I've found the LED flash to be basically useless for taking pictures. Everytime I try to use it in a dark environment, the shutter speeds are too slow and the picture is both horribly overexposed and there is motion blur as well.
I understand there is no pre-flash firing to lock focus, but the camera should be smart enough to bump up shutter speed to actually take a usable picture in the dark with flash.
Does everyone's camera do this?
supdawg said:
I've found the LED flash to be basically useless for taking pictures. Everytime I try to use it in a dark environment, the shutter speeds are too slow and the picture is both horribly overexposed and there is motion blur as well.
I understand there is no pre-flash firing to lock focus, but the camera should be smart enough to bump up shutter speed to actually take a usable picture in the dark with flash.
Does everyone's camera do this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine takes awesome pictures, even in complete darkness.
supdawg said:
I've found the LED flash to be basically useless for taking pictures. Everytime I try to use it in a dark environment, the shutter speeds are too slow and the picture is both horribly overexposed and there is motion blur as well.
I understand there is no pre-flash firing to lock focus, but the camera should be smart enough to bump up shutter speed to actually take a usable picture in the dark with flash.
Does everyone's camera do this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Camera works great, it's no DSLR but it's just as good or better than any point and shoot i've ever owned. As far as the flash goes only time pictures are overexposed is when you are too close and try and use the flash. Cameras can't work miracles. If it's too dark for you to see your subject then it's too dark for the camera to see it as well and the pictures will look bad on any camera. As long as the lighting is reasonable the pictures come out great.
Jykinturah said:
Mine takes awesome pictures, even in complete darkness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
might be a problem with the OPs flash
supdawg said:
I understand there is no pre-flash
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you use a led widget, it will stay on before, during, and after the shot but it is not as bright as the camera flash brightness.
supdawg said:
I've found the LED flash to be basically useless for taking pictures. Everytime I try to use it in a dark environment, the shutter speeds are too slow and the picture is both horribly overexposed and there is motion blur as well.
I understand there is no pre-flash firing to lock focus, but the camera should be smart enough to bump up shutter speed to actually take a usable picture in the dark with flash.
Does everyone's camera do this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine seems to work ok it can actually take a decent picture in complete darkness
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Jykinturah said:
Mine takes awesome pictures, even in complete darkness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
michaelvibe said:
Mine seems to work ok it can actually take a decent picture in complete darkness
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what are your settings cause mine look crappy as well? met my favorite band and took pics and they all came out crappy.. luckly i had my canon camera as a backup but after one picture the bastard died.. if my phone was taking nice pics i could have had a collection of awesome memories
This is a typical picture taken with my camera in very low lighting with flash.
As you can see the picture is horribly overexposed. All I did was take the raw file an upload to imageshack with a slight crop.
Is this typical? Or do I have a defective camera? Camera takes good pictures in good light, but flash pictures are terrible.
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Link to full res photo
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6331/imag0052ou.jpg
Its a flashlight... Duh
supdawg said:
This is a typical picture taken with my camera in very low lighting with flash.
As you can see the picture is horribly overexposed. All I did was take the raw file an upload to imageshack with a slight crop.
Is this typical? Or do I have a defective camera? Camera takes good pictures in good light, but flash pictures are terrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lower the brightness when you take pictures that close with the flash. It will help a LOT.
midri said:
Lower the brightness when you take pictures that close with the flash. It will help a LOT.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip. I tried to recreate the picture at -2 & -3 exposures.
-2
-3
While lowering the exposure helps a bit, the pictures still look extremely soft to me (looks like the shutter speed was too low/motion blur).
I understand this phone won't produce DSLR quality pictures (I own a Canon 450D for that). However, I would like to get usable pictures with flash. To me, even at -3 exposure, these pictures are pretty bad.
Subject was about 4-5 feet away.
TIA
i think it's because the camera doesn't pre-light and focus before hitting the shutter, it just "focuses" in complete darkness then lights up the flash and takes the picture with an out of focus subject. Best way is to use a flashlight app to light it up, focus, then turn off the flashlight and take the pic
It's better than not having flash and not many companies are willing to go to the added expense (as well as sacrifice more space) of a xenon flash.
Just wanted to know if this was typical? Can someone post a pic of a person using flash in low light with flash?
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
I took some pictures at night during the Fourth of July and the daytime pictures came out much better than my 10.1MP point and shoot, the camera is also about 5X faster, so I didn't miss nearly as many shots as my GF using my P&S.
Night time pictures on both cameras were also mediocre. Like someone here already said, if you can't see the person very well in low light, then the camera won't either. As soon as the flash goes off it flushes the area with light. Honestly, I think you are expecting a little much from a cellphone camera. Compared to every other camera I have owned (not owned a DSLR) this camera trumps both phones and P&S cameras.
Good luck, but I think your comparing apples and oranges seeing as you own a DSLR. Most phones don't even have a flash.
Brutal-Force said:
I took some pictures at night during the Fourth of July and the daytime pictures came out much better than my 10.1MP point and shoot, the camera is also about 5X faster, so I didn't miss nearly as many shots as my GF using my P&S.
Night time pictures on both cameras were also mediocre. Like someone here already said, if you can't see the person very well in low light, then the camera won't either. As soon as the flash goes off it flushes the area with light. Honestly, I think you are expecting a little much from a cellphone camera. Compared to every other camera I have owned (not owned a DSLR) this camera trumps both phones and P&S cameras.
Good luck, but I think your comparing apples and oranges seeing as you own a DSLR. Most phones don't even have a flash.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a fair assessment. I just thought that this camera could do what every point and shoot camera I've owned for the past 10 years could do. Take a sharp picture in a dark environment using flash.
And I've owned a phone with a flash before (Touch Pro). I cannot remember if it exhibited the same behavior, though.
I just don't think it's too much to ask for a camera to expose properly and give sufficient shutter speed to take sharp pictures while using the flash. I love having the LED's for flashlight purposes, I simply question it's functionality/usability as a part of the camera.
I am not talking about physical limitations of the sensor. The sensor is capable of doing it, but it just needs to be improved software wise by HTC. I understand there will be noise and grain in this type of sensor. I just want sharp photos that don't have all of their highlights blown all to hell on 0 EV compensation.
The exposure compensation setting at -3 to take is a real PITA considering its just not FEV, so I imagine even daytime shots would come out underexposed if you forget to switch back.
I just hope HTC does something to improve this camera/video camera. It's too nice of hardware for it to under perform the way it does.
Jykinturah said:
Mine takes awesome pictures, even in complete darkness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you post a picture of someone taken about 5 feet away using flash in a dark environment? If you dont feel comfortable doing that on the forum, you could PM me.
I could look at your picture to see if it has the same problems as mine does.
easy fix take it. back and a ip4 it has a "better camera".
my camera takes great pics in the dark
sent with my evo from a secret place
Sporkman said:
easy fix take it. back and a ip4 it has a "better camera".
my camera takes great pics in the dark
sent with my evo from a secret place
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Care to share any?
supdawg said:
Care to share any?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To answer your question, yes these are typical results for a photo taken in complete darkness. The Evo, while pretty good for a cell phone camera, is comparable in quality to a cheap P&S camera (to me it looks slightly better than my wife's old Canon A430, but noticeably worse than my Canon SX100). There's nothing wrong with your phone.
Related
I've got sgs around month ago and already tried many kernels and firmwares but neither of those deal with photo camera shots quality issues. Let me explain - I had Huawei u8220 before and the camera photo shots where nearly perfect, when I get to computer I will try to upload a couple of pictures to see. Now with this high end super phone I get photos of the same quality as my wife's simple nokia but 5mp instead... I wonder if this is hardware of software fault, and if it is software, maybe there is better app available for camera?
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
The SGS's camera is not the best in the world, but I've been able to make fairly good shots with it. But in the end; just with all phone cameras, it's a tiny sensor with lousy optics. Just use it for what it is for and only use it under the right circumstances (enough light, little movement) and you should be oke.
I don't understand alot of the negative opinons about the sgs camera, it seems perfect for a phone camera, better than all those htc ones and my old nokia n95 one by far, which is all I could really ask for.
don't know what you talking about really.
SGS has a great camera.
Compare the pictures taken by sgs on other websites with yours and see any diffference.
Check setting and camera lens.
done
[email protected] said:
don't know what you talking about really.
SGS has a great camera.
Compare the pictures taken by sgs on other websites with yours and see any diffference.
Check setting and camera lens.
done
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have compared pictures before I purchased sgs and I saw that they are way worth than those from huawei but I thought that is because of taking picture conditions, besides I liked to have this phone,i still do, but here are two shots one from huawei and one from sgs,i didn't pick the best, just random.
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Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
The photo compression on the SGS is bad. It would be great if somebody fixedthat and the crappy filters on the video.
if that sgs camera sample is actually indicative of all the pics you take then there is something seriously wrong with your camera, I've never taken a pic that bad. Maybe you're picture quality is on normal, not super fine and its on a low res?
go to camera then go to settings. try to change the resolution from 600x480(not exact) to 2500x1900(not exact) or something like that. I think its a bug cause when i put mine to 2000x1900 it magically changes back to 800x600. just check if you are really using the full 5m.
i also checked the one you uploaded and its just 600x480. may you are just using .3m
tterencesy said:
go to camera then go to settings. try to change the resolution from 600x480(not exact) to 2500x1900(not exact) or something like that. I think its a bug cause when i put mine to 2000x1900 it magically changes back to 800x600. just check if you are really using the full 5m.
i also checked the one you uploaded and its just 600x480. may you are just using .3m
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the resolution was 2048x1536 and quality superfine why the image got smaller on the post? I dont know, will try to to find shots in approximately same condition. The size of Huawei's 3mp photo is slightly bugger than the SGSs 5mp. By the way, Huawei's camera was set on NORMAL image quality here (fine one would add some strange artefacts so, I never used it)
Huawei u8220:
SGS i9000:
View attachment 445250
For me, the Camera on the Outside has a great Quality while the Front Facing camera Picture is useless because its blurry as hell. Like theres extreme Bloom is turned on.
I didnt find any options to change anything on the Frontcam.
Do you have the same prob?
brack11 said:
the resolution was 2048x1536 and quality superfine why the image got smaller on the post? I dont know, will try to to find shots in approximately same condition. The size of Huawei's 3mp photo is slightly bugger than the SGSs 5mp. By the way, Huawei's camera was set on NORMAL image quality here (fine one would add some strange artefacts so, I never used it)
Huawei u8220:
View attachment 445249
SGS i9000:
View attachment 445250
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So what are you complaining about. You do not use SGS best quality but use the best quality of the Huwaei. The SGS is still much better if you compare. Both cameras is set to 3mp still the SGS is both sharper (you used the same number of pixel and they should be equal), have correct color, better contrast etc than the Huawie and still it is only roughly the half potential of the SGS (5mp versus 3mp). Strange thread the title should be why does my Huawei take so crapy pictures.
I think the problem is that you seem to prefer saturated pictures, the only problem is that the SGS camera looks 'dull' in comparison? Go fiddle with the settings?
Also, do you still have your huawei? Why don't you take pictures of the same subject matter to compare, instead of taking entirely different types of photos?
milsjg said:
So what are you complaining about. You do not use SGS best quality but use the best quality of the Huwaei. The SGS is still much better if you compare. Both cameras is set to 3mp still the SGS is both sharper (you used the same number of pixel and they should be equal), have correct color, better contrast etc than the Huawie and still it is only roughly the half potential of the SGS (5mp versus 3mp). Strange thread the title should be why does my Huawei take so crapy pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both cameras on last uploaded photos are set to 3 mp, it's max for huawei, but the quality setting for huawei was set to normal and for sgs superfine
To me huawei pics look sharper and sgs ones are dull,
Yes I should experiment with settings of sgs camera and yes,i need to charge huawei and make a few pics of the same object, will be back with results tomorrow after charge.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
Ok I figured some options to make photos look better, and even better than huawei - settings-> adjust->+2 on contrast and sharpness and quality photos are there, however,i have to set this option ecru time I start camera, those are not saved for some reason, maybe there are some tricks on how to save options in camera?
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
i wish i still had the shots i took with my first SGS. they were great! I'd have used them to populate this site
http://litlclic.com
(ok, little plug there)
it's still in the works ...
the SGS is a great little camera/phone! as someone above mentioned, of course it isnt as good as a camera, but take it for what it is and you can get some great shots!
this guide will help too
http://litlclic.com/guides/take-better-pics
brack11 said:
Ok I figured some options to make photos look better, and even better than huawei - settings-> adjust->+2 on contrast and sharpness and quality photos are there, however,i have to set this option ecru time I start camera, those are not saved for some reason, maybe there are some tricks on how to save options in camera?
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know you can touch to zoom on specific ellements right?
Also, the different modes (click SCN) will make a big difference.
t1mman said:
You know you can touch to zoom on specific ellements right?
Also, the different modes (click SCN) will make a big difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Touching doesn't zoom, but adjusts the focus.
ssj4Gogeta1 said:
Touching doesn't zoom, but adjusts the focus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep, my bad!
I meant Touch to focus
I've found that using Vignette, the SGS camera takes better photos.
Always remember, it's not the camera that makes a photographer, especially if you've comparing smartphone cameras. If we were talking about various prime lenses and the like, then it's a lot more serious.
Also, factor in that almost all photos nowadays go through post-processing if you want it to look good. I personally feel that there is nothing wrong with that, if one is just to touch up the photo.
Hence my inclination towards programs like Vignette, which do a lot of the post-processing effects that I like, all within the camera. Excellent feature of Vignette is that it can save both original JPEG (which considerably looks better than the default camera), and the edited JPEG.
Here are some random photos taken using Vignette:
Vignette01
Vignette02
Vignette03
Vignette04
I am in no way affiliated with the makers of the program, nor am I being paid to this. These are all my side on things. I hope it was informative.
Im also using vignette and noticed that right before the photo is taken when the app is trying to focus theres a split second that you will see the images that are very very sharp and great quality, after the photo is snapped it looks dull.
Ok, I started this thread because there are a million question throughout this forum about the stock camera on the X10. Some people just don't understand why they can't get good pictures from a 8mp camera. Some people say, why does this stupid 8mp camera take pictures with the quality of a 5mp camera (that makes me laugh a bit) lol.
So, here's the deal, for as long as I have been a member here I don't remember seeing a thread on this to help people get better pictures. Just many threads with questions scattered throughout.
Lets get started:
As a photographer I do spend ALOT of time taking pictures whether Im at home, work, parties, etc etc. I also shoot weddings, I have done and still do family portaits, etc etc.
So, most of the time I have my DSLR..but sometimes I dont, sometimes I just have my point-and-shoot, sometimes I rely on my X10. And thats where the fun starts.
When I use my phone to take pictures, I want to make sure I use the best possible settings to get the best possible picture. That includes, white balance, metering, and the lovely EV+/-.
I have spent a HUGE HUGE amount of time comparing many many different camera apps against each other. Guess which one won in the very end??? STOCK CAMERA! by a long shot!
What makes the stock so good compared to others? probably a more accurate meter reading, better white balance control and of course the EV+/- control.
How do I use my X10 camera properly then?
1. One thing I found for SURE on the X10 camera is the focusing isn't good. Use infinity focus for any shot UNLESS it's a macro (which isn't truly a macro, because smartphones aren't capable of shooting actual macro)
2. Change your white balance! if your inside your house with normal lighting from lamps, ceiling fans, etc, use incandenscent white balance! if your outside on a bright sunny day..use day white balance, if your outside and it's cloudy, use cloudy white balance. If your unsure, just use auto,,,it holds up really well.
3. Use EV+/- balance! best feature of our stock camera, which no other camera app can offer. Here's how its works:
you will see a meter when use press the EV control on your camera screen. It goes from -2___0___+2. By default its set to 0. If your shooting outside on a bright day try lowering it to about -0.3 to -1. You will see a dramatic difference with your shot. Much more detail becomes available. If you taking a picture of your friend, family member, etc etc outside on a bright day you might notice sometimes they look dark on your screen...thats because all the light from the background (usually the sun) is tricking your lens into thinking it has a crazy amount of light and it will lower the shutter speed. To counteract that, you will need to raise your EV to the + side. What this essentially does is overexposes the background, but brightens your subject up close so they aren't dark. Inside under poor lighting people complain about the camera and how it sucks. Well, guess what, we cant control the shutter speed or aperture on our camera, so we have to use whats available...again EV.
Under poor lighting, lower your EV to no less then -0.7 (otherwise the image might be to dark) What you will notice by doing this is yes the picture is slightly darker, but it also help reduce background noise within your photo.
Play around with the EV and see the difference for yourself. But never raise it in the + side of things unless your subject it to dark compared to the background otherwise you will end up with an overexposed photo. Lowering it a bit helps in almost all situations for everyday shooters.
How do I setup the X10 camera:
Capturing Mode: Normal
Resolution: 8mp or 6mp (wide) depends on what I want (remember, MP DO NOT effect quality)
Scenes: Normal
Focus Mode: Infinity or macro for close up shots
Photo light: always off for me
self timer: always off
metering: depends. but for everyday shooting use average as this is also known as matrix and is the most accurate metering mode.
White Balance: I explained above how to use it and when
Image stabilizer: ALWAYS OFF!! The feature is bad on the X10. Its litterly destroys the image. It causes way to much smearing should I say.
The rest of the features don't matter.
I hope this helps alot of your get better images from your stock cam. Because in the end of it, it most certainly is a superior app than anything on the market. Of course I have 360 ultimate, and vignette on my phone. 360 is nice for taking pictures with instant effects, and works really well. Same with vignette. So those 2 apps are by no means junk....just in sheer quality, not comparible to stock. Try staying away from automatic settings most of the time.
How to make your photo unique and very nice?
Use the rule of thirds. If you guys like this enough, I will continue to help you all with achieving much prettier pictures.
If you guys like this, I will take the time to do photos and show the differences when using EV and other features on the stock camera.
I would like this to become a sticky so people visiting these forums can see it at the top of the list and hopefully helps them before having to post more questions.
Any questions about this, feel free to ask.
Please don't troll this thread, I have dedicated myself to photography as a passion and take things very seriously. Of course you can disagree with me on this thread, but do it in a nice manner.
Thank you this is what I have always wanted to know how to make it better with the stock Camera
Your guide helps me a lot I cant wait to try it by myself after my phone is done charging
It would also be nice if you dont mind showing us some of your picture taken from X10 ( And Yes It will be appreciated if you could do the comparison )
nice tips... how about a write up on how to compose a picture =)
Montague said:
Thank you this is what I have always wanted to know how to make it better with the stock Camera
Your guide helps me a lot I cant wait to try it by myself after my phone is done charging
It would also be nice if you dont mind showing us some of your picture taken from X10 ( And Yes It will be appreciated if you could do the comparison )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will put together pictures for this thread showing the differences in features. But alot of my x10 pictures are of family which i wont post. So gimme a little time to take random shots.
Sent from my X10i using XDA App
beanoguy said:
nice tips... how about a write up on how to compose a picture =)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If people like this thread enough, i will absolutely take it further. I will give the tips and tricks i use when shooting weddings, family portraits, etc.
Composition comes with practice. Knowing how to frame your shot is a big deal in photography.
Sent from my X10i using XDA App
The stock camera in 2.1 was the best, but now I am noticing a severe deterioration in quality after upgrading to GB. Night photos are completely unusable after upgrading to GB - there is severe noise reduction applied as default and the pictures look like some artist's water-colored images. I wish i could revert to the 2.1 firmware
Will post a comparison soon...
EDIT: Image Stabilization is set to OFF and I am using normal mode (no scenes).
bbsrailfan said:
The stock camera in 2.1 was the best, but now I am noticing a severe deterioration in quality after upgrading to GB. Night photos are completely unusable after upgrading to GB - there is severe noise reduction applied as default and the pictures look like some artist's water-colored images. I wish i could revert to the 2.1 firmware
Will post a comparison soon...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simce i just flashed 2.3.3 i havent really had a chance to check the camera much. But i will soon.
Sent from my X10i using XDA App
Please continue sir, this can't be more helpful Thank you very much!
Oh man what took you so long to write this?
by the way weren't you the one who once said miui camera takes better pictures than stock?
Hei, you're good at making photos, so i suppose you're also good with photoshop and stuff.
Because there is a slight chance that there are some ..... how should we call them.... people who don't understand something when they don't see it with their own eyes.... why don't you make a picture of camera app and insert numbers to describe each feature and which is where.
Here is a Screenshot
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
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"lightbox_share": "Share",
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"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
(sorry for this pixel thing on the right side, but just cant get rid of it, liveview of camera refreshes to fast for screenshot ^^ )
riginal said:
Oh man what took you so long to write this?
by the way weren't you the one who once said miui camera takes better pictures than stock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also thought Vignette did to. Once I learned infinity focus was better than single auto, and discovered EV on stock cam...it was all over lol
Haldi4803 said:
Hei, you're good at making photos, so i suppose you're also good with photoshop and stuff.
Because there is a slight chance that there are some ..... how should we call them.... people who don't understand something when they don't see it with their own eyes.... why don't you make a picture of camera app and insert numbers to describe each feature and which is where.
Here is a Screenshot
(sorry for this pixel thing on the right side, but just cant get rid of it, liveview of camera refreshes to fast for screenshot ^^ )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Up in my first post I wrote how I setup my stock cam.
there all in order according to your camera app starting from the top to the bottom, then in the additional settings.
If you use a different camera app, and wanna know what button is doing, just ask
Oh! ps. I noticed your set on infinity focus in that screenshot,,,which wouldn't work out so well being so close. you would want macro. Which is the very top box on your camera screen
Very deatil, I must say.
I am going to try using the EV adj to take better photos.
If you gave time,could you write another thread to teach us how to take good photo under poor light/at night(Well,I knowthe light sensor is just x.x)
cheers,
L
Sent fRom mY FreeXperia X10 uSIng xda Premium App
m8 the shire quality of the images is much much much time better with vignette than the stock camera app mainly coz the stock camera app compresses the pictures a lot more and the quality is a lot worst than those taken with vignette for instance i took the same picture with the stock app and vignette and the truth is ht picture with the stock camera is 2.8mb a lot worse and the one with vignette is 5.6mb ... sooo .. dunno what u compared but m8 from my experience your not right for shire quality of the images, about the options of the app i agree with u but not for the quality taken with the stock app its poor .For instance i was on the same options that u mentioned and me and my gf who has 6700 nokia compared pictures and i was astonished how bad is the quality untill i found vignette - the best app for taking quality images for me
bbsrailfan said:
The stock camera in 2.1 was the best, but now I am noticing a severe deterioration in quality after upgrading to GB. Night photos are completely unusable after upgrading to GB - there is severe noise reduction applied as default and the pictures look like some artist's water-colored images. I wish i could revert to the 2.1 firmware
Will post a comparison soon...
EDIT: Image Stabilization is set to OFF and I am using normal mode (no scenes).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
while taking pics in night try night landscape! if it's outdoor!
suggested by mode from esato!
you can check few pics in here
laill said:
Very deatil, I must say.
I am going to try using the EV adj to take better photos.
If you gave time,could you write another thread to teach us how to take good photo under poor light/at night(Well,I knowthe light sensor is just x.x)
cheers,
L
Sent fRom mY FreeXperia X10 uSIng xda Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nightime photography is my favorite. However on this phone without manual controls of aperture, shutter speed and ISO...you can only do so much.
If you shooting handheld at night,, you better have a VERY steady hand. Otherwise mount your phone.
Leave the EV at 0 and adjust from there. White balance makes a massive difference at night...which most of the time (not always) will be incandenscent white balance.
Use infinity focus at night because the X10 just wont be able to focus properly anyways. Unless you have significant lighting. I still stick with infinity anyways lol.
Good thing about infinity focus, is you can hold the shutter button half way as if you were focusing and move around with it held half way til your ready to snap your shot then just press the shutter the rest of the way.
But yeah, the sensor is only so good on this phone.
Mr Patchy Patch said:
I also thought Vignette did to. Once I learned infinity focus was better than single auto, and discovered EV on stock cam...it was all over lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I thought about Vignette too & frankly I love that app & its effects hehe.
But I'll try playing with these settings in stock cam & see what'll happen.
laill said:
Very deatil, I must say.
I am going to try using the EV adj to take better photos.
If you gave time,could you write another thread to teach us how to take good photo under poor light/at night(Well,I knowthe light sensor is just x.x)
cheers,
L
Sent fRom mY FreeXperia X10 uSIng xda Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Honestly tho, taking phone cameras out of the picture, it's difficult to take nice pictures in low light conditions, even with a DSLR.
Essentially, there are several factors that enable you to take good low light photos, such as longer exposure times (allowing more light to hit the sensor) the use of tripods (a very steady hand) and/or a flash for a light source.
Even your breathing will give camera shake resulting in a blurry picture.
Agreed, the X10 is powerful enough to take great photos and it's up to the user to make the picture look awesome.
Here's the one I took and post processed with Lightroom 3.
diimaan said:
while taking pics in night try night landscape! if it's outdoor!
suggested by mode from esato!
you can check few pics in here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You better have a steady hand in night landscape mode lol.
But it does work well
Per request in another thread I am here to talk a little.about how to operate this camera in manual mode. I've seen complaints about how.it.performs in auto so hopefully what you see in here will make you switch to manual for your shots.
Let me start by saying you won't get dslr type quality out of this thing but the faults the camera does have from my observations, can be fixed in post easily. Now this is just my style and personal opinion, but I've never had a camera phone that took images that I couldn't make better with a little.bit of post editing. Hell even my professional dslr pictures get the editing treatment.
In my real first experience today with the phone I found that it normally takes decent images. The pictures lack a ton of contrast in my opinion and that was what I found myself adjusting the most. Colors are fairly good except I took one macro of a flower in my garden yesterday that was so saturated all the details in the petals were blown out. It was an overcast day which is the ideal lighting situation for a photographer but for some reason the pink flower turned out neon red in the image. I didn't have that happen today, which was a sunny day, so I'll blame that on a fluke shot or maybe the conditions confused the software for one reason or another.
As far as the camera interface, more importantly, knowing where the settings are so you can access them quickly when trying to take the shot. I am happy with what is offered in manual, the only thing I wished I had was an option for shutter speed but I've only had 1 phone that ever had that option so I'm not complaining.
//////Xperia Z1s//////
As far as the camera interface, more importantly, knowing where the settings are so you can access them quickly when trying to take the shot. I am happy with what is offered in manual, the only thing I wished I had was an option for shutter speed but I've only had 1 phone that ever had that option so I'm not complaining.
Iso, shutter speed, and aperture are all related and affect one another. I haven't looked at specs but I'm assuming we are working with a fixed aperture and we can't change the shutter speed so I'll just talk briefly about iso.
Iso is going to affect how sensitive the sensor is to light around you. In other words you would use low ISO when there is plenty of natural or ambient light around, and a high iso for a night shot or for low ambient light like maybe dim house light or candle light. I haven't tested this phone in bad lighting conditions and I haven't browsed through the picture thread so maybe others can chime in on how it does at night and in low light situations. I had an HTC one and people praise that phone for its picture taking in low light but I found that images were too noisy if you tried to sharpen them afterwards imo.
//////Xperia Z1s//////
I never use the auto mode and I suggest no one do. Even though you are somewhat limited in a camera phone you still want to be able to take the photo you want not the photo the phone wants you to take. You may want to blowout those highlights in the background or you may want to underexpose the image. It all depends on your style and preference. This is why manual mode is the ideal why to shoot. Now you might say for street photography or situations where you just have time to get a quick shot shoot in auto. Which is fine, capturing the picture is what's important not the settings in that situation. But even then I would still say adjust the settings beforehand according to the environment you know you're going to be in so you can shoot freely without worrying about adjustments. I remind you everything I've said thus far is all my opinion. So let me move on to the individual settings and what they do.
Resolution
No need to explain this or self timer or smile shutter. I think we all know what those do.
Focus modes
Single auto is just that. A single focus area in the middle of the viewfinder.I don't like this because it hinders composition.
Multi
This simply places multiple focus areas on the screen. Haven't used this yet. I assume it does its best trying to find the areas you want be in focus I guess for group shots or something.
Face detection is self explanatory
Touch
This is my ideal setting. You simple tap the area in the viewfinder that you want to be in focus. Works well because when you use interesting composition you can focus on any area of the scene instead of a fixed place in the center like in single mode
//////Xperia Z1s//////
Object track
Used this today but didn't snap the shot. It did well following a kid jumping around in a bouncy castle and that was through some netting on the side of the castle. Didn't settle on the still net it tracked the girl back and forth Several times.
Iso I already explained
Metering
Center - this will meter the exposure for what ever is in the middle of the scene you are shooting. I don't see why you would use this setting and I don't know why it's on by default. Maybe your subject isn't in the middle, maybe you're using interesting composition and your subject is off center.
Average - this should.be your default. This takes into consideration the lighting in the entire scene and exposes accordingly.
Spot - advanced metering when you want to expose for a certain place in the scene. For example, if you're shooting into the sun and your subject is back lit you could use spot metering to expose for the subjects face. There face will be properly exposed and the background light will probably be blown out which sometimes makes for an interesting photo.
Image stabilizer is what it is. When this is on you can not adjust iso
EV
This is on the fly exposure. If your scene is too dark or too bright in the viewfinder you can adjust this up and down to compensate for the lighting situation. I believe you can adjust in half stops and full fstop increments.
Cloudy / shade - picture of clouds
These are white balance settings. Cloudy is used for overcast cloudy days or when your subject is in shade. It compensates for the cool blues you get in these conditions and will warm up the photo a bit after its taken.
Sun
Opposite of.the previous setting. It will cool the image a bit when the sun is shining and your photos are too warm.
Fluorescent
This will adjust the color balance when you're taking pics under this type of lighting indoors somewhere
Incandescent
Does the same except for incandescent bulbs such as house lamps etc
Now these aren't set in stone. Rules are made to be broken. You may get a cool effect by using fluorescent setting in the shade or under the sun. It's all about experimenting and creativity and getting the look you like.
I know I've been rambling and typed up an essay but I will finish with some images and some before and after shots. Thanks for reading if I made a mistake or if there are questions feel free to ask.
You can follow me on ig @whentheFstops
Before (how the image came out the camera)
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After
Before
After
Before
After
Before
After
//////Xperia Z1s//////
Btw...it was sunny today so my iso stayed on 100 with touch focus. The only thing I changed was the white balance depending on if the subject was in the sun or the shade
//////Xperia Z1s//////
great guide
Well done!
This guide is very useful!
Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk
Thanks for the guide. In terms of post processing on the phone, what app can you recomnend?
Sent from my C6903 using xda premium
Here's another perspective to when people complain about image quality and write comments about the "crappy camera" on the Z1:
"For professional pictures I use my DSLR"
-> You will never carry your DSLR around everywhere 100% of the time even on a holiday. "The best camera is the one you have with you" etc.
"I don't have time to change settings, the moment will pass by the time I'm done"
-> Changing the few important settings (ISO, EV and metering) take but some seconds. A bowl of fruit, a mountain in the background, your duckface or that kid peeing over the fence won't disappear or change that quickly. Unless you are taking a picture of a moving car or train, you won't miss a few seconds.
"The camera software on other phones is much better than the Z1"
-> Yes and they also artificially reduse noise by redusing quality.
"I just want to take a quick snap without bothering with any settings"
-> If you are going to take a picture anyway, do you really have to use an excuse to NOT try to make it a good one?
@twoeleven99 - thanks a lot for the guide. I do have one idea to improve the guide even more with the help of others in this little community. How about sharing some good pictures with the most important settings to give an idea what kind of manual settings (what ISO, what EV compensation, what meterin) to use in different circumstances? Such as a picture in bright sunlight , a picture when it's overcast, various low light scenarios etc. What I mean is that because the classic "a picture says more than a thousand words" holds true - we could use pictures to demonstrate how to think about the camera settings. So next time someone goes out on a cloudy day and wants to take a picture, they could just refer to "ah right, I saw a picture in similar circumstances and it had ISO 200, EV +2/3 and metering average."
Great guide!
I see that it's a matter of taste with the settings. I too use "wrong" WB settings to get what I want.
I like playing with the camera on manual, trying everything to capture a great photo. I'm not a photographer, but I like to make the best out of my phone. I have a planned project in future to show the capabilities of the camera.
I want to make good HDR photos and I was amazed to see that this phone can capture a great photo (HDR edit after, not the HDR from the phone) which can be edited later. I was surprised to see low noise after HDR. But, it's only when you have enough light for the photo, otherwise, you will get too much noise.
I'm in middle of exams, I will post more photos, before after.
Thanks again for the guide. Really appreciate it.
how do you get the after shots? they look so good! do you use a program to add contrast and such?
ikkeeuu said:
how do you get the after shots? they look so good! do you use a program to add contrast and such?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After reading the thread, I was under the impression that the before shots were auto and the after shots were with manual settings. No post processing applied.
Recommend the OP use flickr to upload photos as it makes it easier to review exifs.
thats a great guide ... i will settle down untill you play with scenes .. as every scene got its shutter speed and iso ... starting from 1/10000sec till 0.8Sec
gtizon said:
Thanks for the guide. In terms of post processing on the phone, what app can you recomnend?
Sent from my C6903 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a ton of apps but I usually end up in one of the photoshop apps, snapseed, or vsco
//////Xperia Z1s//////
akselic said:
Here's another perspective to when people complain about image quality and write comments about the "crappy camera" on the Z1:
"For professional pictures I use my DSLR"
-> You will never carry your DSLR around everywhere 100% of the time even on a holiday. "The best camera is the one you have with you" etc.
"I don't have time to change settings, the moment will pass by the time I'm done"
-> Changing the few important settings (ISO, EV and metering) take but some seconds. A bowl of fruit, a mountain in the background, your duckface or that kid peeing over the fence won't disappear or change that quickly. Unless you are taking a picture of a moving car or train, you won't miss a few seconds.
"The camera software on other phones is much better than the Z1"
-> Yes and they also artificially reduse noise by redusing quality.
"I just want to take a quick snap without bothering with any settings"
-> If you are going to take a picture anyway, do you really have to use an excuse to NOT try to make it a good one?
@twoeleven99 - thanks a lot for the guide. I do have one idea to improve the guide even more with the help of others in this little community. How about sharing some good pictures with the most important settings to give an idea what kind of manual settings (what ISO, what EV compensation, what meterin) to use in different circumstances? Such as a picture in bright sunlight , a picture when it's overcast, various low light scenarios etc. What I mean is that because the classic "a picture says more than a thousand words" holds true - we could use pictures to demonstrate how to think about the camera settings. So next time someone goes out on a cloudy day and wants to take a picture, they could just refer to "ah right, I saw a picture in similar circumstances and it had ISO 200, EV +2/3 and metering average."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok I will do that next time I'm out and about taking random pictures.
//////Xperia Z1s//////
farfromovin said:
After reading the thread, I was under the impression that the before shots were auto and the after shots were with manual settings. No post processing applied.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All before pics were taken on manual and the after is edited. You can see the after pics all have had contrast added because like I said this camera and software combination has a severe lack of it in my opinion especially under sunlight. Pictures in the shade weren't so bad.
//////Xperia Z1s//////
ashouhdy said:
thats a great guide ... i will settle down untill you play with scenes .. as every scene got its shutter speed and iso ... starting from 1/10000sec till 0.8Sec
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't know there where scene modes. Do I have to be in auto mode to see them?
//////Xperia Z1s//////
twoeleven99 said:
Didn't know there where scene modes. Do I have to be in auto mode to see them?
//////Xperia Z1s//////
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the scenes you have to be on 8MP in Manual mode. They will show up in the upper left corner right above the EV setting.
One Twelve said:
Recommend the OP use flickr to upload photos as it makes it easier to review exifs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will do. I was going to open a new Flickr account today I will make a folder for xperia pics and will drop a link
//////Xperia Z1s//////
These are straight from the camera, no editing. Also, it was crazy windy and I don't have a tripod for this thing...so they are a bit blurry. If it was calm, these would be a lot better. You can see a few were better than the others (I was using objects to set the phone on and keep it more steady), just luck of the draw due to it being so windy.
I am AMAZED by this camera at night. Just BEAUTIFUL. Up until now, shooting pics at night with a smart phone was a COMPLETE waste of time. Now? Totally doable.
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Were these on Auto
Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
LancerV said:
Were these on Auto
Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, manual. You do have to know what you're doing, but with a tripod setup of some kind, this phone is capable of a LOT.
Thanks for sharing! They definitely look good, it's good to see on manual mode with some understanding of the settings you can get some nice clean shots.
Freshtojeff said:
Thanks for sharing! They definitely look good, it's good to see on manual mode with some understanding of the settings you can get some nice clean shots.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With a steadier hand it would have been even better lol.
AWESOME! i suggested LG to give us more options to camera, like 1080p 60fps, jpeg quality at 100% and slight more control, just like XCAM for G3.
But yeah, nothing can compete with G4 camera, all my friends rape this camera so hard.
IlyaKol said:
No, manual. You do have to know what you're doing, but with a tripod setup of some kind, this phone is capable of a LOT.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mind putting these up someplace so we can check the exifs ?
imgur unfortunately strips them out.
flickr is best, failing which googledrive or dropbox etc.
IlyaKol said:
No, manual. You do have to know what you're doing, but with a tripod setup of some kind, this phone is capable of a LOT.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you mind sharing some of the settings or at least the basic how to use the manual mode? I can see from the pics that you a professional photographer. Would you please outline some instructions for us or at least point us in the direction where we can learn how to shoot with a manual camera? Thanks
One Twelve said:
You mind putting these up someplace so we can check the exifs ?
imgur unfortunately strips them out.
flickr is best, failing which googledrive or dropbox etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See/try attached.
llaugerm said:
Would you mind sharing some of the settings or at least the basic how to use the manual mode? I can see from the pics that you a professional photographer. Would you please outline some instructions for us or at least point us in the direction where we can learn how to shoot with a manual camera? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Photography is a complicated thing with many principles and techniques. I also like to say that it's half luck lol. Right place, right time type stuff (at least for the photography I did/do). In general though, the 'foundation' of knowing how to use a DSLR or in this case a smartphone with manual controls is the following:
Aperture: This is a number signified by something like F1.8 (LG G4). This signifies how wide a lens can open and maintain it's speed (by allowing more light, you can make the shutter speed fast - more on that below); the wider the better because it allows in more light. In the DSLR world, a F2.8 (fast) lens will cost 2x as much as a F4.5 (slow) lens, if not more. For the sake of the LG G4, this isn't really something you can change from what I can tell.
ISO (aka Sensitivity): ISO is one of the more important things to know, IMO. The reason is that it can have a DRASTIC effect on your images if not used properly. The way ISO works is, like aperture, a lower number is better. In the case of the G4, the ISO goes from 50 to 2700 in various increments. Say you go from 50 to 100, what this means is that your camera needs only half as much light for the same exposure because you made it more sensitive to the already existing light. When you change your ISO, you'll notice that your preview on the phone gets considerably brighter each time you go up. The reason why it is important to know how to use ISO properly (in combination with shutter speed) is because the higher you go, the more 'grainy' an image will get. This is why I always try to shoot at 250-300 ISO or below. It's a respectable range. But, the images were dark, so I had to mess with the shutter speed. Keep reading.
Shutter Speed (aka Exposure Time): This is the other vital piece of information you need to know. As I mentioned above, the lower you go in the ISO, the darker your image will be. To combat this, you need to increase the shutter (make it stay open longer) in order to allow more light in to the censor to compensate. If you shoot a picture with a 50 ISO and a 1/30th of a second shutter (reasonably fast), your image may end up being pitch black. BUT, if you shoot an image with a 50 ISO and a 2 second shutter (slow), you'll likely get something that more or less resembles an image. However, with a long shutter, which was my issue with the pictures I posted...you MUST have a tripod. The natural movement (minuscule) of the human body + wind + building shake (I was on a massive plaza with a roadway underneath) will cause the images to be blurred. If I had made the ISO 1000 and the shutter 1/60th of a second (fast), I wouldn't need to really keep steady, but the images would have been very grainy. The shutter on the LG G4 goes from 30 seconds (incredibly slow - you will DEFINITELY need a tripod unless you're dead lol to keep steady) to 1/6000th of a second (insanely fast, but you'll need a TON of ISO to make the image even remotely visible in a darker situation).
Focus: I always shoot on manual focus (even with DSLR) but you can use auto focus. This just means that the camera will try to decide what you're trying to take a picture of (objects close or far) and will focus accordingly. With manual focus, you pick if you want the camera to focus far or near.
White Balance: Honestly, this just changes the 'color' of your photos to be more warm or cool...even when I was shooting weddings I never messed with it on the camera. If I needed to change it, I changed it post-wedding during my editing sessions.
That's very basic and I hope I touched on the important things...may have forgotten a bit here or there but that should get you started in understanding the general concept of ISO and shutter speed and their relationship.
IlyaKol said:
See/try attached.
Photography is a complicated thing with many principles and techniques. I also like to say that it's half luck lol. Right place, right time type stuff (at least for the photography I did/do). In general though, the 'foundation' of knowing how to use a DSLR or in this case a smartphone with manual controls is the following:
Aperture: This is a number signified by something like F1.8 (LG G4). This signifies how wide a lens can open and maintain it's speed (by allowing more light, you can make the shutter speed fast - more on that below); the wider the better because it allows in more light. In the DSLR world, a F2.8 (fast) lens will cost 2x as much as a F4.5 (slow) lens, if not more. For the sake of the LG G4, this isn't really something you can change from what I can tell.
ISO (aka Sensitivity): ISO is one of the more important things to know, IMO. The reason is that it can have a DRASTIC effect on your images if not used properly. The way ISO works is, like aperture, a lower number is better. In the case of the G4, the ISO goes from 50 to 2700 in various increments. Say you go from 50 to 100, what this means is that your camera needs only half as much light for the same exposure because you made it more sensitive to the already existing light. When you change your ISO, you'll notice that your preview on the phone gets considerably brighter each time you go up. The reason why it is important to know how to use ISO properly (in combination with shutter speed) is because the higher you go, the more 'grainy' an image will get. This is why I always try to shoot at 250-300 ISO or below. It's a respectable range. But, the images were dark, so I had to mess with the shutter speed. Keep reading.
Shutter Speed (aka Exposure Time): This is the other vital piece of information you need to know. As I mentioned above, the lower you go in the ISO, the darker your image will be. To combat this, you need to increase the shutter (make it stay open longer) in order to allow more light in to the censor to compensate. If you shoot a picture with a 50 ISO and a 1/30th of a second shutter (reasonably fast), your image may end up being pitch black. BUT, if you shoot an image with a 50 ISO and a 2 second shutter (slow), you'll likely get something that more or less resembles an image. However, with a long shutter, which was my issue with the pictures I posted...you MUST have a tripod. The natural movement (minuscule) of the human body + wind + building shake (I was on a massive plaza with a roadway underneath) will cause the images to be blurred. If I had made the ISO 1000 and the shutter 1/60th of a second (fast), I wouldn't need to really keep steady, but the images would have been very grainy. The shutter on the LG G4 goes from 30 seconds (incredibly slow - you will DEFINITELY need a tripod unless you're dead lol to keep steady) to 1/6000th of a second (insanely fast, but you'll need a TON of ISO to make the image even remotely visible in a darker situation).
Focus: I always shoot on manual focus (even with DSLR) but you can use auto focus. This just means that the camera will try to decide what you're trying to take a picture of (objects close or far) and will focus accordingly. With manual focus, you pick if you want the camera to focus far or near.
White Balance: Honestly, this just changes the 'color' of your photos to be more warm or cool...even when I was shooting weddings I never messed with it on the camera. If I needed to change it, I changed it post-wedding during my editing sessions.
That's very basic and I hope I touched on the important things...may have forgotten a bit here or there but that should get you started in understanding the general concept of ISO and shutter speed and their relationship.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow!!! Thank you for that great introduction to photography. I don't know how good I'll become shooting pics to my two years old that she moves pretty fast. Lol. This post was a great tutorial!! Thank you.
llaugerm said:
Wow!!! Thank you for that great introduction to photography. I don't know how good I'll become shooting pics to my two years old that she moves pretty fast. Lol. This post was a great tutorial!! Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol, that's why I quit shooting weddings, sold my camera gear and bought a motorcycle lol. Shooting humans SUCKS...just too unpredictable and tough to get a good picture. They blink, don't stand still, etc. lol.
For a 2 year old, you're likely going to want to stick to using full auto mode (or at least a fast shutter and high ISO). I'd use manual mode for things like nature pictures, etc. where objects are stationary.
IlyaKol said:
See/try attached.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nope, board attachments are no better, also strip out all exifs
One Twelve said:
nope, board attachments are no better, also strip out all exifs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this zip. I resized the images to 1024 by x but EXIF should still be good.
IlyaKol said:
Try this zip. I resized the images to 1024 by x but EXIF should still be good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see you are in Albany. My in-laws are in Albany and we go there quite frequently. The next time I go to Albany I will invite for a cup coffee!. I'll PM you my email.
IlyaKol said:
With a steadier hand it would have been even better lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok , now i understand better, mostly ISO 200 shots with exposure times ranging from 1/4, some at 0.5s, going up to 1s and the last one at 4s.
the sharpest one i could make out was the 1/4, things get softer at 1/2s and beyond.
if you can pull off a steady handheld 1/4 then the OIS on this thing is working and is as good as on the iP6+
Here is another one I took last night. ISO was 50 and Shutter was 2 seconds. Keep in mind that Instagram badly compresses the images on Android. Also, the bike image was also a 50 ISO and a 4 second shutter (to get the light trails):
IlyaKol said:
Here is another one I took last night. ISO was 50 and Shutter was 2 seconds. Keep in mind that Instagram badly compresses the images on Android. Also, the bike image was also a 50 ISO and a 4 second shutter (to get the light trails):
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you hold the device in your hands or did you use some kind of tripod? Really nice pics.
Galaxicos said:
Did you hold the device in your hands or did you use some kind of tripod? Really nice pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Queensboro Bridge picture was resting on a railing. The bike picture (longer exposure so harder) was held by hand. I have pretty steady hands, all things considered. Tips: put your elbows into your sides and hold your breath. Should steady you.
IlyaKol said:
Queensboro Bridge picture was resting on a railing. The bike picture (longer exposure so harder) was held by hand. I have pretty steady hands, all things considered. Tips: put your elbows into your sides and hold your breath. Should steady you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The bridge picture is really awesome. I don't have a steady hand. I have a DSLR as well and always have issues with this, but resting on something is a good workaround
Galaxicos said:
The bridge picture is really awesome. I don't have a steady hand. I have a DSLR as well and always have issues with this, but resting on something is a good workaround
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, if you can find something to rest on. Unfortunately, not always available lol. I find that sitting down and resting your arms on your knees can sometimes steady the shot too...I get creative lol.
Hi. I've just get the unit today. It was exynos and I find out the camera was truly bad at dim condition. Even when comparing s20 ultra to note 9, the note 9 picture was much better. I have update my s20 ultra firmware to the latest from Samsung.
Look at the face. The s20 ultra result was having what looks like compression artifact. But it's right out of the camera without any editing. This only happen in dim condition. And also this happens to face only since other than face there's no artifact at all.
S20 ULTRA
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NOTE 9
well for one thing it's blurry from the head moving. Second i agree it looks like $hit (no offense to your baby!)
I have no advice other than to say it's unbelievable we could pay $1400 for such an unfinished product..steadily I am losing more and more faith in samsung. At least you were able to get the camera to focus!
We all have similar issues and I think that all of us waiting for the next SW update are customers with a lot of faith. At least Samsung admitted it and if they cannot fix it with the next update then probably most of the phones will be returned.
did you know the 108 megapixel is not on by default? youll have to change the aspect ratio and before you take a picture it should show from the settings which megapixel you are using.
Same. It's very blurry / grainy (yet unnecessarily oversharpened) at the same time in low indoor lighting.
buddy66 said:
At least Samsung admitted it and if they cannot fix it with the next update then probably most of the phones will be returned.
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Can you link me?
xnostra said:
did you know the 108 megapixel is not on by default? youll have to change the aspect ratio and before you take a picture it should show from the settings which megapixel you are using.
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What? The post has nothing to do with (and no mention of) the 108mp mode.
---------- Post added at 05:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:01 AM ----------
dazed1 said:
Can you link me?
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They didn't admit anything. It was I think a Twitter post that said something like "Samsung is committed to delivering the best experience for their customers, blah blah blah constantly working to improve experiences for everyone."
It was generic like that
There was an answer to The Verge that they will work on to deliver the best camera experience. Yes it was generic but camera oriented and it is good that they responded.
xnostra said:
did you know the 108 megapixel is not on by default? youll have to change the aspect ratio and before you take a picture it should show from the settings which megapixel you are using.
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I'm not talking about the 108mpx. Also the 108mpx didn't help with the pict quality.
For now the only solution is to use pro mode.
Senjaya said:
I'm not talking about the 108mpx. Also the 108mpx didn't help with the pict quality.
For now the only solution is to use pro mode.
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Have you turned off bixby scene optimizer? Watched a YT video earlier that claimed turning it off gets rid of the awful skin smoothing effects.
jwwagner25 said:
Have you turned off bixby scene optimizer? Watched a YT video earlier that claimed turning it off gets rid of the awful skin smoothing effects.
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Yes I've try it. No luck at all. The skin smoothing still happening
Senjaya said:
Yes I've try it. No luck at all. The skin smoothing still happening
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I did a pic of myself after the ATBM update and my skin colour was the same as when I turned my head 90 degrees to the side. There was also no smoothing and I could see my pores and other natural stuff
buddy66 said:
I did a pic of myself after the ATBM update and my skin colour was the same as when I turned my head 90 degrees to the side. There was also no smoothing and I could see my pores and other natural stuff
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Did you use your selfie or the main sensor?
If you are using main sensor, could you try using auto mode and Pro mode and share the result to here? Also cna you snap your picture in dim area, since I notice the processing occurred in a dim area was more aggressive than on a bright area.
Senjaya said:
Did you use your selfie or the main sensor?
If you are using main sensor, could you try using auto mode and Pro mode and share the result to here? Also cna you snap your picture in dim area, since I notice the processing occurred in a dim area was more aggressive than on a bright area.
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I have used the main sensor and it was at work during day time with not bad light conditions. I will give it a try in light dimmed area and give you feedback.
buddy66 said:
I have used the main sensor and it was at work during day time with not bad light conditions. I will give it a try in light dimmed area and give you feedback.
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Thanks. And also try move your head slightly when you snap the photo. I'm interested on the result.
Senjaya said:
Thanks. And also try move your head slightly when you snap the photo. I'm interested on the result.
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This. I noticed in your first picture the hair on your child's head is blurry. I have a feeling what happened is there was motion in the photo and in trying to fix the motion created all of the weird artifact effect. you'll notice the hair from your note 9 photo is sharp and clear, likely because there was no motion while the photo was taken.
jwwagner25 said:
This. I noticed in your first picture the hair on your child's head is blurry. I have a feeling what happened is there was motion in the photo and in trying to fix the motion created all of the weird artifact effect. you'll notice the hair from your note 9 photo is sharp and clear, likely because there was no motion while the photo was taken.
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The movement was indeed making the artifact worsen. But it also happen in no movement condition.
S20 ultra bad image processing
In this pict, the baby wasn't moving much (minimal movement) .
Movement make it worse.
This picture was in very bright room, the child wasn't moving and the artefact still happening, and take a look at the woman on the background. The artefact was really annoying
Yes I agree. I just took a photo of the news on TV and the anchors faces look like oil painting. How could Samsung have screwed up this badly...it's really unbelievable. And how more people aren't making afuss, I also don't understand.
jwwagner25 said:
Yes I agree. I just took a photo of the news on TV and the anchors faces look like oil painting. How could Samsung have screwed up this badly...it's really unbelievable. And how more people aren't making afuss, I also don't understand.
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Yeah, I don't know what's going with the silence.
For now I'm using the pro mode with all settings set to auto. This way the picture processing won't happen and the picture was very good.
Senjaya said:
The movement was indeed making the artifact worsen. But it also happen in no movement condition.
S20 ultra bad image processing
In this pict, the baby wasn't moving much (minimal movement) .
Movement make it worse.
This picture was in very bright room, the child wasn't moving and the artefact still happening, and take a look at the woman on the background. The artefact was really annoying
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It seems that the artifacts come from very bad hdr stitching. Try to take some photos with scene optimiser and hdr off, although it would probably make very little difference. The reason some other phones like pixel and iPhone cand take better shots of moving subjects is because they use something called zero shutter combined with a faster shutter. It means that the phone takes a lot of pictures before the picture is taken. Now, Samsung also uses a buffer since s9 with dedicated dram for the camera but probably is much lower and their hdr stiching is not as smart as Google's for example (accounting for movement in the frame). After all this time you'd think Samsung would figure this out but not many companies do this sadly). Also the big sensor that gathers more light should allow the phone to use faster shutter and bigger iso without introducing much more noise ala huwei.