex board stops at the edge of the touchscreen and LCD connector watch film. There, only the metal bridge very carefully and very economical with wet glue. Important: Use sparingly only at the marked positions superglue! Never close the buttons at the bottom, even if the lure still should be as large. It is held there by our HTC special adhesive film wonderfully.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll have a look and see where his "marked positions" are. i already figured from the video that he was stressing about the buttons.
As this is the only part that I'm nervous about, I'd be interested in anybody else's experience of sticking the new lcd/ digitizer into the chassis. what did you use? and how did it go?
Presumably HTC didn't use superglue at the factory. Has anybody tried double-sided adhesive tape for this?
EDIT: I've just ordered some cheap generic double-sided tape on ebay, advertised as "New Clear Strong Permanent Double Sided Self Adhesive Craft Packaging Tape".
I'm still waiting for my LCD/ digitizer part to arrive and in the meantime bought another HD2, with a smashed screen, to practice disassembly on.
my own HD2 is currently behaving itself as long as I don't forget not to touch the power button.
i've now received my digitizer/ lcd part + (noname) double-sided tape in the post.
i've also found another XDA thread speaking in more detail about the step of fixing the lcd/ digitizer back into the middle chassis here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1341927
there is some debate in that thread over whether tape might be a better bet than superglue. the tape they recommend is 3M brand 2mm double-sided, for which I have sourced a supplier on eBay (item #281023942070 -- "3M 2mm x 50m Adhesive Tape Roll for iPod iPhone iPad - Transparent") for £5.99. I'm going to get a roll of that but may still opt for the superglue method ... undecided.
Mine was the same,
After seeing some videos I decided to buy a digitizer from ebay, it looked really easy on the videos. I bought one for 25€ , the ribbon cable looked strange but I decided to go on. After finishing everything the digitizer doesn't respond. I want to test the digitizer alone, any idea? I've access to a complete electronic lab, so there's no problem to use an oscilloscope or whatever.
Thanks in advance
Lbalddy said:
Mine was the same,
After seeing some videos I decided to buy a digitizer from ebay, it looked really easy on the videos. I bought one for 25€ , the ribbon cable looked strange but I decided to go on. After finishing everything the digitizer doesn't respond. I want to test the digitizer alone, any idea? I've access to a complete electronic lab, so there's no problem to use an oscilloscope or whatever.
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sounds like you might have bought the wrong digitizer. You know there are 2 types, soldered and solderless (plug-in) which have different connectors?
Any pics? How did the disassembly go otherwise?
in the german video i posted, he shows how to reconnect the ribbon cables and test the lcd/ digitizer before glueing it in and reassembling the phone.
The pictures are quite big. Resize the browser window width to shrink the pictures to a more manageable size.
Disclaimer: Perform the following repairs at your own risk. This thread is for educational purposes only. You will void your warranty if you proceed. But that's implied, right?
Disassembly
Many of you will already know how troublesome sending a phone back to the manufacturer for repairs is. This is especially the case for OnePlus, whose after-sales support isn't exceptional, and compared to the price of the OPO itself, their repair costs are by no means affordable ($201 and an unknown amount of days). I've read that a number of forum members have repaired their screens themselves using parts from the internet, but it wasn't all that well documented. So as a mobile phone repairer by profession, I thought it would help a lot of people with broken screens for me to write up a detailed walkthrough/tutorial teaching them how to fix it themselves. Let's get to it!
New: a video! (credits to @stephenlotus)
Note that this guide can be used to replace any modular component; the StyleSwap cover, camera, charging port, you name it - just disassemble your phone until you reach your desired step, replace the faulty/damaged part, then re-assemble it!
Actually obtaining the replacement part? Well, that's another story
Equipment/Materials:
Precision screwdriver set (cross-head/Phillip's head, flat-head)
Sharp craft knife/Stanley knife
Plastic pry tools
Fine-tipped tweezers
Stainless steel pry tools
Thin, rigid cards/guitar picks
Hairdryer/industrial hot air gun (recommended)
Air blower (use this to clean the cameras and lenses before closing it up (not your breath))
A full screen assembly (not just the see-through glass digitizer)*
A roll (or a couple of different widths) of double-sided 3M repair tape or pre-cut 3M tape (see second post)
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*The screen can be bought from various sellers on the internet starting from about $80 for the more repair-friendly version, depending on postage and stuff. Given the exclusive nature of the OnePlus One, any seller that sells a "Genuine/Original/OEM" screen assembly is 95% guaranteed to be an original screen. It isn't profitable for third party manufacturers to produce aftermarket replacements or re-manufacture working LCDs with broken glass (glass broken but LCD still works, remove broken glass and re-laminate a new one onto it). The market is small, because most people would still prefer to RMA their phones.
Also note that this guide assumes you will be re-using the old frame/chassis. If you plan to replace it too, then you will need to remove the earpiece grille (if the new screen doesn't have it) from the old screen, and it's best to move the foam lining from the old frame to the new frame too.
I don't think I'm allowed to disclose sites that sell "original" OnePlus accessories/parts, so get Googling!
Actually, I can now. Mwahahahahaha!
You can buy the screen assembly from sites like eBay and AliExpress. I recommend getting the fully assembled screen, complete with capacitive key backlights:
www.aliexpress.com/item/for-Oneplus...zer-assembly-by-free-shipping/2022582516.html
The one without the button backlights is cheaper, but you'll have to take it from your old screen:
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shippi...mbly-For-Oneplus-One-1-A0001/32245677673.html
Do not get the glass/digitizer only, unless you're up to the challenge, your LCD still works and you want the great savings:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...or-OnePlus-One-Free-shipping/32243992827.html
Note: there's absolutely nothing wrong with my OnePlus One (well, except for very mild touchscreen issues). If I were to wait until I actually break it (which is never in a million years), I'd never get around to writing this tutorial. Your experience may vary, depending on severity of damage.
Step 1: Eject the SIM tray.
Step 2: Remove the StyleSwap cover. Using a plastic pry tool, start by lightly wedging it underneath the SIM slot (do not pry), and run it across the gap to release the clips. This ensures minimal/no damage to the battery and/or scratches to the StyleSwap cover, unlike using OnePlus' "Press and Peel" method. Never forget.
Step 3: Using a knife with a sharp tip, remove the rubber screw caps covering the three screws in the middle of the camera lens cover.
Step 4: Unscrew all the screws, and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them.
Step 5: Using a plastic pry tool, pry off the camera cover from the corner near the power button or volume button. Caution! The battery flex may be stuck to the cover, so don't lift it up all the way. Detach it from the cover before fully removing it.
Step 6: Using the aforementioned method, do the same for the speaker assembly. Remove the rubber screw caps, unscrew all the screws and store in a safe place. Note how the screws covered with the caps are smaller.
Step 7: Pry off the speaker assembly, starting from the USB port.
Step 8: Use a plastic pry tool to detach the battery flex connector if it hasn't detached yet, then carefully wedge a stainless steel pry tool underneath the battery, starting at the bottom left corner. This side has less adhesive, so it's easier to start on this side. DO NOT PUSH DOWN INTO THE CHASSIS. Delicate flex cables reside here. Keep all pushing of the pry tool as horizontal as possible.
Step 9: Once the left side of the battery has lifted enough, change directions of the pry tool. Use the left side of the chassis as a leverage point, and lift the battery out of the battery well. Be careful not to puncture or deform the battery. You can use a pry tool to cut the adhesive on the right side off the battery.
Step 10: Unplug all the flex cable connectors off the logic board. There are 4 along the bottom edge and 1 to the left of the camera. DO NOT USE THE LOGIC BOARD AS A LEVERAGE POINT. There are delicate surface mount components on the logic board that can easily be damaged accidentally and are nearly impossible to replace. Hold down the logic board, and pull the flex connector up and away from the board.
Alternatively, if you want to cut to the chase and just replace the screen without removing all that other stuff, you can, by only disconnecting the LCD and digitizer flex (rightmost flex along the bottom and the wide flex in the top left corner respectively) and skipping to Step 19. Just remember to remove the plastic block in Step 16 and also be careful not to overheat the earpiece area.
Step 11: Unscrew the screw holding down the logic board. It is located next to the power button. Do not lose it for mix it up with the other screws. It is different in every dimension.
Step 12: Using a sharp knife, peel the button flexes off the chassis, making sure the bottom edge comes off first and be careful not to cut the flex.
Step 13: Push the digitizer flex away from the logic board so it doesn't get caught, and lift the logic board up from the chassis in an arc motion, starting from the top left corner. Rotate it clockwise while doing so.
Step 14: There is still one connector still connected to the logic board on the underside, and that's the cellular antenna connector. Pull the antenna slightly out of its groove.
Step 15: Detach the antenna connector from the logic board using a plastic pry tool. You can use the logic board as the leverage point here, but make sure there aren't any delicate components nearby.
Step 16: Using a pair of fine-tipped tweezers, remove the plastic block that sits next to the digitizer flex connector.
iFixit's teardown does not cover this. If you don't remove it, the flex connector will be caught and will not come out.
Step 17: Carefully, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the earpiece. This prevents the diaphragm from being damaged later on, when the hot air gun is used.
CAUTION: the earpiece's diaphragm and voice coil has the tendency to fall apart and separate itself from the rest of the earpiece. Be careful.
Step 18 (optional if doing a screen replacement, just don't damage them in the process): Peel the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex and USB port flex from the chassis, and remove them.
Step 19: Evenly heat the bezels of the screen using a hairdryer on high heat setting or a hot air gun on a med-high heat setting (~300 °C/~600 °F) on low airflow setting. This softens the adhesive holding the screen in place, making removal easier. Caution! The chassis can become very hot, as it is metal. Do not heat one area for a prolonged period of time, as it can permanently deform the plastic bezel surrounding the screen (or damage the LCD/digitizer, if it's a working one you intend to reuse).
This step I do not have exact instructions for, because my screen isn't broken. I had to be careful not to break it, as it was my only screen. You can use a knife to pry off broken pieces of glass.
WARNING: If you are removing a working intact display and intend to keep it that way, do NOT separate any of the LCD layers from the glass. As it is laminated, separating it will result in permanent damage to the display assembly.
I don't know what this copper does. It doesn't seem significant. New screen assemblies don't seem to have it. Also note that the screen is removed as a single piece assembly.
Step 20: Scrape off the copper bits and the old adhesive from the chassis using a tool of your choice, making sure to not damage anything else.
Step 21: Clean up your work area to prepare for re-assembly! Be careful of broken glass bits.
Obligatory exploded view pic:
Re-assembly
Now might be a good time to fix your grounding issues! If your touch issues arose from the increase of the device's temperature, you may have to cover the whole metallic back of the LCD with tape too.
Note: if the screen still has issues even when isolated as below, then the screen itself may be faulty.
To re-assemble it, it pretty much is just going through the steps in reverse order. When the phone is fully disassembled and nothing is adhered into place, now's the time to test your replacement screen assembly. You can do so by fitting the screen into the frame without using any adhesive, connect it to the logic board along with the battery and turn it on, or if you're lazy like me, just connect it up like this:
It is not recommended to keep the phone powered on for any longer than a few minutes like this, because the logic board effectively has no heatsink.
Step 1: As mentioned before, the old glue can no longer be reused, so we'll have to apply some adhesive tape, cut by hand. If this were a mainstream phone, it'd be pretty easy to get machine-cut 3M tape that fits the bezel perfectly, to ensure an optimal fit.
Sadly, this isn't the case, so we'll have to resort to rolls of that tape of various widths. You can buy these from eBay by searching "3M double sided repair tape".
Update: pre-cut tape is now an option! You can get it on AliExpress .
I personally used 1 mm for the side bezels and 3 mm for the top and bottom, but experiment to obtain maximum coverage. Make sure you don't cover any sensor holes. Usually, this tape in roll form isn't adequately thick, so double up and use two layers.
IMPORTANT: Check that there aren't remnants of broken glass on the bezel when you install the screen or tape. They can cause the screen to easily break.
Also check that you've moved the earpiece grille and capacitive key backlight pads (if the new screen doesn't have them) over from the old screen to the new one. And if you really want to, move the foam ring surrounding the front camera hole in the glass to. It prevents light from the LCD's backlight from leaking into view.
Step 2: Thread the flexes through their respective holes, and fit the screen into the chassis. Lightly heat the bezels (not too much; you don't want to damage the new LCD) to soften the adhesive, and place the screen face down on a clean, flat surface. Push down on the chassis with moderate force.
Step 3: Replace the rubber plastic block that sits in the digitizer flex slot.
Step 4: Make sure the proximity sensor, light sensor and front camera holes are clean and aren't covered by tape.
Step 5: If they were removed during the disassembly, replace the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex, then the USB port flex. Watch out for that weird bit that sticks out on the left ide of the speaker flex. Don't forget to reconnect the cellular antenna down the bottom.
Step 6: Put the earpiece back into the chassis. It should be oriented such that the two contact points are next to the digitizer flex.
Step 7: Reconnect the cellular antenna at the logic board. Do not push hardly unless you're absolutely sure it's aligned correctly.
Step 8: Tuck the antenna back into its groove.
Step 9: When reseating the logic board, ensure that the flex connectors stay clear from it. You don't want to have them end up underneath the logic board. Check that the board is flush with the screw holes.
Step 10: Make sure the front camera is also sitting flush. If it isn't, the camera cover may not fit, and the front camera will not be centered.
Step 11: Reconnect all the flex cables, and replace the logic board screw.
Step 12: Stick the button flexes back down onto the chassis.
Step 13: Straighten all the flex cables by lifting them up and stretching them towards the logic board, the stick them back down.
Step 14: Put the battery back in, then reconnect the flex.
Step 15: Replace the camera cover and screw it back into place.
Step 15b: Replace the tamper seal/water damage indicator (you won't get warranty either way, but might as well)
Step 16: Put the speaker assembly back in, and screw it into place.
Step 17: Replace all the rubber screw caps.
Step 18: Replace the StyleSwap cover, and put the SIM tray (with card) back in. Although the tray fits either way (like in Sony's Xperia Z series phones), the side with the gold contacts should face up when the phone faces down. Inserting it upside down will result in the phone not reading the SIM card, and risk damage to the internal SIM reader. LG, HTC and Apple's phones' SIM trays are designed to only fit one-way.
Step 19: Turn the phone on, and enjoy the results of your efforts!
Added to OnePlus One index thread:
[INDEX] OnePlus One Resources Compilation Roll-Up
Transmitted via Bacon
How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.
naithantu said:
How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.
timmaaa said:
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it should be possible to do it myself then, or at least give it a try
I'll probably order a new screen tomorrow, will post here in a month or so when the screen arrived
Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.
CyberActive said:
Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.
vantt1 said:
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen
CyberActive said:
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that tape is very similar to the type that's found on the inside of the iPhone 5's midframe. Apparently it's a "heat dissipation shield" film. You can probably buy it on eBay then trim it to the same shape as the original.
I don't know what that copper stuff that bridges the LCD to the frame is. I scraped off the bridging bits, and nothing seems off on my end.
Replace that O ring if you can. If you use the front camera, the backlight from the LCD might leak into view. I know it does on the Nexus 5.
Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.
CyberActive said:
Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stuff behind the LCD is more of a foam tape/film than a graphite tape. It feels similar to the one found behind the Nexus 5's LCD, but darker and smoother. And of course, the Nexus 5's isn't big enough.
The touchscreen fix involves putting tape on the chassis underneath the digitizer flex. If the issue was heat related, the metallic back of the LCD may need to be taped up too (apparently along the perimeter, creating a rectangle).
See above picture, circled in red: it looks like there's some heat dissipation tape underneath the LCD too.
Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.
CyberActive said:
Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment the best way to obtain it would probably be to take it out of your old frame. It's really hard to find OnePlus One specific parts these days.
guess I will have to go buy a heat gun over the next few days as I tried using a hair dryer and was not able to get even a little bit of movement on lifting the lcd from the frame.
I will post back over the new few days how it goes. fingers crossed.
I followed this guide and it was perfect!
The only downside is that when heating the screen i've managed seperate the plastic bezel from the screen it's self which is now out of shape as well. I'm hoping if i just heat it back up a little I can reform it back.
Just waiting on delivery of some repair tape.
hi guys i just send my one to repair for over 150€ because i thought it could only be changed as a wholle.. screen functions online half of the screen touchscreen doesnt work becuase of a small crack on the side.....SO DO I NEED JUST A NEW TOUCH DIGITIZER??? is this also with the corning glass on top?? mits not right??
Finally got everything I needed to go ahead with the screen replacement. This teardown was extremely helpful. I did have one snag and I haven't tested yet. When removing the earpiece it disassembled into two pieces and unwound but I gingerly repositioned the copper thread and left the earpiece in during the heating and old screen removal.
The new screen is outstanding and completely changes the experience of using the One Plus One. I only wish they had done better quality control in the first place.
Thanks for this guide. I'm going to order a new screen/digitizer today. I guess in about a month I'll be attempting this. When I broke my OnePlus I ordered a new one that day, so I plan on selling the second one if this repair is successful. If it's not, then I guess I lose $70 and some time. Wish me luck!
This is interesting. If appears a new battery technology would be nice guide.