I'm hoping I can get some answers here about this. I have a Kenwood bluetooth head unit in my truck. I like to use S Voice to text, play music and other stuff without touching the phone while driving.
My issue is if Bluetooth is on and if I say Hi Galaxy then say Play Music it acts if it doesn't hear me. If I turn off bluetooth connection between the Note 3 and head unit then say Hi Galaxy then play music it hears me fine and plays music.
I was thinking maybe the mic pickup wasn't cranked up enough to hear me on the head unit. On my head unit I have a setting for Mic Gain. Is this suppose to increase sensitivity for the mic to hear more clearly? It was set to 0 but I cranked it up to +8 and then tried it again with no result.
On the sound bars, below the microphone button on the S Voice, if sound is picked up it will move up. It never moved so it's not hearing me. Now if I banged on the top of my dash with my fist the sound bars move and shows it is picking up sound but it has to be a loud bang to a point I feel like I'm gonna cracked my dash if I keep on doing that.
I can't tell if the issue is my head unit or the phone itself. Bluetooth volume is cranked to the max on the phone.
Do bluetooth head units have built in microphones? I would think they do otherwise it would be a pointless head unit and pointless to have call button functions on the head unit.
Anybody have suggestions?
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Nevermind. After looking over the manual to my head unit I somehow skimmed over the microphone part even though it came with the head unit. I have no clue why I didn't attach it and understand the point for it was to communicate hands free or else the person would not hear me.
Had to take the unit out and install it and it works perfectly now.
This thread can be deleted.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Hello,
I got a very annoying problem with my pumpkin head unit. Theres a noise, like when you place a smartphone close to speaker, which I hear all the time coming out of my car speakers.
Sometimes it's quiet and sometimes I hear that noise.
Is there any way to fix that?
My HeadUnit is (Description from Pumpkin Website):
Pumpkin 7 Inch Quad Core Android 4.4 Car Stereo DVD Player for Opel Vauxhall 2 Din support DAB+ AV Output MirrorLink 3G WiFi OBD2 DVR Steering Wheel Control
I run Malaysk Rom, but had this issues even with the standard ROM.
Would be happy if anybody could help me.
Regards
Ben
bump
No ideas?
Any ideas
I would be happy if someone could help me with my Problem
It's likely noise from the screen. Try turning the screen off and see if it goes away. It won't be easy to fix. Make sure all your grounds are as good as possible and make sure they are as direct to the battery as you can get. Noise like this is from a bad circuit design. It's the difference between an expensive well-engineered board and some POS from China. Yeah, I got one too, the Lollipop unit (self-rooted w/Viper).
If you only get the noise when the car is running it could be noise from your alternator or plug wires. That's harder to fix. You could use one of the crazy capacitors they make for car audio, but if you aren't running a 1000W, they can be overkill. I would try 1000uF cap across the 12V battery supply to ground, as close to the head unit as you can get it. Make sure the cap is rated at least 15V or so (it will see more than 12 from a car!). It will be electrolytic, so make sure you obey polarity. I'll be doing this myself later today.
May be worth a try running a wire from the negative of the battery post to the radio ground...I would just do it quick and easy in the driveway before trying to route it through the car.
Thank you for your support on that...
Unfortunately that sounds not that easy. I thought this might be a common problem with those head units :-/
I have a sound coming thru the speakers as well kinda sounds like a hard drive reading data when its booting up but goes away once its booted & running.
Might try running a better ground see if that helps.
Hi,
So I just want a simple answer to what the logic behind the "subwoofer level" setting is on the head unit. I am now onto buying my 3rd head unit as the first one was a JOYING 10.1inch which was actually perfect but I had to sell it on due to buying another car and not wanting such a big screen.. Needed something that would fit the interior properly so I had to sell the head unit (Wish I didnt as this headunit didnt have a single flaw).
Now the issue starts! I then bought a JOYING 8inch VW headunit with android marshmallow on it and I then installed a subwoofer to it. What I dont understand is this new "Feature" where the sub woofer volume/frequency is controlled seperately from the rest of the speakers which are controlled with the volume knob. Which idiot thought of this!? The problem starts when you turn the volume knob down but oh wait, the sub woofer is still booming really loudly. You then have to go into the subwoofer level setting and adjust that to the volume you want.. and then when you want to put the volume louder, you have to readjust the sub woofer level again!!! Why would you bloody want this when you have sub woofer controllers you can install easily which do the same job!? I then thought okay maybe it is a flaw with the head unit so I sold my brother the headunit and of I went to look for another one.. I thought not going to get another joying again so this time just yestarday I saw the EONON GA8153A octa core android 7.1.1 and I thought WOW I have to buy this.. So I emailed the company to ask about this stupid subwoofer level feature and fingers crossed they didnt have this same feature built in to their head units but so do they!? It would be fine if it actually worked properly but everytime you turn your volume down, you have to adjust the subwoofer level as well and turn it down or if you dont, you have a car which is playing no highs or mids but a crazy amount of bass. It is stupid! Long story short.. I did ask them if they could create a custom android 7.1.1 firmware which will control the sub woofer volume together with the the rest of speakers but its not possible for them yet all these single din head units you see, SONY, PIONEER etc etc have this implemented properly.. Someone please enlighten me on this situation? Any software guru's out there who know how to modify the firmware and make this change possible? Rant over.
Thank You.
This issue must have been introduced on Joying's head units with 7.x ??
My single-din 6.0.1 version JY-UMS03N2 with 7" screen controls all 5 outputs correctly. As far as I know, they also do the same head unit with 8" & 10" screens ?
Might be worth a post on the Joying forum. They do seem to respond occasionally.
pwood999 said:
This issue must have been introduced on Joying's head units with 7.x ??
My single-din 6.0.1 version JY-UMS03N2 with 7" screen controls all 5 outputs correctly. As far as I know, they also do the same head unit with 8" & 10" screens ?
Might be worth a post on the Joying forum. They do seem to respond occasionally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are not calling it an issue.. I contacted joying themselves who said it was a feature and the head unit I purchased yestarday from EONON have also said that this is what the customers asked for yet it doesnt make sense why the customers would ask for this.. I understand the fact that yes you can adjust subwoofer for whenever you dont want it playing then okay understood HOWEVER it also has its negatives where when you do have subwoofer on, you cant control the volume at the same time as when controlling the speaker volume too which makes no sense.
The issue/feature is not with all type of head units because I had a 10.1inch which you have just the bigger screen and that was fine and all outputs adjusted at the same time but the one I am looking for which is this http://www.eonon.co.uk/upload/product/Gallery/GA8153A/GA8153A-01.jpg seems to only adjust the outputs seperately which makes no sense. I will write it on the JOYING forum and see if they come up with a solution but I have already emailed them and they said no solution.
Thanks.
It seems these manufacturers have separated the subwoofer gain from the volume control. Nice to know before I buy. Definitely NOT a feature.
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
TheCleaner said:
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
TheCleaner said:
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same problem here. I emailed joying support no help yet. I was looking for a setting in car setup that used to be in the android 6 units to tell it you wanted the external amp trigger enabled - I could not find that setting in the new Joying Android 8 unit.
sounds exactly like my issue I have posted on Joying forums and have a long chat with Candy at Joying. I am at a loss because the radio app when it comes on plays just fine via my external amp and sub. But when I switch to spotify or bluetooth audio. I get nothing. then if I mute and unmute I get audio to my front and rears but nothing to my subwoofer. I was looking for the external amp settings like I had in my 6.1 Android unit. Nothing. Dont want to send it back because it is fast and looks great. If I do send it back, I am just going to go with Seicane.
Hello all this worked for me. Try taking the top cover off the head unit and look on the board for the round sticker on top of the MCU (in my case the sticker said TP6735D v43-6686) and search the sticker info. Download only the MCU update with the same sticker info (in my case I needed TP6735D v43) after update the sound is working again. Not sure why the website MCU update takes out the sound. Good thing is, you can rollback . Hope this helps.
Playing music from USB will wake our factory amp, but radio station music does not. What would cause this? Is there a way to get radio to wake amp? I think(?) Amp Cont wire is unconnected.
Hi.
I'm quite new in this adventure (LOL)
I have a Belsee android 10 head unit connected to my sound system in a car with DSP and aftermarket amps and speakers (Mazda 6 2017)
a couple of things annoy me and I would like to ask how can I improve the android to work better? Which app I should install it?
Also, have a problem. Sometimes it freezes and has to restart it.
When I turn on the HU the original software is frozen for a while before he kicks on! Is there a way to fix this glitch?
Also what annoys me very much is when I switch off from the android to the normal Original Mazda mod screen Aux music stop playing. Is there something to avoid this?
Also I there anything to have a volume control panel where I can see how much I'm increasing volume? My system is quite loud and I have set the volume to not go above to prevent clipping or distortion and just wanna be safe. Unfortunately, I have to switch to the original OEM from android, the music stops, and then adjust the volume to see what level I am.
Also as the original OEM use a bose amp and now is obviously replaced with aftermarket amps i can't figure out why is my radio and CD/DVD player quieter then AUX output..Anyone knows, please?
I would really appreciate it if someone can give me the best tips and apps to improve the HU.
Thank you!!!
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
eddotykc said:
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.Thanks for your reply. I haven't hope anyone will answer!
I would like to update the firmware but I don't know how..Also, I was reading you can jump straight from android 10 to android 12 but i don't know how to.
I have still a problem with the reversing camera sometimes..
There is absolutely poor communication with the Chinese..Their English is like hello. connect to the original radio then ok?... So what the hell that means?!!!!
Also, does the volume button piss me off? Is there a way somehow with some app to get the volume from the OEM screen to transfer to the android?
Also, I have an issue checking the android for clipping by oscilloscope..My focal tweeters sound harsh and sparkling when I increase the volume...I don't know if there has to be a balance between the volume of OEM to volume on AU|X?I ws reading somewhere someone checks the original OEM for clipping and it says there is no clipping on full volume..I have to test it..The problem is I don't know whether to check the voltage from HU before the pre amp or after..I bought an adapter from amazon which on one end is a wire to strip in and another side is RCA female output when I'm running 8 wires into the DSP Focal and then to each amp.
About DSP in android ..Do not use this..Its a crap..I tested with a scope. It's clipping like hell and producing a lot of distortion.
But my main issue is the correct voltage output from HU because if you set the voltage in DSP software on a computer wrongly you by sending to the amps digital clipping....
About the Radio in android, i have only FM which i don't know why because i purchase DAB and install it..Also the DAB is very weak..it may be because of interference from somewhere..
I have as well the problem with the left door speaker cutting of few times..
Would love to move from android 10 to 12 - have you found firmware file to do it?
I actually changed out the back-up camera for a third party model that i can choose from six different views and it works great with both the mazda connect and android.
On the distortion issue, have you checked all the wiring behind glove compartment and heat unit to make sure there isn't a wire exposed potentially causing the distortion. I had a problem on the rca going to an under-seat sub sounding like crap until i wrapped the left and right as they came out of the PAC AOEM line-out converter and ensured it ran opposite of power/ground wiring.
I’m not using PAC.you don’t have to because if you measure the output voltage from hu is only between 0.6-0.8v before the factory preamp .after that is 2.4V so I bought on Amazon just adapter which on one end plug wires and other end rca. Then they run in to the dsp. But what really make my piss of is the volume on radio which is very quiet.I try your tactics without result.I don’t know if the Bose amp increase the volume or… other things have you manage to do the big 3 upgrade?at the moment I have 155amp alternator and second battery at the back xs power 3400 .the thing is I can’t connect alternator to battery as it causing charging eloop malfunkcion.it has to be done somehow to pass the sensor but haven’t figure out test.any idea?also charging screen not ready for I start stop -battery .when I disconnect second battery then fine full ready. It’s the upgrade issue alt to battery or alt? If where can I get bigger one ?
Good Morning!
I have a 2017 Mazda 6 with Bose system and amp & just installed a Belsee android 10 with dual capability to use my factory infotainment + android. Is this the same one ya’ll have? Im also a novice when it comes to all of this so I’m working with a local car stereo shop to figure it all out. 1) We’re either of ya’ll able to plug in the center control knob? Factory system and original screen both had 4pin plugs, but Android has a proprietary plug with 4pin to plug into original infotainment system, so there are no more 4pin ports. 2) when I plug in the RCA cables I get a background static that doesn’t go away — constantly on once the system boots (and is there when I’m on the OEM and Android). Android side base volume is low and I have to crank volume way up to hear. 3) when using wireless Apple car play on Android side and making calls, the receiver gets a horrible immediate echo of their voice. Not sure of the fix for volume and echo, just thought I’d throw it out here if any of you or those on the forum have similar problems or a solution. Thanks!
.
Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
mjs8rkis said:
Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TAU = Tuner Amplifier Unit. Google is my friend. I’m getting smarter at this by the day! Lol. It’s one thing to work through good quality products that have diagrams and such … but having to pull teeth to get back one to two liners in broken English is very frustrating. Even more so when they say these units are “plug and play” lol
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
.
Stefanek33 said:
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah yes, received that connector and ran it through to the Aux in on the Android. I have the static and the low volume and echo on Bluetooth/CarPlay calling still.
For the center control knob, I have this power/4pin connector (attached pic), and I can connect it to the factory, but then the Android blue cable that connect from Android head unit to that 4pin port won’t connect. Will I still get the factory system to show? I’ll need to extend the cable though to get it to plug into the factory since it won’t reach.
Thanks!
The blu cable has nothing to do with the central consol .blue wire from android the second end connect to the metal part of oem.
That’s right. But if I leave blue connected to the metal part of OEM, I have no other place to plug the center console plug. All Rambo told me was to unplug the blue and see what happens lol
I connect the central console back to the OEM metal bracket..I think in my one the 4 pins are positioned on the left back side..How is it look like your metal Bracket from back..Can you make some pic.?
I was able to get the center knob to work! I kept the blue 4 pin cable, but apparently in a previous install the guy helping me ran a separate 8pin cable that didn’t connect to anything, so I found the correct 8pin that is connected to the power cable and it all works. Now I just need to try and solve the echo and static issue. I think if I go the way you did and completely replace the Bose system, it would work — though might end up with the same issue you have. Happy New Year!
How is working aux for you?You have to plug the silly 3.5mm jack in to the aux slot then switch to the Aux on the OEM..When you increase the volume on aux did you hear static noise with or without starting the engine?Please let me know!Its very important!
.
Stefanek33 said:
If you can please do that .Do not play any music.Just plug in and increase both volumes on max if you hear any hiss or static noise from tweeters etc...The problem is the 3.5mm jack doesn't have close circuit and I wanna find out if this is the main concern causing the issue...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
mjs8rkis said:
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make some short video and upload on vimeo ..We have to do something with it as Rambo wasnt really honest with as.