I have been having a problem replacing my car charger.
i purchased off ebay a car charger and wall charger combo...I plugged them in and my battery percentage went down almost quickly like it was being drained.
Now, my home charger, which is the original charger, charges my phone up perfectly. I am also able to charge my phone up using a usb cable on my home computer and also on my work computer.
I purchased another car charge. This one is a usb cable that plugs into a car charger. This one also "drains" my power down. What am I doing wrong?
I do not have the chargers with me or I would include some technical information. I will do that in the morning.
I am at a lose for ideals. I do work in the electronic world so I have a little understanding about electronics.
Thank you.
Maybe it's not the car chargers but something wrong with wiring in your car?
draven187 said:
Maybe it's not the car chargers but something wrong with wiring in your car?
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This weekend I had the opportunity to test two car charges that are not charging in my car in another vehicle....the same result....phone lost power on both chargers.
I think that I will spend the money and get a HTC car adapter.
You can try some of the chargers at amazon. They are cheap and work well with all of my HTC devices. Some of the chargers for ebay and amzon are cheap quality from china, so if you are worried you might get burened again you can search oem chargers instead of generic ones. And make sure the power rating isnt really low like 300mah.
had the same problem as u..
the charger i used to have declared it had 5v 1A output but it couldn't charge my tytn2 in the car, in fact it drained the battery even more...
than i got a micro usb car charger with 1A output from ebay (store: gadg-e-tech ) and so far so good, my tytn keeps charging..
although i have this problem now http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=779008 but i think it's a software problem...
charger problem
I had the same problem 1 charger would charge the other drain. I had several car chargers and motorola ones too and none worked not even an htc origional. I got the usb cable that came with the phone and a generic car charge and pluged in the usb an all worked fine.
As probably several other users, I have set my hd2 to NOT charge when connected to pc, as I often plug the cable to transfer pictures, cabs and the likes. This is useful when I actually plug it to the PC, and it regularly charges with stock/compatible cable if connected to mains charger.
Problems could arise when you connect the microusb cable to the standard carlighter plug with an adapter having a female USB connector in it. It gets recognized as a "pc" and thus the device won't charge unless you re-enable charging when connected to PC.
In case you experience this, as per link found in second post of this thread, you can short the two middle contacts of the USB connector (the data pins) so the phone recognizes the charger as a proper one instead of mistaking it for a PC.
http://www.pocketpc.ch/htc-hd2-sons...en-hoehere-ladestroeme-akku-laed-im-auto.html
desribes modification of car charger, sorry but it´s german. HD2 detects via USB data pins, if it´s connected to PC or charger. If USB data pins are connected like described in above, it will be charged by the car adapter as well. To achive this you´ve to modify your adapter as described.
Regards
Georg
Thank you! Google translate is helping me... and believe me or not, it seems that what I was guessing is actually true: you need to short the data pins of the usb cable... could you confirm please kleiner_onkel? I am not quite so sure of what I am reading with google, as that kind of english is quite far-fetched
n that case I could also avoid messing with the insides of the usb-lighter adapter, and just short the cables inside an external USB hub
EDIT: I just tested it, syhorted the middle data pins of the usb-a plug inside a cheapo usb1 hub, it works and charges the phone when "charge from pc" is disabled.
Will meddle to clean the job and then will update first post
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
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+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.
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I do see a use, if you're on a laptop running on batteries, you don't necessarily want to empty your laptop batteries faster by recharging the phone if you don't need to. But that's the only one.
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2).
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More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Aterlatus said:
In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger.
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Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
I believe there's actually still an extra step from this mod to the phone knowing it is on the original charger. I have both a Chinese USB charger and a car charger, rated at 650mA and 800mA respectively. On both (with soldered pins), the HD2 will charge at 600mA, not 800-900 like with the original charger. But 600 is of course already better than 450.
kilrah said:
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
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From: ht tp://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
Dedicated charger mode:
A simple USB charger should short the 2 data lines together. The device will then not attempt to transmit or receive data, but can draw up to 1.8A, if the supply can provide it.
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It's in the spec, and a car battery won't have any problem supplying the current. A cheap (read: chinese off ebay) charger might well employ just a simple resistor. Sure, any decent charger will use a voltage regulator or a buck converter to maintain the correct voltage. That doesn't mean that ALL will, hence the warning to take care.
"If the supply can provide it" is the key. The USB device will see if the supply can't give that much and its voltage starts to drop.
And anyway the HD2 would never draw 1.8A or it would damage its battery.
I noticed much the same thing by accident as reported in this thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=638007
Beware that if your HD2 is set up to detect it, it will turn on Navipanel when plugging in this type of cable
pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
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samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
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I may be the slow minded here. BUT
1) Everyone having had even third-person experience with laptops knows that using one with a battery inserted and "most of the time" attached to the external power unit, makes the battery die pretty soon, and all laptop batteries are Li-Ion based since quite a while; sure, part of that damage comes from the heat generated on the battery both from the charging and the laptop being turned on, but all the rest is caused by the "unnecessary" repeated charges (confront the "battery university" website for this)
2) I often plug/unplug the cable from the pc to move several small files, I just don't feel comfortable doing it if everytime the battery gets a "charging hit", for the aforementioned reasons
3) I want to be able to charge the device when I choose to and not just everytime I plug it somewhere
4) enabling the car charger as "proper charger" lets the device take up more current and charging faster
5) I've always behaved, with all my Li-Ion powered devices, in a way that I would charge the battery when it got to ~20-30% and not before, reducing the number of times I actually charged it; the definition of "recharge cycle" is not the easiest one here, and "battery university" has an interesting one; but since my behaviour until now has given its good results, I'll just keep doing that
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
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As kilrah stated, 1.85A may be the max specification, yet the HD2 is NOT going to get that much from a recognized charger. The german thread pointed from the second post of the thread is also specific about it, the intook currents are higher, but not that higher... plus I've peeked inside the car lighter charger, and it's got no single resistor Also, the max 2A is useful when you plug several other things to it for charging purposes other than the HD2, and that's why I connect the HD2 to a USB1 hub connected to the carlighter charger
For a briefly useful reference, my iPaq 214 only took max 200mA from the miniusb plug no matter the charger capacity not the charger "nature", so devices do have a regulator, and it would be reasonable to think that a multihundred euros phone has one, and pretty efficient at it
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
atagent said:
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
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solder together the central pins on the charger output port, it's the exact same principle
Even thought hacking a cable is "safer", as you're playing with a ~2USB asset instead of a ~5USD one, and you have to connect a usb cable to the car charger anyway in order to charge the phone
Long story, but I bought a used Fascinate without the stock charger.
Could someone install, or hopefully already have, the "Battery monitor Widget". Then plug their Fascinate into the stock AC charger or stock car charger (NOT the USB on a PC), and let me know what the usage (ma) reading is on the widget.
More of the story. Basically, I know that at least on older HTC devices they would pull more charge/operating power from a non-USB connection. Actual USB is limited to 500ma load, so they had a system that kept the current low on USB and bumped it up for non-USB. All of the non-stock cables that I have show a very low charge rate on the Fascinate. It in fact runs the battery dead while on charge and I use the phone with GPS software.
i can tell you the factory charger is putting out 5v at .7a(700ma).
Mylt1 said:
i can tell you the factory charger is putting out 5v at .7a(700ma).
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Thanks, it is good to know that they stick with 5V. But it just means that it can put out up to 700ma. I suspect it is using about half of that.
If you can cut open the wires and insert and ammeter in series, that is what I need to know.
edit: nvm ...
Found it. I have been searching for this for a couple of weeks and just now stumbled on the right search keywords.
For anyone that wants to know.
The Fascinate appears to pull about 350ma from the 5 volt supply normally. But, if you short out the USB D+ and D- lines in the charge connector, the charge current goes up to about 600ma.
That will help me not have a dead battery when using the GPS.
Oh, as an added bonus, you don't get the USB / Debug notification.
Hey guys
First, I hope I'm asking at the right forum. I searched at xda and it seems to be closest that fits. If there is a need to transfer it to different forum please do or let me know there to.
Than, I have a big problem and I do hope you can help me with- my Cube-i7-Book don't charge not by the Wall charger nor by the Usb-c charger.
I read a lot about the coube-I7-book and just before they started talking about the new one I bought it (+original keyboard). It arrived and I start using it about 3 moons ago.
1. Last moons I bought a Aukey fast USB desk charger (charge other devises ) and try to charge my cube-I7-book with the USB-c cable I got with my LG smartphone. It looks like the charger is connected but it doesn't charge (I try again and again).
2. Last night my cube-I7-book buttery was very low. I connected it to the wall charger as I always do and went to sleep. In the morning I took a look at the cubeI7-book. I was surprise to see it was still charging. I let it to continue charging. At the evening I checked again. It got 61% and stop charging. I re connect it to the charger and to a different wall socket - there was no reaction. I restart the cubeI7 book -nothing.
3. Could the problem is in the wall charger? If so what different charger l have to look for in order to check?
4. If it's not the charger, what can it be and what can I do to make it work? It is a new device and I really want it to work.
5. What about the USB-c charging? Why isn't it working? Can I do something about it?
Thank you for your help,
Did you manage to fix your problem. I have the same issue. Did you try to use a macbook usb-c charger, instead of a phone usb-c charger?
Only just seeing this, sounds odd. USB charging works well for me (although sometimes I need to unplug and replug the cable if charging doesn't start right away). You need to make sure that your USB c charger provides "power delivery " and in particular, I think, 12v charging, maybe 9v is also OK, but the standard 5v that some USB chargers provide is definitely not enough.
You may have a look at the forum on techtablets.com, there's a subforum for the i7 book with wire a few people active.