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Hi,
I currently repair XDA Exec's for a client of mine who use them for their delivery drivers. They are constantly breaking the screens which are easy to fix, but more often than not they smash off the usb connector and leave it rattling around inside. This is not usually a big problem to fix unless the pads that the 5 pins are soldered to have been ripped off the board. I have found that even if I successfully replace the connector with a new one and solder the two outside pins (which are the gnd and 5v pins) the battery will not charge. The puzzling thing is, if I remove the battery, the red led comes on, presumably indicating power to the device. As soon as I connect the battery the led goes out and the unit boots up only to reveal that it is not charging. So I'm presuming two things:
1. There is some other electronic component damage in the unit caused when the connector broke (due to it being on the end of the charger cable at the time, if this is the case I will scrap the unit)
2. There is some feedback from the battery that the charger needs to continue with it's output and because I didn't reconnect the data pins it won't charge.
Does anyone know how the charging circuit works and what pin / connections are required for charging. I guess the same principle will apply to many PDA's & mobile phones.
Thanks
Rick
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=HTC Universal Service Manual
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
mini usb is a standart anyway
.Lemon
Hi,
Thanks for your reply, call me a lemon but what utility do I need to unpack a .lemon file ?
Rick
Lemon Head
Forget that last post ok...
Just got a new "clever" multivoltage car charger, plugged in the Shift and now with either AC or DC external power ...
1. External power green LED not working.
2. No charging icon on the WM side, and no indication of charging on the PC side.
3. Shift won't power up with the battery removed and only external power.
However also ...
4. Battery doesn't discharge with external power on.
5. Once started the battery can be removed and the unit remains powered via external power.
So the Shift won't charge the battery, but the external power is there and preferentially powering the unit. Any chance there is a simple fix?
Sheepster said:
Just got a new "clever" multivoltage car charger, plugged in the Shift and now with either AC or DC external power ...
1. External power green LED not working.
2. No charging icon on the WM side, and no indication of charging on the PC side.
3. Shift won't power up with the battery removed and only external power.
However also ...
4. Battery doesn't discharge with external power on.
5. Once started the battery can be removed and the unit remains powered via external power.
So the Shift won't charge the battery, but the external power is there and preferentially powering the unit. Any chance there is a simple fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like you may have spoilt the Power Charging IC in the motherboard. Have a look at the following thread particularly Post No. 6 by reb http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=410161
The guy appeared to know what he was talking about but unfortunately he posted once and vanished..... Tried contacting him when I fried mine (I suspect mine was the more serious Power Distribution IC) without success. Mine could not power up at all hence ended up getting a replacement motherboad....
Looks simple enough to get the motherboard out ... but which IC should I get checked?
Is there a board diagram somewhere?
Hello,
I need help with my new tablet.
Model is Allfine Fine10 Yoy.
Specs:
Rockchip RK3066, 1.6GHz, Cortex A9 dual core; GPU: Mali 400 MP4
Android 4.1
1GB (DDR3)
16GB Nand Flash
10.1 Inch / IPS
Battery: 7800mAh
It is not so old, about 5 months. Few days ago I have left it to charge overnight (it usually takes 4-5 hours to charge so I always charge it overnight) and in the morning it could not turn on. It is dead, no signs of life. I checked maybe it did not charge, so I changed power socket and tried again.
I can not charge it via USB so I can't test that.
There is not sign of life when connected to PC, adb list's no devices.
There is no sign of life after holding power/lock button for a long time and there is not signs after holding restart button.
It came factory rooted, I've never updated/flashed or anything.
I have not noticed any troubles so far, no lags, no freezing, no overheating.
Are you familiar with debug method for this kind of tablet?
What should I do, what test to make?
Can you help me debug this, please.
Thank you.
cheap china tablets are easy to open up. just pry the back cover off carefully and put a volt meter on the battery. its probably dead.
check your power supply first, it might have croaked too.
Would it be possible to run tablet with removed battery, straight off adapter to check is it working?
mrnjau said:
Would it be possible to run tablet with removed battery, straight off adapter to check is it working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly, at least some part of startup.
Most device processors will start up if they notice power coming from somewhere.
At some point try will try to access the state and source of power.
If they notices that the battery is really dead (that is, the power is only from USB) they will shut down and go into charge-only mode.
It may be more likely that your battery is charged and the processor got wedged somehow.
Disconnect from USB, open the back, disconnect the battery and reconnect it.
Renate NST said:
Possibly, at least some part of startup.
Most device processors will start up if they notice power coming from somewhere.
At some point try will try to access the state and source of power.
If they notices that the battery is really dead (that is, the power is only from USB) they will shut down and go into charge-only mode.
It may be more likely that your battery is charged and the processor got wedged somehow.
Disconnect from USB, open the back, disconnect the battery and reconnect it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply,
I've precedeed as you sugested.
Solder is pretty hard on battery connection, so I unsoldered just one (negative wire, red one) and pluged it to charger and try to start it. I undsolderd just one because I don't want heat to ruin something and I guessed it should be enough to try this.
It still shows no signs of life.
However I've noticed something, when re-soldering red wire I have noticed that there is a spark when wire is near the solder point. So, there is some power in battery.
Any idea how to proceed? I still don't have multimeter to test battery voltage so that will have to wait.
Thanks once again.
Oh, sorry, I thought that the battery was on a connector.
That makes life easier than soldering.
The red wire(s) are always the positive.
The black wire(s) are always the negative (ground).
Any other color wires on a battery are thermistor, id sense or communication.
Yes, finding/borrowing a voltmeter is the next step.
Renate NST said:
Oh, sorry, I thought that the battery was on a connector.
That makes life easier than soldering.
The red wire(s) are always the positive.
The black wire(s) are always the negative (ground).
Any other color wires on a battery are thermistor, id sense or communication.
Yes, finding/borrowing a voltmeter is the next step.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Renate, I hope you still follow this topic.
I'm sorry for 2 months without updates, I've waited for some time for parts from China.
So, what have I done so far...
1) Get multimeter.
2) Test battery.
Battery is designated as 3.7V, however output is 4.15 - 4.16 V.
I've presumed this is fine.
3) Test the charger.
Charger is designated on 5V and 3A. I've tested voltage, it is fine. However ampers dance between 0.5A and 3.5A. I've presumed that charger is faulty, so I've ordered new one. Generic 5V, 3A charger.
4) Put it back together, re-solder the battery and connect charger. Test again.
Voltage on battery connectory is same as before - 4.15V.
After 20min there is no change in battery temperature (source: my fingers), however power jack where new charger is connected is getting warm, but not too warm.
Tried to power it on, no signs of life. Tried holding restart button for forewer, no sign of life.
I'm out of ideas.
3 Amps is a heck of a charger.
Where did that come from? Is it stock?
You have a little round coaxial connector for the charging input on the tablet?
There's no reason that it should be drawing 3 amps or anything getting warm.
The battery is fully charged.
There could be a high resistance in the battery protection module so that it looks charged but can't actually supply any current when called upon.
There's a USB connector on this too?
And nothing appears when you connect a USB cable to it?
I wouldn't expect ADB, but maybe a bootloader.
Run devmgmt.msc when plugging it in and see if anything at all shows up.
Renate NST said:
3 Amps is a heck of a charger.
Where did that come from? Is it stock?
You have a little round coaxial connector for the charging input on the tablet?
There's no reason that it should be drawing 3 amps or anything getting warm.
The battery is fully charged.
There could be a high resistance in the battery protection module so that it looks charged but can't actually supply any current when called upon.
There's a USB connector on this too?
And nothing appears when you connect a USB cable to it?
I wouldn't expect ADB, but maybe a bootloader.
Run devmgmt.msc when plugging it in and see if anything at all shows up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stock charger is 3A, so I bought with indetical specs. My research showed that a lot of chinese tabs use 3A chargers (Ainol Hero, etc..)
Yes, charger connector is 2.5mm "needle".
Some 30min after I posted this area around connector and speaker on motherboard got very very hot, I almost injured myself by touching it. So I've disconnected it.
No, nothing on USB. I've mentioned it in my first post, there are no signs of life on adb. Or "dmesg", which should list something even if device was bricked.
Um, are you sure that the polarity of the supply is correct?
For coaxial plugs the center is usually positive.
If it got that hot you probably have blown something.
Renate NST said:
Um, are you sure that the polarity of the supply is correct?
For coaxial plugs the center is usually positive.
If it got that hot you probably have blown something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/2000mah-Adapt...6-6172141?ie=UTF8&refRID=1AED4Q5XRX7QS8JJ91Y9
This is that kind of power connector, 2.5mm. Are we talking about the same thing? Is is possible for this kind of connectors to have non-standard polarity.
Maybe nothing is blown, I would smell that. Maybe there just hi resistance somewhere along the line.
Well, if it's the same charger and it used to charge then the polarity must be ok.
Still, something is not happy.
You should have been able to get it working with just the battery.
The DC input should not be getting hot.
I can only say so much from this distance.
Renate NST said:
Well, if it's the same charger and it used to charge then the polarity must be ok.
Still, something is not happy.
You should have been able to get it working with just the battery.
The DC input should not be getting hot.
I can only say so much from this distance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't find any info on ampers and battery. I can't measure any amps coming out of battery, that's strange. I don't know much about this but should not battery put up some ampers?
Yeah, I understand that DC port should not get hot. Only 2 options.
1) Charger (the new one) is putting up too much electricity, to many amps that is.
2) There is something faulty on DC port or around it and causes too much resistance and thus heat.
Hello friends
Here is a circuit diagram for Huawei the Chargar IC to exchange
Can someone tell me what a chargar i need
On Chargar IC stands ADT
Thank you
Huawei786 said:
Hello friends
Here is a circuit diagram for Huawei the Chargar IC to exchange
Can someone tell me what a chargar i need
On Chargar IC stands ADT
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know what you mean by "chargar" and what you say there, but the title of this thread is "short circuit" and no longer charged, but if it's true "no longer charged" and it doesn't charge, that means 2 things;
1. Full Motherboard is fried (if the phone still powers on then is not fried)
2. Charging port is fried
To fix that you need to change the complete motherboard, because the charging port is soldered into the board
XTutorials said:
I don't know what you mean by "chargar" and what you say there, but the title of this thread is "short circuit" and no longer charged, but if it's true "no longer charged" and it doesn't charge, that means 2 things;
1. Full Motherboard is fried (if the phone still powers on then is not fried)
2. Charging port is fried
To fix that you need to change the complete motherboard, because the charging port is soldered into the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
When I charge the phone, the power adapter goes off it has a red Led
I think the power supply ic is defective
Where you can find his circuit diagram
Huawei786 said:
Hi
When I charge the phone, the power adapter goes off it has a red Led
I think the power supply ic is defective
Where you can find his circuit diagram
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know. Device diagrams are rarely send to public. Have you made a google search?
Yes I have
Unfortunately no information found because of short circuit
How to fix the short circuit
How can you upload an image here?
Hello, as I mentioned in the title, my device turned off suddenly with some glitches on screen, I was able to turn on several times more but then it turned off completely. When I connect it to power supply, nothing happens that can indicate device is working, like charging light or image on screen etc. So, I connected power meter and checked out that it is drawing power or not. When I press power button It draws around 0.02 amps, I assume that is boot current. Then I searched for this situation and find out that problem might be a failure of power ic. To be sure I started testing basic components in the image and found out one short circuit in red circle. I'm curious about this is normal or not? Anyone knows what cause this problem or what should I check? Your opininon means a lot to me, thanks in advance.
It draws a lot more than 20 ma at boot. That's a control signal.
Red circle, sure it's not a low value power resister?
With all the BGA's on there it's almost a pointless folly to try and troubleshoot the mobo unless you're ready to do some hot air rework.
blackhawk said:
It draws a lot more than 20 ma at boot. That's a control signal.
Red circle, sure it's not a low value power resister?
With all the BGA's on there it's almost a pointless folly to try and troubleshoot the mobo unless you're ready to do some hot air rework.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, isn't there any main point to check out before anything in such a "characteristically" known fault? Just like main power line or buck converters etc.
melltith said:
So, isn't there any main point to check out before anything in such a "characteristically" known fault? Just like main power line or buck converters etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as the mobo is getting it's signals from the switches. Possible battery failure. Also possible that a ribbon connector is loose. Cheap easy fixes... hope it's one of these.
If the battery is old, and had poor SOT, start there and replace it. Then see what you got.
Remove the shorted component marked as red.
Check both contacts of motherboard for short.
Check actual power filter / component on both sides for short.
If there is a short on individual component only with contacts resulting to no short - Download an interactive schematic drawing (boardview) of you're motherboard (S7-Edge).
Locate the component. Download the PDF of schematic. Use Ctrl+F and input part no. of component from interactive schematic drawing.
This will give you component model.
Order it from any online stores such as Ebay, Aliexpress etc..
Replace.
Done ;-)
If there are shorts on Motherboard contacts after component removal:
Check for other components that are shorted.
Remove them.
Check for short and repeat process until no short.
Use previous guide to find all components to replace.
solder the components. If short is on a microcontroller with BGA, Better to buy ones with the solder balls pre soldered from aliexpress. This WILL require a heat gun, flux, tweezers, patience, and precision.
Vancerality said:
Remove the shorted component marked as red.
Check both contacts of motherboard for short.
Check actual power filter / component on both sides for short.
If there is a short - Download an interactive schematic drawing.
Locate the component. Download the PDF of schematic. Use Ctrl+F and input part no. of component from interactive schematic drawing.
This will give you component model.
Order it from any online stores such as Ebay, Aliexpress etc..
Replace.
Done ;-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check "shorted" component's resistance once out of circuit... it may not be the short.
blackhawk said:
Check "shorted" component's resistance once out of circuit... it may not be the short.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Pretty sure OP knows that short is about 0 ohms but you never know...
Vancerality said:
Yes. Pretty sure OP knows that short is about 0 ohms but you never know...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be a low value... it doesn't look fried in the image.
blackhawk said:
It could be a low value... it doesn't look fried in the image.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks may be deceiving from outside but what matters is inside. Most modern (even low cost) multimeters have diode mode which will send audiable beep to indicate of short.