htc leo camera enquiry - HD2 General

hi peoples. i got a question which bug is quite sometime.
maybe i am the only who encounter it. when ever i wish to take a photo.8 out of 10 the image is blurry or smudge. this may be the first device i am using that encounter this sort of problem. is there any possible way to make it better? maybe some meant say that my hand shaken abit on the moment it snap. but there is time i tried shake my hand right on the moment i snap the photo and it seem fine. but 8 out of 10 is blurry or smudge out.
will like to thanks people out there who know how to solve it and thanks alot for spending time on read this thread
hide.

no issues here 1.66 rom perfectly focused.

Is your ISO on auto? If not, put it there. If so, try forcing it to like 200 or 400.

mazzarin said:
Is your ISO on auto? If not, put it there. If so, try forcing it to like 200 or 400.
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thanks guys for the reply.
as for iso. can any 1 really explain what is it ? i had try setting iso to 400. but the pic still look blurry as usual.

.hide said:
thanks guys for the reply.
as for iso. can any 1 really explain what is it ? i had try setting iso to 400. but the pic still look blurry as usual.
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ISO is the camera's sensitivity to light, the more sensitive the setting (higher number, i.e 800) the better the capture in darker situations (the image quality overall, however, will suffer and become 'grainy').
Is the camera set to touch focus?

rp-x1 said:
ISO is the camera's sensitivity to light, the more sensitive the setting (higher number, i.e 800) the better the capture in darker situations (the image quality overall, however, will suffer and become 'grainy').
Is the camera set to touch focus?
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hi rp. thanks for the explanation on the iso.
ya it was set as touch focus

.hide said:
hi rp. thanks for the explanation on the iso.
ya it was set as touch focus
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Click to collapse
Try switching touch focus off and take a few pictures. Does the situation change?

does not change. i notice using flash the blurry seem to be gone. but without, it kidda a mess.
p/s. how do i enable metering mode? its gray out on my option.

.hide said:
does not change. i notice using flash the blurry seem to be gone. but without, it kidda a mess.
p/s. how do i enable metering mode? its gray out on my option.
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Are you taking pictures in dark areas or in daylight?
Metering mode is greyed out on mine also.

you're just moving your phone while taking pictures, hence resulting in blurry photos.
Having the flash turned on allows for shorter exposure times, so even if you move your hand you won't notice much blur.
Just try and hold your breath while being still as much as you while while you shoot pictures

rp-x1 said:
Are you taking pictures in dark areas or in daylight?
Metering mode is greyed out on mine also.
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i am taking on daylight
@ ephestione
ok . at least i learned something new from hd2. thanks alot dude~

good tip to reduce blur in pictures is to set the "brightness" setting to lowest.
This is not actually brightness but exposure time, so shorter exposure means less change to capture you shaky hands.
Pro Tip: also good idea is not drinking 2/3 bottle of whisky in the night and try to take phone 1st thing in the morning

rumpleforeskin said:
good tip to reduce blur in pictures is to set the "brightness" setting to lowest.
This is not actually brightness but exposure time, so shorter exposure means less change to capture you shaky hands.
Pro Tip: also good idea is not drinking 2/3 bottle of whisky in the night and try to take phone 1st thing in the morning
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Click to collapse
so meaning reduce brightness will shorter the exposure time?
sorry yah. if my question sound silly. i am a total noob in camera stuff

.hide said:
so meaning reduce brightness will shorter the exposure time?
sorry yah. if my question sound silly. i am a total noob in camera stuff
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yes, becuase the "shutter" is opened for less time, like on a real film camera, the longer its open the more the light reacts with the film, if left open for a long time it will be completely white, if opened and shut extremely fast it will be black...
so, in regards to digital cameras, its the same principal with i think a small lcd screen? registering light.. anyway, its complicated!
so yes is the answer to your question hope this makes a little more sense!

tc3_racer_001 said:
yes, becuase the "shutter" is opened for less time, like on a real film camera, the longer its open the more the light reacts with the film, if left open for a long time it will be completely white, if opened and shut extremely fast it will be black...
so, in regards to digital cameras, its the same principal with i think a small lcd screen? registering light.. anyway, its complicated!
so yes is the answer to your question hope this makes a little more sense!
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wow thanks tc3. realy appreciate for your time for replying me . appreciate

rumpleforeskin said:
good tip to reduce blur in pictures is to set the "brightness" setting to lowest.
This is not actually brightness but exposure time, so shorter exposure means less change to capture you shaky hands.
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Click to collapse
Do you have a source for this statement? There is usually a difference between exposure and brightness (see http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread653.htm for example) so it would help a lot to know exactly what the HTC HD2 camera "brightness" does.
[edit: I just took five pictures of the same thing, outside in the sun, with varying levels of brightness - they all ended up with the same exposure time.]

also check the camera glass isnt covered in crud

Related

Camera quality? Different leneses?

I have an Cingular 8525 and two of my buddies have another 8525 and a softbank X01HT. Why do my pictures suck in the dark and there's don't. They have the same good quality in the dark while my pictures come out very blurred and dark. I checked the adjustments and they were the same. Me and my friend both have the same rom on the 8525 and everything! I don't get it? Did HTC start shipping different lenses after time? Has anyone else noticed this?
benfica88 said:
I have an Cingular 8525 and two of my buddies have another 8525 and a softbank X01HT. Why do my pictures suck in the dark and there's don't. They have the same good quality in the dark while my pictures come out very blurred and dark. I checked the adjustments and they were the same. Me and my friend both have the same rom on the 8525 and everything! I don't get it? Did HTC start shipping different lenses after time? Has anyone else noticed this?
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My Tytn is not good in the dark. I doudt there is anychange in the lens but there may well be a difference in the auto light level increments. Before you ask how you could change that - I don't know. Don't even know if it's possible.
Mike
I dont believe that this is caused by lens. maybe version of Camera program is little bit different or some DLL file (but you said, it is the same). anyway you can compare it or try version from Trinity (it is here somewhere) but this version have not comfortable installation and do not support front camera and light I guess. But if your device is newer like the others, then maybe HTC used different (and perhaps cheaper) CMOS chip - I dont know, it is only speculation, but it is nothing unusually when electronic company uses cheaper components in newer pieces.
Ill try to get a picture so you guys can see the difference and what I mean. Adjusting the settings does nothing, in fact, it makes it worse for mine...
benfica88 said:
Ill try to get a picture so you guys can see the difference and what I mean. Adjusting the settings does nothing, in fact, it makes it worse for mine...
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That would be interesting to see. It's not that we don't believe you, just that we don't think it's the lens that is different. My Tytn as I said above is very very poor at night but great for sunny day photos. I think in my older Tytn it is set too low for light exposure. It seems to adjust itself in incremental steps to the light level but in dark conditions it does not give nearly high enough a light exposure level. It is entirely possible in later/different models this hard coding has been adjusted for better results.
Mike
mikechannon said:
That would be interesting to see. It's not that we don't believe you, just that we don't think it's the lens that is different. My Tytn as I said above is very very poor at night but great for sunny day photos. I think in my older Tytn it is set too low for light exposure. It seems to adjust itself in incremental steps to the light level but in dark conditions it does not give nearly high enough a light exposure level. It is entirely possible in later/different models this hard coding has been adjusted for better results.
Mike
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Ya, I just want you guys to see it. It's not a minor difference. Mine is so bad I don't even try to take photos at night, while my buddies' has unbelievable night photos...damn htc!
benfica88 said:
Ya, I just want you guys to see it. It's not a minor difference. Mine is so bad I don't even try to take photos at night, while my buddies' has unbelievable night photos...damn htc!
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I feel your pain, I have this problem with mine (TyTN) too. It takes really bad pictures in dark areas, and most pictures look too dark and blurry even when there is a decent amount of light. I saw many cheaper phones doing a much better job. Really a shame.
My htc tytn also takes crappy night pictures. the front camera takes better ones at night. hell every other cell phone i had in the past and all of my friends phones take better night pictures.
very lame on htcs part.
is there a way to change how the camera detects light in video or still mode. the camera keeps adjusting to much during different contrast of the back ground that is being recorded
with a well lit area. i would like to sample the light of one area and lock its exposer time permanently.
Could it be software related? I mean, i've installed now Black Satin and i have the impression that the photoquality has gone down in the dark compared with the Black Dymond release. Or am i just imagining things?

Camera Flash - Disable Bright Mode?

Is there a way to not use bright Mode when taking photos. I am finding it is making medium to close up shots too bright and over exposed. I can't believe there isn't an option in the camera settings not to use it. with the normal mode the images seem too look ok in the preview then the bright mode ruins it when you take the shot.
anyone else experienced this?
Is it just me then?
Have you tried changing the brightness settings? You can also adjust the Contrast, Saturation and Sharpness in the Advanced settings.
I personally haven't had any problems with shots being too bright and over exposed.
you probably haven't used your flash then! try taking a picture of a group at dinner, looks fine in preview then bright-mode turns everone into ghosts!
richardirv said:
Is it just me then?
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No it's me too..................
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=588153&highlight=dissapointing+camera
mkent_barbados said:
you probably haven't used your flash then! try taking a picture of a group at dinner, looks fine in preview then bright-mode turns everone into ghosts!
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Ah ha, finally someone who knows what I am talking about.
Me too, its rediculous. Trying to take close up pics of people faces, everyone has their eyes closed! Its as bright as a xenon flash but instead of flashig for a split second, it stays on for over a second!
Wow, that is strange. I have no such issue when using flash. My white balance is set to auto and picture quality at super fine. My only issue when using the flash is that my face seems blushed rather than flushed.
for me its not about the quaity of the photo or any settings, its just the fact that the flash blinds people
I agree, even my black friends are coming out white.
I've found a way around it,
already posted it too, but no one seems to be caring.
Install the App TorchButton.
Then, before taking a picture at night in closeup (with overexposure usually)
Turn on Torchbutton (mode 1 bright or mode 2 very bright), then go to camera and disable camera flash. Torch button Flash still stays on and the camera now meters the current brightness and doesnt add any bright mode anymore.
Now you get quite decent pictures.
It sounds complicated but it works great on closeup pics
Example of the difference below
Pic1 camera without Torchbutton
alibehzad said:
I've found a way around it,
already posted it too, but no one seems to be caring.
Install the App TorchButton.
Then, before taking a picture at night in closeup (with overexposure usually)
Turn on Torchbutton (mode 1 bright or mode 2 very bright), then go to camera and disable camera flash. Torch button Flash still stays on and the camera now meters the current brightness and doesnt add any bright mode anymore.
Now you get quite decent pictures.
It sounds complicated but it works great on closeup pics
Example of the difference below
Pic1 camera without Torchbutton
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up
I updated my ROM to 1.48 and now I have the exact same "bright" problem and man is it annoying. I'll take a look at the reg to see if anything has changed.
fredskis said:
I agree, even my black friends are coming out white.
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hahaha now that's funny. agreed, same problem here. in fact my wife says i cant take picture of the kids anymore because it makes them cry its so bright lmfao.
i never thought that i would hear the camera flash on a mobile phone being "too bright" and blinding people
Getting mine tomorrow.. Stupid fedex already has it in my town since morning but won't deliver because it's not due until tomorrow!
here4info said:
i never thought that i would hear the camera flash on a mobile phone being "too bright" and blinding people
Getting mine tomorrow.. Stupid fedex already has it in my town since morning but won't deliver because it's not due until tomorrow!
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Click to collapse
yup, and all of this after the problem of there not being enough lightin the past. lol one extreme to another
alibehzad said:
I've found a way around it,
already posted it too, but no one seems to be caring.
Install the App TorchButton.
Then, before taking a picture at night in closeup (with overexposure usually)
Turn on Torchbutton (mode 1 bright or mode 2 very bright), then go to camera and disable camera flash. Torch button Flash still stays on and the camera now meters the current brightness and doesnt add any bright mode anymore.
Now you get quite decent pictures.
It sounds complicated but it works great on closeup pics
Example of the difference below
Pic1 camera without Torchbutton
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the work around, but I'm sure you will agree that in most cases when you just want to take a quick snap we will either forget to turn torch on or just won't be bothered because you don't want to fiddle around. It would be nice to have a button in the camera to turn bright mode off.
Lets hope HTC are listening to the forum! and not got the blinkers on!
Is there any tweak out there to reduce the brightness ? Every picture is over-exposed when the flash is activated.
Thanks.
fredskis said:
I agree, even my black friends are coming out white.
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Click to collapse
yeah right on koala
richardirv said:
Thanks for the work around, but I'm sure you will agree that in most cases when you just want to take a quick snap we will either forget to turn torch on or just won't be bothered because you don't want to fiddle around. It would be nice to have a button in the camera to turn bright mode off.
Lets hope HTC are listening to the forum! and not got the blinkers on!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The issue behind this is that the camera meters and focuses on the initial flash (assist flash) and then when you press the shutter button, the bright flash (shutter flash) comes up leaving no time for the camera to react to the new light conditions.
I've found that in these circumstances the best is to set forced flash on so that the metering is done properly.

White Balance a bit off?

In daylight the white balance set on Auto looks a bit like the white balance for fluorescent. If I set it manually to daylight it looks fine.
Anyone had this issue?
PS: Running DC 3.1.2
that can often be true for digital cameras set to "auto". The best way to take pictures with any digital camera (not just the evo) is to manually set your white balance according to the type of light you are using.
liquidkernel said:
In daylight the white balance set on Auto looks a bit like the white balance for fluorescent. If I set it manually to daylight it looks fine.
Anyone had this issue?
PS: Running DC 3.1.2
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Click to collapse
Just remember, the original intent of the Evo was to make phone calls and to be as a mini computer more or less,, not really to replace your digital camera. Let's not get picky about every little thing now . (Sorry if that sounded condescending, not my intention)
Yeah, I've noticed the same thing. WB is off a bit.
Also, I've noticed that when using flash up close... The pictures are almost always way overexposed.
yeah and I noticed that if you cover the lens with your finger the picture is black....WTH
<sarcasm = off>
mysterioustko said:
yeah and I noticed that if you cover the lens with your finger the picture is black....WTH
<sarcasm = off>
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Hahahaha lol
Geosama said:
Just remember, the original intent of the Evo was to make phone calls and to be as a mini computer more or less,, not really to replace your digital camera. Let's not get picky about every little thing now . (Sorry if that sounded condescending, not my intention)
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Well of course. I just don't bring my Canon 7D everywhere.. on top of that I have 20lbs of lenses and other bodies.
For what it's worth it works.
I cannot tell very well the WB, because I'm using the Sprint anti-glare screen protector.

HTC one great phone, lacks focus

I mean it in a literal sense.
If you look at the image below, youll be able to see that its a bit blurry,
I've drawn 2 black lines in the image, notice that the top and the bottom is blurry and the center is focused.
It doesnt occur alot, but it does happen and sometimes even in videos.
Any help as to why? Perhaps 4.2.2 might fix this?
I think the DOF is so narrow because the lens has a wide aperture of F2.0 which helps in low light.
RoSonic_ said:
I think the DOF is so narrow because the lens has a wide aperture of F2.0 which helps in low light.
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Click to collapse
Can you explain what DOF is?
Is there anyway I could fix it? You think anyone else has this problem?
"depth of field (DOF) is the distance between the nearest and farthest objects in a scene that appear acceptably sharp in an image." - (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field)
And I don't think it's a problem. It's just how the lens is made with a large aperture to allow more light in to the image sensor.
You could try to compensate this a bit by increasing the sharpness from the camera menu.
I'd be more concerned with the poor dynamic range shown in the top of the pic. ;O)
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta
That`s totally normal for the one, it only exposes the focus point, instead of the whole image, could htc not have given us a choice
John.
americasteam said:
I'd be more concerned with the poor dynamic range shown in the top of the pic. ;O)
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta
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Tinderbox (UK) said:
That`s totally normal for the one, it only exposes the focus point, instead of the whole image, could htc not have given us a choice
John.
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Well that sucks. One of the reasons I bought this phone was for the camera.
Do you know anyway I could fix this? or atleast minimize it?
The problem is when the image contains both dark and bright areas, if you focus on the bright, the dark areas will be underexposed and if you focus on the dark the bright areas will be overexposed, you need to find an area to focus on that will give you an average exposure for the entire image.
I have the same problem, but some photo`s are amazing and some are utter crap.
Try using hdr mode, it takes multiple images at different exposure levels and then integrates them into one photo, but you need to keep the phone very steady, hopefully HTC will fix this problem.
John.
uzman1243 said:
Well that sucks. One of the reasons I bought this phone was for the camera.
Do you know anyway I could fix this? or atleast minimize it?
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Click to collapse
Mine does this as well. Easiest fix I've come across is just tapping on the screen in the area you want focused...it seems to hold focus better after the first time and the photos look a lot better.
Problem is, I generally forget about this until after the first picture is taken without it. So it's a process for sure.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
Has anybody tried some other camera apps from the play store, maybe we can find one that exposes correctly, i wish the one had my nikon`s matrix metering
John.
---------- Post added at 06:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------
I bought this Camera Zoom FX app for £0.50p on sale that i never used, i think it`s about time i tried it.
John.
Mine is the same way. Wasn't bashing the camera was just giving my first impression of the pic posted. I think the camera is excellent for a phone. Small sensor and tiny optics will only go so far. This device is fantastic as an overall package.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta
The sensor is great for a phone camera, but the software that does the exposure is very very poor or am i missing something???
John.
You rack focus
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
Why are all you guys saying this is normal? Either you have defective phones or you don't know how to take pictures! ... The only time my One does this is when I use touch to focus on Macro mode. I have taken hundreds of pictures and no pictures look like yours unless I wanted them to.
Agreed. The picture in the OP looks like an issue with OIS, not depth of field.
If it was a one time thing then this thread doesn't need to exist. If it happens a lot the phone needs to be replaced.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
NxNW said:
Agreed. The picture in the OP looks like an issue with OIS, not depth of field.
If it was a one time thing then this thread doesn't need to exist. If it happens a lot the phone needs to be replaced.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
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Click to collapse
Well its not a repetitive condition but occurs once in a while. Even in videos.
Try camera fv-5 from playstore. DSLR style camera app with multiple metering modes.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta
AllAboutTheCore said:
Why are all you guys saying this is normal? Either you have defective phones or you don't know how to take pictures! ... The only time my One does this is when I use touch to focus on Macro mode. I have taken hundreds of pictures and no pictures look like yours unless I wanted them to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do think it's a flaw in the camera software that exposure and focus can't be decoupled. I LOVE the shallow depth of field but can't use it property because touching-to-focus blows out highlights.
uzman1243 said:
I mean it in a literal sense.
If you look at the image below, youll be able to see that its a bit blurry,
I've drawn 2 black lines in the image, notice that the top and the bottom is blurry and the center is focused.
It doesnt occur alot, but it does happen and sometimes even in videos.
Any help as to why? Perhaps 4.2.2 might fix this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of these comments come from people who have no idea what they're talking about.
Your phone is perfect. Nothing wrong with it. All you did was tap to focus on the middle of the picture.
This did 2 things.
1. It will FOCUS on the center of the pic. Other areas will be blurred. Hence the term, focus. That's how cameras work.
2. The exposure was adjusted to where you focused it to. What does that mean?
If you focused on a light area the camera will adjust the exposure to compensate. What that means is if it's light, the camera will darken the overall image. Lights become darker, farms become darker.
If the photo is focused on a dark area, the camera will adjust the photo by making the dark area brighter and the bright areas, as a result, brighter. Which is why you have super white skies.
To fix it, go to the camera settings and I think select touch to capture. But to say fix means it's a problem.
It's not.
For landscapes, use landscape mode which will focus on the entire image and bot blur. Also you can tap on the area where you want adjusted, ie brighter or darker. Blur again is only cause you focused. Don't focus on landscapes.
Photographer here. Focus on this comment and not anyone who says your phone is messed up. This is why.
Take a look at my two attached photos. One I clicked on the sky and the other I clicked on the grass. Light then dark. Can you figure out which was which and see what happened to the photo?
Note that it was overcast and cloudy. There were NO BLUE SKIES. it was grey. So the sky wasnt killed by the camera
Btw don't always use Hdr. Don't. Its not a saving grace every time. If you shoot in the sun you're shooting in the sun. Photography rule #1: DON'T.
ALWAYS USE THE SCENES WHEN YOU CAN. WHICH IS WHY THEYTE THERE AND EXIST. SLRS HAVE THEM TOO FKR A REASON!
As for the lines, panorama? Did you move too fast? That's what happens when you do - camera can't stitch properly
Sent from my HTC One
chc31 said:
Most of these comments come from people who have no idea what they're talking about.
Your phone is perfect. Nothing wrong with it. All you did was tap to focus on the middle of the picture.
This did 2 things.
1. It will FOCUS on the center of the pic. Other areas will be blurred. Hence the term, focus. That's how cameras work.
2. The exposure was adjusted to where you focused it to. What does that mean?
If you focused on a light area the camera will adjust the exposure to compensate. What that means is if it's light, the camera will darken the overall image. Lights become darker, farms become darker.
If the photo is focused on a dark area, the camera will adjust the photo by making the dark area brighter and the bright areas, as a result, brighter. Which is why you have super white skies.
To fix it, go to the camera settings and I think select touch to capture. But to say fix means it's a problem.
It's not.
For landscapes, use landscape mode which will focus on the entire image and bot blur. Also you can tap on the area where you want adjusted, ie brighter or darker. Blur again is only cause you focused. Don't focus on landscapes.
Photographer here. Focus on this comment and not anyone who says your phone is messed up. This is why.
Take a look at my two attached photos. One I clicked on the sky and the other I clicked on the grass. Light then dark. Can you figure out which was which and see what happened to the photo?
Note that it was overcast and cloudy. There were NO BLUE SKIES. it was grey. So the sky wasnt killed by the camera
Btw don't always use Hdr. Don't. Its not a saving grace every time. If you shoot in the sun you're shooting in the sun. Photography rule #1: DON'T.
ALWAYS USE THE SCENES WHEN YOU CAN. WHICH IS WHY THEYTE THERE AND EXIST. SLRS HAVE THEM TOO FKR A REASON!
As for the lines, panorama? Did you move too fast? That's what happens when you do - camera can't stitch properly
Sent from my HTC One
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The black lines on the image, I DREW to show where it gets blurred (not panaroma).
You're right, but when I focus on the center, all objects in the background should get blurred right? I mean thats how the focus works. You focus on a particular subject (lets assume in the foreground) the objects in background gets blurred.
If you see the image I uploaded (in the top line) the upper part of the tree is blurred and the lower part is focused.
It doesn't work like that right?

V20 Bug - Purple Shadow when Taking Night Pics with Wide Lens

Hi Everyone,
Have a look at attached example image to see what I mean.
Please try to take a manual shot with your wide lens in a very dark environment with very high ISO (3200 in example) and exposure time of 5secs plus (20 secs in example).
Everyone who has tried that so far has the same issue, a big purple shadow on the top. It's most likely the laser and it won't happen with the normal lense.
Do you have the same result? Any suggestions what we can do about it?
Whoa! I haven't seen that in a long time. I think maybe around the time of the Nikon D80. I can't currently try this out personally but by the sounds of it what has happened is called Amp Glow. It's when you kind of start getting out of the bounds of what is really acceptable shooting conditions for a given sensor. In this case, if you really are shooting in conditions that call for high ISO AND still need a shutter speed of 20 seconds and the image still comes out that dark, then you're way beyond realistic expectations for shooting with a cellphone. In the older DSLRs, people would see it when doing star trail photos that were 10 minutes or longer. Frame stacking software became the solution to this problem by taking a lot of shorter photos and stacking them up and pulling through the new dots of light. (And this is still used by a lot of photographers as it also gets rid of other forms of noise.)
So what is happening? ISO is pretty much the gain. It's the amplification being applied to the signal coming off of the sensor. Ideally with ANY camera, you want to stay as close to the base ISO of a given sensor. That's usually the lowest ISO number. (There are some exceptions where some camera manufacturers have done some trickery to get a lower ISO to show up but that was short lived as it didn't really help things.) Unfortunately, image sensors are not hanging in space. They're packed in with a ton of other stuff. Stuff that gets warm. If that stuff is near an edge of the sensor, that heat bleeds into the sensor and then those warmed pixels get amplified by the higher ISO and next thing you know, Amp Glow. Well, that's the simplified version at least.
A cellphone, any cellphone, is not designed for those kinds of shots. If they were, they would have a tripod mount, a much better flash, and a much larger sensor. (Yeah, the flash on your cellphone is not meant to light up stuff much past 5 feet. Even the ones built into a DSLR aren't meant for much past about 15-20 feet.) The reality is that cellphones are designed for handheld shots with decent light. Even the larger sensor used in some cellphones shouldn't be expected to pull any miracles that top end DSLRs are just barely pulling off cleanly. For that shot, you would want to use a dedicated camera locked down on a tripod using base ISO and long exposure at the very least. Although, personally, I'd probably just take a pass on that shot.
someone on reddit has the exam same issue with the wide angle. and someone said it's in the regular too. weird. my s7 never had this purple hue when I did even 30 second exposure at night.
Sent from my LG V20 US996
something obstructing the lens maybe, or just camera went bad
Better hope this isn't the same problem the HTC one m7 had with the purple haze. The culprit was a light sensor on the camera would overhear and give a purple haze on the screen in low light. Place the phone face down and with the camera on and see if the purple comes back.
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Dark Jedi said:
Better hope this isn't the same problem the HTC one m7 had with the purple haze. The culprit was a light sensor on the camera would overhear and give a purple haze on the screen in low light. Place the phone face down and with the camera on and see if the purple comes back.
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No, it won't happen with the same ISO/Shutter settings I took the previously attached photo. But maybe that's because it's not dark enough. Did the M7 issue only happen in dark enviornment as well?
CHH2 said:
Whoa! I haven't seen that in a long time. I think maybe around the time of the Nikon D80. I can't currently try this out personally but by the sounds of it what has happened is called Amp Glow. It's when you kind of start getting out of the bounds of what is really acceptable shooting conditions for a given sensor. In this case, if you really are shooting in conditions that call for high ISO AND still need a shutter speed of 20 seconds and the image still comes out that dark, then you're way beyond realistic expectations for shooting with a cellphone. In the older DSLRs, people would see it when doing star trail photos that were 10 minutes or longer. Frame stacking software became the solution to this problem by taking a lot of shorter photos and stacking them up and pulling through the new dots of light. (And this is still used by a lot of photographers as it also gets rid of other forms of noise.)
So what is happening? ISO is pretty much the gain. It's the amplification being applied to the signal coming off of the sensor. Ideally with ANY camera, you want to stay as close to the base ISO of a given sensor. That's usually the lowest ISO number. (There are some exceptions where some camera manufacturers have done some trickery to get a lower ISO to show up but that was short lived as it didn't really help things.) Unfortunately, image sensors are not hanging in space. They're packed in with a ton of other stuff. Stuff that gets warm. If that stuff is near an edge of the sensor, that heat bleeds into the sensor and then those warmed pixels get amplified by the higher ISO and next thing you know, Amp Glow. Well, that's the simplified version at least.
A cellphone, any cellphone, is not designed for those kinds of shots. If they were, they would have a tripod mount, a much better flash, and a much larger sensor. (Yeah, the flash on your cellphone is not meant to light up stuff much past 5 feet. Even the ones built into a DSLR aren't meant for much past about 15-20 feet.) The reality is that cellphones are designed for handheld shots with decent light. Even the larger sensor used in some cellphones shouldn't be expected to pull any miracles that top end DSLRs are just barely pulling off cleanly. For that shot, you would want to use a dedicated camera locked down on a tripod using base ISO and long exposure at the very least. Although, personally, I'd probably just take a pass on that shot.
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Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. My question here would be, why doesn't it happen to other phone-cameras with similar settings?
Kujoja said:
No, it won't happen with the same ISO/Shutter settings I took the previously attached photo. But maybe that's because it's not dark enough. Did the M7 issue only happen in dark enviornment as well?
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. My question here would be, why doesn't it happen to other phone-cameras with similar settings?
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Yes the m7 only happened in low light / dark environment. Do a Google search for HTC one m7 purple haze. What caused me not to buy another htc phone
Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
Kujoja said:
No, it won't happen with the same ISO/Shutter settings I took the previously attached photo. But maybe that's because it's not dark enough. Did the M7 issue only happen in dark enviornment as well?
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. My question here would be, why doesn't it happen to other phone-cameras with similar settings?
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Click to collapse
Settings aren't the only part of the equation. The other par is the placement of other components within the device. I need to look at the tear downs to see how the various parts are placed next to each other but something is heating up and passing that heat to the sensor. Just off the top of my head there are four parts together; the two camera sensors, the laser focus module, and the flask module. Each one of those on its own will generate heat if used enough.
Dark Jedi said:
Yes the m7 only happened in low light / dark environment. Do a Google search for HTC one m7 purple haze. What caused me not to buy another htc phone
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It's the same issue. I haven't looked at the HTC issue but from your description of it, it's the same. Amp glow is what it is called in digital photography. (OK, silly that I said digital as you don't get amp glow in film.) The glow will show up because there is no other data coming off of the sensor for those pixels and the heat is amplified as "data".
---------- Post added at 05:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------
Ok, just watched the JerryRigEverything repair tear down. The flash module sits right next to the wide angle and the laser focus next to the regular sensor. There is no mention as to what is sitting next to the sensors on the main board but I see silver boxes on each side with one having some sort of black and yellow warning sticker. Not sure what they are so I can't rope them in as culprits. So for now, I'd say it's a combo of the four units of the camera assembly.
Were you running the flash or one of the cameras a lot while you were playing around? Shooting a lot of long exposure shots in a row?
I'll get to test out some night shots and video tonight at a lighting ceremony but I'm still not expecting to shoot 3200 for 20 seconds type shots. Again, that's pretty extreme.

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