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After going through several lousy car mounts with dangling cigarette lighter wires and suction cups popping off the windshield and dashboard I had had enough of this *(&*^&*&^(*)(%$%$#. Time to put on a professional looking permanent installation!
After much research I came upon a solution for my AT&T Tilt. I have an older Taurus which does not have any external (even in the back of the radio) connectivity for audio inputs, so I decided against making changes to integrate the sound between the tilt and the car (but I did want the unit's batteries charged in the mount). Note all powered car mounts need a small transformer, which in many of the versions out there in the marketplace are oin the mount itself, which makes it very bulky. I preferrred one that comes with a separate transformer which can be hidden. I also wanted the PDA up near the windshield so I would not have to look far away from the road while driving, which I consider dangerous - but did not want to have some huge clunky thing sticking up in the middle of the dash - I wanted it as small and unobtrusive as possible. The only mount specifically designed for snapping into place on my model car my car (www.proclipusa.com) actually put the mount on the console down near the shifter between the seats so that was not very useful either. I had decided upon the active Brodit car mount as I wanted to be able to open the keyboard while the unit is in the mount, and wanted to be able to move the mount any which way without worrying if the mount would come loose. This car kit is minimal in size and has a separate transformer which can be hidden as well. With all the above caveats there was nothing else on the market that was handy, unobtrusive, and didn't end up with a lousy plug for the lighter to power the unit (yech). So, here was my solution (7 photos attached). All the parts shown can be purchased at www.proclipusa.com.
Photo #1: Dashboard showing my situation (this was actually part way through the installation, you can see the transformer hanging down under the steering wheel, I just stuffed it up out of view when I was finished with the work).
Photo #2: Fuse Box Connections (under the steering wheel by the firewall). Note all I did was pull the cover off the fuse box, pull the 20 amp fuse out, and wrap the red positive lead around one of the prongs of the fuse which I just stuck in place later. I will probably buy an in-line fuse and put it on the red wire later. (I used the 20 amp fuse for the ignition for the ignition which is only powered while the car is running - I wanted this for the mount's transformer so as not to wear down the battery when the car is not in use). The black lead only has to go to the ground in the car so you can see I was just starting to wrap it around the nut holding the fusebox in place, which is grounded.
Photo #3: Note - all powered car mounts need a small transformer, which in many of the versions out there in the marketplace are on the mount itself, which makes is very bulky. I preferrred one that comes with a separate transformer which can be hidden. So with everything wired up and installed, I hid the wire (and transformer below) andnothing is in view but the wire for the brodit mount going up to the dash. Also note the block attached to the dashboard - to the left of the steering wheel. Easily visibly by the driver, and not destroying the look of the dash in the middle of the car. This block was still too horizontal but it is very solidly connected to the dashboard on the left of the driver's seat, up near the windshield but neatly out of the way. No windshield obstruction whatsoever!
Photo #4: I mounted a second block on top of the first to improve the angle. Note the center two holes which were added for screws to connect the two block and still leave the surface of the second block flat for the brodit mount. It not only made the installation rock solid, but I decided to improve that even further by replacing the two screws on the bottom first block and putting longer screws on the bottom going through both blocks. (I did not want to glue the second block onto the first because that way I would have no way of removing the screws holding the first block in place later - and glue comes undone.) This thing is rock hard - not going anywhere. Most other car mounts get loose over time and with just a little wiggling end up coming off. Not this baby! Won't even wiggle!
Photo #5: Brodit mount screwed onto the top block. Beautiful! Swivels 360% around and tilts every which way. The screw in the center of the mount can be tightened slightly so that the mount only moves if you really try to move it using definite force. Nothing at all loose here - rock solid! (Also note, this mount can be swapped for another brodit mount fitting any PDA on the market, just by loosening that center screw!) Note the two circled areas. They are tiny plastic adhesive wire holders which can be purchased at any hardware store to keep the wires where you want them...
Photo #6: Vertical use with AT&T Tilt - (see white circle - being charged)!
Photo #7: Horizontal use with AT&T Tilt - note you can easily slide the keyboard open - (see white circle - still being charged)!
dude, looks sweet. What are you doing this coming weekend? Can you work on my car?
this is really awesome! the only thing is that i hope ur left handed
Left handedness
I don't think left or right-handedness is a factor - when driving on the highway you cannot really touch any of the tiny software buttons on the screen to use the thing anyway - too dangerous. However, the external hardware buttons - I don't think most people have to use their predominant hand to press a hardware button... If that was the case then most drivers in europe (with the right side steering wheel) wouldn't be able to use the radio unless they were left handed?
Don't you find it very difficult to put the Tytn2 into the Brodit holder? I have one too, but I find it very cumbersome. I have to fiddle with it a couple of times before I get it in properly (onto the USB connector). Previously I had the Brodit holder for my MDA Vario and that went in with my eyes closed.
My guess is that the bad fit is caused by the big empty space between the back of the device and the holder (for big batteries?). If Brodit was to make something to fit in there so that you have some kind of reference when you insert the device, it would be better. The way it is now, it is only irritating me in the morning...
Sliding it in
I find I do have to adjust it ever so slightly to get it seated correctly. However, I believe it is better to have the space so that:
1. The unit will fit with any size battery
2. The GPS signal is not weakened
KruseLudsMobile said:
I find I do have to adjust it ever so slightly to get it seated correctly. However, I believe it is better to have the space so that:
1. The unit will fit with any size battery
2. The GPS signal is not weakened
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt the GPS signal is weakened less by the plastic being an inch further away. And I don't know where the actual antenna is. If it's there where the connector is, it's no problem. That one is clear from the holder.
Also, it's a contradiction to have both the holder and a fat battery. I'm in my car for an hour or two every day (sometimes longer). Long enough to keep the battery loaded. The engineers of Brodit could have thought of an insert so that the space is filled. If you have a fat battery, remove the insert.
I'm not a clumsey person. My previous device slipped in the Brodit holder like it came of the same mould. This one is next to impossible to do without looking very careful, which is not easy in the dark. It's also part fault of the device manufacterers. My old Nokia phone had special idents at the bottom which gripped into the carkit. They don't do that anymore. They seem to think that because of BT you keep the device in your pocket. Such a shame...
Reception
There is one thing I do have to say about your last response - the reception woulod be affected if there were no space there. The GPS antenna is in the back and that part of the holder is completely metal.
KruseLudsMobile said:
There is one thing I do have to say about your last response - the reception woulod be affected if there were no space there. The GPS antenna is in the back and that part of the holder is completely metal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, but the antenna is on the top part of the device (where the external GPS antenna plug is). And that is the part that is nog covered by the holder. ie: it sticks out. So I doubt if the reception would be hampered by the holder if there wasn't a space.
Reported experience after extensive use (as promised) - daily for 2 1/2 weeks
As promised here is my experience after extensive use. Promise to try to keep the rambling to a minimum.
Sections below -
A. Four warnings - all on safety
B. Stylus Access/Battery Usage
C. GPS/Battery Usage
D. Position of the Mount
E. Gap on the Mount
F. Sliding in and out of the holder
G. Mount closer or further away from the driver; more dangerous? More convenient? -
H. Mount Location legality?
--------------------------
A. Three warnings - all on safety:
1. The extra cabling and transformer that I had just stuffed up behind other wires near the fusebox near the foot pedals - fell out and was hanging down - not very safe - but fortunately it did not happen while I was driving. Good note to people installing anything in their car - be sure everything mounted anywhere near where your hands and feet go while driving - is very securely mounted!
2. DO NOT USE the screen for anything but GPS display - even if you are using voice recognition software (as you need to then look at the screen) unless using only to make phone calls.
3. Note "B." below. I advise AGAINST trying to use a stylus while you are driving. VERY EASY to get into an accident.
4. NEVER, EVER, EVER leave the unit in the cradle - or even anywhere in the car - when you are out of the car for any length of time at all. Some people say even having their cars broken into because a thief saw the mount and thought the unit may be in the glove compartment.
B. Stylus Access/Battery Usage - I have seen only one holder (not this one) that includes a separate slot for an extra stylus to use while the Kaiser is in the car mount. This one does not include that - BUT - you can STILL pull out the stylus easily even when the unit is in the mount - handy. BTW, GPS programs really do such the life out of these batteries, don't they? At least with this mount it is charging it with enough juice to overcome the GPS drain (I have seen older (non-Kaiser) PDAs that drain juice faster than they get charged when in a indoor powered cradle nonetheless!). I don't know if that ability to charge even when a lot of power is being consumed by the unit is due to the charger or the version of the PDA itself. Anyone want to run some tests with different mount/cradle/PDA/software combinations?
C. GPS/Battery Usage - I won't get into a heavy discussion about GPS software in this thread because I don't want it to go off on a tangent. Suffice it to say the unit is often off track by about 25-50 feet at the max (usually about 25 feet) when I have a signal - but the GPS sure does use alot of juice, doesn't it? It seems like if you get into the car with a unit that has a somewhat low battery charge and use the GPS in the holder (while charging if the ignition is on of course - that's the way you should wire it) the PDA battery still does get recharged - but much more slowly. Funny thing is, that is not even an issue because I usually would not use the GPS unless I am driving longer distances anyway. If the battery is really low and I don't need the GPS (most trips) I will just set the unit to sleep or even turn the unit off altogether (phone included) and put it into the mount when I get in the car - for even a very short drive the battery really charges very quickly with this mount (yeah ). How about a car mount with a slot in the back for an extra battery? That would be nice...
D. Position of the Mount -I could have possibly used another angled block. I find myself sometimes trying to tilt the mount ever so slightly more than it can go (so the screen is more vertical). However, that is a very minor isue and at this point not work making any modifications. (I may change my mind later, however - if so, I will supply more photos or update the original sticky post here.)
E. Gap on the Mount - Gap that people have been talking about behind the unit (between the back of the unit and the mount) - that does not bother me so much as the fat connector at the bottom of the unit - which is somewhat unsightly and larger than it needs to be. It does block my headlight switches - but I never need to look at those switches anyway.
F. Sliding in and out of the holder - this is an issue but a very minor one. I find that about 10-15% of the time when I slide it into place it is not mounted correctly and I have to pull it out and try to slide it in again. I suppose if there was no gap as specified in "E." above then it would slide into place 100% of the time with no problem. Although I believe it is meant to allow people with extended (larger) batteries to also use the unit - since it is always powered while I am driving the car - I rarely need to charge my batteries anyway. I was going to get an extended battery - but I really have no need to - most of the time I am at the office, at home, or in the car. In each of those three places I have a charger. I also keep a charger in my briefcase so when I go from office to office for meetings etc. I always have a charger nearby anyway...
G. Mount closer or further away from the driver; more dangerous? More convenient? - wouldn't drivers be more tempted to check email, etc. if it was really close to the driver?
H. Mount Location legality? - Isn't it a rule in the US that the windshield cannot be blocked at all (in my case it isn't) - even though the rule may be loosely or rarely enforced - isn't that what the suction cups on windshields do? Anybody get a ticket because of that? Or is the rule about partial blockage? Is this a state or nationwide regulation, what are the rules for that in Europe? ( I am in the US in NJ...)
Really good thread here. I figured I'd share the pics of my HTC Tilt mounted with the same car kit in my 1998 GMC Sierra K1500.
-Jay
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Looks nice...
Looks very nice, thanks for the post... but - how come you use a cigarette lighter plug instead of the kit with the wires you can hide? You may want to consider that...
KruseLudsMobile said:
Looks very nice, thanks for the post... but - how come you use a cigarette lighter plug instead of the kit with the wires you can hide? You may want to consider that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because I want to buy a second device clip for my car, and be able to switch between the two. I don't want to have to buy two $69 cradles, especially to buy a second cradle for a car that I only drive about 2,500 miles a year.
-Jay
Jay2TheRescue said:
Because I want to buy a second device clip for my car, and be able to switch between the two. I don't want to have to buy two $69 cradles, especially to buy a second cradle for a car that I only drive about 2,500 miles a year.
-Jay
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not to mention the hard wire kit is another $30 more than the cig lighter one.
I recently took the plunge and bought the active kit and a clip for my Impala. I'm planning on doing the same thing and getting a clip for the Tahoe eventually. Still not looking forward to another $30 for just the clip. I'm hoping the build quality and stability is worth the small fortune you have to pay.
joshuah82 said:
Not to mention the hard wire kit is another $30 more than the cig lighter one.
I recently took the plunge and bought the active kit and a clip for my Impala. I'm planning on doing the same thing and getting a clip for the Tahoe eventually. Still not looking forward to another $30 for just the clip. I'm hoping the build quality and stability is worth the small fortune you have to pay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
$30 more? I didn't notice that. For that price I'd cut the lighter plug off and hard wire it if I really wanted a hard wired solution.
-Jay
Jay2TheRescue said:
$30 more? I didn't notice that. For that price I'd cut the lighter plug off and hard wire it if I really wanted a hard wired solution.
-Jay
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't do it that way. Many/all "car chargers" have circuitry inside the plug that protects your phone. A better solution is to buy a $5 cigarette lighter "socket" from radio shack, wire that in somewhere behind your dash, then plug your kit into that.
As promised - pic of my install in a 2004 Nissan Titan. Mounting brackets (for the phone and iPod) are both from Panavise.
40-Dan said:
As promised - pic of my install in a 2004 Nissan Titan. Mounting brackets (for the phone and iPod) are both from Panavise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks sharp!
-Jay
Re
Also a picture from my setup in the car....
TytNII
brodit active kit with proclip
parrot MK6000
Pioneer headset!
All works like a charm.....
swiftgs said:
Also a picture from my setup in the car....
TytNII
brodit active kit with proclip
parrot MK6000
Pioneer headset!
All works like a charm.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you're not watching videos while driving!
-Jay
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
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For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.
ratykat said:
Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am getting rid of the Radio unit all together. Using the USB DAC to send audio to an EQ which has an input from the DAC, and the AUX input. The EQ has a physical push button to switch between Main IN and the AUX IN inputs. So i wanted to Run a Female connector to the center console so that i could just plug in an male cord to the Female Input and hook that up to anyone's phone if they wanted.
Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?
ratykat said:
Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How to mount the Aux... I cant find a RCA to Female Aux that allows it to be fixed installed.
EDIT:
LIKE THIS!!!! But Cheaper lol, i dont care for the aftermarket USB + Aux either..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-XMC-3-5MM-PNL-3-5-mm-Panel-Mount-Jack-connects-aux-cable-/301084428008?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item461a07c6e8
BurningCanine said:
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.
butwhydoitalk2u said:
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aux was not an option in my year mustang. The plexiglass just helps keep the components in one place, if i ever decide to rip it out when i sell the car. I am running into an issue on where to install the EQ however.
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.
ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was mostly interested in Timurs due to the huge support behind him, and all of the drivers, and programs already built into his Rom/Kernal. It just made it so much more simple to me. Also for that Aux Cable, i want to retain a factory look, and i cant see that being very factory looking inside my center console. I think i will end up using the JBL one that i posted earlier, it looks more factory than the rest and i can ensure that the quality is the highest.
butwhydoitalk2u said:
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im going to run temp activated fan i think to control when it gets to hot. Seems the best for me since it can be on when the car is off to keep it a little cooler in the summer. That small of a fan wouldnt drain the battery too fast either. AS far as the EQ, i chose this EQ because of the physical Volume nob. Im thinking that i am going to end up moving the buttons for my Fogs, Defrost and Traction control down, and glass the EQ in their spots.
Well, i went to install the tablet today. Ended up breaking the OTG cable so i have another one on the way by saturday. Will update when it comes!
Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying
ratykat said:
Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable didnt break, but the tip of the OTG cable did. When i was installing i had to bend it a little to go into a notch i made in my console, well it bent to much and wouldnt work anymore. I may try and shave the supporting rubber around it and make a right angle from it.
Yeah looking more and more of it, i think im going to go with the JL one because i have a cigarette lighter outlet in the bezel on my dash that doesn't work that well, so i will just replace it with that. As far as power, i had bought 2 DC-DC 15w 3a usb chargers that you wire directly to a 12v supply, turns out that they didnt work so im contacting the seller to see if it is my fault they dont work or just faulty. If it turns out that it does not work regardless of what i did i am going to go to radio shack and pick up an accessories socket and glue it to the inside of the box i made so it wont be seen. Turns out that the harness i bought from metra has a power and a ground and it will shut off and turn on as the key is turned. So if it comes down to it i will hook it up to that. Also seeing as my remote on wire wont be connected to anything i hooked that up to the power to the radio as well and piggy backed the EQ remote on from it. I will let you know what happens with the power though, i have it currently hooked up to the cigarette lighter that doesn't work all the time, and it seems to be doing fine.
As far as timurs rom goes, it has everything i want in one rom. It has all the files for backup camera, it has power management, DAC doesnt have any issues, it is a seamless product with all the necessities i needed in one build. One of the reasons i went towards that rom is because of the amount of stuff in one place that i wouldnt have to hunt for!
Its all finished for the time being, i will start adding on the other things later on as i need them.
Im looking for a super super thing auxiliary cable. I litteralt have the space of two quaters. Tried removine all the rubber and folding but still the mettal part is too long
dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol
BurningCanine said:
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
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How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??
kbrn said:
dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol
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Click to collapse
Lol, Wasnt that hard at all. If you want to do the build i can hook you up with all the information and resources to get u where u need to be.
lucky_strike33 said:
How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Local Staples had them on clearance, had trouble with register taking my card. Manager gave me 15% Discount for my troubles.
UPDATE: System works fine so far, only one little bug that i am working out. GPS and wifi connect and work properly, USB DAC works flawlessly, charger works well. The little bug is that when the tablet comes out of firm sleep the buttons dont seem to work except the back button. Dont know what it is but im looking into it.
Where do I buy Timur for my nexus 2013? I went onto his website but couldn't find the donation or download option?
so i have a somewhat similar install in my e39. I am doing 3.5mm to RCA right now, i want to make the switch over to USB OTG.
What specific parts do I need to make it work??
PS I have a pre-amp RCA input processor that it has to connect to.
Mirrored from my Amazon review on this unit:
Here are all of the pieces we purchased with the A62721PB 2G/32G, in order to install in our 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 truck. Install is still not complete, but I'll get to that in a bit.
(associate links removed for spam filter)
As you can see, its an ordeal to install this unit. Even the manufacturer doesn't seem to understand the vehicles it will be installed in, in our case, a 06 Ram 1500. Standard Chrysler wiring (would be the same for almost any 06 Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep... etc) telling me to tap into the -5v canbus wiring as the accessory switch. To properly install this in those vehicles, you need a CanBus adapter, which will give you the ability to turn to ACC and run the unit, and allow it to dim with the interior lighting. Neither of those are done in a 12v switched wire in these vehicles. Oh, and you will need an antenna adapter too... both of these I have yet to buy . If you have more than basic radio functions in your vehicle, you need a better install kit. Basic wiring wont cut it to do the job right.
As it is, I used a tap to the ignition switch (+12v) to turn the unit on until I have a few bucks to pick up a proper install. So think of all of that when buying. To get all the functions, you need more parts, so a $300 radio turns into a $500 radio quick.
OK.. Use. Most of my use is with Google Maps, Amazon Music (offline) or the backup cam. Getting those or any software setup with large downloads was a pain, as this unit shuts off the wifi with the key, so no updates while you sleep, and no way to turn that functionality on. Unless you leave your keys in the vehicle (not the best choice). And with the sub-par performance of the wifi in this unit, its going to take a while. I can see my home wifi all over my property with our phones. The truck only seems to see my neighbor's connection. The antenna is mounted under the black part of the windshield trim, just out of view. In fact, the only good reception I've gotten is with a portable hotspot in the truck. The A6 also cannot seem to see our 5gHz channels. These seem to be built to the same standards as generic 2010 tablets.
The built in pairing is useless. It just shares the screen image with the head unit. No controls, no passthrough... just video. If I wanted to use my phone I would have stuck to the ram mount. PDA-Net is the only way I've been able to connect, as my phone plan doesn't include wifi hotspot.
Speaking of phone hookup and this unity, you can share data (like PDA. net) or use fast charge. not both? And those USB leads really should come with some sort of bracket and template for in-dash installation. We plan on making these, but really, it would be a lot nicer to have it come with. Right now, they just fall out of the bottom of the dash like an afterthought.
Additionally, we negated to install the microphone. Most times people can hear you fine. If not, you have to re-boot the system. You also have to reboot when it wont pause music when a call comes in, or lower sound when the rear camera activates.
-Side note about that pause... most sub $30 bluetooth adapters resume your media when you start the vehicle back up. not this one.. you got to hush the FM software, navigate back to your music (Amazon music in our case) and then hit play. Since there is no play button on the factory remote, its a real pain in the backside. Not well thought out Atoto. -
Reverse cam is basic, we bought the matching ATOTO one and the quality is garbage. Looking for a better unit now. Nice that it just lowers the music while backing up, and doesn't cut out though.
I haven't tried to install a better home screen or layout in this unit. It would help to have a bit more open framework. The colors and designs are bland and garish at the same time (congrats on that hot mess Atoto) with no support for changing them.
The best looking interface and use so far has been Torque, which we have the pro version of, and has been useful to see a few tuning parameters as well as info for towing. We bought a generic ODB2 dongle and it works fine. The downside is the built in browser for looking up a trouble code that came from blowing out our dash lighting during install (dumb grounding mistake, should have known better and pulled the battery leads. ) No support for acceleration sensors though, seems the A6 does not have them. So if you want this for your autocross car, maybe skip it and just use a used Samsung Tab or something.
Im going to look into re-flashing the headunit after we button up the install with a better ROM, better apps, and hope I can find a good dashcam utility that works for this. CarWebGuru works at first, but then on re-boot will disable all sound, cameras, and the remote if left as the launcher. If not, it still works, but is kindof redundant.
overall, its a project. Take a full day to get it all installed, maybe longer to dial it in right.
Overall, so far, we spent a total of $368.17, and will be spending at least another $80 on this unit. I guess that is the name of the game when you want to do things right, and not spend $800+ on a turnkey system.
I also discovered that Prey security will install, but not open on this unit. Thought it would be nice to have a bit of additional theft protection int eh truck and the ability to track it if it did get stolen.
. I recently bought the a6 and had to learn the hard way also. I'm installing in a 13 Dodge Durango.
Majority of the extra cost would come with any new aftermarket unit since newer vehicles need to communicate with the can us system. I went in also thinking I could buy the cheap harness and be good to go. Majority of the Chinese headunits are made for international vehicles. . Most are plug and play.
I got on lightning deal for $200 and so far about $100 in parts. But I expect this with any aftermarket radio I install. Days of cheap harness and dash kit are over.
But anything is worth the cost vs my stock radio.
Just like any Chinese product(coming from Android TV boxes) they take a lot of tinkering but that comes with the cheap price. I plan on 8nstalling one of the car launchers and replacing every non essetnial app.
Power amp or gmmp for music. So with my limited testing, I've had a good experience. I'm within 20ft of my router at home so speeds been great. Bluetooth has been Rock solid also with media.
Will post more on Sunday when I complete the install.
Right on. I didnt have the cash to buy one from some place thats worked out more bugs. I have industry friends that sell a unit that retails at $800, adn I could get it wholesale, but thats still a chunk more cash than I had.
Got my wifi a bit better sorted this afternoon by putting a repeater out in my little tool shed, and finally have 75% of the tomtomgo USA map downloaded. This unit nor that app are good at downloading. I also noticed something about Car Web Guru on startup... if the factory launcher does not have default access, not only will certain things stop working (cameras, sound, USB), but it screws with the clock, which then throws off other apps that use the clock as part of any sort of key. Amazon does this with offline music, which I have a lot of on here.
TeamADW said:
Right on. I didnt have the cash to buy one from some place thats worked out more bugs. I have industry friends that sell a unit that retails at $800, adn I could get it wholesale, but thats still a chunk more cash than I had.
Got my wifi a bit better sorted this afternoon by putting a repeater out in my little tool shed, and finally have 75% of the tomtomgo USA map downloaded. This unit nor that app are good at downloading. I also noticed something about Car Web Guru on startup... if the factory launcher does not have default access, not only will certain things stop working (cameras, sound, USB), but it screws with the clock, which then throws off other apps that use the clock as part of any sort of key. Amazon does this with offline music, which I have a lot of on here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe these stereos are any different from one another. I've read about changing launchers breaking things. Luckily I believe there is a fix out there.
Probably try emailing them for possible fix..
I still need the steering wheel module but thats something I'll do in future upgrade
intruda119 said:
I don't believe these stereos are any different from one another. I've read about changing launchers breaking things. Luckily I believe there is a fix out there.
Probably try emailing them for possible fix..
I still need the steering wheel module but thats something I'll do in future upgrade
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have emailed them, but the language barrier is strong here. Talked about changing the launcher, and they told me it is not possible, but I am willing to try more now that I have a few more tools at hand.
Just curious, if your vehicle doesn't have a 12v acc, is there a 12v power outlet /cig lighter (or anything else) that is controlled by the key. You could use any 12v that is controlled by the key and tie it the unit acc.
stabone00 said:
Just curious, if your vehicle doesn't have a 12v acc, is there a 12v power outlet /cig lighter (or anything else) that is controlled by the key. You could use any 12v that is controlled by the key and tie it the unit acc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What vehicle do you have?
If nothing is there under the radio dash, you can tap into the fuse box.
Wont work. 12v+ ACC is controlled by the bus. With the key off, the cigar lighter ports are still charged with 8-10v, which the unit sees as an on trigger.
In order to get around this, you need a canbus controller, which is available from a few companies.
intruda119 said:
What vehicle do you have?
If nothing is there under the radio dash, you can tap into the fuse box.
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Click to collapse
I agree, fuse box would be your best bet. Aside from just the key switch, you could probably find a delayed off or open door off. If not, you just need to find a circuit activated by the key, could be any voltage made or ground made. Relays are cheap.
stabone00 said:
I agree, fuse box would be your best bet. Aside from just the key switch, you could probably find a delayed off or open door off. If not, you just need to find a circuit activated by the key, could be any voltage made or ground made. Relays are cheap.
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Click to collapse
Yeah need to know what type of vehicle it is.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Any body get Waze working?
Unit can't find position/gps
Why would I do that in this truck with a relay and aux fuse panel, when I can control th dimming and ACC on via the canbus and an appropriate interface? Ive dealt with a lot of vehicle electronics (its part of my job) and going around a proven modern system with a bunch of jankey wiring just looks bad, especially in this case where it isnt needed.
In our Jeep Cherokee, maybe, but that also has things liek additional trailer wiring and radio equipment going in, as well as separate harnesses for the lighting to overcome stock deficiencies, but the Ram is pretty solid. Atoto says they have a built in canbus interface coming, just not there yet.
TeamADW said:
Why would I do that in this truck with a relay and aux fuse panel, when I can control th dimming and ACC on via the canbus and an appropriate interface? Ive dealt with a lot of vehicle electronics (its part of my job) and going around a proven modern system with a bunch of jankey wiring just looks bad, especially in this case where it isnt needed.
In our Jeep Cherokee, maybe, but that also has things liek additional trailer wiring and radio equipment going in, as well as separate harnesses for the lighting to overcome stock deficiencies, but the Ram is pretty solid. Atoto says they have a built in canbus interface coming, just not there yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah why would you do that?
Our last few post was towards the guy asking about it. We can only assume he has an older vehicle.
intruda119 said:
Yeah why would you do that?
Our last few post was towards the guy asking about it. We can only assume he has an older vehicle.
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Click to collapse
Ah, my bad. Yeah, if you have an older vehicle, you could do a relay setup for ACC, but normally thats just a stop on the key, at least back to the 70s.
My thoughts.
Built in amp is 10x better than the stock one.
Very little lag when operating the unit. Lags a bit when streaming and downloading at same time.
Plays all types of media.
Screen is great. Easily used with sunlight shining through(sun roof)
Dims at night time correctly.
2sec boot is amazing.
Presistent app permissions notification drives me nuts.
App installs take forever(download is fast as the connection)
3ven thought 99% of time I'm listening to Google play or off HDD would be nice to limit volume when turning on car when fm radio auto starts.
Everything outside of my noobnesw and lots of user error has been plug and play. What's taking me 2 weeks so far would probably take experienced person 1hr or less.
I took apart the unit and can't understand why these units are bigger than name brand headunits. There is nothing in them but space.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
The screen is very nice. Boot time is more like time to pop the screen on, like when you hit the power button on your phone after its been in your pocket on standy. The real boot time takes forever (why is this microwave so slow!!!!1)
Mine keeps having issues with SD cards. have had it randomly say its corrupted, pull it out, reinsert, and all good. Just odd I think . And I finally found a good GPS app for this one, since it has enough space, the TomTom app is perfect. At least for my uses, even with having to pay for a month when using it for longer distances.
My biggest issue other than the few mentioned already in this thread, is the lack of speaker settings. There isn't enough options for speaker fine tuning, and as a result I can't get my speakers to sound good at all without massive distortion and clipping. Anyone know if there's a solution for this?
XDApurp said:
My biggest issue other than the few mentioned already in this thread, is the lack of speaker settings. There isn't enough options for speaker fine tuning, and as a result I can't get my speakers to sound good at all without massive distortion and clipping. Anyone know if there's a solution for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best I can think of would be through a different amplifier than the built in one. Best luck I have had is with the "natural" setting. Its all software based, I found that it stops working and needs rebooted to get the profile back. Im betting thats a driver issue, and one we wont see updated in the A6.
You guys do know the trick about hitting BACK when the FM tuner comes up, then selecting the Atoto AUX and hitting HOME (leaving it in memory) to prevent the auto-start of FM and getting blasted out of the cab, right?
With the AUX trick, CarWebGuru (or other launchers) will autostart just fine. Every now and then (especially after a long power-off, like a day or two) you might have to repeat the trick, and more often, you'll need to manually start AUX if things like steering wheel controls or the Atoto equalizer isn't working after a restart (Aux or FM will force a restart of the MCU hardware).
Hi everyone,
Due to the lack of (and dispersed) information about these particular head units, here's a thread where we can discuss and help each other out to make the most of these units. Please note this thread is not for Sofia or MCDB/C/D/E units, there are ample threads about those. I am not a full-time software developer, so please do correct me if you think I'm wrong about something. Please do think twice before experimenting on your unit, no one else is responsible for it but yourself. I'm also dying for a custom ROM, if there's any dev making one for these, please know I'm availing my unit for experimentation. It is a powerful Unit which unfortunately is plagued by software problems which is why I believe a dev can make a better job than the manufacturer.
Also, special thanks to @surfer63 for his Joying Extra Tools (JET apk) which has been a critical tool for rooting, among other things.
I will be taking the unit out of the car and opening it up to install a heat sink and take some pictures of the insides, let me know if anyone's interested in close-ups of anything on the board.
{Reserved for Hardware}
The unit was advertised as compatible with BMW X5 and E39 (5series 1996-2001). My car is a 1997 520i with the low-end dashboard so that's the context I'll be speaking in. The unit shipped complete with adapter cables which connect to the original connectors for the radio, magnetic GPS antenna, external mic (more on the internal mic later), 2 USB ports which are permanently attached to the unit (as well as an sd card slot), a couple of flimsy brackets which screw in place of the original radio holder. However 2 screws which attach the unit to the brackets were not provided and i had to rummage around until i found 2 screws that fit. Unfortunately the original radio antenna cable on the car doesn't fit the unit, however the bundle of cables has an antenna plug with it, it's just a matter of replacing it (someday, as I don't really use radio at all).
The Unit is reporting to have an ARM64-v8a architecture and an rk30sdk board, 4GB RAM as well as 32GB of internal storage. External storage is detected almost immediately as well and I had no problems with files stored on a pendrive. The CPU tends to run hot, occasionally going beyond 80degrees Celcius, I therefore have a small fan and heatsink ordered which I will try to squeeze into the single-DIN box. Worth mentioning it has buttons and a knob on either side of the screen which are backlit and positively responsive. Regarding the in-built microphone, it "works" in theory, ie. it hears you if you tap on it, but it doesn't hear my voice even with the engine idling, let alone cruising down the autobahn. Fortunately it comes with an external mic, I'll hook it up when I pull it out for the fan job.
{Reserved for Software}
This is the latest ROM & MCU update from the manufacturer:
Android Version: 8.0.0
Build number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.bsp.20181107.190240 test-keys
System info: APP 1024x600 2018-11-23 08:48:14
MCU Version: 2018-11-23 16:12:28 JY_(R68*)__26_C26_CAN(All)
BT Version: BLINK_8723DS_RELEASE/2018:10:08:17:05:26
DigitalAmp Version: Unknown
CAN Version: Unknown
Serial Number: 00000000
I'm not going to give the Wifi Mac address for obvious reasons.
Cold boots are pretty quick, it's usually done in half a minute. It has a rudimentary "recovery" mode which is achieved by pressing the reset button with a needle 3 times, and after a pause, a countdown is shown under the boot logo, at which point one has to insert the SD card into the right hand slot. If it identifies the ROM on the SD card as equivalent or better, it starts flashing. If it doesn't recognise it, it does apparently nothing and leaves you with a black screen until you remove the SD card and boot it up again.
I have on several occasions attempted to flash TWRP recovery image as well on the unit, with no success.
Description of operation & issues:
Ever since the latest ROM Update, I've been having issues with the WiFi: despite the dozen wifi hotspots around the neighbourhood including my phone and home wifi, the unit doesn't "see" any until I completely reboot it.
The ROM provided by the manufacturer doesn't have a proper bluetooth menu. Despite being equipped with Bluetooth 4.0, as it stands for now, there is no proper bluetooth menu like you get on your phone/tablet/etc... a bluetooth app shortcut does open this menu but the menu doesn't offer any options or work at all except for the on/off toggle.
The CPU runs hot, it is a well known issue and I'm intending to install a heat sink and fan on it.
Several other settings menu items usually found on phones are also missing.
There buttons of course are lit up but the colour options are just 7. There is no way to choose your own colour and I don't know of any app that can do it on this particular model.
So I've opened up the unit and took some pictures before i stuck on a few small heatsinks on the FYT6026 bigger metal heatsink as well as a small fan. I've not taken pictures of what I've done, but you can all suppose how it's set up. It's pretty easy. I've got more closeups of the board for whoever wants to see them, just ask.
Hey @surfer63 or @gtxaspec @xxRaiyanxxYT do you know what the connector circled in red (4 pins) is for? It was not connected to anything in my unit. The other 2 are USB (5 pins) and the one on top (2pins) is microphone.
Sorry didnt upload for some reason.
Kyle M. said:
Sorry didnt upload for some reason.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Connect those Plugs Red, Green and Blue
Wondering that myself... Could it be power for a fan?
I have the same unused plug in mine.
Any info would be appreciated
Cheers,
xxRaiyanxxYT said:
Connect those Plugs Red, Green and Blue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What? No you didn't understand. I disconnected the plugs before i took the picture to get a clearer view of the board. The 2 plugs in the Blue circle are both for USB cables that go out from behind the unit, and the green one is for the external microphone which I also use. The one I don't know about is the one in the red circle. it was not connected to anything when I opened the unit and I'd like to know what it might be useful for.
Junior_1967 said:
I have the same unused plug in mine.
Any info would be appreciated
Cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking the same thing, I was going to hook the fan up to them but I needed to measure the voltages across those pins and my car is downstairs in the basement and I don't have a proper kit to power the it up on the bench. I would've made one but I was in a hurry yesterday. I need a whole day to mess around with it properly and find out what each part does but right now I'm working through the weekends until the end of the year. Until I get some time like that, I'm trying to gather some more info about it so I won't take it out for nothing (it's a ***** to install this unit back in the car).
Kyle M. said:
I was thinking the same thing, I was going to hook the fan up to them but I needed to measure the voltages across those pins and my car is downstairs in the basement and I don't have a proper kit to power the it up on the bench. I would've made one but I was in a hurry yesterday. I need a whole day to mess around with it properly and find out what each part does but right now I'm working through the weekends until the end of the year. Until I get some time like that, I'm trying to gather some more info about it so I won't take it out for nothing (it's a ***** to install this unit back in the car).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will see what I can do.. Running my unit on the bench right now with a CPU power supply...
Might be able to test it tonight.. If not it will go to this weekend I'm afraid..
Junior_1967 said:
I will see what I can do.. Running my unit on the bench right now with a CPU power supply...
Might be able to test it tonight.. If not it will go to this weekend I'm afraid..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good stuff, that'd be great, thanks! Which unit have you got? (specs) And have you managed to change the bootloader or flash a custom rom on it? Feel free to share pics of the motherboard.
Kyle M. said:
Good stuff, that'd be great, thanks! Which unit have you got? (specs) And have you managed to change the bootloader or flash a custom rom on it? Feel free to share pics of the motherboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the JY-HOS01P4
8.8" 4GB/32GB
No Hardware button at all. Not reset hole.. nada (Will make it easier to weatherproof.. )
Will at some point put a heatsink on it.. But being single DIN the room is limited...
So far I have only have it rooted and JET installed on it.
I do not think I will mess with the bootloader/custom ROM as it does pretty much what I want out of the box.
Testing different software now.
And the unit will be installed in my HD Roadglide.
So basically the sound output will be 2 fold:
Speakers driven by an external AMP so I can shut of sound by turn the amp off thru the settings
Bluetooth comms headset connected to a bluetooth transmitter taking it's input from RCA jacks
My requirements are the following:
Launcher: CarWebGuru
Radio -> will use stock app
MP3 -> Still testing players but for now I'm happy with google play music
GPS -> Osmand+ with data on SD card
Phone-> Android Auto + Headunit Reloaded (will finish testing and probably will buy.. Do not link ZLink.. even thought it works sort of ok) At this point I'm able to dial/see the phone on the radio and hear/talk with my BT headset
That is pretty much it.. Might attempt to put a DVR at some point...
I'll take a pic tonight of the board but aside from the location of that big capacitor (Mine is beside the wall of the radio) it is pretty much the same as yours.
Junior_1967 said:
I have the JY-HOS01P4
8.8" 4GB/32GB
No Hardware button at all. Not reset hole.. nada (Will make it easier to weatherproof.. )
Will at some point put a heatsink on it.. But being single DIN the room is limited...
So far I have only have it rooted and JET installed on it.
I do not think I will mess with the bootloader/custom ROM as it does pretty much what I want out of the box.
Testing different software now.
And the unit will be installed in my HD Roadglide.
So basically the sound output will be 2 fold:
Speakers driven by an external AMP so I can shut of sound by turn the amp off thru the settings
Bluetooth comms headset connected to a bluetooth transmitter taking it's input from RCA jacks
My requirements are the following:
Launcher: CarWebGuru
Radio -> will use stock app
MP3 -> Still testing players but for now I'm happy with google play music
GPS -> Osmand+ with data on SD card
Phone-> Android Auto + Headunit Reloaded (will finish testing and probably will buy.. Do not link ZLink.. even thought it works sort of ok) At this point I'm able to dial/see the phone on the radio and hear/talk with my BT headset
That is pretty much it.. Might attempt to put a DVR at some point...
I'll take a pic tonight of the board but aside from the location of that big capacitor (Mine is beside the wall of the radio) it is pretty much the same as yours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah I see, so what they're doing is basically hooking up a different screen to the same single-din box. Have you had any issues with the wifi since the last update?
Kyle M. said:
Ah I see, so what they're doing is basically hooking up a different screen to the same single-din box. Have you had any issues with the wifi since the last update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not seen any issues.. Mind you I only have an internal network.. Still waiting for internet to be installed ^%@%#
I had to hotspot my phone for connectivity when needed but it is chewing my data!!!
I did all my downloads from work and brought the files/apk home to install.
What kind of issues are you seeing?
Which version of the latest do you have? the first 2018-11-7 or the 2nd 2018-11?
(I hate how the have they same file name.. Joying is pretty bad naming stuff...)
Hi,
I tested the header last night and got nothing. 0 power
Now, I have not had the time to play with the settings in the radio so I do not know if something would turn that on.
Cheers,
haven't tested it myself, but from my memory this red-circled connector has something to do with audio (either Ins or Outs).
Here is the picture of the inside of the single DIN unit
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnf4p64l5a1gizc/20181212_202622.jpg?dl=0
Cheers
Junior_1967 said:
Which version of the latest do you have? the first 2018-11-7 or the 2nd 2018-11?
(I hate how the have they same file name.. Joying is pretty bad naming stuff...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't realise they published the 2018-11. I downloaded the previous update, 2018-11-7. I think they published the second one after the first november update gave us issues and somehow forgot to put the full date on it. I'll try flashing that update at some point and see what happens.
Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)
jcapxda said:
Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.
@rigattoni thank you
rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
I pulled things out last night, I didn't find the RCA yellow video in I expected (there are 2 but they both seemed to be for aftermarket and are disconnected. There wasn't the obvious yellow <-> yellow rca adapters I see everyone else have with the power feed to the reverse lights. I'm assuming it's (in theory) feeding in through the primary adapter (block of plugs) going in to the back of the Android unit. I was able to account for all other connectins.
rigattoni said:
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They reset it, it keeps coming back on. My original had a light, this bezel doesn't. As I understand there is likely some resisitance that's supposed to be here ...
rigattoni said:
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will check settings. There's a "key settings" and offers 4 & 8. It's the only major configuration section I don't understand. But I think I've tried both. Will look again.
jcapxda said:
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No link, the seller should at least provide some installation instruction with the unit.
As I don´t know the unit and don´t know what has been provided with the unit itself, I am not able to help.
Your backup camera should have a video output which needs to get connected with the head unit. Where to put, needs to get from the seller. If he is not able... send this crap back.
The same for the airbag error message... If the seller is not able to give clear instruction... send the crap back.
Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.
jcapxda said:
Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know.
Did they give you a guide how to fix the airbag issue?
Just to let you know: In case of an accident, the airbags can be activated or not without control. This is a severe security issue, you should take care of.
The AMI cable just provides audio and is normally used for external audio sources like iPod, IPhone and such things. May be they use it to get the head unit speaking to your OEM amplifier. I don´t know your unit and the specs. At least Audi is not that easy with these kind of units.
Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.
jcapxda said:
Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello where did you put the splitter into?
1 goes to the original cable
1 goes to the new framepanel (without the air bag light)
and where goes the third cable?
Please help thx