That allows the micro usb to put out more voltage to support more usb storage devices that require more than the 100v of power that it puts out by default?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
It's impossible, it's an electronical limit, the device can't do it physicaly, that's all, sorry ^^
So will a powered usb hub work for that type of thing?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
iflip said:
So will a powered usb hub work for that type of thing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it will.
Great. But does the powered hub have to be the type that needs an a/c adapter or can it be a self powered hub? Sorry to be a nuisance with the questions.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
a bus powered hub wouldn't make any sense, would it? how should it get more power than the device can deliver by it's physical limits?
so answer is clear: No, only powered (yes, the ones with own batteries or A/C adapter) hubs will do the job.
I think he was talking about battery powered hub, and i think it could work ^^
Hehe, I can't believe nobody made a joke about saying 100v instead of 100mA.
Anyways, you could also splice 5v into your usb cable, either from a wall wart or from batteries, but if using batteries, I'd use a lithium ion pack and a boost converter, something like a Texas Instruments TPS55065QPWPRQ1.
msticninja said:
Hehe, I can't believe nobody made a joke about saying 100v instead of 100mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah dude, very funny joke...
chulri said:
Yeah dude, very funny joke...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I thought I was in the company of nerds here.
Thread moved to proper forum as not development
100mah yea my bad.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
iflip said:
100mah yea my bad.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, no problem. I mix things up all the time. I was just surprised someone hadn't jumped on you for it. But for the record, mA, not mAh. mAh is milliamp-hours, which refers to a batteries capacity, not the amount of current being consumed.
Okay, gotta get the OCD in check and stop correcting people now.
Seriously though, it wouldn't be hard to splice some power into a usb cable. Just slice through the outer sheath, melt a section of the sheathing off the red and black wires, and solder on a 5v wall adapter. Maybe a diode to shunt current only to the drive and not the archos, probably not necessary though.
To use batteries, you'll probably need to regulate the voltage. Most usb MCUs only accept about 4.5v to 6v, so 4 AA batteries(1.5Ah/6v) being drawn at ~400mA would probably sag under 4.5v pretty quickly. Thus, you'd need lithium ion, but you can only get them at 3.7 or 7.2 volts, meaning it would need to be voltage (and amperage) regulated.
Maybe there's enough demand for me to build a prototype and have it produced? It would probably run $40-60 USD if mass produced, but you could build one at home for $20 if you have a spare usb cable.
Hey msticninja
msticninja said:
Seriously though, it wouldn't be hard to splice some power into a usb cable. Just slice through the outer sheath, melt a section of the sheathing off the red and black wires, and solder on a 5v wall adapter. Maybe a *diode to shunt current only to the drive and not the archos, probably not necessary though.
To use batteries, you'll probably need to regulate the voltage. Most usb MCUs only accept about 4.5v to 6v, so 4 AA batteries(1.5Ah/6v) being drawn at ~400mA would probably sag under 4.5v pretty quickly. Thus, you'd need lithium ion, but you can only get them at 3.7 or 7.2 volts, meaning it would need to be voltage (and amperage)...
..........but you could build one at home for $20 if you have a spare usb cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there any links to detailed online instructions on how to build that setup? I really need this. (it would help me earn extra cash)
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
I just ordered one of these:
tinyurl.com/3mzzzz5
in hopes to deal with the above problem. It claims to have a built-in battery (in other ads for this product), but unsure of it's capacity (700 mA perhaps). Reading between the lines on other poorly translated ads it claims to be able to power a hard drive (a 2.5" laptop drive I'm assuming). It also comes with a boat-load of adapters to all kinds of small devices, so I figure it might be useful elsewhere if it doesn't work out for this.
Anyway when I get it, I'll report back on how well it works.
Thanks. It looks promising. And if our works I'm definitely gonna get one.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
wartstew said:
I just ordered one of these:
tinyurl.com/3mzzzz5
in hopes to deal with the above problem. It claims to have a built-in battery (in other ads for this product), but unsure of it's capacity (700 mA perhaps). Reading between the lines on other poorly translated ads it claims to be able to power a hard drive (a 2.5" laptop drive I'm assuming). It also comes with a boat-load of adapters to all kinds of small devices, so I figure it might be useful elsewhere if it doesn't work out for this.
Anyway when I get it, I'll report back on how well it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the general idea, but the hub may need drivers that android doesn't have, and don't expect much from the solar cell. I'm guessing less than 100mA in bright sun, but it'll be interesting to see. A 2.5 inch drive should be able to power off the host USB, but if you connect two through that hub, I doubt you'll be able to get a good spin up.
Iflip: This is basically what you want to build: http://www.ladyada.net/make/mintyboost/
You would just need to add another usb port connected directly to the pins of the port he's using to charge from. The "minty charger" would supply the extra mA, and the data pins would connect straight through the two usb ports into the Archos, so you wouldn't have to worry about drivers or anything.
Basically, if you can find any USB charger, and add another port to it, so both the archos and the hard drive can be plugged into the same charger, you'd be golden.(As long as you connect the data pins on both together) You could even add a port to an old Ipod wall charger, anything that provides power to usb devices. You just have to add another port to it, matching the 4 pins, which is easy. +5v to +5v, ground to ground, data + to data +, and data - to data -. I think you get the picture.
iflip said:
That allows the micro usb to put out more voltage to support more usb storage devices that require more than the 100v of power that it puts out by default?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes there is.
A very bad a simple hack can provide more than 100mA to the USB port.
I had 1 usb key working and others not working due to this limitation. This got me really upset!
I've search the kernel sources, hacked quickly the kernel, build a new one, flashed it on my A70S running UrukDroid 1.0, and voila! My key is now working (with a 200mA limit on the port instead of 100mA)
Here is the kernel/initramfs for UrukDroid 1.0 build with $auron kernel sources (1.1b3 kernel).
It has Cgroups with cpuacct based on UID grouping (like HTC does on the Desire), but the rest is pretty much standard and is build with $auron's settings.
Flash it with SDE.
Don't blame me tho if you toast your USB port! It's working for me with a USB key, it may not with a USB hdd. I've set the limit to 200mA and not 500.
eagleofdeath13 said:
It's impossible, it's an electronical limit, the device can't do it physicaly, that's all, sorry ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you 100% sure? I'm getting apparently more than 100mA out of my USB to power my greedy USB flash disk
Cheap battery powered USB hub worked with my A70S
So I bought a DTech DT-4012 from tmart.com and it [mostly] worked with my A70s!
It is a cheap solar & battery powered USB hub.
It powered a USB mouse and keyboard just fine. This is real handy especially when you are trying to use the A70 with an external display through the HDMI an HDMI cable. I get a normal mouse pointer and a functional keyboard.
It even powered a 2.5" laptop hard drive, but only for about a minute or two, enough time for at least my A70S so mount the file system, but not much more.
Of course it powered less power hungry things like USB "thumb" drives and card readers fine too, this included ones that the A70 could not power by itself.
The thing contains a [small] 700mA Li-ion battery and a voltage converter that produces a steady 5V out the USB ports for as long as it can. It is possible that the short run time for the hard drive could be an overheating problem with the voltage converter that might be solvable with an addition of a small heat sink. It is also possible that I don't have a full charge on the battery yet (although it claimed it did as the "charging light" went out), but this was the units first time use so the battery might just need some cycling. I'll investigate all these ideas further.
The unit does NOT have a connector for external power but I'm thinking of adding one so I can plug in AC adatpers and/or larger battery packs. This is assuming this is what is needed to get reasonable life running a 2.5" hard drive.
Oh and on the solar cell: I don't expect much power from the approx 2" diameter cell, it would probaby charge a small mobile phone about 1/2 way if you left it out in the sun all day. It is probably more useful as a trickle-float charger for the internal battery as in average ambient light might keep the battery topped off as it is being stored.
Finally the thing comes with all kinds of USB adapter cables for mostly older mobile phones. Could be useful to some.
Related
I think there is a serious problem with my charging circuit on this phone. I have no idea if its hardware or software that is controlling the charging circuit but I can tell you that it literally takes forever to charge my phone via USB and this is unacceptable from a consumer standpoint.
I wanted to see how much current the phone was asking for and I was really surprised to see 96mA!!!
No wonder its charging so slow, something is really wrong here, and It doesnt look like a faulty battery. The phone should be asking for 10x this much current.
Can some people post how much current their phones are drawing from the usb port?
If you dont know how to do this, in "device manager" double click on the appropriate "usb root hub" that your phone is connected to and click on the "power" tab. Post results.
You are trying to charge your device on a pc correct?
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
500mah is the max just about any phone will charge at from a usb port, at least without any modifications like fast charge drivers.
USB current, for charging purposes, is and always will be low. Otherwise you would burn up your motherboard. Alternatively it would let the magic smoke out of your phone and it would quit working properly.
Sent from Bonsai 6
+1 to the two posts above me. I suggest getting a wall adapter for your usb and charging it there, you will get vastly superior charging times
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
Top Nurse said:
USB current, for charging purposes, is and always will be low. Otherwise you would burn up your motherboard. Alternatively it would let the magic smoke out of your phone and it would quit working properly.
Sent from Bonsai 6
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB current, for charging purposes, should be and always be 500mA. 96mA is not enough to charge one of these phones. You cannot burn up your mother board if the device calls for more than 500mA, as that is all that is available for each usb port.
Ive connected three of my old phones and an EVO and a mytouch Slide, they all ask for the maximum allowed current as they should. I do have a wall charger and it charges fine, Im trying to see if everyone else has the same USB charging problem as me, or if I have a broken phone, or if I just have some bad software on my phone.
Please if anyone can post results it will be helpful.
Hello again,
My G2 is asking for 500ma
Sent from my overclocked G2
PaganAng3l said:
Hello again,
My G2 is asking for 500ma
Sent from my overclocked G2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks but can you please post results for the an EPIC 4G phone?
Connected to a PC USB port, the Epic 4G will only draw 380ma. Via a wall charger is will only draw 600ma. Hence why charging on a PC is slower. Simple as that.
I also show exactly 96 mA, regardless of which USB port I am plugged into. Practically new motherboard, so I know the USB current isn't an issue. New Blackberry USB cable (far superior to stock Samsung cables).
IIRC, 500ma is the max draw per hub, not USB port. This is why people get powered add on hubs so they can have components that take more draw than a computer USB port will give.
Sent from Bonsai 6
Top Nurse said:
IIRC, 500ma is the max draw per hub, not USB port. This is why people get powered add on hubs so they can have components that take more draw than a computer USB port will give.
Sent from Bonsai 6
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
500Ma is NOT the per 'hub' power supplied, 500Ma is the PER PORT current max. EACH port on the motherboard will supply up to 500Ma, trying to draw more will not work. It won't burn it out, it just won't supply any more than that. If you have 8 ports on your MOBO, you will get a total of 4A of current in total, not exceeding 500Ma per port. If you hookup an UNPOWERED hub to your mobo, the total draw still cannot exceed the 500Ma. If the hub is powered, it will provide 500Ma to each port on it, and draw virtually none from the MOBO.
This is why you see some external devices with dual USB cords, or a single with a Y. This is because it will combine the 500Ma from each port to power the device for up to 1A of current.
96Ma will not charge the phone, it's not even enough to power the phone while making a call.
How are you measuring your current draw? Try other USB devices. Wall charging takes between 2 and 3hrs to charge depending if the phone is on and its current draw for what it's doing.
Top Nurse said:
USB current, for charging purposes, is and always will be low. Otherwise you would burn up your motherboard. Alternatively it would let the magic smoke out of your phone and it would quit working properly.
Sent from Bonsai 6
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty much every USB host device I've used can easily deliver 1A. Most new machines can deliver 2A (such as ASUS boards and Macs) over USB. The Epic still charges way too slowly even off a wall charger. It'd be nice if it drew 1A instead of ~600mA. Most other devices use much higher charge currents when plugged into AC.
As for the Epic's charge current, I think the USB driver on it just reports charge current incorrectly.
Orbiting234 said:
Connected to a PC USB port, the Epic 4G will only draw 380ma. Via a wall charger is will only draw 600ma. Hence why charging on a PC is slower. Simple as that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks to the two people, that haven't been derailing this thread into a "how usb ports work discussion".
if anyone wants to help instead of arguing over how usb ports work, it would be really helpful to know what rom and kernel you are using when you tested your epic 4g device.
Im especially interested to know this information about orbiting who is getting 380mA. Im also interested in how you measured measured the 600mA from the wall charger.
Its posted at the end of the OP how to see how much current your phone is asking for.
I think the charge controler on the Epic will alter the current draw depending on how close it is to fully charged . Once it gets above about 90% charge the current should taper off. this is to prolong the battery life.
The Normal charging times starting at about 30% is under 3 hours on a wall charger for me. I can go from about 70% to 100% om my laptop in about an hour.
poit said:
I think the charge controler on the Epic will alter the current draw depending on how close it is to fully charged . Once it gets above about 90% charge the current should taper off. this is to prolong the battery life.
The Normal charging times starting at about 30% is under 3 hours on a wall charger for me. I can go from about 70% to 100% om my laptop in about an hour.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already know this, and its not what I asked for.
poit said:
I think the charge controler on the Epic will alter the current draw depending on how close it is to fully charged . Once it gets above about 90% charge the current should taper off. this is to prolong the battery life.
The Normal charging times starting at about 30% is under 3 hours on a wall charger for me. I can go from about 70% to 100% om my laptop in about an hour.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mrhocuspocus said:
I already know this, and its not what I asked for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appologize for wasting your time, but let me elaborate.
Right now my phone is at 89% charge, and right now the "Power Required" field in the USB root properties is showing 96 ma. I doubt that is an actual measured current, more likely it's what the port controller on the Epic reports as a minimum current required. What I can tell you is that even with that info, my phone charges fine. Seems unlikely that it's only supplying 96ma because I'd expect the phone must draw 40 ma or so just to idle.
What would be more useful would be an app on the phone that polled the charge controller to give us actual voltage and current data. I had one on my old TP2 that was great, but I don't know about one for Android.
Edit: in the time it took to type this reply the State of Charge went from 89 to 92%, yet the properties still shows 96 ma. I think the controller is getting way more than 96ma, so that number is likely bogus.
I guess that wasn't what you asked for either, but maybe it is stilll useful
poit said:
the USB root properties is showing 96 ma. I doubt that is an actual measured current, more likely it's what the port controller on the Epic reports as a minimum current required.
I guess that wasn't what you asked for either, but maybe it is stilll useful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no need to apologize, I could explain to you why what you think is "more likely" is actually less likely. but it would only further derail this thread. feel free to pm me if you are interested.
all im interested in is three things:
current asked for by phone from pc usb, rom version, and kernel version.
someone already reported 380mA. but i have no idea what software he is on.
I'm running completely stock EB13. On my newer laptop with Windows 7 it shows 96mA in the device manager. On my ancient Dell PC at work running XP, it shows 96mA as well. In both cases I'm plugging the phone directly into a USB port, no external hubs.
xxmastermindxx said:
I also show exactly 96 mA, regardless of which USB port I am plugged into. Practically new motherboard, so I know the USB current isn't an issue. New Blackberry USB cable (far superior to stock Samsung cables).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm running the latest Syndicate 1.0.1 with their latest 1.0.3 kernel. My quote above is when I was running Syndicate 1.0.0 and kernel 1.0.1.
If I go back to stock for some reason, I'll post those numbers up too.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA Premium App
why? why did motorola use a proprietary charging cable? it would of been so nice to have a micro usb cable to charge the xoom. im very worried one day that needle proprietary cable going to break and it wont charge my xoom anymore.
it seems like motorola is a HUGE fan or proprietary cables, especially the v60 series flip phones.
fondoo said:
why? why did motorola use a proprietary charging cable? it would of been so nice to have a micro usb cable to charge the xoom. im very worried one day that needle proprietary cable going to break and it wont charge my xoom anymore.
it seems like motorola is a HUGE fan or proprietary cables, especially the v60 series flip phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All the latest tablets have proprietary cables...
fondoo said:
why? why did motorola use a proprietary charging cable? it would of been so nice to have a micro usb cable to charge the xoom. im very worried one day that needle proprietary cable going to break and it wont charge my xoom anymore.
it seems like motorola is a HUGE fan or proprietary cables, especially the v60 series flip phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simple, many recent tablets use proprietary cables to allow higher current and faster charge times.
The average usb cable hooked up to your pc provides about 500mA
The proprietary cable for a modern tablet like the XOOM can deliver around
1.5A
With a micro USB cable it would take forever to charge the XOOM. Then people would be complaining about why the XOOM takes so incredibly long to charge, and bashing motorola for the problem. Instead Motorola chose to do it the intelligent way, by separating the charge function to a proprietary cable to allow very fast charging, and including the usb cable for data transfer.
When I see a proprietary cable I don't think - crap why do they do it this way. Instead I think wow great, that means this thing was designed for fast charges.
Digital Man said:
Simple, many recent tablets use proprietary cables to allow higher current and faster charge times.
The average usb cable hooked up to your pc provides about 500mA
The proprietary cable for a modern tablet like the XOOM can deliver around
1.5A
With a micro USB cable it would take forever to charge the XOOM. Then people would be complaining about why the XOOM takes so incredibly long to charge, and bashing motorola for the problem. Instead Motorola chose to do it the intelligent way, by separating the charge function to a proprietary cable to allow very fast charging, and including the usb cable for data transfer.
When I see a proprietary cable I don't think - crap why do they do it this way. Instead I think wow great, that means this thing was designed for fast charges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANK YOU lol finally someone that understands.....
plus, the input voltage in to the tab is 12v, hard to get 12v from a 5v USB supply...
For a bit more info, I too wondered about USB charging. The limit seems to be when the Xoom is running, the current drain can be upwards of 400 mA so I could see a situation where a USB charger at 500 mA would overload if you did too much on the Xoom during charging. That would be good enough reason to avoid that design mess. "Do not use during charging" would not be sufficent protection. The Moto Mains Charger manages 1500 mA for a couple of hours which is wonderful. Now if only I could charge my Nexus S that quickly
xtkxhom3r said:
THANK YOU lol finally someone that understands.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
right? about time
I am really glad that trickle charging is not possible with the Xoom, saves a lot of problems...I just wish they had used a different connector for the power. Something a bit more durable and commonly included in third party multichargers would have been nice...but one can't have everything.
I still support the seperate power cable choice for all kinds of reasons.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA Premium App
Just amazes me that folks will complain about anything and everything. Good grief, it charges in no time and runs more than a day when it does. What more can you expect?
I like the idea of a separate charger, but the only thing I take issue with is the design of the charger it self. Luckily, I just set mine on the dock before bed. The dock doesn't use that flimsy pin, it uses the two gold plates at the bottom to charge.
Kcarpenter said:
I like the idea of a separate charger, but the only thing I take issue with is the design of the charger it self. Luckily, I just set mine on the dock before bed. The dock doesn't use that flimsy pin, it uses the two gold plates at the bottom to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
going to have to look into that dock cause i'm not to fond of the charger that it has. so the avg. use time is about a day, are you guys mod or heavy users(as you can tell i dont have mine yet ordered and waiting for it to show up)trying to get as much real world use info as i can
i love the proprietary cable. It is SOOO much faster. My Galaxy tab with a 4000 mAH battery took almost 4 hours to charge and i was lucky to get two days usage out of it (standby time and normal usage combined). My Xoom (no idea on mAH size) charges in 2 hours and i get 90 hours usage out of it (mainly standby but still a lot of screen on time, wiht a much larger and brighter screen to power). LOVE it.
Yeah I wouldn't worry about the Cable its seems durable, only thing I AM worried about was how you plug the wires all on the side of the device, I feel like there's abit of give on the wires when holding it sideways, I wish it was more like the iPad.
You know the first time I saw that the tablets used a seperate charging cable I was like, "why?" but then I stopped and think, there's no why a USB (let alone a micro-USB) can charge those suckers, so I'm personally glade that tablet makers did what they did and make it seperate.
I just wish they chose a 30-pin connector instead of this tiny one. The slightest mistake while it's charging (like say you trip over the cord), and there goes your xoom for repair/replacement.
Lets not rule out USB charging. Yes, I love going from 5% to 100% in about an hour. But I also have USB plugged in for hours on end when doing my thang. . That being said, we do not know for certain that USB charge is a hardware limitation. Yes, USB puts out 500mV. But I can tell the kernel to suck in whatever. If the hardware is capable, its doable.
I still think the option should have been given to us. Cuz many if not all of us have micro USB around. I for one only take a single micro USB in my pocket for my phone. So its would have Been nice to be able to charge both device with one charger. But I mean scull charge usually carry me all day. So I don't see it as a major problem right now.
Sent from my Xoom using XDA Premium App
bigrushdog said:
Lets not rule out USB charging. Yes, I love going from 5% to 100% in about an hour. But I also have USB plugged in for hours on end when doing my thang. . That being said, we do not know for certain that USB charge is a hardware limitation. Yes, USB puts out 500mV. But I can tell the kernel to suck in whatever. If the hardware is capable, its doable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
e
Its actually 500mA not 500mV. Usb provides 5 volts at 500ma for usb 2.0 and that will be picked up to 900ma in usb 3.0. Even with this in mind it isn't the biggest problem with stoppinh usb charging in the xoom. The issue I believe is in the fact that the current charger is 12 volts and 1.5 amps. That's more than twice the volts at tripl the amperes.
Even beyond the amperage issue charging a battery that is set up to input from a 12 volt source with a 5 volts supply, even if it was possible with existing xoom hardware it would take forever!
I wish there was a way to have both options available for charging. Use the USB if you have no access to a AC adapter, albeit, a slower charge.
It seems that there's a false dichotomy here; the options aren't only trickle charge by usb and wall adapter with the proprietary connection. What about a wall charge via the usb port? I don't see why the usb port couldn't be used for the charge. I can trickle charge my n1 or I can plug it into an outlet, which charges the phone much faster. I'm sure the xoom could have been designed to suck in more power when conected to an outlet.
The only plus with the proprietary port is that we can charge and have the xoom connected to a computer or peripheral at the same time.
Hi,
any way to accomplish this ? To be more clear, batteries will get a shorter life from the current work regime that I put them to, Unfortunately, the USB data cable of most phones also acts as a charger. I am using the phone for development, so this USB data cable is always attached to the phone and to the dev machine, thus forcing the battery to always charge, even at the slightest 1% discharge. It would be really good if I could take out the battery and still be able to run the phone.
Thank you!
kelogs said:
Hi,
any way to accomplish this ? To be more clear, batteries will get a shorter life from the current work regime that I put them to, Unfortunately, the USB data cable of most phones also acts as a charger. I am using the phone for development, so this USB data cable is always attached to the phone and to the dev machine, thus forcing the battery to always charge, even at the slightest 1% discharge. It would be really good if I could take out the battery and still be able to run the phone.
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Depends on the phone, I know on the moto defy there was a cable mod that would bypass the battery
Sent from my GT-I9300T using xda app-developers app
adamo3957 said:
Depends on the phone, I know on the moto defy there was a cable mod that would bypass the battery
Sent from my GT-I9300T using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be a Samsung Galaxy Note GT-N7000
i didn't know it is possible!
Some (most?) battery circuits are designed to deal with a dead or shorted battery.
The circuit is not arranged in a direct line between charger, battery, load.
Disconnecting a battery connector also disconnects the temperature-measuring thermistor.
With a NTC thermistor, it would think that the battery is ice cold.
A resistor of the correct value would fool it into believing it's a reasonable temperature.
I tried disconnecting the battery on my Nook and it wouldn't power up.
3,7V supply circuit as battery
You can supply the device with 3,7V (like the battery) from an external source. The only thing bad is that you have to attach wires to the gold plated battery slots on the device, or you can do it with small crocodile clips to avoid soldering. (better)
If you are ok with this, here is how you do it.
Take off your battery and measure voltage DC with a multimeter or voltmeter between battery leads. Now you know what your battery gives to the device. Example for 3 leads battery: you have 2 positive leads with the ground as reference (one slightly lower than the other) and the actual ground. So you have to supply with 3,7V the same leads that the battery was supplying. You can check while inserting the battery back to the device.
Hot to have the 3,7 Volts supply:
You will need 2 resistors, some capacitors, LM317 regulator, heat sink for that and a higher voltage DC power supply 6-12V.
Get and android device and go to play store. Install "Electrodroid" application. This will help you on sizing the LM317 regulator. Have in mind that this is programmable regulator, so you need 2 resistors to set the output voltage as 3,7V. LM317 is a linear voltage regulator, so it will act as uninterrupted 3,7 Volt battery. Be carefull to get a big heat sink, depending on the current you will be supplying and input voltage, also you can read this device datasheet online.
You can build this circuit on a breadboard if you are familiar with electronics or you can solder point to point the parts, or make a pcb if you can.
You're lucky it's N7000
full schemas are there - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813315
PMIC's pin "_DETBAT" is connected to "VF" of battery connector. Perhaps if you pull it high it'll bootup.
And btw - usually HW is fully capable of starting off USB power. The thing is that bootloader does check if battery is present and, if not, turns off the phone. Actually this is because phone, especially during bootup, can peak to much more than 500mA current, and battery is there to compensate "missing" power.
//edit:
However, in case you don't provide any power into battery pins, it might try to charge it and U607 - Switching Charger might not really like working without load. This can generate alot of noise around AFAIK so modding kernel somehow to disable charging would be good choice.
Rebellos said:
You're lucky it's N7000
full schemas are there - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813315
PMIC's pin "_DETBAT" is connected to "VF" of battery connector. Perhaps if you pull it high it'll bootup.
And btw - usually HW is fully capable of starting off USB power. The thing is that bootloader does check if battery is present and, if not, turns off the phone. Actually this is because phone, especially during bootup, can peak to much more than 500mA current, and battery is there to compensate "missing" power.
//edit:
However, in case you don't provide any power into battery pins, it might try to charge it and U607 - Switching Charger might not really like working without load. This can generate alot of noise around AFAIK so modding kernel somehow to disable charging would be good choice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The system is powered off of Vbat - As a result, the charger MUST be active. Also, the N7000 is EASILY capable of drawing more than the maximum input current limit from Vbus, mandating extraction of power from the battery in some operating regimes.
The only way to achieve what the OP wants (total battery removal) would be with a dummy battery that had an external 4.0 volt power supply. Bad Things could happen if the device is connected to USB in this state.
However, to satisfy the OP's stated reasons for removing the battery (lots of time on USB), the likely best solution would be to disable the charging circuitry in the kernel at high states of charge. For example, one could set it up so that the charger would only be enabled when Vbat was below 4.0 volts, or when the fuel gauge SoC is below X per cent. See Ezekeel's "BLX" implementation for the Galaxy Nexus as one example of this.
thanks!
rebellos said:
you're lucky it's n7000
full schemas are there - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813315
pmic's pin "_detbat" is connected to "vf" of battery connector. Perhaps if you pull it high it'll bootup.
And btw - usually hw is fully capable of starting off usb power. The thing is that bootloader does check if battery is present and, if not, turns off the phone. Actually this is because phone, especially during bootup, can peak to much more than 500ma current, and battery is there to compensate "missing" power.
//edit:
However, in case you don't provide any power into battery pins, it might try to charge it and u607 - switching charger might not really like working without load. This can generate alot of noise around afaik so modding kernel somehow to disable charging would be good choice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the link1
Thank you all for sharing knowledge and experiences. I have made the decision to just go for some cheap ebay replacement batteries due to some advice I got from a friend, which I am sharing below:
Do not fiddle with such a fine piece of hardware (i.e. smartphone) by attaching some exposed wirings to it. The gadget could easily slip from your hands and cause the loosely hanging wirings to short-circuit upon landing on the floor. Definitely not a good perspective.
a
kelogs said:
Thank you all for sharing knowledge and experiences. I have made the decision to just go for some cheap ebay replacement batteries due to some advice I got from a friend, which I am sharing below:
Do not fiddle with such a fine piece of hardware (i.e. smartphone) by attaching some exposed wirings to it. The gadget could easily slip from your hands and cause the loosely hanging wirings to short-circuit upon landing on the floor. Definitely not a good perspective.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh give a f***ing break! It's a phone not an egg shell. And short-circuiting the wires would at worst damage the power supply not the phone.
Entropy512 said:
The system is powered off of Vbat - As a result, the charger MUST be active. .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This just isn't true. Modern PMIC not only have the option to stop charging the battery, but to charge the phone only on AC and also do things like send power the the USB OTG. So it is a matter of the PMIC knowing what to do. What I wish was possible was a nice app that told the PMIC to stop charging at 80% and then go to trickle mode. This would save your battery life by a lot, instead it appears to charge to 100% then back off the voltage a little.
bypass battery on unibody phone and run directly from charger
Entropy512 said:
The system is powered off of Vbat - As a result, the charger MUST be active. Also, the N7000 is EASILY capable of drawing more than the maximum input current limit from Vbus, mandating extraction of power from the battery in some operating regimes.
The only way to achieve what the OP wants (total battery removal) would be with a dummy battery that had an external 4.0 volt power supply. Bad Things could happen if the device is connected to USB in this state.
However, to satisfy the OP's stated reasons for removing the battery (lots of time on USB), the likely best solution would be to disable the charging circuitry in the kernel at high states of charge. For example, one could set it up so that the charger would only be enabled when Vbat was below 4.0 volts, or when the fuel gauge SoC is below X per cent. See Ezekeel's "BLX" implementation for the Galaxy Nexus as one example of this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This would just disable the charging until the SoC dropped to the level you set though, correct? I.e. the phone is still running from the battery..? If so you still end up with more or less the same issue (although with some potential benefits depending from cycling at lower SoC).
I have a HTC One X so removing the battery and adding some circuit trickory isn't an option. But bc of this damn unibody even more motivation to run the phone directly from the charger bc I can't feed it with replacement batteries. ( which he is right thats the best options for the OP)
Anyone know if this is even possible with software mods based on the design of the phone charging system? Or any sources for literature on this. I really wanna save this battery if its the only one I got!
I am currently experimenting with this. I suppose I can only get 3 volts from the 5V input of a usb charger. Going to need to hook up to a 12v power source I suppose. Built this power supply, linear variable voltage regulator. Going to still want that data transfer. I am using diodes to make sure no power goes the wrong way into my electrolytic capacitors. I will try to post a thread if it works because I have not seen one yet.
Hello, sorry to post in an old thread, but this is the closest problem to mine that I could find.
So I'm using a 4G mi-fi modem on my PC. It's plugged in constantly 24/7 through USB cable to my PC. You can imagine the effect on the battery. I threw out 2 batteries coz they've gone bad. Sadly the modem won't turn on if it's not detecting a battery.
So I'm considering the capacitor route, just to fool the modem into thinking that a battery is installed, the real power comes from USB data cable anyway. It's a Huawei E5577, the battery got 4 terminals on it. The outermost terminals are (+) and (-), while I'm guessing the middle two are used to read the battery status (voltage, etc). So what's the simplest schematic to achieve this, using simplest capacitor circuit to fool the modem into thinking the battery is installed and working well.
Thank you
Does it charge with Micro USB? Or is there separate charger that would allow for simultaneous OTG & charging? If so, is it a samsung proprietary cable?
one port. I don't see why people are all upset with a tablet having one micro-USB port? What I would do to have micro USB on my Asus transformer prime, so damn annoying!
ANd plugging into a PC will charge slowly for most phones, and it depends on tablets, some do some don't. Even then, who leaves their tablet plugged into their PC all day anyways, a big no-no for phones as we all already know, won't charge very quickly...
Are the pogo pins not for charging?
matt11601 said:
Are the pogo pins not for charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They can charge as well when the tablet is in a dock (if that ever happens...). The pogo pins are not the primary charging method when not in a dock.
Samzebian said:
one port. I don't see why people are all upset with a tablet having one micro-USB port? What I would do to have micro USB on my Asus transformer prime, so damn annoying!
ANd plugging into a PC will charge slowly for most phones, and it depends on tablets, some do some don't. Even then, who leaves their tablet plugged into their PC all day anyways, a big no-no for phones as we all already know, won't charge very quickly...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah.. well for one thing, I would say the primary reason is the one I just stated: simultaneous OTG + charging.
There are users out there that do not like the limitation of having no MicroSD card.. The closest thing, without microSD, is OTG. But the problem is that you cannot constantly use it or the battery will empty [also using battery cycles, that could have otherwise been avoided, and saved for when you really need them].
So may I ask where you got this conclusion? I would like to show it to someone.
Would a usb splitter work if you wanted the device to have two ports? Just a thought.
Initial_G said:
Would a usb splitter work if you wanted the device to have two ports? Just a thought.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, you'd be trying to charge the device, while it is giving out power on the same wires, to the USB OTG device.
The only way to fix it is with a kernel patch to disable outgoing power, and accept a charge with OTG.
Can't you buy an charger that fits the pogo pins. Not from google, of course.
Send from my lovely Sensation XL, from a little town in france with a very very slow internet connection.
If I succeed helping you (rare) don't forget to hit the thanks button
insevanhouts said:
Can't you buy an charger that fits the pogo pins. Not from google, of course.
Send from my lovely Sensation XL, from a little town in france with a very very slow internet connection.
If I succeed helping you (rare) don't forget to hit the thanks button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maybe..but on the Nexus 7, when you plugged in OTG storage, it would not charge with the pogo pins--at least I'm pretty sure I read this on xda.
so it might be like this on the Nexus 10 too, I dunno.. I guess we'll find out soon.
mvmacd said:
ah.. well for one thing, I would say the primary reason is the one I just stated: simultaneous OTG + charging.
There are users out there that do not like the limitation of having no MicroSD card.. The closest thing, without microSD, is OTG. But the problem is that you cannot constantly use it or the battery will empty [also using battery cycles, that could have otherwise been avoided, and saved for when you really need them].
So may I ask where you got this conclusion? I would like to show it to someone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was referring to charging/microUSB ports, had nothing to do with MicroSD card slots
Samzebian said:
I was referring to charging/microUSB ports, had nothing to do with MicroSD card slots
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I meant, you asked why people were upset it just had one micro usb port [instead of--I assume--a charging port, and then an additional micro usb], and I said it is [at least for me] because it makes it harder to properly use external storage [that's needed for some people because of the lack of micro sd].
is there an official spec sheet that shows it charges via its only micro usb port?
Hi everyone, I was wondering what type of micro usb port was on the Nexus 10, I cant seem to find any close up photos, I am a noob when it comes to tablet and smartphones, but after looking around for OTG cables and such for my futur N10, I came accros micro usb type A which is bigger and thicker, and micro usb type B which is nice and thin, so I'm kind of confused, which type do I need for N10, can anyone fill me in?
Sorry if I posted this in the wrong thread, but it would probably of been silly to start one for such an easy question . ^^
mvmacd said:
Does it charge with Micro USB? Or is there separate charger that would allow for simultaneous OTG & charging? If so, is it a samsung proprietary cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, via a normal charger adapter. The USB cable is pluggable to the charger.
br, josh.
mvmacd said:
ah.. well for one thing, I would say the primary reason is the one I just stated: simultaneous OTG + charging.
There are users out there that do not like the limitation of having no MicroSD card.. The closest thing, without microSD, is OTG. But the problem is that you cannot constantly use it or the battery will empty [also using battery cycles, that could have otherwise been avoided, and saved for when you really need them].
So may I ask where you got this conclusion? I would like to show it to someone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but then buy a tablet that has a MicroSD. The Nexus series doesn't have MicroSD. If you don't like that, there are other options.
They have the right chips. I read the actual quick charge 2.0 will charge faster than the fast charge the phones come with. But then I thought, since the chips are there, would some simple mods make this work?
delete this someone ......answered my own question
Hmmm... interesting question...
When thinking back to how certain kernels could enable faster charging when connected via USB to pc, maybe this is possible...
Sent from my Nexus 5
Quick Charge by Qualcomm ups the voltage to as high as 12V, I believe. The fast charging in the new Nexus line is at a constant 5V. If the phone's internals (which goes way beyond just having a Qualcomm CPU) is unable to handle increased voltages, well... I'll remind you that lithium is a reactive alkaline metal. Burns and skin grafts hurt.
Elnrik said:
Quick Charge by Qualcomm ups the voltage to as high as 12V, I believe. The fast charging in the new Nexus line is at a constant 5V. If the phone's internals (which goes way beyond just having a Qualcomm CPU) is unable to handle increased voltages, well... I'll remind you that lithium is a reactive alkaline metal. Burns and skin grafts hurt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This makes buying chargers so difficult. I was on Amazon just to see if I could find a car charger for this and it is difficult to know what won't blow up your phone.
It won't blow up. =)
jackdubl said:
This makes buying chargers so difficult. I was on Amazon just to see if I could find a car charger for this and it is difficult to know what won't blow up your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would hold off on buying anything just yet. It looks like USB-C to USB-C will be the only way to take advantage of 3A/5V (15W) charging.
osi13 said:
I would hold off on buying anything just yet. It looks like USB-C to USB-C will be the only way to take advantage of 3A/5V (15W) charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks like USB 3.1 USB-C to USB-C will be the only way to take advantage of 3A/5V (15W) charging.
Fixed.
USB-C, aka - USB Type-C, is the plug type. USB 3.1 is the bus standard with correct voltage/amperage outputs.
Elnrik said:
It looks like USB 3.1 USB-C to USB-C will be the only way to take advantage of 3A/5V (15W) charging.
Fixed.
USB-C, aka - USB Type-C, is the plug type. USB 3.1 is the bus standard with correct voltage/amperage outputs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's pretty much exactly what I said. Here is the best guide I've seen explaining everything.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Nexus6P/comments/3nyd8k/20151008_the_final_word_on_the_nexus_6p5x_fast/
AFAIK USB 3.1 has nothing to do with it.
osi13 said:
That's pretty much exactly what I said. Here is the best guide I've seen explaining everything.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Nexus6P/comments/3nyd8k/20151008_the_final_word_on_the_nexus_6p5x_fast/
AFAIK USB 3.1 has nothing to do with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, yes, I see what you're saying. I just read the spec docs from USB.org about it. Type-C is truly defined outside of the USB 3.1 specs. The USB 3.1 spec sheet makes no reference to Type-C in section 5.2.1.
Haven't made it through the type-c spec doc yet. I'll keep reading.