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Disclaimer: This procedure voids the warranty and you can potentially damage your device.
This guide is for informative purposes only. Perform this procedure at your own risk.
This procedure was performed on an MDA2 (aka XDA2, Qtek2020, I-Mate2, etc).
Original Problem: The speaker stopped working.
Note: There seems to be a similar problem but it requires a totally different approach to fix it and it's out of the scope of this procedure. The problem on my device was somewhat different since when the speaker didn't work, the microphone was still functional. So the problem resides on the speaker connector, not the headphone jack.
Note2: English is not my first language, so please excuse any language errors you may encounter.
Let me start by saying that I have a big passion for gadgets and technology, so I was not going to let go on the opportunity to learn and inspect the guts of my brand new MDA2. You may ask yourself, why in the world don't you send it for repairs if it's a brand new device? Well, the answer is very simple, I bought this device over the Internet and I simply lost hope of being helped by the guys at the place I bought it from, they simply never answered or returned my calls and emails. I grew desperate and tired of using the headphones ALL THE TIME, even for alarms and reminders! and as I said before, I was driven by passion and thirst of knowledge and curiosity so I decided to fix it myself (even with the risk of damaging the device in the process). Let me add that I have some basic knowledge in electronics, and by no means this is my first device I fix. I have some experience. (I have fixed some damaged digitizers on a HP Jornada 568 PocketPC and Compaq iPAQ 3630 Pocket PC, fixed a volume slider on a SE T68i Phone and a SE P800 Smartphone to name a few).
Let me tell you that the MDA2 has been by far the easiest to fix. It's very well designed in terms of components and component placement, and the quality of the materials (plastics and electronics) is exceptional. But this is not a hardware review, so I'll start the walkthrough right now...
This is my victim... i mean... MDA2...
These are the tools required to complete the operation:
Torx #6 tool
Very small Phillips screwdriver (+)
Very small flat screwdriver (-)
Credit Card or similar card
A steady hand
Then I removed the SD Card and Stylus.
Proceed to remove the screws, there are two TORX#6 and four small Phillips (+). Be sure to put them on a safe place, they are very small screws and you don't want to loose them.
There are a couple of hidden Torx#6 screws under that black antenna cover, so we need to remove it. The plastic used in this part is not as dense as the rest of the casing (yes, the casing it's made of plastic!), so we need to be very careful not to break it, so apply very little force.
Start by using the flat screwdriver and insert it in the Stylus silo and use it as a lever (as shown), you will hear a "click" when the lock snaps. You will need flexible hands and dexterity since at this point you will also need to insert the flat screwdriver on the side square hole to release this side of the cover. (see next picture).
Here you can see the two squared-shaped holes where you need to insert the flat screwdriver to release the locks. Be very careful since there are some electronic components just below the square holes and do not apply excessive force to release the locks. Remember, the plastic is very thin on this part.
Now the other side, here you need to also use the flat screwdriver as a lever to release the lock on this side. Be very careful, since you will apply some force on the volume slider.
Now with the bottom part of the black cover released, you will notice there are some more locks to release on the top (just on the edge of the SD slot. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE COVER YET!
One more time we need the flat screwdriver as a lever. Insert the flat screwdriver (as shown) but not too deep. Apply very small force in the direction of the arrow and the edge will snap off releasing the cover.
The black cover is now free.
These are the two hidden Torx#6 screws. Proceed to remove them to release the antenna.
The antenna has been removed.
So far so good, now the toughest part of the whole procedure, opening the MDA2 case. You need to be very patient, do not rush since the finish on the case is very easy to scratch and dent. Proceed with the small flat screwdriver and you need to start from the bottom of the MDA2, In my case as soon as I removed all the screws I noticed a small gap on the bottom so I started from that point, but if you don't see the gap, you can start from the headphone jack hole. Please be gentle and don't try to rush.
At this point you can use a credit card to help release the locks that are located all around the case, this way you won't scratch or dent the case. Start counter-clockwise, that is to the left of the headphone jack towards the Stylus silo. Once you manage to release all the locks on that side of the case, just lift it very slowly and the opposite side will snap off very easily. However, be very careful on that side (where the buttons and volume slider is) since in that particular place the plastic is more fragile because of the holes needed for those controls.
Once the MDA2 has been opened in half you can see the three small black Phillips screws (+) (see picture). Proceed to remove them. Please avoid any contact with the electronic components, since at this point any static charge can damage your precious gadget. And also make sure you don't drop the screws or touch the components with the screwdriver, since the MDA2 it's still very alive. See that coin-shaped thing on the opposite side of the screws? That's a LiPo Battery, and it's keeping your data from being erased. By the way, don't try to beat the 20 minute retention time of the battery, you have made a backup right? So go slowly...
Ok. So far so good... This is the speaker, well, actually that's the speaker encased in a small black boxy thing with two gold plated connectors. (see next Pic for a close up).
As you can see, the two gold plated connectors on the speaker container match the two spring connectors on the mother board.
Ok, here we need to be very, very careful. I pulled both springs as shown on the picture above to give them a little more pressure when assembled again and I also cleaned the gold plated connectors on the speaker container. Make sure you apply only the necessary force to pull the springs since they could be disoldered if too much force is applied. Use common sense.
We're almost done!
Now proceed to put everything back together. Remember to put back all the screws in their correct positions and do not apply excessive force or you will damage the thread and make things worse that they where in the first place. Proceed to close the casing by doing the opposite. Start by placing the case on the buttons and volume slider side first then the opposite side.
You may notice that the camera lens will not allow the case to go all the way, but if you do it slowly it will budge.
Proceed with the rest of the assembly in reverse order.
That's it... You can proceed to test the speaker.
My MDA2 has been working flawlessly ever since!!! :wink:
I hope this procedure was helpful.
Best regards,
Rayan
All red crosses instead of pictures...
And then the pictures came
Nice walkthrough you've made !
thanks for the very good explanation!
Illustrated by pictures is always great!
Thanks
Thanks, this is my way of saying "Thank you" to this marvelous community! 8)
P.S.- If you don't see the images, please try again later, since those images are hosted on my webserver and sometimes I need to reboot it... sorry...
Best regards,
Rayan
Just a little bump since I've noticed that many people want to open their beloved devices and I thought my walkthrough might help...
MODS: Any chance to make it a "Post it?" :wink:
Best regards,
Rayan
Excellent post, cheers, and if English is your second langauge then I'd never have known it! There are plenty of people for whom it is their first langauge who can't write as well as you!
Wow. Your documentation is better than what comes with the XDA itself! And your English is better than most people in the US. Great service to the XDA community.
Excellent work, man!
Thanks guys!
I'm glad you liked it!
If anyone has questions about the procedure, please don't hessitate to ask!
Best regards,
Rayan
Great! Somethings in life are free, for opening your XDA II there's Mastercard!!!
hahahahaha
pictures are gone? or is it just me?
did anyone kept a copy?
Sooooo sorry guys... I switched to a new hosting company and recreated my website but forgot to restore those images... I will take them back online ASAP!
waiting for the pics to comeonline again!
please do it asap!
thanks
any luck putting the pictures back online ?
Hello folks!
Sorry for the loooong delay, but as you can see, the pics are back!!!
If you have any questions about the procedure, don't hesitate to ask.
Best regards,
Rayan
Can someone help me?
I had the same problem myself, except that i've done all the stuff you said and i still have the problem... I can hear the phone ringing, but no sound comes from the device (Alarms, appontments, Media Player, etc). When i answer the calls i can't hear any sound from the people who is calling me... Can someone help me?
:shock:
Gents,
Slightly off topic, so please bear with me.
My M1000 has had a problem ever since I got it. The camera seems out of focus as soon as I try to make pictures past say 1,5 meters. Would the serrated ring around the camera lens perhaps be used to focus the device?
Thanks!
Stefan out
I tried to move the serrated lens just to play with it and see if I could get better focus and remember that it was really hard as if it was glued or something.
However, I didn't apply much force but seems like it's meant to be some sort of focus adjustmet, specially because it looks very close to the lens in my webcam when disasembled.
Should you give it a try, let us know...
is there a way to power an ipaq 3630 without the power adapter but with a different battery? like a cel battery? how is the power conector to the ipaq and battery?
Hi,
As my wizard dropped in the water it got completely soaked.
I disassembled it to let it dry, see photos attached, put it together again and presto, almost everything works!!!
Just four keys of the keyboard do not work anymore, and as it all happened a week ago now I do not think this will be fixed.
Does anyone know if they do not work because of the water or because of the impact (the Wizard smashed on the street first)?
Has anybody ever fixed a faulty keypad?
Can anybody tell me where I can get a replacement keypad?
Let me know if you need instructions how to disassemble your wizard.
many thanks!
manhattan.
I have no answer to your question, but it is nice to see the inside of the wizard one time.
A couple of other people were asking about disassembly in other posts - so the instructions would probably be handy.
Hi,
I would love some complete instructions on dissasembly as I am about to take mine apart for painting and a hardware mod.
As far as the keyboard goes, you would be surpised how long they retain water, i doubt its a hardware problem, keyboard are pretty much solid state with only a tiny membrane for contacts. However it is this membrane that is most likely to be your problem, the contacts are very close together and covered in a film that can be verry attractive to water as it has rubber over it. So in essence I am saying I bet it is still wet in there, just a few droplets of condensation would do it.
Options, take it a apart and check and leave in a very warm dry place for a day, or II place whole wizard on a warm heater (not hot) for a while and see if that gets it.
T
Hi,
I also want to know the details of disassembly the wizard.
I think you had better post the instructions o disassembly here as I'm sure there are quite a few people who wuld like to know, me included.
Just a thought by looking at the picture (brave btw!)
Would it be possible to replace the 2,5mm headphone jack by an 3,5mm one and drill out a new hole for the larger connector?
Would be neat if you weren't so dependable on those stupid converters. Not a pretty sight anyway.
Thanks for sharing the photos.
I took mine apart some time ago to fix the stylist problem and when I put it back together some of the keys wouldnt work. The back light wouldnt work either. I found the problem was the little snap that secures the flat cable form the keyboard to the main board. There is a really small clasp that clicks down on the flat cable after you insert it into the connector. Once I took it back apart and snapped it, everything was normal again.
I plan on taking mine apart to change the keyboard form the English/arabic to just English, (anyone know where I can buy the keyboard/keys?) so any instructions you have will be appreciated.
Thanks
The stylii in the picture look like BA stylii.
Do I get 10 points?
will post instructions
OK guys I will put together the instructions and upload them here. I just have absolutely no time now so I hope you can wait a day or two....
Thanks for the comments. I am aware of the little lock that secures the mini flatcable that connects the keypad to the motherboard. I assume that is not the problem as I snapped it securely back in place.
I will try the heater suggestion, I suppose you mean to put the wizard in an oven set at let's say 50 degrees celsius?
The styluses in the photo are from my Qtek 2020. As the Wizard smashed I lost its stylus.... :-(
Sorry the photos do not show the display half of the wizard disassembled... I realised too late that others would benefit from pictures...
Cheers
Manhattan
I dont think I would put it in an oven. I would think that just inside a vehicle sitting in direct sunlight for a few hours would probably do, unless you are in a really cold climate. You may also try some electrical contact cleaner then get some additional heat to it after it evaportates. There is probably something that has trapped some moisture somewhere. Just for info, I dropped my Jamin the other night about 4 feet directly onto a tile floor. It bounced a couple times, ejected the SD card, and reset. But it is working fine. However, I had a bud that dropped his 2 day old Sony Ericsson P900 into water and dried it off immediatly and let it air dry. It worked, but he had problems ever since. It would drop calls and restart all the time. So there may not be a complete fix for it.
Good luck
Hey guys, someone posted the HTC Service manual for the Wizard!
In this manual you see pictures how to disassemble the phone!
It's realy the best manual to use for opening your mobile friend....
Good Luck
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=43836
I've successfully fixed my girlfriends crappy creative keyboard once after water damage using a pencil. Depending how the keyboard is made, most of the time there will be really thin conductive tracks literally printed on the substrate. The water isn't particularly nice to these tracks and I found that in some parts there was noticale oxidation/corrosion. By very lightly scratching of the affeted paint and then going over it with a graphite pencil this did the trick.
Just an idea, personally I probably wouldn't do it to my vario but then again I'm still in the honeymoon phase with it.
Good luck
I fix phones for a living for many stores and have many phones that have water damage
what you dont do is charge it.. it will burn out the board
what you do is let it dry out, use the service manual and let it dry out in parts
then get white spirit and a toothbrush... dip it in and clean the contacts for yourk eys
once done, again let it try and then see how it goes. thats what i do, although we have a machine that sends out sonic pulses but the above method works too especially when im lazy
HTC Wizard Disassembly
hi guys. a lot of confusion over this simple matter. I don't know where the PDF file everyone's talking about is, most links didnt work, but here's some pics. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! hahahahaha!
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
Hi,
I have a O2 xda model
IPL 1.01
SPL 2.21
GSM 01.12.10
OS 1.5.4.2
there is problem in formating the phone.
Even after a hard reset the Os wont boot,
it says that "formating is failed".
there is a prolem in the flash memory of the phone.
please help me with the assembly and disassembly process so that i can fix it.
Any one?
Hi all,
My wife spilled a glass of beer on my PDA, and now the top front buttons don't react like before. Sometimes you don't hear the 'click' and you can feel like they got stuck.
The keyboard looks fine, so the problem is only the with the top buttons at the front of the PDA.
Have anybody tried to take apart this PDA? Would be easy to open it and clean everything before putting everything back?
Thanks a lot
I completely soaked my Ozone about a week after I got it... knocked it in the sink. I like to think that I was among the first to void my warranty, Lo..l?
The phone is really well constructed for what you need to do. All of the critical electronics are very well shielded on the board, nothing difficult about separating the board from the case.
Six 'star drive' screws on the case (that's where the warranty sticker is), one tiny phillips on the board - board pulls up off of pins, away from the usb connector and Bob's your uncle. The keypad is not fastened to the case, pull it right out.
Watch the ribbon cable for the lcd - I would not recommend disconnecting it. there should be enough play to allow you to work. Make sure you're working in a really clean environment, and check the inside of the plastic lcd cover obsessively right before reassembly. If you're anything like me that one little catpet fiber or cat hair or whatever the hell will drive you to take the phone apart again 4 days later...
Sorry about the ramble... it's late. Short answer is: Nothing to it.
Good luck!
Thanks a lot for your post. It was really helpful.
I will probably try it this weekend.
I'll post here the results
Cheers
So if I wanted to buy a different color keypad (dont like the green) it shouldnt be hard to take apart??...I change screens in Env/Voyagers a bit so have a little knowledge...
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
IBNobody said:
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
scriz said:
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
IBNobody said:
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lmao @ ====> or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?[/QUOTE]
hilarious!
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
los1223 said:
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Searched disassembly, not teardown. Thanks.
The link actually helped.
The Epic has 2 microphones?
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Kcarpenter said:
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found a teardown picture that illustrates the difficulty...
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/eas/GetApplicationAttachment.html?id=1311529
The problem was the two tabs. I didn't realize how long they were.
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
arashed31 said:
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once I saw how the back cover was snapped on (wide indents that snap to the silver), I was able to remove it. I used a credit card, sliding it down from the volume button, parallel to the phone. Every so often, I'd use the card as a wedge to pry the top off. Eventually, it snapped open.
Unfortunately, I am unable to find a problem. The main microphone works. It just doesn't work in speakerphone mode.
Oh well... I'm on my 4th Epic. I'm holding off on returning them to Amazon. I'll have 3 of 'em sitting around in case I need to make a FrankenEpic.
Do you see any way to tighten the screen slider?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Hey, if/while you're still in there... do you see a MLF-type chip (these are the ones that look like a plastic box with no visible pins because the metal pads are entirely on the underside) that's approximately 3mm x 4mm that has something like "FSA 9480" (or just "9480", or even "Fairchild") written on it? Probably near the USB port? I've read about its existence inside the Epic (and all Galaxy S models), and it seems to be getting enumerated by the kernel during bootup, but I didn't see any actual chip bearing the name in any teardown pics I've looked at. I'm starting to suspect that the "9480" *might* just be IP that Samsung licensed from Fairchild and incorporated into one of their own ASICs (with "9480" being the "IP name" of the chip Fairchild sells as the 9280), but it's really hard to tell.
For anyone who didn't see my other post, or the thread in the I9000 board, the FSA9480 is a USB switch that enables the USB port's two data pins to be repurposed for a) serial UART Txd and Rxd, b) Stereo audio left and right out, c) mono headset with audio out and mic in, and d) JTAG via a special interface called "JIG" that's kind of like Atmel's Debugwire and serializes the various pins of a JTAG interface. It's not actually using USB... it electronically disconnects the two pins from the USB interface, and connects them to the audio/uart/JIG pins elsewhere inside the phone.
Also, if you can see anything that resembles a manufacturer or part number for the USB port, that would be awesome. I know that someone, somewhere HAS to make them, but trying to find nonstandard, offbeat connectors in the millions of items sold by companies like Digikey, Arrow, Avnet, Mouser, etc. is like looking for a needle in a haystack unless you already know the exact part number you're looking for.
didnt really llook too hard, but i didnt see any
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Yes its rather easy you take off the back cover use something like a guitar pick to pop the back snaps apart then from there undo the connections to the main board remove it a few more screws under the sticker and one under the main board i think there is a ribbon cable you have to be genital with they rip really easy also make sure its put back the way it needs to be.. when replacing the screen there are tear down guides all over the new that show it in detail...
Edit: Found a Video for you... http://satmedia.co.uk/sprint-samsung-epic-4g-galaxy-s-sph-d700-take-apart-tear-down-video-mpg/
Chabsin said:
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pry bar and hammer should do it!
Sent from my '' Bag Phone ''
I was cleaning the dust out from behind my screen and I disconnected the cable that is glued to the top of the touchscreen. I put it back in place (as best as I could) and let the glue set, but my touch still doesn't work.
Is this something I can fix with better alignment (and maybe a little bit of conductive glue) or do I need a new digitizer?
Has anyone else done this?
where was the cable actually plugged into? I am assuming you just have to put that in and shut the rubber clip (I apologize to the community for my lack of technical terms) but can be a bit difficult depending on what tools you have
I had this happen too. I had to buy a whole new digitizer.
Damn. Thanks I guess :/ I'll find a creative use for this one. I wonder what my atrix will look like with all the paint removed <_<
It winds up plugged into the same ribbon as the speaker and front camera I think, but its on the glass end that my promblem lies. The metal fingers on the wire are glued to the ITO fingers on the glass, and I don't know how to get a proper connection back
try here and see if you can get any clues.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Atrix-4G-Teardown/4964/1
i don't know if it helps, but it might lead to something.
I used that guide when I first took her apart, and tellingly, they don't disconnect the screen from the frame.