connectors/contacts on back cover? - HTC Aria General

Just wanted to check. There are contacts on the rear cover, that go to contacts in the phone. Can anyone confirm what these are for? I want to say that the antenna is in that cover, and these are to connect the antenna to the phone. I'm about 95% sure i'm right on this, since i lose a few bars of signal when the rear cover comes off, just wanted to make sure i'm right.

I saw this thread and asked the rep while I was in the store today for warranty stuff, he said he has no idea and that it's either for antenna or inductive charging on a supported charging mat, like the palm pre has.
He showed me what the wireless charging thing looked like on his palm and it looked similar. Apparently you just set the phone down on a mat and it charges.
Don't know if that helped any, but it would be cool if it was for charging. I'll keep my eyes open for any accessories that would confirm this.

The back cover is indeed the antennae. And no, it (unfortunately) has nothing to do with a wireless charging method.

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Electrical (what seems to be) contacts on battery cover. Why?

I just noticed that there is a pair of contacts on the inside of battery cover and matching spring loaded contacts in the housing, next to the lower left and right corners of the battery. Anybody knows what are they for?
If they are really electrical, is it possible to detect from software if the bettery cover is removed? Not that this could be used for anything useful, but just curious if that's possible.
vponomarev said:
I just noticed that there is a pair of contacts on the inside of battery cover and matching spring loaded contacts in the housing, next to the lower left and right corners of the battery. Anybody knows what are they for?
If they are really electrical, is it possible to detect from software if the bettery cover is removed? Not that this could be used for anything useful, but just curious if that's possible.
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I'm just guessing but I know that the first version of the car kit involved replacing the back cover....so...I'm guessing it relates to having the car kit plugged in and just putting the phone in the kit without needing to attach a cable in the phone each time.
Did I mention that I'm just guessing.
n11 - Good guess.
Thanks for the tip. So, from what I understand, these contacts are for power supply, correct?
vponomarev said:
Thanks for the tip. So, from what I understand, these contacts are for power supply, correct?
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Well...since Mega Maniac has given such strong support to my guessing ability I'll answer this way: Yep, I guess the contacts are for the power supply.
The contacts are probably for proper grounding since the battery cover is metal. It would be bad to have a static charge differential build up on the cover take out the circuit board. Or it may be that the cove is the antenna. But I doubt that. Just my opinion.
I was thinking within the same line, but more like bettery cover being a shield to prevent any external radio interference. But power connector theory sounds more reasonable. I'm NOT going to verify this theory by applying 5V to these contacts.
vponomarev said:
I was thinking within the same line, but more like bettery cover being a shield to prevent any external radio interference. But power connector theory sounds more reasonable. I'm NOT going to verify this theory by applying 5V to these contacts.
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I'm now guessing that you are a very smart person...grin.
Just for the record I dont have the HTC navigation car mount, but if you are talking about the teo connections either side of the back cover then I cant see what else it would be. Essentially my opinion is as much of a guess as n11, but I would bet my HD2 on it, because there is just about nothing else it could be.
I'd like to know for certain what these are for as well.
Grounding
These connectors are probably grounding, if you see on the cover the paint is striped away where the connectors meets the cover.
If this was in anyway connected to the battery for charging it would short out the battery since the cover is made of metal.
Just Checked With my multimeter and there is a direct connection between the two points, and also between the screws and the two points, so grounding it is.

Check your wireless charging ASAP

In a sample of 4 devices, 2 did not work with a Qi Charger.
I think I saw a post around here where someone took the back off and cleaned the contacts that connect the coil on the back cover to the battery charger and Qi started working for him. I've got a Qi charger on order from Hong Kong (which means it will sit in customs in New York for some unknown number of weeks before I get it). It will be interesting to see if it works on mine. I've already noticed that NFC is kind of spotty (which I think uses a similar antenna and contact system).
There is a thread about this. One person found that there was some gunk near the Qi connector pad when opening up the unit. Once they cleaned it off, Qi started working.
A couple of others repeated the process and it also got their Qi charging working.
However opening up your unit can be a little hit or miss on whether you crack the case as you need to wedge something thin in between the two halves and run it around until the tabs all separate.
I would just exchange it if Qi charging is important to you.
If you will probably never use it but have an otherwise good unit (no dead pixels, no abnormal backlight bleed, no multi-touch issues, etc.) then it might be a harder decision because you might pick up new problems in your efforts to resolve an issue you'll likely never use.

Should I buy original wireless charging back or Qi receiver?

I need an expert advice in choosing Samsung original charging back or this Qi receiver. I have gotten used to with NFC to toggle things and I need NFC to work. Right now I have NFC cards (Mifare smartcards) pasted at the back of my desk and I use it over the desk that is 2 cm thick. I don't even have to touch phone to the desk for NFC to work. I hover 5mm above and Tasker takes over (with one profile I copy files off network drive). With so much of automation, I cannot go back to NFC working sporadically or working when I have to physically touch the card.
I do not use protective cases as I want my phone looking slim and sexy. And I heard original wireless back cover is too thick. Please tell me how thick it is. And if you are using Qi receiver, please tell me if you can read tags through 2 cm thick wooden table.
And I found NCF compatible Qi receiver in Amazon (click here). I have a question to people who own original samsung wireless back cover - is there buffer space between back of the cover and battery for thermal insulation? It would justify additional thickness.
I wish someone checked temperature difference at the surface of the battery when using Qi coil vs original back cover.
Having used both, I can assure you that the OEM cover is best for NFC, and I don't even notice the extra thickness. I even prefer the look, as the camera no longer sticks out. It's the only solution that works adequately with my NFC activated BT adapters, and is much more forgiving about placement on the chargers.
---------- Post added at 09:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 AM ----------
And... It's the only solution I've found with working tap to pay.
rcobourn said:
Having used both, I can assure you that the OEM cover is best for NFC, and I don't even notice the extra thickness. I even prefer the look, as the camera no longer sticks out. It's the only solution that works adequately with my NFC activated BT adapters, and is much more forgiving about placement on the chargers.
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Thanks I ordered original wireless charging back.
Buy the original wireless charging back, at least that won't void your warranty if something goes wrong.
Anyone using the qi enabled s-view flip cover? I'm wondering if it's possible to charge the phone with qi when you have the flip cover open and put it on the back of the phone?
Would be nice if it worked as I would be able to use wireless charging in my car while running waze.

Charger for Motorola Defy Question

Hi,
I just recently had to have my charging port resoldered into my Motorola because it finally failed and ended up coming out of the phone housing on the charger connector. Prior to that, the phone was connecting to the charger, and I had two I was using. One in my car and one in the house. After I the port fell out, and until I could take it to a phone fixer, the workaround was I was charging and swapping out batteries with a Motorola Blur. What was weird is that both phone housings look identical; however, the older phone would pick up both chargers, and my Defy would not.
After they soldered in a new charging port a couple of days ago I left with clear assurance that everything was working great, and charging was a-go. Mmmhmm. On my way back home, which was an hour from the repair place, and tried to hook it up to the charger in my car. Still not charging. When I called the repair place they suggested checking it with my home charger too, once I got back home and then let them know if there was still a problem. They reassured me they had hooked up to several chargers while it was there, and all were good.
I got home, tried the home charger, and still no connection. This time when I called them back I got another person who started asking about my charger and the little lines on the underside of the metal piece that inserts into my phone. She asked if the metal tracks met the plastic on the back end of the charger itself or whether they stopped with a gap between the tracks and the plastic housing. On both my chargers I saw the tracks did NOT meet the plastic, and she said they only use Samsung chargers in their shop because it creates a better connection, and some phones need that.
Pretty sure the chargers I have were not OEM chargers for this Motorola so I am going to try to get to a place with Samsung charger so I can puzzle this out, but I am confused in that one Motorola charges and the other doesn't.
Any experience or ideas or suggestions????
Kristie

Is the vibration motor supposed to be soldered to the motherboard?

Hi,
Please can anyone tell me whether the little connector on the vibration motor is supposed to be soldered to the motherboard or does it just touch at a certain place?
I've already posted another thread about having replaced the battery but it doesn't seem to charge.
Without going into details all over again, a local repair shop replaced the charging port last week - my phone was returned in seemingly working order but they had assured me a bulging battery was OK. I charged my phone but the battery was draining quickly, which was what led me to research a bit more and discovered how dangerous it can be so I ordered a new one.
In the process of fitting the new battery, I discovered half the screws in my phone missing, no copper tape, plus there is no black rubber cover over the charging port & vibration motor as is shown on the guide for replacing the battery on the fixit.com website.
So I'm wondering if the small square 'connecctor' (?) part of the vibration motor ought to be soldered to the motherboard or is it just normally held in place by the black rubber cover? In my phone now, the 'connector' doesn't stay touching motherboard so I'm not sure if this would affect the phone and stop it from functioning or would it just mean the vibration wouldn't work?
Would this affect whether the battery could charge or not?
(Incidentally, I discovered that the the battery connector was upside down compared to the pictures in the ifixit.com guide (the red wire was nearest to the battery instead of the black wire being nearest) so I was hopeful that by correcting it to match the picture, I would have solved the problem but unfortunately, it didn't make any difference. When I connect a wall charger, the screen just flashes and when I connect it to my laptop, it just gets a blinking white led but nothing more. It seems strange to me that it wouldn't make a difference - is it like a usb-c cable in that it can go either way round?)
The battery seller asked for photos of the new battery in my phone and has now offered to replace it - is this likely to make a difference or is the vibration motor not being attached to the motherboard the cause of the problem?
I'll be so grateful for some help.

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