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Is there any way we could use the non-BT headset while the unit is docked in the cradle? I'm so frustated why O2 decided to place the headset socket at the bottom.
Your only options would be either to use the speakerphone, or buy a Bluetooth headset.
TheGadgetGuy said:
Your only options would be either to use the speakerphone, or buy a Bluetooth headset.
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Click to collapse
Or use a mini-sync cable that doesn't cover the hole.
Hmmm... is it possible to alter the cradle to make a passage for the headset? Wouldn't it break the cradle or I might hit something that will malfunction it?
it's hard to say without taking it apart and looking
maybe it's just the connector and a joining of the power and usb cables in there
who knows if one does not try
opening it
hmm... if you take a look at the back side of cradle, there is a power connector (left from the cable) and a hole, with piece of rubber (right from the cable).
...anybody knows, what that is?? :roll:
Buzz
buzz_lightyear said:
hmm... if you take a look at the back side of cradle, there is a power connector (left from the cable) and a hole, with piece of rubber (right from the cable).
...anybody knows, what that is??
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Click to collapse
I know... but I've got good news and I've got bad news for you...
Good news - it's a blanking grommit over the place where the O2 headphones plug in, giving you full headphone functionality via the cradle.
The bad news - it appears only to be installed on the serial cradle!
I have both a serial and a USB cradle - the serial is so I can talk to the unit from Virtual PC (doesn't support USB). There was no blanking cover on the serial and the socket is visible, but I had to take the base apart on the USB to discover that it doesn't have the socket fitted.
I remember that the serial was listed as a "serial cradle with audio" when I bought it. Sadly another example of O2's poor after sales support.
THANX mtbsoft,
does it only need the connector to be installed or the serial cradle is something completely different inside, I mean from the audio output point of view, USB and serial boards inside are sure different.. )
From what I could see (this is from memory), the USB board has all the necessary tracks on it to permit the jack/connector just to be soldered on. However, I haven't opened the serial so I'm just assuming it has the same number/placing of contacts.
I'll dig out my torq screw drivers and my camera some time and post some comparitive shots.
thanks mtbsoft,
please do update me about this, regarding what electronic parts to buy and how to work it out. i really want to make use of my cradle, and if it does need some soldering or whatever, i would definitely have it done... by someone else
Hi all, after months of try&error and buying 2 (TWO!) MDAs (Wizard & Charmer) i finally found out WHY sometimes GPRS data flow stops and no incoming calls will be put throught (they land on mailbox):
It's the docking stations! Just let me explain that a little bit more: Both Wizard & Charmer will be delivered without any docking stations, so I bought two different on Ebay + one active holder from Brodit for my car.
After I put Wizard or Charmer in one of the docking station it's necessary to call 2 or 3 times until the call gets through, also in the car (Brodit), and - GPRS data flow, that means even I'm connected (2 GPRS arrows are there), stops after 2 or 3 minutes. I see that with a network monitor called Phatnet (very recommended!)
So now comes the real scurillic thing: If I use the original AC adapter from T-Mobile nothing of the above happens... GPRS data packets flow hours and hours without any breaks, and calls come through.
The docking station definitly loads the devices, but it takes longer. So here's my conclusion: The AC Adapters and the car adapter give to little current for the radio part in the devices - sounds strange, but I have no other ideas.
So now what? Try yourself please, anyone who owns Wizard or Charmer and some other AC adapters than the originals should tell here - it's easy, just put the devices in, surf a little bit for just a couple of minutes and you'll see surfing stops. It's not dependend of the loading status (orange or green led).
I tried different Rom updates, different devices and now it seems that power is the reason, really annoying. Tell us your experience!
Yours B.
Here are the links of the 2 docking stations:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Dockingstation-f...861020033QQcategoryZ15396QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.de/Dockingstation-f...ryZ70769QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
some additional research
Well there's some additional information I researched:
When connecting the device to the original AC adaptor it does NOT switch on the display, when connecting to the cradle it does. So the pinout of the connector must be different and Wizard/Charmer maybe (half way) believes that it has been connected to USB of a PC, but not in a defined state. Remember that my docking station IS NOT connected to a PC, it's only there for power.
Somebody maybe knows the pinout of the delivered USB sync cable and the AC adaptor?
Yours B.
Having previously owned a IIs and having a standard usb cradle in my car run from a usb connectored "cigarette lighter adapter", I'm used to using my devices as a portable "car stereo". I even wired it up to replace my old crap car stereo, using a small "cheap boy-racer style" £30 stereo power amp under the dash. This has been great for the last year. I get in the car, dock the xda IIs into the cradle, plug in the headphone socket which is wired into the amp and hey presto, music - and tom tom prompts through the car speakers.
Recently I've been eyeing up the xda exec(JasJar/Universal) and after getting a second hand colleague to buy my IIis, decided to get the new device. Obviously the shorter battery life is a bit of a shock compared to my old one, but I was pleasantly suprised that
1) The audio output seems a better quality
2) The new device no longer needed a custom USB cradle plinth or gooseneck holder, ... I could place the "open clam" in the recess in my instrument panel, to the right of my speedo. Basically sitting just behind the steering wheel, which also solves the night-time reflection issues of a bright display.
Just one problem, I discovered that the USB sync cable supplied with the new device doesnt seem to enable charging to the exec when I plugged it into the 12Volt to USB adapter that worked with the XDA IIs that I wired into my dashboard.
So I decided to buy a new car power adapter for the new Exec, egged on by installing the great "mort player" which has an ideal "large button" interface on a black background which is ideal for use in the car.... and it doesnt forget the playlist like media player 10 seems to do each time you run it...
However, When the car power adapter arrived today, (from expansys)
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=125511
To my dismay it is very noisy! the audio output to my amp sounds great with just the headphone output to my mini under dash amplifier, but only on battery power. But when the adapter is supplying power, the audio output becomes "crackly" Any electonics boffins have any suggestions to remove the "noise" with capacitors, if so what type and where should I put them, on the audio, or inline with the cigarette power adapter dc input somewhere, or should I just send it back and try and source a better quality adapter?
Expansys also do 2 other models -
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=125969
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=125970
Does anyone know if these are as noisy as the other one? Does anyone else have a similar setup?
Thanks in advance
Derek
you have a ground loop. in america, we use negative as the ground, so be carefull with what I'm telling you (posative is ground in some countries).
What you need to do is run the amp and cigarette lighter off the same ground(s) and possibly the same feeds (supply voltage). Make sure you fuse the lines appropriately, or you might fry something.
I would suggest installing a secondary cigarett lighter outlet somewhere convenient (so you don't cross any other circuts in your car, and burn stuff out), and run it off the same points that your amplifier gets it's power. Fuse the new outlet with the appropriate fuse (should be 5 or 10 amps), and give your new setup a whirl. It's a cheap alternative for you to try (should be about $10 or 8 euro?)
Good luck, and remember, NOT MY FAULT WHAT YOU DO> TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!
I agree with him ^
JAmes
Strangely - today the noise is gone... hmm... very strange...
perhaps it was a solar flare, or another explosion at hemel
or more likely - perhaps there was a loose connection somewhere!
Thanks for all the advice guys, I will certainly make sure I avoid any ground loops and ground the audio on the same physical connection as the car earth. I'll check this at the weekend when I have some daylight to work in!. I'll do this when wiring the new adapter in properly - I can't bear it hanging out of the lighter socket with the near the indicator stalk!
I can say the Exec is great device though... Its a far better solution for car audio - and no leaving an expensive hifi in the car to be stolen.
Hopefully someone else is inspired by this post to also use the device in this way. If you want plenty of storage for a full install of the tomtom uk map and loads of music, you'll be interested to hear that you can actually get a 2 gig card now from ebuyer for about £60!
http://www.ebuyer.com/customer/prod...vd19wcm9kdWN0X292ZXJ2aWV3&product_uid=103013
Cheers
Derek
This is very valuable info
interestingfellow said:
you have a ground loop. in america, we use negative as the ground, so be carefull with what I'm telling you (posative is ground in some countries).
What you need to do is run the amp and cigarette lighter off the same ground(s) and possibly the same feeds (supply voltage). Make sure you fuse the lines appropriately, or you might fry something.
I would suggest installing a secondary cigarett lighter outlet somewhere convenient (so you don't cross any other circuts in your car, and burn stuff out), and run it off the same points that your amplifier gets it's power. Fuse the new outlet with the appropriate fuse (should be 5 or 10 amps), and give your new setup a whirl. It's a cheap alternative for you to try (should be about $10 or 8 euro?)
Good luck, and remember, NOT MY FAULT WHAT YOU DO> TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)
I have a a USB mini extension lead, so I'm trying to plug in a 3-to-1 adapter to it. So male USB mini, the a-symetrical type (flat one side) to a female USB mini, the symetrical type (wings on both sides). Obviously this doesn't fit!
So is there a USB Mini (female a-symetrical) to USB mini (male symetrical) adapter?
Or could someone at least tell me their proper names so I can google it?
What are you trying to achieve? If it is to increase the cable length between the 3in1 and the Kaiser, I think you would need an ExtUSB patch lead with all 11 pins wired to retain the functionality of the 3in1. I don't know if these leads even exist.
The Asymetrical female socket, like the one on the base of the Kaiser, is double sided on the internal plastic "island" and has 5 contacts on one side and 6 contacts on the other.
The power and data are on the top 5 connectors.
The audio in/out & talk/end are on the bottom 6 connectors.
This is known as ExtUSB and is peculiar to HTC devices.
The Symetrical plug/socket is standard mini USB and will only ever have power and data connections. The mini USB plug only connects to the top 5 connectors in an ExtUSB socket.
Ouch, my dreams of the perfect in-car system dashed! Thanks wizzard that's really explained it very well.
The objective is to have a nice looking car install with only one wire leading to the Kaiser, and the 3-in-one hidden. So ideally:
Power \/
Audio > 3-in-one >> USB extension >> Kaiser
Hands free /\
It was hard enough finding the mini USB extension, so as you say an ExtUSB extension lead may not even exist
I purchased this adaptor for less than £10 from ebay. It ticks all the boxes for me and is the most discrete adaptor I could find. The 3in1 adaptors like this one dont come with a mic so wont work as a hands free without additional adaptors.
My intention is to have the plug fixed to a Brodit mount. The cable is no thicker than headphone cable. This 90cm cable will route to behind the steering wheel on the cowling. The adaptor is flat and low profile with the answer/hang up button on the top. Easily pressed through the steering wheel spokes. The audio 3.5mm and mini USB leads plug in at right angles to each other but will easily route out of site, behind the dash to USB car charger and 3.5mm MP3 In socket on the head unit.
It all works as expected, and even at Motorway speeds callers can hear me clearly. Voice Command works fine, TomTom and Media Player sound great. My only problem is alternator whine when charging, which I think is just an earthing problem. When I get it all properly finished I will post some photos.
After work, wife, kids etc. have finished with me.
Thanks Wizzard. Not a bad solution, and the best so far without the existence of an ExtUSB extension lead.
My only problem with it is that (I assume) it forces the kaiser into handfree mode even when all I was to do is charge and listen to music from the 3.5mm connection.
Again, I am assuming here, but I thought the second adapter you cite would only initiate hands free when I plug in the hands free into its port. I could be wrong on that one though.
Perhaps my issue is a small price to pay for 8gbs of music in the car
foaf said:
I thought the second adapter you cite would only initiate hands free when I plug in the hands free into its port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont have the bulky 3in1 to test, sorry. For me when listening to music and TomTom the audio mutes when I take a call and then resumes seamlessly on hang up without needing to physically touch the Kaiser. I only need to touch the Kaiser to press the Voice Command key once to launch programs and initiate calls.
wizzzard said:
I purchased this adaptor for less than £10 from ebay. It ticks all the boxes for me and is the most discrete adaptor I could find. The 3in1 adaptors like this one dont come with a mic so wont work as a hands free without additional adaptors.
My intention is to have the plug fixed to a Brodit mount. The cable is no thicker than headphone cable. This 90cm cable will route to behind the steering wheel on the cowling. The adaptor is flat and low profile with the answer/hang up button on the top. Easily pressed through the steering wheel spokes. The audio 3.5mm and mini USB leads plug in at right angles to each other but will easily route out of site, behind the dash to USB car charger and 3.5mm MP3 In socket on the head unit.
It all works as expected, and even at Motorway speeds callers can hear me clearly. Voice Command works fine, TomTom and Media Player sound great. My only problem is alternator whine when charging, which I think is just an earthing problem. When I get it all properly finished I will post some photos.
After work, wife, kids etc. have finished with me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
Unfortunately the link to the item you have is broken...
I'm trying exactly what you wanna do, I bought this extension.
Is this the same of you?
It works, but I have annoying noise on audio when it's connected to the USB power jacket.
How to fix this?
Thanks a lot.
Okay so I'm starting to get fed up with this phone and my head unit...
My head unit (there are no settings to change this) automatically defaults to the USB connection, when a USB device has been plugged in (in this case my cell phone to charge)
I use Bluetooth audio streaming so I have to constantly switch back to bluetooth mode which really isn't a big deal...there's just a couple problems
If I do NOT mount the cell phone for SD card access...my head unit will constantly try to read it, and after about 20 seconds, it will reset the connection with the phone...and I will end up back on USB mode on the headunit
To solve this I am using Auto-mount...
BUT if I use auto-mount, then my cached stations on Slacker aren't available...and so I have to turn off USB storage... (If USB storage is turned on and THEN off...the headunit will not default to USB again...it will leave the connection alone)
You can imagine my frustration when getting in and out of the car
Seems to me the simplest way to fix this would be to disable the USB data portion all together based on what my cell phone is connected to.
ex. If I plug the phone to my computer, I get USB storage
If I plug the phone to my headunit, it will only charge the phone
IS there a way to do that???
You could find a USB cable that only has the power wires (one came with a bluetooth headset I bought), make your own cable (cut the data line), or use something like the iPhone USB Charging Adapter ThinkGeek sells (I do not know if it would stop the car from seeing the phone)