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So I read this fuzemobility.com article about battery life and thought I'd write a super long comment with sweet hyperlinks but it turned out to be too long for their blog configuration. So my XDA friends, here it is. I invite you to contribute any tips and insight you may have to the handful of gems I came up with about gems other people came up with:
WMLongLife by Chainfire, the venerable codemaster known most for wmwifirouter (even though his other work is awesomely impressive), drops you down from H*/3G to EDGE when your screen shuts off for a minute. It will also kill the data connection if inactive for a minute. When you turn the screen back on, it stays on edge, but if you start an app from a 3G whitelist you make, like including Opera and SiriusWM5 but not FlexMail, that app will kick it back into 3G. Switching from edge to 3G takes roughly six seconds he says but probably worth it if you like to save yourself battery (and your gonads from radiation).
Thread
Lumos by nik3r is a great replacement to HTC's included backlight adjusting system. It uses the light meter and you can specify how dim you're willing to go in dark conditions and how bright you have to have it in sunlight. You can tweak every point in between if you want, define what conditions you believe to be bright (and warranting full backlight juice) and dark (running low power). Very low cpu usage, low memory, no battery drain when not using the phone, no cpu involved with fluttering backlight levels, delightful gui frontend, fun to configure. Requires phone with a light meter like the Raphael and Diamond.
Thread
IMAP-Idle or push activesync or instant messaging or PocketPuTTy or PocketIRC or PornTube or anything that keeps the data connection open, even with very little throughput going on, drains substantially harder than having no data connection (just phone, SMS) so use that knowing you're sacrificing battery life (which I do). I'm not sure about this but if you like to use AIM and have an unlimited text messanging plan, using an sms-based IM client like OZ Messenger/Mobile IM may use less juice than something like Agile or IM+ which keeps the connection alive. What I am right about is insisting that you use Outlook Email Scheduler to specify Pocket Outlook synchronizing frequencies over peak and off-peak hours, brilliant program (also does imap idle!!). So with this, in addition to "push" mail which now supports gmail (it's actually called IMAP-idle with non-Exchange mail servers), you can set your phone to cycle pocket outlook synching, say, every five minutes during the day and every half hour after 10pm, whatever you want.
Thread, website.
This one is more for convenience than it is a miracle battery saver, but Touch InCall Screen Tweak by StevePritchard shuts your screen off when you take a call and put the thing to your head and, using the light and g-sensor, when you pull it away as if to dial in your calling card it lights it back up and when you put it back to your head, it dims it. Very handy. The NoSleepRaphael killer.
Thread.
I definitely do not recommend trying this if you are afraid of danger or bricking your phone but here are two links for you crazy underclockers. I can't tell so far if it does in fact successfully throttle my processor, I can't tell if I was able to get the speed back up either by setting it back or by uninstalling, I just don't know but here it is. Couldn't find much feedback so if any of you know how to test battery drain and also don't care about warranty compliance, maybe post results in this thread which I have no doubt will blow up into huge popularity . You must have a Qualcomm MSM7XXX(A)-based processor, so google first to double check:
nueDynamicClock, nueClockControl
Raphael/Touch Pro/Fuze users: Make sure you got the right radio with the right rilphone.dll properly installed. If you're AT&T grab 1.12.25.19, not 1.14.25.05 (I've only seen mixed reviews and I myself was not breathtaken it), and then Chainfire and P1Tater's 1.12.25.19/rilphone.dll combo cab. If you're not AT&T, I believe you want to stick to 1.11.25.01 (and grab the right rilphone cab accordingly). If you're fully Olipro-unlocked, you probably know enough about non-Raphael radios and don't need my advice.
Raph radios, Chainfire/P1Tater raph rilphones.
Rhodium Manila is badass, I know, and I have a lot of respect and appreciation for xboxmod and his posse (I'm really in awe) but don't use Rhodium Manila if you want to save battery life (or ram or storage or cpu) more than you want to be dazzled by TP2TF3D. Use pjc's ripped oldschool HTC Home (vga) with TodayAgenda underneath. Maybe SPB Mobile Shell's better than regular Manila, it's probably better than Rhodium Manila (in terms of battery at least) unless you're spinning the 3D stuff nonstop. I don't know about WM6.5's efficiency. Just flashed it. If you know, post. SPB Mobile Shell's trialware btw.
PJC's HTC Home thread, TodayAgenda's site, SPB's site.
If you try to do your own power tests to contribute your scientific studies to your local Ultimate Radio Thread, keep in mind that in lower signal areas your phone must crank out bigger radio waves to reach the tower. So you must be careful to keep everything constant except the variable, the radio, including the time-range during the day you do battery and bandwidth tests (including weekdays versus weekends when switching from one to the other) as in dense areas, capacity gets maxed out with carriers who don't have enough infrastructure to handle the loads. I get this all the time even in Manhattan where you'd think AT&T would get their poop together.
You could cruise through the Accessories forum of your phone (here's the Raphael's) to hunt down an extended life battery but those tend not to be cheap, they make your phone thicker, you have to recalibrate your phone's mechanism to measure battery power and the initial charging training is a ***** and there's a chance you'll get ripped off so consider just buying an extra OEM battery and maybe an extra charger for your office. They fit well in that little secret pocket of your jeans, unless you already use it for a zippo lighter.
Contrary to popular belief, there is no memory effect issue with lithium ion batteries. Don't do full discharges with this intent. Don't do that. Your battery's longevity diminishes over usage, including deliberate discharges. Best bet, for a phone you rely on, is to charge whenever you can charge. Yes a battery's longevity diminishes faster over time if you store it with a full charge (verus 50%) extendedly, but hey, you need that sucker ready to go so use it and buy another one eventually. Temperature and resistance also accelerates decline meaning if you use an equivilant amount of milliamp hours over a week with your phone on standby versus four hours using GPS or wifi, and you do this a lot, it takes a heavier toll on your battery. If you have two batteries and tether or GPS or wifi a lot and then are in situations where you don't do that, consider designating with a sharpie one battery for brutal use and the other for light use. If you're draining heavily over long periods of time while charging your phone, that eats away at your battery's long-term longevity the same as if you used it and then charged it. Actually probably a little more because charging your battery heats it up even hotter than tethering all your pr0n which hurts. Two batteries. Drop $45 at your local dealer or search on froogle to save a few bucks.
According to IRC, there is no idle drain difference between regular 3G and HSDPA (but there is between either of those and EDGE). It all comes down to throughput, not the protocol; however, if you're in a rural area where there is only EDGE, you probably want to shut off 3G as, I'm told, your phone eats up considerable juice by trying to search for a 3G tower. Note that charging on USB theoretically gives you 500mA tops (more like 400 at best) whereas your charger is 1A (at least for the TP). If your phone gets hotter than 43 degrees celsius (use BatteryStatus or this Battery.zip which is a ppc exe to monitor temperature and drain) it will, based on my studies, charge slower, and not at all at 47. ABCPowermeter, by the way, does not work on Touch Pros and I'm guessing on its cousins either.
That's it I'm done.
Doug
Very nice post. Thank you.
Thanks for the write up.
I really appreciate it and some of the methods actually works for me.
All the best!
check it
This dude bauerpavel made a pretty badass pimp tight post on batteries. I didn't really read it but I can tell at first glance that he knows what he's talkin' 'bout.
Thanks for the info. I found this really well written & concise
d0ugie said:
So my XDA friends, here it is. I invite you to contribute any tips and insight you may have to the handful of gems I came up with about gems other people came up with:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice roundup, well done! So, not much left to add. Still, this is my contribution:
Like Touch InCall Screen, cleanRAM isn't a miracle battery saver. But scheduling it and not letting it wake up your device to clean your RAM, could also increase battery life if it kills zombie battery draining processes. And managing your memory this way also keeps you from soft resetting, saving battery.
In Advanced Config, enable all the Power Management settings. And I have Network - Turn off Wi-Fi if no activity: set to Yes; Network - Wi-Fi auto off timeout: set to 1m; and in Menu - More settings - Connections, enable Disconnect after: set to 45s. I don't know how much impact the G-sensor and Light sensor polling intervals have on the battery. But it probably won't hurt if you increase them to a level that works for you.
Apart from all the nice sensor based (un)locking and launching features this lightweight application offers, I have TouchLockPro set to suspend my Diamond again after 5s, after it is woken up without unlocking it. Enough time for me to unlock it. Or just check the time or check whatever application running in the foreground at the moment of suspend. Because TLP has no foreground window like S2U2 or PocketShield.
Using a locking mechanism is already a battery saver by design, by the way. As it prevents unwanted key and touch screen actions that could possibly have an effect on your battery life.
I'm also used to suspend my device myself whenever I think I won't use it for some time. As long as it doesn't take too much time. So I've set the G-Sensor options in TouchLockPro to lock and suspend when I place it face down on any surface. And it also locks and suspends on top down. So I just have to put my Diamond upside down in my pocket, as I always do, and have it locked and suspended.
When it lies face up, I don't need to pick it up and rotate it in any way. I just keep the WinMo start button pressed for about 1s, because the QuickMenu option Long-press win logo is set to suspend.
Just in case I forget to suspend it myself I have the WinMo Settings - System - Power - Advanced options set to the lowest possible settings. Backlight off after 10s and Device off after 40s on battery power. And I have Backlight - Auto adjust backlight disabled for Lumos, of course. There's just one problem. Sometimes, somehow, Backlight - Auto adjust backlight is enabled and both Advanced - Turn off backlight and device are disabled. Without me knowing. I've noticed it a few times after a soft reset, but I can't reproduce it at will. Maybe I'll look for a way to force my power settings after soft reset.
d0ugie said:
ABCPowermeter, by the way, does not work on Touch Pros and I'm guessing on its cousins either.
Doug
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
acbTaskMan (which includes CPU and power graphing ability of acbPowerMeter) does have a version compatible with the newer HTC devices. I'm using 1.4.2 on my HTC Diamond.
Another Way of Switchiing Phone Band
Another way to switch phone band, based on MortScript and Vijay555's VJOKButt. Very lite but it works, check here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=3726097&postcount=11171
Be careful with any automatic band switches as if it does it during a phone call it WILL drop the call. Also keep in mind that if you force things to EDGE you cannot do voice and data at the same time.
In my experience, there is zero power usage difference in EDGE and 3G/HSPA except when transferring data. If my phone is running its normal compliment of programs (GPSToday, S2U2 2.02, PhoneAlarm, KaiserNotification, AEButton Plus, GPSGate, CellID (uploads CID to predefined location if changed every 10m), etc, the phone runs <1%/hr battery. If I enable Flexmail, which has two online IMAP mail boxes and about 6 others it syncs every 6 hours, 7-8%/hr on 3G, 3-4% on EDGE. So as the OP mentions, it's data usage/throughput/type but not necessarily just being connected, has to be in use.
As for backlights, personally I can't stand those programs that autoadjust the backlight as it ALWAYS fails in my office where the phone gets in the shadows and then I can't read the screen because it's too dim. But perhaps still useful if you can set how low it can go, as long as it doesn't interfere with PhoneAlarm, which I use to set the backlight for some given profiles (night time, car daytime, etc).
Good post, hope some people learn from it.
Yep...
You're fricken awesome.... Need I say more?
I just thought I should point out that you can see a marked improvement in battery life when using TF3D2 if you go to the internet tab/menu/data settings and disable push pages!
where i tup your .exe ?
in internal folder ?
khaytsus said:
Be careful with any automatic band switches as if it does it during a phone call it WILL drop the call. Also keep in mind that if you force things to EDGE you cannot do voice and data at the same time.
In my experience, there is zero power usage difference in EDGE and 3G/HSPA except when transferring data. If my phone is running its normal compliment of programs (GPSToday, S2U2 2.02, PhoneAlarm, KaiserNotification, AEButton Plus, GPSGate, CellID (uploads CID to predefined location if changed every 10m), etc, the phone runs <1%/hr battery. If I enable Flexmail, which has two online IMAP mail boxes and about 6 others it syncs every 6 hours, 7-8%/hr on 3G, 3-4% on EDGE. So as the OP mentions, it's data usage/throughput/type but not necessarily just being connected, has to be in use.
As for backlights, personally I can't stand those programs that autoadjust the backlight as it ALWAYS fails in my office where the phone gets in the shadows and then I can't read the screen because it's too dim. But perhaps still useful if you can set how low it can go, as long as it doesn't interfere with PhoneAlarm, which I use to set the backlight for some given profiles (night time, car daytime, etc).
Good post, hope some people learn from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, if I understand correctly, the option "disconnect data connection after xx min" will not change the battery consumption ?
I can let my Phone continuously on HSDPA or EDGE with no difference, only when I use the connection.
other question, wich one (EDGE or HSDPA) consume more power when transmitting ?
thanks
Maybe this Battery Guard application could prove handy for battery conservation fanatics
Thanks for this post. I am about to get a Touch Diamond and have heard about poor battery life. This post gives me some confidence that I should be able to tweak my device.
pwye said:
Thanks for this post. I am about to get a Touch Diamond and have heard about poor battery life. This post gives me some confidence that I should be able to tweak my device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a HTC mate & the battery life will always be crap, its the price we pay to be cutting edge i guess
i request all the great people here to please provide me the Best Settings for my Diamond white colour Indian version so that i can improvide ma battery life
it satys not more then one and a Half 1 1/2 Day (36 housr)
plz a request..
turn off automatic backlight adjust in "settings > power > backlight"...
1. Turn off 3g connection if you can. That alone adds an extra 20% life to my phone. This works especially well in places where the 3G signal is weak.
2. Download Advanced Config Utility (you can find it on this site) and enable all the extra power management settings.
3. Set your backlight lower. You can also try downloading some software that automatically adjusts your backlight in a much more efficient way than windows itself. I use "Lumos" and its also available on xda.
4. Some users might not agree with this, but if u spend alot of time on the phone, you can try setting your diamond to "fast sleep" during calls using Advanced Config. If you're using cooked roms, there are lots that default to "not sleep" during calls. I dont know how much this makes a difference, but it seems to squeeze a bit more life out of my battery.
Get a better battery... See the Diamond Accessories Forum http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=431. However, these do make the diamond thicker and cause problems with cradles etc.
Use Wi-Fi only when necessary
Use Bluetooth only when necessary. You can download a program which automatically turns bluetooth on only when charging and turns it off when not charging. This is good if you (like me) only use bluetooth in the car for the headset.
Make sure programs are not running in the background (use a free ram program)
better battery
hi
i bought a very cheap charger from ebay which i keep at work
if i reckon i need it, i plug my phone into the car charger en-route to work
main thing that helped me get better life out of the battery, other than making a few reasonable adjustments to backlight etc, is simply whenever i'm not using the phone, immediately tap the top button to turn off the backlight. i have a sensor lock program to lock/unlock the phone and it locks it when backlight is turned off (works most of the time anyway)
doing this usually means i get a full day or more out of it, unless i'm using it heavily, which means i'm at work and can therefore use the charger.
hope this helps
sp
With the HD2's pretty short battery life compared to my previous HTC phones, and also as I was a bit bored , I decided to have a look at how much the different systems drain in the HD2, and did some tests.
So for anyone interested, here are the results:
Base consumptions: (pick the one that suits your situation)
Standby, phone on, WIFI+BT off, no connections active: 5mA
Processor running idle, screen off, connections as above: 55mA
100% CPU usage (Coreplayer benchmark), connections as above: 315mA
USB connected, connections as above: 125mA
Additions: (add this to the base one depending on what you have on)
Connections:
BT on, idle: +1mA
Wifi on, idle: +5mA BUT!! If you enable wifi during standby (with BsB Tweaks or the WifiNoStandby CAB), the processor does NOT go to standby
anymore, so the base needs to be the 55mA above!
Connected to EDGE, idle: not measureable
Connected to 3G, idle: +4mA
Beware those 2 will occasionally and unpredictably send data every now and then, so this doesn't necessarily mean much.
BT transfer (file copy through ActiveSync, 120kB/s, CPU usage ~2%): +80mA
Wifi transfer (file copy with Wifi Remote access, 1MB/s, CPU usage ~3%): +200mA
EDGE/3G transfer: Pretty impossible to measure due to so many variables, but can be extreme (total current consumptions of 850-1150mA, so very approximative 500-800mA draw from the data connection during page loads are common!), and leads to most of the energy draw when using the net a lot. EDGE uses more power than 3G, consumption is higher when network coverage is lower, bad network throughput or congestion also mean lots of retries/overhead and less effective data transfer, using power for a longer time until the data is finally there.
Memory access (large file transfer):
Internal read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 2.5 / 2.1 MB/s respectively): +20mA / +130mA
Card read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 3.2 / 2.7MB/s respectively): +25mA / +40mA
Card read/write in USB disk mode (speeds 7.5 / 5MB/s respectively): +40mA / +45mA
Backlight:
10%: +65mA
20%: +78mA
30%: +90mA
40%: +105mA
50%: +121mA
60%: +136mA
70%: +154mA
80%: +170mA
90%: +190mA
100%:+210mA
GPS:
+95mA
Flashlight (with HTC Flashlight):
Level 1: +32mA
Level 2 (same as camera flash on): +107mA
Level 3 (same as camera "bright flash during shot"): +530mA
And remember the battery capacity: 1230mAh
So with this you can calculate your battery life for various activities. For example:
- Playing a video with full backlight: Let's say the video is well encoded (30% CPU use, for example 720x400 1Mbps DivX), that's about 150mA base, + 210mA backlight = 360mA, resulting in about 3h20 battery life.
- Same at night with only 40% backlight: Life goes up to about 5h!
- Wifi during standby for an 8h night, or a program that somehow prevents the phone from entering standby: 60mA or 55mA respectively, draining about 40% of the battery during that time.
- GPS program, with 70% backlight: Let's assume 150mA for the processor as it has some work to do, 90mA for the GPS, 154mA for the backlight = 394mA, or 3 hours.
- Music through wired headphones, screen off: the 55mA base plus a little 5mA as MP3 decoding is nothing for the CPU = 60mA or 20h.
- Same with a BT headset, with about half the BT bandwidth: 60+40 = 100mA or 12h
etc.
Charging
[EDIT 14.04.10]
This is now a dedicated section as I did some more thorough charging tests.
So, as some of you might know, the HD2 has 2 charging "modes".
- One is USB, that is used if the phone is connected to a PC, or an unknown device. In this mode, the current the HD2 will draw from the port/charger is limited to approx. 470mA, to stay within the maximum of 500mA a USB port can supply.
- The other is "dedicated charger", which is recognised on the original HTC charger (and some others, it's becoming a standard for a "dedicated charging USB port") by shorting of the 2 data pins of the USB connector in the charger.
USB charge
Important to know, during USB charge, the phone will NOT go to sleep, as it's supposed to be connected to a PC, and be running either ActiveSync, Disk drive mode, or modem, and in all 3 cases would be expected not to shutdown. So not only the current supplied to the HD2 is low, but the phone draws some of it for itself, leaving very little for actual charge - so expect loooong charge times.
USB charge with screen on (backlight dimmed, 10%): 285mA
USB charge with screen off (standby): 345mA (which shows the processor still runs and draws the "base USB" current)
Dedicated charger
When used with a charger that has the 2 USB data pins shorted, such as the original charger, the HD2 will draw a current that is proportional to the voltage on the USB power lines. To measure this I have used the original supplied USB cable, a variable regulated power supply, USB socket (with data pins shorted), and 2 meters for voltage/current. Voltages are measured at the "PC" end of the USB cable, so not taking account of losses in the USB cable. Will talk more about this later on.
Current vs Voltage diagrams are attached. Charge current is proportional to voltage, linearly until it reaches the max charge current, approx 830mA. This was measured so that the only draw is charge. If the phone is turned on while at max charge current, it will draw extra, until it reaches about 980mA, and will then stop to respect the 1A rating of the stock charger.
Now, to the influence of USB cables. I initially had some trouble with inconsistant numbers, phone only drawing 670mA from the stock charger, i.e matching neither the ~350mA from USB, or ~830mA from stock charger in "normal" condition. Turns out that to make it more convenient on my workplace I was using an USB extension between charger and HD2 cable. It was a $2 extension I bought on Dealextreme. Removing it solved the problem... and after making those measurements I poked with it again. Turns out that at 1A current, the voltage drop in the extension (which by the way isn't longer than the HD2's USB cable) was 1.8V! Yep, nearly 2 Ohms for a 1.5m extension! Couldn't believe it.
I have a cheap Chinese microUSB cable that wasn't as bad,but still significantly more resistive than the stock one, hence me noting I used the stock cable for my tests. So, quality of the cables, extensions, adapters IS important! Note the phone correctly reaches full charge current a little bit under the 5V USB spec, so everything is well tuned.
Now, important to know, Most 3rd party chargers will not have the 2 USB data pins shorted, and will thus result in the same behavior as mentioned under USB charge, the processor will also be running continuously drawing the "base USB" current.
It is often possible to modify 3rd party chargers by opening them and shorting the pins, speeding up charge. The voltage/current curve behavior is actually helping there, because thanks to it if the charger is overloaded its voltage will most likely fall a bit, and the HD2 will thus draw less and find a nice balance point. This DOES NOT mean there's no possiblilty of damaging the charger, but all 3 I modified did well. One that was really weak resulted in not much more current being drawn after the mod than before (i.e voltage fell very low, approx. 4.4V), however the gain from not having the processor running like in USB mode still sped up charge a little.
Thank you, that is one useful chunk of comprehensive information
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%... nice to know battery drain goes up twice from 10% to 60%!
Also, 100% is usually really necessary under direct sunlight, in a normal lit room probably 40% backlight is more than enough to watch a video... all in all, with your superinteresting info, the battery doesn't look like lasting "too short" now, but more or less "the right amount considering the battery capacity".
My iPaq 210 has a 2200mAh battery, just to make a comparison... that's why I could go for 8 hrs during some bus trips while watching tv series, and I just needed to swap battery and used a little of the second one.
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Battery levels
I found that power consumption of the battery got even worse after I went to Rom 1.66.707.1. However, after a few days, I let it run all the way out, switched back on, it ran out after a few minutes. Then after an overnight charge I found the battery (on standby) only went down by about 10 -12 % in 24hrs. I'm hoping this performance will continue.
What did you use for the testing?
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be reasonable as reading from an external media will need energy to access its contents... still, once the app files have been loaded into the device's RAM, it shouldn't matter much
You could also test by comparing:
1) copy say 30mb from one location to another of the internal mem
2) copy from microsd to microsd
3) copy from mem to microsd
4) copy from microsd to mem
ephestione said:
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
ephestione said:
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really? You should force the backlight off then
I love bright images myself, so even in my bed in total darkness if I watch a video or photos I'll force 100% backlight I have Lumos set to force 100% for Coreplayer, Resco Photo manager and HTC album
Of course not for browsing or just messing around, in that case it's 20% for me
Shasarak said:
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's one thing I'd have no idea about... I've never used push email at all. And that's "standby usage", so hard to evaluate, as you never know when it kicks in.
Measuring that would need to be done on a long time. I'd say to leave your phone one night with push email off, one night with Exchange only, and one night with hotmail only, and then check the difference, preferably with a battery at about 80% charge at the start (mine seems to fall from 100% to 90% in a few minutes before becoming more regular, so I'd say the top of the scale isn't that reliable).
And I should really try push email once, that would be nice, but I *think* I have no provider that can do it for me... well I have a gmail account I never use, I should try to see if I can have it check my usual 3 mail accounts, aggregate and push... never really looked into that stuff.
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Well I'd tend to refute that theory, because when I tested the BT and Wifi in use I tried read from internal memory, write to internal, read from card and write to card, and all 4 were identical. I should have mentioned it indeed, but I was mostly interested to seeing if reads (wifi/BT "sending") and writes (wifi/BT "receiving") would have an influence on consumption, which wasn't the case, as well as whether the throughput was different, which wasn't the case either.
But I've done a few more tests, see the updated first post
One intersting thing is firstly that when the HD2 is connected to USB, the current draw grows significantly, so I've made a new "base consumption".
Next, the card is actually faster than the internal memory both in reads and in writes, tested both through activesync for consistency. Writing to the internal memory eats a LOT more than writing to the card. Reading from the card eats a little more than reading from internal memory, probably evens out as the reads are shorter due to faster transfer rate.
I've added some charging tests as well. Apparently, even if the phone "disconnects" from USB when turned off, the processor still runs and uses about the "USB connected" base current.
kilrah said:
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
d'oh aebplus has a battery information screen, checking it right away In that case you'd have to take into consideration aebplus' current absorption anyway... which is not measurable as you cannot check the current intake of aebplus without aebplus being running
I have the cab on the sd already, but didn't install if after noticing that didn't work for button assignments with later versions of the rom... does it work for you on that side? I used the program all the time on my previous ipaq because it was oh so useful but never got around to notice it had a battery info subsection.
Really? You should force the backlight off then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't have much sense doing it in the dark would it (admitting it's possible altogether on the HD2!)
But I actually used my oooold casio cassiopeia, about 7 years ago, with backlight turned off, while reading ebooks with speed reader plus during train trips, as the neon lights created a reflection good enough on the display so that I didn't need backlight...
in the end, the backlight died altogether and until I bought a new device, I managed to use it with light turned off
A flashing LED (incoming SMS warning, e.g.) seems to add consumption of 1-3mA.
Running FlexMail in background with a push service (IMAP IDLE) adds up to 30mA.
ephestione said:
does it work for you on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AEBPlus works fine for me yes... but I don't have a "latest version" ROM AFAIK. I don't like WM6.5.x new softkey arrangement, so I'm staying with 6.5.
Anyway more about Push, I configured that through gmail yesterday, and it works just fine. I left it on during the night, and this morning I had lost 8% battery. So it's pretty much negligible. I received 2 e-mails during the night and was on 3G network.
this is a nice topic! i am interested in how much extra it uses when you are playing a MP3 with the build in HTC app?
maybe it would be a nice idea to make a program that outputs results like you pasted fast and easy (something like a benchmark app) so we can test different rom's fast? too bad i cant write anything otherwise i would try..
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
my test,
HD2 rom 1.66
with BT on and BT off (configured but no connection to headset) difference in consumption is 60mA .!
BT is draining my HD2 .!
kilrah said:
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Yup. review over multiple 6 mins. all baseline(3g/brightness) setting the same. resetting each time for off on BT.
kilrah said:
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another consideration:
Data connection sucks power when used actively. Badly. As mentioned in the OP I haven't made comprehensive tests due to low monthly allowance, but I've had a look during normal use.
I'm pretty regularly doing 1hr train rides, during which I will be listnening to music , and browse the net at the same time. It's usually bright, so backlight will probably be at 70%. Signal is relatively low most of the time, on EDGE, inbetween small towns. When I'm on a "static" page (reading an already loaded page), current drain varies between 250 and 350mA.
But while loading a page, it will easily soar to 800mA+. Considering it takes 30-60 seconds to read a page, 20 to load a new one, and repeat... you can quickly see that this kind of usage leads to serious drain... in less than 2 hours the battery would be dead.
So be aware of how much power data connection will use. It's directly proportional to the amount of transferred data, and the worse the reception the more power it uses.
I should try using opera mini again, like I was always doing on my Kaiser. I never noticed excessive drain with it, but opera mini easily divides traffic by a factor of 10...
Just wanted to report that the new version of the superuseful BattClock has now a builtin battery current output, even if it's not really update once per second... seems more like one every 10 seconds.
I get ~240mA playing fullscreen stretched Frasier in lowest backlight (but that's with the keypad leds turned on all the time, I don't know why they don't go off, and I don't have keypadledcontrol installed... so that's a problem), and I get a total 630mA with HTC flashlight at maximum.
Good news! Bye bye Batti
Normal about the refresh time, the sensor only updates every 20 secs or so.
Some new considerations I posted somewhere else but should have put here.
After some time the HD2 seems to have better battery life, but usually it's not your battery lasting longer, it's just you not spending your day playing with the thing anymore.
It's always the same thing, the more a device can do, the more you do with it. On my first 1h train journeys after getting my HD2, I was able to kill 50% battery in 1hr. My first thought was "wow, with my Kaiser I would only use like 15%!!"
But then I took a second thought. I used 50%, but I was browsing the web, in bad reception areas, while listening to music the whole time. With my Kaiser, I'd put music on, check 3 webpages, then put it on the tray with just MSN connected and just pick it up to read/type a message once in a while.
On a next trip, I "forced myself" to do the same with the HD2. Just checked the news for 5 mins, then only listened to music and picked up msn once in a while, plus an unexpected 10min phone call. Guess what? I've only used 20% battery during the trip this time
The "problem" is that browsing with the Kaiser was just painful, so I'd just check the news and put it away. On the HD2 it's so comfortable I forget it and just spend my whole trip browsing heavy pages, which obviously kills battery in no time...
exactly my thoughts and findings
Most of my droid using colleagues are quite impressed at how i manage to squeeze so much battery life out of my handset. I thought it was time to compile and share my tips and tricks with the community. I get about 20+ hours with relatively heavy use
First some caveats.
This is what I personally do - and I simply want to share if some of these tips and tricks can be useful for others. Your personal mileage will vary and not all of these tips will be applicable to all users. With that in mind, these are my personal requirements and phone capabilities which affect my strategy for longer battery life:
Some sort of data Connection Always On
At least 2,000 in quadrant after standard boot
Background Data Always On and AutoSync always on
WaveSecure and LBE Security Service Always On
Google Voice for sms and call forwarding/routing
1000 minutes + 5gb data grandfathered plan - so no use for major data monitoring and no use for wifi calling
Frequent use of bluetooth stereo headphones in conjunction with Amazon MP3 and Google Music Beta - music synced then listened to, rarely streamed
Infrequent use of Pandora
Required ROMS, Apps and Programs
Cyanogen Mod 7 Latest Nightly (kernel of your preference)
Tasker
Autostarts
Root Explorer
Titanium Backup (useful, not required)
Step 1: Remove CM Bloat
Before and after flashing a nightly I run Titanium Backup and backup all system apps just in case something gets ****ed up during what I do next. In general, I uninstall any apps i don't use and backup + uninstall any apps i use very infrequently.
I then uninstall the following:
File Manager (replaced by root explorer which is far more powerful)
Sound Recorder (keep in mind, im using GV for SMS and do not use MMS),
Music (replaced by the new google music from market and amazon mp3)
Voice Dialer (i've never understood the need for this when we have google voice search)
Home Screen Tips
Magic Smoke Wallpaper (if you don't use it)
Music Visualization Wallpapers (if you don't use it)
ADW Launcher (if you don't use it)
Gan Optimizer and Wifi Calling
Email (i only use gmail app and have it setup such that other accounts are forwarded, labeled, and gmail can SEND AS: other account)
FM Radio (people still listen to FM after howard stern went to satellite?)
Dev Tools (I never find a need for this)
Keep in mind all of these are backed up in case you decide you want them back or something breaks. Also, you might need to force close out of kineto/wifi calling before the uninstall through applications -> running services.
Step 2: Settings
I don't **** around with Render Effect for battery savings - it only helps on AMOLED screens (confirmed by c00ller here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14509485&postcount=4)
I have auto brightness disabled and use the status bar swipe brightness to adjust
CPU Governor: I prefer Smartass if available, if not then interactive, if not then on demand. I used to use Pershoot - but I think i now prefer Umaro or stock.
CPU Clock: I have this set to 1.2mhz. Honestly, its faster than most phones out there both in how it feels and quadrant score. 1.5 seems like overkill - and it will drain the battery faster. This really comes to personal preference though. Min should always be lowest frequency.
to make the system feel faster, i make all animations fast in spare parts. as a result, i do not use the screen on/off animations.
VM heap @ 32 mb
lock home in memory, use jit, enable surface dithering
GPS Always On
Step 3: Take control over startup
This where autostarts comes into play. Note that both After Startup and Connectivity Changed are triggered on boot - so this is where things need to be disabled. Here is what i have disabled:
xda premium
(Amazon) Appstore
Messaging (I only kept messaging so i can recieve t-mobile alerts)
Springpad
Maps (should be disabled unless you are a big latitude user)
Amazon MP3
Skype (keep enabled if you do sync and want to be signed in on boot)
Ebay (keep enabled if you have auction alerts on)
Touch Pal Dialer (still deciding if i like this or stock)
SyncMyPix
ROM Manager Premium License
DropBox
Netflix
Shopper
Firefox Beta (keeping this app around to see if it ever improves vs stock or dolphin)
(Google) Earth
(Google) Docs
Note that this isnt fully comprehensive for what u would want to disable - in general keep the google apps enabled and any apps u know should run at startup (for example those that receive push messages) or that you want to poll immediately.
Step 4: Automate with Tasker
I use tasker to do some automatic toggling of settings.
Primary battery savings: location based profiles that use location w/o tears (network location) that intelligently turn wifi on and off in locations where I know I have wifi access (for example in my apartment or near work + during work hours + not holiday + weekday). Under wifi settings -> advanced make sure the wifi sleep policy is set to Never.
I don't do this, but you may also want a profile that sets wifi off or data off or autosync off while at home during sleeping hours.
Secondary battery savings: when bluetooth is turned on, wait for connection for 3 minutes. if no connection is made, turn off. when bluetooth device is disconnected, check for another existing connection or new connection for next 3 minutes. if no connection is made, turn off.
Tertiary battery savings: Profile that alerts when battery is fully charged (with british higher pitched female voice) to prevent overcharging/battery damage (please correct me if this is a myth but ive found it to be true, anecdotally).
Additional Thoughts about Other Profile Apps and Tasker
I have found that apps like setcpu have a definite negative affect on battery life. Most kernel governors manage themselves properly and profiles are not needed unless doing heavy overclocking where you need high temperature failsafes.
Additionally, apps like juice defender seems to waste a lot of battery in their monitoring (versus Tasker) and I think the tendency for that app to toggle the cellular radio on and off (with that 20s delay) actually hurts battery. Again, I own these apps and have used them extensively and decided against them - but it does come down to personal preference. Still, an app like Tasker can do everything juice defender and setcpu do, if necessary albeit less intuitively, but with a smaller memory footprint.
A note on Bump Charging
See here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=871051
condensed: bump charging works but can weaken your battery in the long run. avoid it if you care about your battery longevity or have frequent access to chargers throughout the day.
Thanks to c00ler for the tip to byrong's research.
Open Questions that I have
Radio questions
If in a high 4g/3g penetration area - is it better to be on WCDMA Preferred or WCDMA Only?
If in constant wifi coverage - is it better to be on 2g only or a WCDMA setting?
If in constant wifi coverage - is it better to have cell radio off and make calls over wifi only?
Other questions
Is there any battery life correlation to USB PC charging vs Wall charging? What about stock charger vs other micro usb chargers?
Is battery weakened from extended time spent plugged in?
Is there anything else I am missing? I hope this guide is helpful.
Reserved for followup.
Great posts.
I recommend to freeze those system apps rather than to remove/uninstall them using Titanium Backup.
Considering that you 're using CM 7 nightly, there's a bit much work to do to uninstall the unnecessary system apps after flashing new ROMs.
Just don't know whether freezing a app would do more harm to performance than to just remove/uninstall them or not.
A few answers:
sundar2012 said:
Is battery weakened from extended time spent plugged in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do not know the exact answer but I will tell you that PC USB ports are limited to providing a typical maximum current of 500 mA while the wall charger that came with our device is capable of 1.0 A or 1000 mA. I use an app called Battery Monitor Widget and realistically I've seen numbers like 200-300 and 500-700 mA, respectively, as the charge current is a function of battery %. What I'm saying is USB charging for Wall charging is really more a matter of how battery life is affected by charge rate. I've read on the one had moving ions too quickly in a battery can lead to decreased lifetime while on the other, fast charging avoids crystallization of battery microstructure, which is good. Read more at batteryuniversity.com
sundar2012 said:
Is battery weakened from extended time spent plugged in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read this post.
sundar2012 said:
Does render effect only confer battery savings to AMOLED screens?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it only affects AMOLED screens. Why? Because in an AMOLED, every pixel IS its own light source. Every pixel can turn itself on and off at will. Therefore, darker wallpapers, images, themes, etc will have more pixels at a low-power state and lead to decreased power consumption. On the other hand, LCDs have a backlight that is always on, even when looking at a "pure black" image. To produce the dark image, the LCDs have liquid crystals that polarize the light perpendicularly to each other so that (theoretically) none goes through. However there is always leakage, which is why blacks never look as black as they do on AMOLEDs (lower contrast ratio), which can literally turn off to produce true blacks. Basically for dark images, AMOLEDs are dynamic go into a lower power state while LCDs are static and maintain one relatively high power state at all times.
c00ller said:
A few answers:
I do not know the exact answer but I will tell you that PC USB ports are limited to providing a typical maximum current of 500 mA while the wall charger that came with our device is capable of 1.0 A or 1000 mA. I use an app called Battery Monitor Widget and realistically I've seen numbers like 200-300 and 500-700 mA, respectively, as the charge current is a function of battery %. What I'm saying is USB charging for Wall charging is really more a matter of how battery life is affected by charge rate. I've read on the one had moving ions too quickly in a battery can lead to decreased lifetime while on the other, fast charging avoids crystallization of battery microstructure, which is good. Read more at batteryuniversity.com
Read this post.
Yes, it only affects AMOLED screens. Why? Because in an AMOLED, every pixel IS its own light source. Every pixel can turn itself on and off at will. Therefore, darker wallpapers, images, themes, etc will have more pixels at a low-power state and lead to decreased power consumption. On the other hand, LCDs have a backlight that is always on, even when looking at a "pure black" image. To produce the dark image, the LCDs have liquid crystals that polarize the light perpendicularly to each other so that (theoretically) none goes through. However there is always leakage, which is why blacks never look as black as they do on AMOLEDs (lower contrast ratio), which can literally turn off to produce true blacks. Basically for dark images, AMOLEDs are dynamic go into a lower power state while LCDs are static and maintain one relatively high power state at all times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, will update thread to reflect information about bump charging and AMOLED.
Hi android users,
I got a new micromax yureka and am having an issue of battery drainage from the very first day. I just installed few apps like whatsapp, facebook, mx player etc. Sometime later, I observed that my battery is discharging very soon. It seems like, can discharge from 100% to 0% in just 2-3 hours.
I checked the battery status and found that "Media Server" is listed on the top with 51%. For this, I did this:
Settings-> Apps ->All, select Media Storage & disable it. Clear data & reboot. Now enable it & reboot.
Referred from: http://forum.xda-developers.com/yureka/help/solve-battery-drain-issue-yu-yureka-t3015549
Now somewhat battery is discharging slowing but still results are not good. Also, mobile is charging very slowly. (Say <=20% in an hour). I googled other solutions for this problems, but none worked. Can anyone help me in this?
PS: My device is not rooted.
Yureka has released one update. Just checked if that resove this issue or not.
Also use auto brightness, this enhance battery life
You can also use Greenfy app to boost Yureka's battery life, but yureka should be rooted.
Try This Works !00%
Battery Full How to save battery life on your Android device: 20 Tips
Most smartphones have either a Lithium Ion battery or a Lithium Polymer battery. Both are Lithium Ion though, and as such, do not have a ''memory'' which means you don't have to fully charge or discharge them at the beginning, and partial charging is fine throughout their life. In fact, these types of batteries suffer from low voltage, so it's actually much better to charge them, even if only a little, whenever you have the chance rather than to fully charge and fully drain them.
1. Use a dark colored background
2. Make apps darker too
3. Get rid of auto-brightness
Don't use display auto-brightness. It may sound good, but auto-brightness is usually way brighter than you really need. It's much better to manually set a super low brightness level that is still comfortable, and then just bump it up when necessary. This is one of the main ways to improve your battery life as the screen is one of the biggest battery suckers.
4. Vibrate away!
Switch off vibrate. Unless you really need that added awareness, turn off vibration. It actually takes more power to vibrate your phone than it does to ring it. Turn off haptic feedback too. Sure it feels cool, but it doesn't really add anything to your experience, and it's another battery drainer.
5. Don't use a knockoff
Only use original batteries or respected third party manufacturer batteries. Saving a few bucks on a battery that might damage your beloved smartphone is a poor choice indeed, and may also deliver sub-standard battery performance.
6. Having a timeout is good
Set your display's screen timeout to as short a time as is practical for you. Just think, if your screen timeout is set to a minute, it'll use four times the amount of power to have it on, every time you switch your screen on, than if your timeout is set to 15 seconds. Studies report the average smartphone user turns their smartphone on 150 times a day, so anything you can do to limit that frequency (through self-control or other methods listed below) will help keep your battery running for longer.
7. Get your notifications to leave you alone at night
Set ''sleep times'' or ''blocking mode'' to switch off Wi-Fi and mobile data when you don't need them. If your phone is basically off limits at work, set your device to not ring, vibrate or connect to the internet while you're at work. Likewise, you can set your phone to airplane mode when you're asleep or use sleep or blocking modes to set up limits for what your phone does during certain times of the day, whether that's while you're asleep, at work or in a meeting. Get to know the specific settings your ROM offers. Not only will you have to fiddle with your phone less throughout the day (or night), but you'll be saving on battery life too.
8. Your phone doesn't have to be smart all the time
Turn off smart features like air gestures, smart scrolling and the like, Unless you really use these features every day, they're just using battery power for a feature you don't use.
9. Nor do you need to be connected 24/7
Turn off GPS, Bluetooth, NFC, Wi-Fi and mobile data whenever you don't need them. Turning off location data, or setting it to use Wi-Fi or 3G data rather than GPS works perfectly well. Only turn on Bluetooth and NFC as long as you need them, and there's no need to have both Wi-Fi and mobile data turned on at all times. If you use Wi-Fi a lot though, say at home and at work, then it makes sense to keep set your Wi-Fi to ''Always on during sleep'' as this uses less power than to have your Wi-Fi reconnecting every time you wake your phone.
10. Try out Dynamic Notifications
Use lock screen widgets or notifications if your ROM supports them, or install an app that does it for you like Dynamic Notifications. You'll be able to get basically all your content without having to unlock your phone fully and navigating around. You still need to light your screen up, but you'll have it on for much less time than normal. using a lock screen notification app with a black background can save your battery life significantly.
11. Don't get bogged down by widgets
Ditch widgets you don't really need, especially those that are connected to the internet like weather widgets.
12. Don't let your apps fall behind the times
Keep your apps updated. There's a reason developers constantly update apps, and many of these reasons are memory and battery optimizations. Keeping your apps updated also means you have the best optimizations available. Likewise, delete old apps you no longer use, as these may be running background processes that chew up RAM and battery life.
13. Use your battery saving mode, now!
If your phone has a battery or power saving mode or other battery management option, make use of it.
14. Explore the battery saving features on your phone
All ROMs, whether it's stock Android, OEM UI's like TouchWiz or custom ROMs like CyanogenMod, have various settings in the menu to help conserve or optimize battery consumption here and there. Find these various options for your device and ROM and make them work for you!
15. Choose when you sync your data
Turn off auto-syncing for Google accounts. If you don't need every single Google account updated every fifteen minutes, just go into your Settings and Google account and turn off auto-sync for those apps you don't need constantly updated.
16. Be the master of your app updates
Set apps to update only when you launch them. If you rarely (or very frequently) open an app, it might be better to only have it update when you do so, rather than updating automatically all the time via push notifications or sync intervals. If you only check email once a day, why not let the app update then only, and if you're on a widget or app every couple of hours anyway then why not have it update each time rather than every fifteen minutes when you're not even looking at it
17. Be app update savvy in the Google Play Store
Change your Google Play Store settings to manual update your apps. If you have the Play Store set to auto-update, you might have fifteen apps updating when you least expect it, destroying your battery life (and data plan) without you realizing it. If you use even half of these battery saving tips you'll see a marked improvement in your battery life.
18. Turn off Google hotwords
Stop your phone from always listening. Google's "Ok Google" voice searching is a fantastic and often very functional feature. The problem is that it can play havoc with your battery. Go into "Google settings" from your app drawer and tap the "voice" heading. On the next page, select '"Ok Google' detection". In this menu, the best option for battery life would be to untick all boxed, but if you are a fan of "Ok Google", tick only the "From Google Search app" box to ensure your device is only primed while in the Google app.
19. Get rid of animations
Disable animations. This process may differ slightly from device to device but the crux of it should remain the same. Go to your settings and to the "about phone" page. Tap on the "build number" around 7 times. You will be notified that you have become an "Android developer" (don't worry, enabling the Android developer options doesn't have any adverse affects, it just adds another option in your settings menu). Go back to your settings and tap on the newly inserted "developer options" menu at the bottom. On the next page, scroll down to where it says "window animation scale," "transition animation scale" and "animator duration scale", and switch all of these off. Your device's interface may no=longer look as pretty, but the battery life will be better.
20. Make your location services more battery-friendly too!
Turning off location services isn't just a fantastic way to save on your battery, it saves on your data plan too! Go into your settings and you will find "location" under the "personal" heading - tap on it. At the top of the next page it you will see "mode" in this menu you will be able to set the options for how your smartphone determines your location. Select "battery saving" on the following page.
#Courtesy to Android Pit.
prembaranwal said:
Hi android users,
I got a new micromax yureka and am having an issue of battery drainage from the very first day. I just installed few apps like whatsapp, facebook, mx player etc. Sometime later, I observed that my battery is discharging very soon. It seems like, can discharge from 100% to 0% in just 2-3 hours.
I checked the battery status and found that "Media Server" is listed on the top with 51%. For this, I did this:
Settings-> Apps ->All, select Media Storage & disable it. Clear data & reboot. Now enable it & reboot.
Referred from: http://forum.xda-developers.com/yureka/help/solve-battery-drain-issue-yu-yureka-t3015549
Now somewhat battery is discharging slowing but still results are not good. Also, mobile is charging very slowly. (Say <=20% in an hour). I googled other solutions for this problems, but none worked. Can anyone help me in this?
PS: My device is not rooted.[/QUOTEgallery is not detecting images in internal storage and memord card
Media server is consuming more than 50% battery so I disable the media storage from app and reboot it and enable it and again boot it but after that my gallery is not showing any of the images in memory card and internal storage ....please help me out
I also did a factory reset but it is not getting fixed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have brought yu yureka and in that i have a problem like,while am speaking a call it automatically increases the brightness ,,,,can i get help to get iut from tis
amalmathewkutty said:
Battery Full How to save battery life on your Android device: 20 Tips
Most smartphones have either a Lithium Ion battery or a Lithium Polymer battery. Both are Lithium Ion though, and as such, do not have a ''memory'' which means you don't have to fully charge or discharge them at the beginning, and partial charging is fine throughout their life. In fact, these types of batteries suffer from low voltage, so it's actually much better to charge them, even if only a little, whenever you have the chance rather than to fully charge and fully drain them.
1. Use a dark colored background
2. Make apps darker too
3. Get rid of auto-brightness
Don't use display auto-brightness. It may sound good, but auto-brightness is usually way brighter than you really need. It's much better to manually set a super low brightness level that is still comfortable, and then just bump it up when necessary. This is one of the main ways to improve your battery life as the screen is one of the biggest battery suckers.
4. Vibrate away!
Switch off vibrate. Unless you really need that added awareness, turn off vibration. It actually takes more power to vibrate your phone than it does to ring it. Turn off haptic feedback too. Sure it feels cool, but it doesn't really add anything to your experience, and it's another battery drainer.
5. Don't use a knockoff
Only use original batteries or respected third party manufacturer batteries. Saving a few bucks on a battery that might damage your beloved smartphone is a poor choice indeed, and may also deliver sub-standard battery performance.
6. Having a timeout is good
Set your display's screen timeout to as short a time as is practical for you. Just think, if your screen timeout is set to a minute, it'll use four times the amount of power to have it on, every time you switch your screen on, than if your timeout is set to 15 seconds. Studies report the average smartphone user turns their smartphone on 150 times a day, so anything you can do to limit that frequency (through self-control or other methods listed below) will help keep your battery running for longer.
7. Get your notifications to leave you alone at night
Set ''sleep times'' or ''blocking mode'' to switch off Wi-Fi and mobile data when you don't need them. If your phone is basically off limits at work, set your device to not ring, vibrate or connect to the internet while you're at work. Likewise, you can set your phone to airplane mode when you're asleep or use sleep or blocking modes to set up limits for what your phone does during certain times of the day, whether that's while you're asleep, at work or in a meeting. Get to know the specific settings your ROM offers. Not only will you have to fiddle with your phone less throughout the day (or night), but you'll be saving on battery life too.
8. Your phone doesn't have to be smart all the time
Turn off smart features like air gestures, smart scrolling and the like, Unless you really use these features every day, they're just using battery power for a feature you don't use.
9. Nor do you need to be connected 24/7
Turn off GPS, Bluetooth, NFC, Wi-Fi and mobile data whenever you don't need them. Turning off location data, or setting it to use Wi-Fi or 3G data rather than GPS works perfectly well. Only turn on Bluetooth and NFC as long as you need them, and there's no need to have both Wi-Fi and mobile data turned on at all times. If you use Wi-Fi a lot though, say at home and at work, then it makes sense to keep set your Wi-Fi to ''Always on during sleep'' as this uses less power than to have your Wi-Fi reconnecting every time you wake your phone.
10. Try out Dynamic Notifications
Use lock screen widgets or notifications if your ROM supports them, or install an app that does it for you like Dynamic Notifications. You'll be able to get basically all your content without having to unlock your phone fully and navigating around. You still need to light your screen up, but you'll have it on for much less time than normal. using a lock screen notification app with a black background can save your battery life significantly.
11. Don't get bogged down by widgets
Ditch widgets you don't really need, especially those that are connected to the internet like weather widgets.
12. Don't let your apps fall behind the times
Keep your apps updated. There's a reason developers constantly update apps, and many of these reasons are memory and battery optimizations. Keeping your apps updated also means you have the best optimizations available. Likewise, delete old apps you no longer use, as these may be running background processes that chew up RAM and battery life.
13. Use your battery saving mode, now!
If your phone has a battery or power saving mode or other battery management option, make use of it.
14. Explore the battery saving features on your phone
All ROMs, whether it's stock Android, OEM UI's like TouchWiz or custom ROMs like CyanogenMod, have various settings in the menu to help conserve or optimize battery consumption here and there. Find these various options for your device and ROM and make them work for you!
15. Choose when you sync your data
Turn off auto-syncing for Google accounts. If you don't need every single Google account updated every fifteen minutes, just go into your Settings and Google account and turn off auto-sync for those apps you don't need constantly updated.
16. Be the master of your app updates
Set apps to update only when you launch them. If you rarely (or very frequently) open an app, it might be better to only have it update when you do so, rather than updating automatically all the time via push notifications or sync intervals. If you only check email once a day, why not let the app update then only, and if you're on a widget or app every couple of hours anyway then why not have it update each time rather than every fifteen minutes when you're not even looking at it
17. Be app update savvy in the Google Play Store
Change your Google Play Store settings to manual update your apps. If you have the Play Store set to auto-update, you might have fifteen apps updating when you least expect it, destroying your battery life (and data plan) without you realizing it. If you use even half of these battery saving tips you'll see a marked improvement in your battery life.
18. Turn off Google hotwords
Stop your phone from always listening. Google's "Ok Google" voice searching is a fantastic and often very functional feature. The problem is that it can play havoc with your battery. Go into "Google settings" from your app drawer and tap the "voice" heading. On the next page, select '"Ok Google' detection". In this menu, the best option for battery life would be to untick all boxed, but if you are a fan of "Ok Google", tick only the "From Google Search app" box to ensure your device is only primed while in the Google app.
19. Get rid of animations
Disable animations. This process may differ slightly from device to device but the crux of it should remain the same. Go to your settings and to the "about phone" page. Tap on the "build number" around 7 times. You will be notified that you have become an "Android developer" (don't worry, enabling the Android developer options doesn't have any adverse affects, it just adds another option in your settings menu). Go back to your settings and tap on the newly inserted "developer options" menu at the bottom. On the next page, scroll down to where it says "window animation scale," "transition animation scale" and "animator duration scale", and switch all of these off. Your device's interface may no=longer look as pretty, but the battery life will be better.
20. Make your location services more battery-friendly too!
Turning off location services isn't just a fantastic way to save on your battery, it saves on your data plan too! Go into your settings and you will find "location" under the "personal" heading - tap on it. At the top of the next page it you will see "mode" in this menu you will be able to set the options for how your smartphone determines your location. Select "battery saving" on the following page.
#Courtesy to Android Pit.
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essentailly you are saying that we should use feature phone instead of smart phone and please dont jjust copy paste
phone reboot automaticaly again and again
prembaranwal said:
Hi android users,
I got a new micromax yureka and am having an issue of battery drainage from the very first day. I just installed few apps like whatsapp, facebook, mx player etc. Sometime later, I observed that my battery is discharging very soon. It seems like, can discharge from 100% to 0% in just 2-3 hours.
I checked the battery status and found that "Media Server" is listed on the top with 51%. For this, I did this:
Settings-> Apps ->All, select Media Storage & disable it. Clear data & reboot. Now enable it & reboot.
Referred from: http://forum.xda-developers.com/yureka/help/solve-battery-drain-issue-yu-yureka-t3015549
Now somewhat battery is discharging slowing but still results are not good. Also, mobile is charging very slowly. (Say <=20% in an hour). I googled other solutions for this problems, but none worked. Can anyone help me in this?
PS: My device is not rooted.
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ye try kiya now phone on hi nhi ho raha apne aap restart ho raha h
I too faced same problem...Hard rest ur phone check out in YouTube how to hard reset yureka
my yureka phone is not getting charge just this phone is giving me lots of pain what i will do give me salution about yureka
When i install torrentz , my phone battery life drains like crazy. Help me out ??
prembaranwal said:
Hi android users,
I got a new micromax yureka and am having an issue of battery drainage from the very first day. I just installed few apps like whatsapp, facebook, mx player etc. Sometime later, I observed that my battery is discharging very soon. It seems like, can discharge from 100% to 0% in just 2-3 hours.
I checked the battery status and found that "Media Server" is listed on the top with 51%. For this, I did this:
Settings-> Apps ->All, select Media Storage & disable it. Clear data & reboot. Now enable it & reboot.
Referred from: http://forum.xda-developers.com/yureka/help/solve-battery-drain-issue-yu-yureka-t3015549
Now somewhat battery is discharging slowing but still results are not good. Also, mobile is charging very slowly. (Say <=20% in an hour). I googled other solutions for this problems, but none worked. Can anyone help me in this?
PS: My device is not rooted.
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Click to collapse
Hello!
The perfect way is to root your device! (Note that rooting YU doesn't void Warranty) .
By Rooting, you can install many battery saving apps like Greenify which puts all the apps into Hibernation, which prevents them from running in background when not in use! And also, this is done automatically if your device is rooted!
If you install a custom Recovery like CWM or TWRP, you can flash custom Kernels, which give you the complete access to customize everything(literally) of your hardware and if you optimize the settings correctly, the battery life will be Awesome!!
Hope this Helped! :laugh: If it did, hit the Thanks:good: button! And hesitate not to ask anything regarding this!