Database Users

8525 won't vibrate

I have read threads about people who have dropped their phone and lose the vibrate on their phones...
I however have not dropped my phone and lost the vibrate. This sucks! I don't have a warranty as this was purchased off of ebay.
Any idea's? Is it the consensus that the vibration motor clip inside the back cover is the culprit and somehow is no longer making contact?

ironbear said:
I have read threads about people who have dropped their phone and lose the vibrate on their phones...
I however have not dropped my phone and lost the vibrate. This sucks! I don't have a warranty as this was purchased off of ebay.
Any idea's? Is it the consensus that the vibration motor clip inside the back cover is the culprit and somehow is no longer making contact?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before assuming something physical I would double check everything else. The obvious -settings that turn on/off vibrate, any phone related software I might have installed. Then I would try a hard reset and test the vibrate funtion without any new software installed. (make a backup first though - if it turns out to be a hardware issue you can restore this backup)
If it looks like the motor contacts then it's a pretty simple fix. Remove back and adjust the motors spring contacts.
Just remember to align the camera macro's toggle arm when putting case back on
Mike

Well...
The hard reset has done nothing for me. I can't believe that the 8525 is so touchy that without even a fall the vibrate thing won't work now.
That is poor manufacturing. This is my second 8525, the first one had screen issues. Very disappointing, almost makes me want to look at treo's.

ironbear said:
Well...
The hard reset has done nothing for me. I can't believe that the 8525 is so touchy that without even a fall the vibrate thing won't work now.
That is poor manufacturing. This is my second 8525, the first one had screen issues. Very disappointing, almost makes me want to look at treo's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's certainly looking more like the contacts. Not a difficult fix if your doing it yourself. Still, a hassle all the same
Mike

I recall seeing a very good picture of the contacts and the back of the phone taken apart. My search has come up without me finding those pictures again. Has anyone seen the pictures I am referring to?

ironbear said:
I recall seeing a very good picture of the contacts and the back of the phone taken apart. My search has come up without me finding those pictures again. Has anyone seen the pictures I am referring to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Here you go. Remove the 4 screws including one under Void (warranty) sticker and open back, bottom end first. Gently prise open. Top end may need a bit of wiggling about to come free.. That's more or less it - bend out contacts a bit. Remember to line up toggle arm on camera with macro switch on rear cover when replacing back. Test camera macro switch is moving lens in and out before replacing screws. It'll be a right pain if you put it all back just to find you have to redo it all cos camera switch is misaligned!
Mike

Thanks Mike!
You are a great resource here at XDA.

My 8525 stopped vibrating when I received a txt message. Since other things were getting screwy, I went ahead and did a hard reset. Fixed.

jbartlett777 said:
My 8525 stopped vibrating when I received a txt message. Since other things were getting screwy, I went ahead and did a hard reset. Fixed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good news it's fixed. Always sensible to try the software solutions before assuming a hardware issue.
Mike

Same problem on my trinity. When i tap it it works once or twice.. I guess I must look for those springs. Is there any photo of the insides of the trinity so that I don't screw things up?

No sound in my Hermes after flashing PDAVIET ROM
I know this sounds like a software issue but I have flashed and reflashed several times but to no avail.
I have a Hermes 300 with HardSPL. I flashed the latest PDAVIET ROM after which my sound stopped working. I also flashed Radio 1.56.70.11 (upgraded from 1.51) and installed Throttle Launcher and TouchFlo at the same time so I am not sure which of them may have caused this. I read somewhere that radio could be the cause so i downgraded to 1.47.30.10 but no luck. I flashed PDACorner ver 16, then ver 15, and finaly the original Dopod ROM (838Pro_HK_ENG_WM6_Upgrade_20070712). The funny thing is, after flashing the Dopod ROM, now my vibration doesnt work! Even after I flashed PDACorner ver 15 back, both sound and vibration dont work still.
I installed Schaps Avanced Config tool to check settings but it wont run - errors out "it is not signed with a trustedcertificate or one of its componenets cannot be found.."
Does anyone have any clue about this problem? This is beginning to worry me as i am not sure whether it is a hardware or software issue. BTW, sound from earphones work.

Funny thing.. after I flashed the PDAVIET ROM the vibration is back again. No sound however. Do you still think its a hardware problem? i will have to go get a torque screwdriver to open it up ...
Yeah it took a mild knock a couple of days back but im not sure if that what caused it

jayp99 said:
Funny thing.. after I flashed the PDAVIET ROM the vibration is back again. No sound however. Do you still think its a hardware problem? i will have to go get a torque screwdriver to open it up ...
Yeah it took a mild knock a couple of days back but im not sure if that what caused it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it's not an uncommon thing for that connector to work loose. Oh and the vibrate contacts can come and go as well. So if it suddenly stops vibrating again you could be pretty sure it's the contacts.
Torx 6 screwdriver and preferably a plastic case opening tool Though any flat plastic tool would do even a plastic knife - metal damages the casing.
I am assuming you have no warranty as opening will obviously void it.
Mike

its out of warranty so no worries there. Havent opened it up yet due to lack of the torx screwdriver
It now hangs on the bootscreen ....

Hi Mike, it looks like something else may have come loose. Reflashing works for a while, then the whole thing resets by itself (randomly) and hangs at the bootscreen. What else should I check when I open it up? Thanks for all your help.

jayp99 said:
Hi Mike, it looks like something else may have come loose. Reflashing works for a while, then the whole thing resets by itself (randomly) and hangs at the bootscreen. What else should I check when I open it up? Thanks for all your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it could be the main internal connector one board to the other. However, I'm more inclined to think the random closing is the old battery connectors not making a good contact with the battery. In the best cases all you need is a slip of card between the casing and the battery on the opposite side to the connector. In other words to push the battery a little more firmly against the connector block - hope that's clear.
In worse cases the battery connector block with the row of gold contacts has actually come free or partially free from the board - may be re-solderable.
With a slip of card in place do repeated soft resets until it re-boots fully.
Good luck
Mike

hey mike, where does the stylus rubber go in the hermes? do you have a pic or something? thanks for your help. cheers.

finally, sound working...connector was loose just as you had predicted. vibration also fine. also managed to fix that pesky rubber under the metal plate
Only the keyboard seems a little stiff when I slide it...
Thanks a bunch for your help. Those guides you have are real handy.

jayp99 said:
finally, sound working...connector was loose just as you had predicted. vibration also fine. also managed to fix that pesky rubber under the metal plate
Only the keyboard seems a little stiff when I slide it...
Thanks a bunch for your help. Those guides you have are real handy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well forgot to check in here to see how it was going! Pleased it worked out.
Just for the information of others here are some pics to help with the loose stylus caused by the rubber block coming loose:
Back casing removed, stylus in place
Stylus removed. Note the white clip that holds the end of the stylus.
NOTE: This picture also shows the vibrate motor on the back casing. (Bottom right with the two gold contacts). To improve the contact between vibrate motor and m/board, simply bend those springy contacts out a little.

The block is important because although the white clip helps retain the stylus it will remain loose and wobbly without the rubber/plastic block in place. When re-sticking the block use some superglue but be careful NOT to get glue on the face of the block that is not be stuck to the metal. If you do it will have a smooth surface and will not friction grip the stylus as it is meant to. Also do not assume that the previous sticky layer on the block will be enough to re-stick the block! It won't and it will come off again when you slide the stylus in and out.
Mike

Cause & Possible Fixes for Whitescreen + D-Pad failures (a new thing to try)

First, it'd like to thank
MikeChannon
for pointing out something important that narrowed down my testing.
Now, onto the problem Symptoms :
- D-Pad, IE and Email buttons cease to work
- Screen fades to white or comes back from standby as white
- Display is slight disaligned to the side, 1mm of left appears on right side.
- Randomness in all above symptoms.
Cause : It is the D-Pad connector.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Yes, the D-Pad connection DOES cause the whitescreen. It's odd and illogical, but this is the conclusion I have reached.
ALL the previous guides, such as sliding plastic between the screen and casing, were randomly moving things inside.
By CHANCE ONLY it'd affect the D-Pad connector positively. That is why such solutions only worked for a few people temporarely.
SOLUTION :
You will need to try variants of the following things :
- Tightness of the screws over the connector
- Disconnecting the plug and reconnecting it very carefully
- Pressure over the bibbon between the D-Pad connector and the screen.
- Pressure over the D-Pad connector itself
- Tightness of the screws over the D-Pad PCD
- Tightness of the screws closing the plastic casing of this part of the phone
To stress-test the variants, I ran a D-Pad intensive game (Skyforce) for 30 minutes or until the symptoms came back.
I've played around with all those, giving mixed results, but definitively making a difference.
My final and best result was by putting a thin foam piece over the blue parts in the picture below. (Ignore the red circles, original picture is taken from a website)
The foam I used was the typical foam sheets you find in packaging for fragile electronics such as motherboards, hard drives, graphic cards etc. It has to be super thing in other to close the casing without buldges.
There isn't a specific thing you can do that will make your D-Pad be reliable and the whitescreen to go away. You'll have to do several tests, so I recommend you keep your phone disassembled while testing. The connector is VERY VERY SENSITIVE. That is why I cannot be any more precise in how to fix this. However, you NOW KNOW what causes the screen to freak out and buttons to stop working.
What I did for testing :
I have tested my phone while it was completely disassembled. Meaning I had the back of the monitor open, as seen in the picture above.
That way, I could fiddle around and instantly test the result.
I've fiddle with the cables, the screen pressure, everything. Nothing returned the screen from being white or becoming white.
Putting pressure D-Pad connector's ribbon or actual pin caused the screen to either turn on white, or fade to white. (Results often noticed only after going in & out of standby)
It also caused my D-Pad buttons and the top 2 buttons (IE & Email) to either work or not work.

Oh and this is my testing setup. Elastic band to hold the battery in place, everything else opened. However, I had to place/remove the backcover of the screen part of the phone to test as it affects the pressure put on the connector.

wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.

mutantblack said:
wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well this fix is for those who got a big enough problem and can't return it under warranty.
Anyhow, taking apart the TyTN is quite simple, and the thing is sturdy.
Only and only the D-Pad connector is tricky. The big ribbon connecting the two halfs of the phone is quite solid and never caused problems.

guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!

So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.

jwagman1 said:
guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike

Vasichko said:
So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems to me there may be a bit of trial and error regarding the fix. The service manual points out that the d-pad connector must be precisely inserted and absolutely level. So both under-tightening the screws or over-tightening could distort the connection. If you have it apart, take out and reconnect the push in connector several times This helps to ensure there is no oxidisation on the contacts.
(PS. this is not my fix so I cannot testify that it will work for you, though I believe it is on the right track, at least for some cases of this problem)
Mike

It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks

mikechannon said:
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANK YOU!! amazon.com overnight!!! woooo

I tried this diy.
I didnt have a small enough phillips to remove the screws from the connector on the D-Pad.
Know where I can get one?
So I took all the connections, put some automotive electronic connection cleaner on a q-tip and cleaned all of the other ones.
I used some automotive light double sided adhesive that you can get at Auto Zone instead of form. I only used 1 side of the adhesive and didnt peal the other side off, if it doesnt work, its easily removeable, just wanted to make sure it stays in place when I re-assemble the phone.
I also added some in a place you didnt which I show in yellow on your photo.
So far so good after 5 minutes.

Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.

marciton said:
It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dismantling guides and the service manual:
www.mikechannon.net
Mike

Hermes / TyTn / 8525 White Screen
Hey guy,
Nice write-up.
Good that someone has taken the time to experiment with different procedures.
I gave up on mine, after taking it apart time and time again.
-Reseating the cables and completely disassembling the unit was a tempereary fix, so I sold it on eBay for a parts / repair.
I just purchased another on eBay.
This time, instead of getting worked up about the white screen of death, I had purchased a warranty from www.squaretrade.com.
I am not an AT&T customer, so I unlocked the phone.
Neither AT&T or HTC can help when you dont have their service , or it's a branded phone.
Keep up the good work.

So far since my post before lunch today. No problems at all.
It used to white out when taking a picture with the camera, randomly when sliding out the keyboard, randomly when using the D-Pad.
No problems at all today after doing this fix posted here and adding the extra pad that I did.

im gonna have to try this when i get my new housing....anyone know where i can get a front camera?

Just giving another update. So far so good, no problems at all.
DPad no longer has the issue of not working here and there.
White screen issues appear to be gone.
Hopefully for good.
I will still post updates so you all can know the status.
Thx again for the right up. I will post some pics of the type of tape I used as well.

I have the rest of december left on my warranty. Do you guys think PPCtechs will know how to fix this? i don't want to send it to them and have it sent back with the same probs (like they did last time i sent it in to get my scroll wheel and camera lense repaired).

Miguel- said:
Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes indeed, re-aligning and reconnecting the connector works for many but will not work for all. There are, as you say instances where it is a chip connection that's at fault. There is little if anything you can do with that problem other than board replacement unless you have the correct tools - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1724236&postcount=66
Mike

It looks to be a design flaw. I dropped my maybe 3ft on the carpet yesterday and got the white screen issue. I took apart and looked at the connector in question. Even with it screwed in you can unplug it half way. So I added some more padding.
I think part of the problem is that coming from the back of the LCD to the DPad board or whatever you call it, the angle of the ribbon cable declines.

Something's not right with my camera...

Hey everyone,
Something's not right with my camera(rear). At first, it works. Then, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. Eventually, it deteriorated to working occasionally and now, extremely rarely. Lol. When i turn my camera on, all I see is a screen full of broken green lines. My phone is only 9 months old. Is this a sign of hardware failure? Here's how my camera looks like now.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Thanks

Hehe, looks like mines sometime 2 or 3 time in 1 year, and allways when the phone is low battery , but later back to work.
bye (sorry for my poor english )

It's because the push on camera connector is loose:
Pop off the back casing, unscrew the jog wheel board and remove camera and then re-seat it's connector. Reassemble (remember to line up the camera macro lever with back case - and all will be well. Warranty Voiding of course.
Mike

If its still under warranty, then take it in for warranty fix. You may have to change you os and downgrade your spl back to how it was shipped though or they may charge for repairs...
Cheers...

yea i thought so too. initially i thought the camera connector was loose cause sometimes it works, sometimes not. i went to a local service centre (non-authorized) and they told me the lens is broken. i didnt agree, but they were supposed to be the pros..
anyway, thanks mod for the detailed pictures. warranty is already void.
but, i'm rather skeptical about removing the thing by myself. is it dangerous? will anything go wrong? lol sorry about my paranoia.

abubakar said:
yea i thought so too. initially i thought the camera connector was loose cause sometimes it works, sometimes not. i went to a local service centre (non-authorized) and they told me the lens is broken. i didnt agree, but they were supposed to be the pros..
anyway, thanks mod for the detailed pictures. warranty is already void.
but, i'm rather skeptical about removing the thing by myself. is it dangerous? will anything go wrong? lol sorry about my paranoia.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, more fiddly than difficult. 4 screws (torx No 6 screwdriver). Then use a plastic case opening tool or a plastic knife to release the casing (bottom end first) Work your way round till you've removed tha back. Then remove the screw holding the jog wheel. It then slides up and off. Now use the plastic tool to lift the camera connector. I would pu**** in again and off again a few times before finally inserting it. This helps clean off any oxidisation from the contacts. Reassemble and don't for get to line up the little lever on the camera with the switch on the back casing. Test that macro switch before finally putting the four screws back in again.
This is not a major dismantling and you do not need to remove the main circuit boards or interfere with any of the main connectors.
Mike

mikechannon said:
Well, more fiddly than difficult. 4 screws (torx No 6 screwdriver). Then use a plastic case opening tool or a plastic knife to release the casing (bottom end first) Work your way round till you've removed tha back. Then remove the screw holding the jog wheel. It then slides up and off. Now use the plastic tool to lift the camera connector. I would pu**** in again and off again a few times before finally inserting it. This helps clean off any oxidisation from the contacts. Reassemble and don't for get to line up the little lever on the camera with the switch on the back casing. Test that macro switch before finally putting the four screws back in again.
This is not a major dismantling and you do not need to remove the main circuit boards or interfere with any of the main connectors.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there mike,
thanks alot for your time and effort in guiding me to this. I followed your instructions step by step, but still, the camera isnt working. I guess the camera must be broken then. Lol.

abubakar said:
Hey there mike,
thanks alot for your time and effort in guiding me to this. I followed your instructions step by step, but still, the camera isnt working. I guess the camera must be broken then. Lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it's relatively rare for them to be broken as opposed to just loose BUT there will be the odd one that is actually broken. Sadly, if you have checked everything softwarewise and the connector then it looks as if you need a new camera.
Perhaps you can ask around here for anyone selling off parts. What part of the pwrld are you in?
Mike

hi mike,
apparently, after replying to this thread, i made a soft reset and the camera worked. it worked for some time, maybe a couple of hours until i decided to make a soft reset again. Then, it didnt work anymore. So what does this tell me? Most probably it is loose? I was thinking of sticking layers of double-sided tapes on top of the connector so when i put the back case back on, it will push the double-sided tapes that will in turn push the connector to stay put on its place. Do you think this is viable?
Yeah i have thought of asking around here for people whose workplace doesnt allow them to use a camera or people with bricked devices to sell me their camera, if mine is really broken.
Thanks for your help Mike. Hope to hear from you soon

abubakar said:
hi mike,
apparently, after replying to this thread, i made a soft reset and the camera worked. it worked for some time, maybe a couple of hours until i decided to make a soft reset again. Then, it didnt work anymore. So what does this tell me? Most probably it is loose? I was thinking of sticking layers of double-sided tapes on top of the connector so when i put the back case back on, it will push the double-sided tapes that will in turn push the connector to stay put on its place. Do you think this is viable?
Yeah i have thought of asking around here for people whose workplace doesnt allow them to use a camera or people with bricked devices to sell me their camera, if mine is really broken.
Thanks for your help Mike. Hope to hear from you soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well the mystery deepens. Did you take the connection out and in a few times?
I am a little concerned though that a soft reset alters the state of the camera. That suggests a software issue, although it does not rule out a poor connection.
I can't remember if you did a hard reset?
Mike

mikechannon said:
Well the mystery deepens. Did you take the connection out and in a few times?
I am a little concerned though that a soft reset alters the state of the camera. That suggests a software issue, although it does not rule out a poor connection.
I can't remember if you did a hard reset?
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I figured out that the connector must be loose. Another attempt on fixing the camera came with a similar result. Works at first, then not anymore. I then thought maybe there is a tiny gap between the connector and the jog wheel circuit board that allowed the connector to come loose.
So, I made a little modification by layering the connector with thin pieces of tapes until it fills up the small gap. Now it is "forced" to stay in place.
Another thing, after the mod, my phone failed to vibrate so I searched the forum and found one of your replies to a similar problem. Followed your instructions (again) and now everything works like a charm. I love my hermes. lol
Thanks again Mike, for everything.

btw mike, just out of curiosity, how can I improve the pic quality of my Hermes' camera? I've read about a hardware mod which removes the transparent front plastic cover. How about softwares? Although I highly doubt so, but is it possible to fix better cameras from other HTC phones to a Hermes?

Well! hopefully your fix is a permanent one
Regarding camera software - there are some that say the cool camera software by ateksoft (not free) is easier to use and takes better pictures.
Personally I find Hermes pics ok in good light and not worth taking in poor light. The flash is wortless for taking pics at night (unless you're taking a Macro pic. How often do you take Macro pics at night!!??)
http://www.topshareware.com/ATEKsoft-CoolCamera-download-43332.htm
or
http://www.ateksoft.com/
a couple of relevant threads:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=359025
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=412291
Mike

mikechannon said:
Well! hopefully your fix is a permanent one
Regarding camera software - there are some that say the cool camera software by ateksoft (not free) is easier to use and takes better pictures.
Personally I find Hermes pics ok in good light and not worth taking in poor light. The flash is wortless for taking pics at night (unless you're taking a Macro pic. How often do you take Macro pics at night!!??)
http://www.topshareware.com/ATEKsoft-CoolCamera-download-43332.htm
or
http://www.ateksoft.com/
a couple of relevant threads:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=359025
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=412291
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah hope it's a permanent one. Thanks for sharing. I'll check them out now

abubakar said:
Yeah hope it's a permanent one. Thanks for sharing. I'll check them out now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CoolCamera is the way to go.
Not that the actual quality is so much better, but the CoolCamera software seems much more stable. Far fewer pictures are blurry as it seems to snap them faster, in my experience.

arrgh deng..
mike. the camera do work now. but some problems occurred while i was playing with it. while i was moving about and turning around, some green vertical stripes started appearing and disappearing, more extreme when im pointing my camera towards a scene with high glaring. then, i did a little experiment. i covered my camera lens with a piece of leather. Then, no matter how i move or turn the camera around, the green lines did not appear. I'm guessing that this has something to do with the amount of light captured by the camera lens, which led me to think that my camera lens may actually be broken.
what do you think mike?

abubakar said:
arrgh deng..
mike. the camera do work now. but some problems occurred while i was playing with it. while i was moving about and turning around, some green vertical stripes started appearing and disappearing, more extreme when im pointing my camera towards a scene with high glaring. then, i did a little experiment. i covered my camera lens with a piece of leather. Then, no matter how i move or turn the camera around, the green lines did not appear. I'm guessing that this has something to do with the amount of light captured by the camera lens, which led me to think that my camera lens may actually be broken.
what do you think mike?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possible I suppose though I'm a little doubtful due to the random nature of the problem. I recall you had it looked at at a repair shop and they said the lens was broken - maybe they are correct. Just seems odd that after firming up the connector it seems to have improved. (even if it's not 100%) It may be that the connector itself is fine but possible one of the connector wires is cracked - just a thought.
Mike

GPS Antenna Hardware Hack only 2 seconds to fix GPS status ;)

This thread is only interesting for technical gifted people, because you can brick your device !!!
I would like to share a GPS Antenna Hardware Hack i found here "http://www.androidpit.de/de/android/forum/thread/435065/HTC-Desire-HD-Hast-du-GPS-Probleme-mit-deinem-DHD"into the internet some time ago.
I tryed allot of fixing apps and software modifications but nothing works realy good for daily work with gps so i started to soldering a cable (0,8mm) to the GPS Antenna contacts (have a look to the picture)
after the assembly and a new start I had after 10sec sat-fix from 5-6 satellites in the room!!!
Outside I have sat-fix within 2 sec
Here some steps how to do, but be carefull you will lose the warranty of your device
1. open the device like in the youtube video described (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qm_z65LA8k)
2. solder a cable to the antenna contacts like the picture shows
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
3. assembly the device ... reboot and have fun
Big THX goes to pooganes for sharing his idea on Andropit
ROM: CoreDroid DHD V8.2 RC8
Phone: HTC Desire HD
Android Version: Android 2.3.4
Build No: 1.45.401.2
Sense Version: 3.0
Kernel: 2.6.35.14 - Lord Clockan V4 CFS (with Killersloth UV Scripts)
Radio: 12.62.60.27U_26.13.04.19_M

So phones don't really have an antenna?
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium

ceyo14 said:
So phones don't really have an antenna?
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
of cause it had a antenna, but the oryginal antenna doesnt works realy good
i had no gps fix without my cable here and after soldering the cable i had a satfix within 2 seconds outside

Great mod!
Yep, GPS is probably the biggest problem in the DHD.
In my case, I usually get fast fixes in GPS Status, but then CoPilot or Sygic take forever to pick up the signal
The solution seems to leave GPS Status opened in the background and then opening the gps program.
Other times, rarely though, not even GPS Status can get sat fixes.
I'll be trying other radio versions. But it's annoying stuff.
Sadly, I'm not very good with soldering.

joooe said:
Great mod!
Yep, GPS is probably the biggest problem in the DHD.
In my case, I usually get fast fixes in GPS Status, but then CoPilot or Sygic take forever to pick up the signal
The solution seems to leave GPS Status opened in the background and then opening the gps program.
Other times, rarely though, not even GPS Status can get sat fixes.
I'll be trying other radio versions. But it's annoying stuff.
Sadly, I'm not very good with soldering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
with my hardwarehack u can delete faster fix and every other gps fix apps, i tested something around 10 fix aps and mods but nothing works realy good for me.
after soldering the cable to the device it works like my garmin gps system
and hey u dont need to be a soldering good, have a look to the contacts and think about it

If I could find a way of isolating only the pins while soldering, that would protect the motherboard from any mistake I make. Like a piece of aluminum foil with two little holes in it or something.
Hmmmm... Might try that.
Thanks!
By the way, what kind of cable did you use? Anything special?

joooe said:
If I could find a way of isolating only the pins while soldering, that would protect the motherboard from any mistake I make. Like a piece of aluminum foil with two little holes in it or something.
Hmmmm... Might try that.
Thanks!
By the way, what kind of cable did you use? Anything special?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nothing special , i used 0,8mm copper cable that i had from an old headset

Hi, I had the idea of this set several months ago. It works fine but the signal quality is not as good as an original antenna that works well.
After 2 months of use, I bought a new GPS antenna DHD and I withdrew my cord.
The signal with the original HTC antenna is better (available on Ebay).
My Fr Tutorial (april 2011)

thats a nice mod, but really dangerous for non technichal used people.
but really interessting!!

Ok, tried this yesterday.
No soldering though, as I was scared to ruin the phone.
Grabbed a 3 cm cable from a 12v car leds and just hooked them up to the 2 pins, just twisting a little so they don't come off.
At first the results where not much different. Opened it again, rewired them and voilá.
It's like magic. Just got close to my window and bang!, less then 5 seconds.
I even wiped the phone and installed the rom again and still works!
By the way, I looked at the contacts of the cover itself and tried to rub a little bit with a screwdriver to remove possible rust. Bad news.
Most certainly, the gps problem lies with these contacts. They are too thin!
When I tried to rub a little, I started to see the plastic underneath!!!
So, maybe, the little dark dots we see in them are just the plastic showing up due to use. That's why gps doesn't work as it should.

joooe said:
Ok, tried this yesterday.
No soldering though, as I was scared to ruin the phone.
Grabbed a 3 cm cable from a 12v car leds and just hooked them up to the 2 pins, just twisting a little so they don't come off.
At first the results where not much different. Opened it again, rewired them and voilá.
It's like magic. Just got close to my window and bang!, less then 5 seconds.
I even wiped the phone and installed the rom again and still works!
By the way, I looked at the contacts of the cover itself and tried to rub a little bit with a screwdriver to remove possible rust. Bad news.
Most certainly, the gps problem lies with these contacts. They are too thin!
When I tried to rub a little, I started to see the plastic underneath!!!
So, maybe, the little dark dots we see in them are just the plastic showing up due to use. That's why gps doesn't work as it should.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The GPS chip will store satellite location data (in itself) even through a ROM wipe, afaik. So once you get a fix once, it will usually be much faster to lock thereafter (for a day or two, in the same location). You can use GPS Status to wipe the GPS chip's data to get a true cold fixes for testing.

I don't remember if I wiped the gps data with Gps Status.
Going to try it now.
---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:38 PM ----------
Reseted the A-GPS data, didn't even dowloaded an updated one (my monthly data plan is over for this month) and I can confirm that the lock showed up in less than 10 secs, both in GPS Status and CoPilot.
I'm indoors, on the second floor, with big windows. Phone was left against the window glass.
Brilliant stuff.

joooe said:
I don't remember if I wiped the gps data with Gps Status.
Going to try it now.
---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:38 PM ----------
Reseted the A-GPS data, didn't even dowloaded an updated one (my monthly data plan is over for this month) and I can confirm that the lock showed up in less than 10 secs, both in GPS Status and CoPilot.
I'm indoors, on the second floor, with big windows. Phone was left against the window glass.
Brilliant stuff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Congratulation

Damn, your too late
Took my phone apart a few weeks ago to pimp it
But don't want to take that thing of again because it's a pain in the ass.

Overloaded said:
Damn, your too late
Took my phone apart a few weeks ago to pimp it
But don't want to take that thing of again because it's a pain in the ass.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really. Use a small customized tool, slightly bent at the tip and insert it carefully through the battery compartment, aiming at the cover. Just a little effort will do. The cover will pop up sligthly, just enough for you to put your nail in it.

Wonder how easy it would be to get 2 of the small ipex connectors and make a small cable yourself?
would be a lot safer then soldering it...

Firstly this "hack" takes longer than 2 seconds...
Secondly a large majority of GPS reception issues in DHD are related to bad contact between phone and antenna.
So check this connection before voiding your warrenty.
otherwise thanks for the info.

so i tried this, and i had to solder the contacts on the antena to have contact with wire and little doohickey thing that pops out of the motherboard, it works better but its not that big of a difference sure i get 3 more satellite locks, unless you guys are using a patch, which i don't know about, plus sometimes it takes more than 10 second to find satellite, are you guys using a patch??

Big thanks. My GPS works again and faster than ever !

This is really handy as I have bent my contacts up so much now that they have snapped through weakness, which means I get NO signal at all. I was thinking about trying to replace them with small springs or something a bit clever like that, but this idea is even better!
Thanks for the idea

[FIX] i9000 i9001 gps final fix

Before to procede, remember all electrial component can have fault so exist warranty. If you want, procede at your own risk loosing warranty
For this tutorial is raccomanded professional leadfree soldering iron
i solved my gps problem, it is hardware problem, so no settings, gpsaids and no other solution helped me.
Problem is caused by bad gnd conductivity between mainboard and antenna. It is conduced by:
1) CONDUCTIVE GUMMY (suggest me better name if you have ) This kind of rubber was used for old nokia 8210 for connect display to mainboard. It was the mayor fault for nokia 8210.
2) back cover gps antenna: When phone become hot, antenna go back and not good touch with motherboard. Then, when phone isn't hot, gps antenna remains with a kind of "hole"
First try software fix (it not helped me) then try my solution
Solution:
Attention: it will avoid warranty, do it at your own risk, i'm not responsable for any fault.
SOLUTION: ​
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
here is antenna contact not used for my european i9000
Please check by yourself if it touch with your variant antenna,
if it is not used, you can remove and solder where was rubber
Now gps signal is immediate for me
Best regards
Leeno

The first picture is before and the second afterwards?

i moved in this third post the other solution,
it is easyer then solution in first post but i not like it because is not clean
Attention: it will avoid warranty, do it at your own risk, i'm not responsable for any fault.
For solve it i just removed rubber and soldered antenna to gps gnd mainboard like the picture.
Attention: if you use unprotected wire like picture, make sure it touch only gnd, not other components or you can damage phone.
Gnd require hard conductivity so
DO NOT USE VERY THIN WIRE

Ping-Pong said:
you csn also use gps files extracted from nexuss gingerbread
i think those have not changed in GRK39F
but i will be checking that today
ics.samsung-updates.com/stockplusmod/GPS_GRK39C.zip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
software can't fix hardware issues,
your posted file will only update settings and north american server for gps
i fixed i9000 froyo with my fix

Looks interesting. Might give this a go thanks.
Sent from my Android shizzle!

Where do you find the "third antenna contact"? I guess there are three and I do not want to take the second ...

here is antenna contact not used for my european i9000
Please check by yourself if it touch with your variant antenna

I thought that the other connection was for GPS

What is the reason of this post? This fix is well known. A search might be helpful from time to time. The only useful info in this thread is the fact that you figured out that the other antenna is not used.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=878970
Besides yours there is also another post that does the same thing. Takes you to the first one http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1043034
So no need for another one.

Trak-X said:
What is the reason of this post? This fix is well known. A search might be helpful from time to time. The only useful info in this thread is the fact that you figured out that the other antenna is not used.
So no need for another one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, sorry, you're wrong.
THIS fix were not known at all! The thread you linked just refer to pull up the OTHER contact of the gps antenna, not the RUBBER ONE, which actually is the source of the problem.
So the next time please read carefully before suggesting someone a search.
This thread is VERY USEFUL! This man deserves all the praise and should be acknowledged of the REAL FINAL GPS FIX which turned my phone into what should have been since the first day!

I was skeptical to say the least.
but this time, I have to admit: this solution works INSANELY WELL.
I made my own modded version, though. I removed the third unused antenna contact, and placed it over the conductive rubbed. no soldering involved. pressure keeps the contact in position and enhances the connection between antenna and mobo, similar but more effective than the other older solutions.
btw, I also changed server from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net, just like in my old acer liquid which locks really instactly.
connecting now in seconds in my living room (!!!) with 7 to 9 satellites. awesome. never happened before.
you deserve a huge thanks.

I did it this morning. I removed the rubber and soldered a wire between the contacts. I never had such a signal on my i9000, the gps works perfectly.
Huge thanks from here too.

anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone

oracula whedka
wowww:good:

duffymm said:
anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pictures in first post are self explaining.
I did not bother soldering anything. Just removed the unused antenna with some tweezers and placed it on top of the existing conductive rubber (but reversed upside down, though, to keep it level), I used a tiny bit of duct tape to hold it in place and to be sure it does not touch any other contact on the mobo.
I cannot exclude to solder it or use some conductive glue in the future, anyway, it sounds safer.
I can confirm this is THE solution. I am really astonished.

duffymm said:
anyone can post a picture of the contacts to connect on european i9000 ?
any screenshot of gps test ?
thx a lot to everyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

I use tutorial from first page, remove useles antenna connector and ruber. Put connector on rubber place (after clean connect) and gently fix with hot glue. After assemble phone use gps test but speed is same slow like before first fix time 03:06. I check contacts and all god.
@lcampori where u change from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net ?
(sry for bad english)

trut said:
I use tutorial from first page, remove useles antenna connector and ruber. Put connector on rubber place (after clean connect) and gently fix with hot glue. After assemble phone use gps test but speed is same slow like before first fix time 03:06. I check contacts and all god.
@lcampori where u change from europe.ntp.org to xtra1.gpsonextra.net ?
(sry for bad english)[/QUOT
gps.conf in /system/etc, you need a rooted phone the mod this file.
default server in sgs1 is "north-america.pool.ntp.org" which supposedly is not correct for european users. following suggestion here at xda, I changed the line to "europe.pool.ntp.org" months ago, and now after givig a look to gps.conf in the acer liquid to "xtra1.gpsonextra.net" and live happily with that.
I do not think this is the point, anyway. My old acer liquid uses "xtra1.gpsonextra.net" and locks sats in the blink of an eye, ditto for my wife's htc desire which has "pool.ntp.org". Any software related mod could be just placebo.
as far as I know (google search..), hot glue is not conductive. if so, you are not fixing anything. but I might be wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I use hot glue just from side to fix connect in place and check with multimeter all good. In my gps.conf i change from "pool.ntp.org" to "europe.pool.ntp.org" voila first fix time 00:31 and also me not use any help like wifi or mobile data just clean gps. However this fix work...

Hmmm....
I will give it a try soon.
Thanks man!!!
Gesendet von meinem GT-I9000 mit Tapatalk 2