Kaiser's Stock Battery, Ground Plane? - Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III Accessories

I wanted to add a comment about the Kaiser's battery. It's the first lithium phone battery that I've seen with a ground plane, the inside face of the pack is a metal plate. The plastic film "case" around the battery has this metal plate exposed at all 4 corners to make contact with mating gold fingers in the battery box, all around the battery. I bring this up because there are always cheap batteries available for these phones and I would beware of one without this extra shielding, it may affect performance or just radiate more stray R/F?
Also it's the same capacity as Hermes but has 4 contacts vs Hermes 6 and they are in different locations. You'd think they could work on a "standardized" battery for phones. I found that the Kaiser's USB charge jack is in the same location as the Hermes and that I am able to place it onto the charge cradle that I currently have. Unfortunately the 2nd battery charge bay is useless, but this will work until the next generation of accys and cases come out.

I didn't know batteries generated RF. WiFi sure, and bluetooth yes, but a battery?

No, batteries don't normally radiate, burn maybe, but not radiate. I'm thinking that since it's the inner face of the battery, that it's forming a shield for the back of the phone's electronics.

It might be an antenna for something as well !

Yes, sounds like it could be a ground plane for an antenna. GPS perhaps? Getting my HTC unlocked tytnII tomorrow, will look into it.

1600 mAh replacement battery
RemE said:
I wanted to add a comment about the Kaiser's battery. It's the first lithium phone battery that I've seen with a ground plane, the inside face of the pack is a metal plate. The plastic film "case" around the battery has this metal plate exposed at all 4 corners to make contact with mating gold fingers in the battery box, all around the battery. I bring this up because there are always cheap batteries available for these phones and I would beware of one without this extra shielding, it may affect performance or just radiate more stray R/F? . . .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just received a battery I ordered from http://http://stores.ebay.com/Acces...harger_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ9QQftidZ2QQtZkm.
It does not have the exposed metal corners of the original battery. It powers up the phone fine, but now I'm worried that I may cause a problem.
Would like to know the purpose of the metal contacts, and how important it is to stay with the exact match battery.

My educated guess is that it's a radio interference shield, probably required for certification. I'm sure of one thing, they didn't do this for fun, it was required.
Like most PC hardware, they are specified as Class B/ Class C etc. relating to radiated interference for home use vs commercial use (higher levels allowed). Once purchased, we merrily change bits and pieces, possibly voiding the original certification, but with little if any noticible consequence.
I think this is similar, unless someone notes that there is poor performance in one of the radios, like reduced sensivity from the GPS etc. we won't know.

RemE said:
My educated guess is that it's a radio interference shield, probably required for certification. I'm sure of one thing, they didn't do this for fun, it was required.
Like most PC hardware, they are specified as Class B/ Class C etc. relating to radiated interference for home use vs commercial use (higher levels allowed). Once purchased, we merrily change bits and pieces, possibly voiding the original certification, but with little if any noticible consequence.
I think this is similar, unless someone notes that there is poor performance in one of the radios, like reduced sensivity from the GPS etc. we won't know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is required then should we not see it on other pda batteries? is there a plate on the back of the battery for the 8525?

Not necessarily, this is the first shield plate that I've seen on any phone, the fact that it's there with matching contacts in the 4 corners of the Kaiser's battery box means that on THIS phone, this was designed in. We just don't know the engineering reason,but there is one.

I think this is used as either some kind of antenna or for some kind of isolating purpose. No doubt about that. I just purchased the following battery:
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/produ...rchphrase=HTC%20P4550%20battery%20(1600%20mAh)
This battery does not have the plate in the back like the original battery. By the way I recommend this battery, so far it works great. Same size as OEM and no need for new cover. Made in Honk Kong and ships from there, comes with 1 year warranty.
One interesting thing that I do notice using this new battery is that it appears that my GPS reception has improved. With the original battery I do not get reception indoors and now I do (although not always). I believe I can confirm this as well. I was never able to get any GPS reception anywhere indoors before (meaning inside of a home).
RemE said:
I wanted to add a comment about the Kaiser's battery. It's the first lithium phone battery that I've seen with a ground plane, the inside face of the pack is a metal plate. The plastic film "case" around the battery has this metal plate exposed at all 4 corners to make contact with mating gold fingers in the battery box, all around the battery. I bring this up because there are always cheap batteries available for these phones and I would beware of one without this extra shielding, it may affect performance or just radiate more stray R/F?
Also it's the same capacity as Hermes but has 4 contacts vs Hermes 6 and they are in different locations. You'd think they could work on a "standardized" battery for phones. I found that the Kaiser's USB charge jack is in the same location as the Hermes and that I am able to place it onto the charge cradle that I currently have. Unfortunately the 2nd battery charge bay is useless, but this will work until the next generation of accys and cases come out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

How is ther performance of this battery? Any better or a lot worse then the original battery? I'm really finding it hard to find charging point everywhere i go cos the original battery just cannot last the whole day
c6638746 said:
I think this is used as either some kind of antenna or for some kind of isolating purpose. No doubt about that. I just purchased the following battery:
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/produ...rchphrase=HTC%20P4550%20battery%20(1600%20mAh)
This battery does not have the plate in the back like the original battery. By the way I recommend this battery, so far it works great. Same size as OEM and no need for new cover. Made in Honk Kong and ships from there, comes with 1 year warranty.
One interesting thing that I do notice using this new battery is that it appears that my GPS reception has improved. With the original battery I do not get reception indoors and now I do (although not always). I believe I can confirm this as well. I was never able to get any GPS reception anywhere indoors before (meaning inside of a home).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

c6638746 said:
I think this is used as either some kind of antenna or for some kind of isolating purpose. No doubt about that. I just purchased the following battery:
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/produ...rchphrase=HTC%20P4550%20battery%20(1600%20mAh)
This battery does not have the plate in the back like the original battery. By the way I recommend this battery, so far it works great. Same size as OEM and no need for new cover. Made in Honk Kong and ships from there, comes with 1 year warranty.
One interesting thing that I do notice using this new battery is that it appears that my GPS reception has improved. With the original battery I do not get reception indoors and now I do (although not always). I believe I can confirm this as well. I was never able to get any GPS reception anywhere indoors before (meaning inside of a home).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YA i like to know how much more does this last than the org battery
1 more hr or more ?
thankyou

Related

How to change RTC battery ?

Each time when replacing battery date and time settings on my wizard return to default settings.
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Watchman said:
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new. Every time when I remove battery, I must set my clock and date again and again.
RTC Battery
nikolica said:
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Wizard is about two years old and I have had not noticed it happening before .
I plan to open housing soon to look for such battery.
RE
If You need help for opening You're wizard look this article
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
you can't, really.
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. this retains enough charge to keep the RTC time right, and they wear out. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
Backup Battery in Wizard plus other devices
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
no one uses a capacitor for saving data(even time and date) except for desktop RAM but that's just cause it gets powered up all the time by the PS.
of course a capacitor is used for short-time memory.. but it's not more than 2-3 minutes. the only way you'd be able to keep it for a long term is to have a XuF capacitor with a small battery..
these batteries are known to die frequently due to voltage shocks and extra current. the phone itself has a safety mechanism in which if you connect it to different voltage sources, as long as they're in a thin range of voltages, will manage to charge.. but some of the inner mechanisms (such as that capacitor).. are burnt during charging.
Nandaly said:
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The service manual speaks about a GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V (which isn't a normal capacitor) but mine looked like a small battery.
Mine was looking green because of some oxide on it. (caused by rainy jackets I thihk)
Is it really possible that the service manual is wrong? I thought there are also rechargable button cells...do you know for sure a regular lithium cell is ok?
(oh, my device is a prophet)
THIS IS A HIGH CAPACITY CAPACITOR also called super capacitor.
looking at what is printed GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V
F=Farad (capacitance values are normally specified in nano, micro, milli farads etc
I tried soldering on a broken USB connector in a wizard once but messed it all up, it seems they use some RoHS tin which makes it very difficult to make clean connections.
No! Not A Capacitor! Yes A Battery!
Folks,
This is indeed a battery in the HTC Wizard and NOT A CAPACITOR. A 0.07F capacitor would be physically several times larger than the phone itself.
So regardless of what is "printed" in the service manual, this is a small magnesium lithium ion rechargeable battery.
I have changed on 2 HTC Wizards (branded ATT Cingular 8125).
What I took out was exact identical to what I purchsed from Digikey (on-line as posted in my earlier comment)(and yes, the soldering is/was a tad bit difficult - if you do not know what you are doing).
Signed (Nandaly), B.A.Sc., P.Eng.

high capacity battery?? what vendor? what model? what capacity?

Hi everybody.
plz someone can help me to find a good battery in ebay for my kaiser?
I read about some batteries with high mA capacity but the same performance than the original battery, and some vendors and very bad quality batteries.
so I'm a little bit confused, I want a battery with better performance than the original, but with the same size (of preference) or not too big.
if someone can tell me about a good vendor and his best battery model I would be been thankful with him
PS: plz don't burn me by open this topic so vitiated.
Ps2: sorry about my english
I'm using this battery which is technically twice the capacity here:
http://www.superetrader.co.uk/htc-t...lacement-extended-battery-2700mah-p-3052.html
It comes with a new back casing because as you would expect it is literally twice the width of the original battery so it sticks out at the back. I haven't had any problem with the quality of the battery, but the casing does feel a little bit cheaper than the original.
This one comes with 12 months warranty, which you are unlikely to get on Ebay so bare that in mind when you do your purchase.
R
rfarnell said:
I'm using this battery which is technically twice the capacity here:
http://www.superetrader.co.uk/htc-t...lacement-extended-battery-2700mah-p-3052.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technically, yes...but in normal use, does it actually work? Does the battery work longer?
ive used an incredibly similar style of battery for an older htc phone. I used a battery with twice the mah but didnt quite get twice the life. dont get me wrong, did the job at increasing the life pretty well and u get used to it sticking out a bit on the back
ps, if yer using a tight carry case then it may not fit in with an upgraded battery
hknivers said:
Technically, yes...but in normal use, does it actually work? Does the battery work longer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that is exactly my question. in this case, which battery is better in weight/size/mAh/performance?
Im using the 1600 mah from www.seidio.com. Barely adds any weight compaired to OEM. Batt life for me is extended about 4-5 hrs. On OEM, with normal usage, I am down to 30% by 10pm (I charge overnight 12am-5am). With the 1600, I am about 45% at 10pm.
All my products from Seidio have been solid. I would stray away from batteries bought from ebay. I got lame ones several times when buying batts for other phones, cameras and devices.
I forgot to add that the 1600 does not need the extended back cover. It is the same dimensions of the OEM. Also the 1600's weight is, if anything less then the OEM. The metal bars/frame on the OEM battery is not there on the 1600. Some say that the metal bars are for reception. So far I have not noticed any reception decrease nor interference difference.
transportguy said:
All my products from Seidio have been solid. I would stray away from batteries bought from ebay. I got lame ones several times when buying batts for other phones, cameras and devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I live in Chile (southamerica) in the ass of the world.
the only easy-fast way to buy something is ebay
I am so lucky I guess, I never had a problem buying this way always looking the vendor feedback/reputation.
thanks by the advice
I think the best battery is that http://shop.eten.hu/mugen-power-300...5-cingular-with-battery-door-black-p-207.html
breakx said:
I think the best battery is that http://shop.eten.hu/mugen-power-300...5-cingular-with-battery-door-black-p-207.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why do you think that? Have you compared it to the other extended batteries (including the cheap ones on eBay)? As far as I can see, they're all pretty much the same.
As far as I understand, all the extended batteries have the problem where the Kaiser incorrectly reports the capacity and shuts off when they're half full.
Have you seen this post? http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=2097942&postcount=48
FWIW:
We have few older htc phones at home (ipaqs, tytn1, tytn2).
I bought extended batteries for ipaqs in the past - original from HP's store, and 2600mAh and 2400mAh "generics" from ebay.
Contrary to what I've been "warned" by some people, there was no problems whatsoever with any of the "generic" batteries - they didn't explode didn't damage my phones, nor didn't malfunction prematurely either.
The 2600mAh made in China lasted me 1yr 3mths before it started to act up, the 2400mAh Taiwan-make still works (its been 1yr 5mths now) - and both are no-brand cheap batteries from ebay, and the HP's expensive extended batt (IIRC it is mere 1800mAh only) still works too (almost 2yrs now).
The only problem I had with the extended batteries were their replacement back covers.
Except for HP's original one (of course) which came with 2 extra covers, the "generics" came with really shoddy and crappy covers, the China-make one was the worst: it was slightly out-of-specs, and it always felt somewhat loose (no, it never felt off nor unlatched itself but it had this "loose" feeling always, you could physically feel it moving a bit up and down when holding the phone, not much - maybe half a millimeter - but it was there).
The other Taiwan make battery's cover was perfect in its dimensions (no "loose" feeling) but then its color was few shades off of the original color... not really important detail (specially when you pay 3x less than for the "original") but I thought I should mention it too.
I have just ordered Mugen extended battery for my TyTN II.
When it arrives - and I won't forget - I'll post here about it.
****, I am really confused now
thanks justdave by the advise.
just get a ebay cheapo
http://cgi.ebay.com/EXTENDED-LIFE-B...ryZ20336QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
this is what I ordered. from this seller. battery cover fits perfectly. no wiggle. battery lasts all day without worry with heavy usage. talk, email push, web, im on it all day.
It does not report the battery meters correctly as with all extended batteries as noted. but this battery at 23 bucks shipped is the so much cheaper and I am betting the exact same cells as a seidio or muggen battery. they are all made in china anyways.
An alternative may be an external USB power pack. I use one of these and top up when my battery is going low. Saves the hassle of a larger phone, and all i need is a standard mini usb cable
http://www.proporta.com/F02/PPF02P05.php?t_id=2725&t_mode=des
I am also using the seidio extended life 1600ma battery, i used to charge my phone every night because id be down to like 20% after a day of use, now with the 1600 i go 2 days of use and charge it the 2nd night almost always. Also you retain the original battery cover. I dont know about you guys but this phone is dookie enough as is, i dont need a big battery that requires a new cover and makes my phone another 1/4 inch thicker. seidios a good buy imo, little pricey but ive been happy with its performance.
Extended Batteries
I have an Electrospan by Boxwave @ 2600mah and a Mugen 3000mah. Yes, I think the Mugen might be a little better, but what is interesting is the batteries are exactly the same size although the back covers are different. They do make the device thicker, but it still fits in most horizontal leather cases I have tried. Boxwave also sells an external battery pack that takes 4 AA batteries. The key is to minimize battery drain in the first place. If your data like connects to 3G, battery life goes away quickly vs. edge or GPRS. You can restrict this by using Bandswitch # www.commmgrpro.com (10 euros). Voice calls, screen brightness and push email can also contribute significantly to drain.

Seidio 3200mah vs Mugen 3000mah

Hi everybody,
I need an extended battery, and these are the only two that seem to fit the bill. I have searched the net extensively, and they seem to be very similar units. Please feel free to correct me on this.
My main question is, do either of the battery doors that ship with these units provide cover for the camera lens the way the stock battery door does? I would like to purchase a battery that comes with battery door protection for the camera. If neither of them do I may need to do some modding.
I look forward to your input, suggestions, and perhaps a bit of experience positive or negative that you've had with either unit. Thanks guys.
I have a mugen 3000mah for 2-3 months and works very nice for me and I have no problems related by other users... but many users have different problems with this battery (charging/discharging, reporting the battery usage etc.) ...see this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=358348&page=5 especially post #48 page 5
I have the Seido 3200 battery for about a month. It has a nice rubberized extended back that it comes with. The only real issue is the way that the PDA does not accurately report the amount of charge it has. I can run it all the way down off of a full charge (Charged until the light goes green), pull it out of the phone and then put it back in. It will then show about 40-50 percent charge still remaining. So you get the power, but with the inconvienence of having to pull the battery out. Not to mention that it is substantially thicker than the original. There is a thread somewhere in this forum about this problem, and that it happens with any non-oem battery. I haven't decided if it's better this way, or to just charge the oem battery more frequently.
Yeah the incorrect readings are a pain I would guess. I have not gotten an extended battery for my Tilt yet.
Another issue I am worried about is the back cover. I had a Tmobile Wing with extended battery and noticed that the cover clips broke and the cover was loose and it made it a pain in the rear. Are there any issues with this on the Tilt/Kaiser? I would hate to get an extended battery and it ended up breaking the support clips on the phone that hold the cover in place. I know the clips on the Kaiser are much better than the cheap ones the wing had.
Well, the back cover on the Seido 3200 is much thicker and sturdier than the one I had for my 8525. And it is the same depth all the way across which makes it much nicer to hold landscape, when you are typing. It seems pretty sturdy, and the clips lock in place well. Maybe it's because the shape is a uniform depth all the way across. All in all, I like the back and the battery performance. With the exception of the incorrect battery meter, and having to pop it out and reinstall it to get the full charge out of it. Whether the clips will hold up with constantly removing the back to get at the battery, only time will tell. I have it about a month.
I order my Seidio 3200 today for my lovely tricked out Tilt and it will be here Friday. I will let you know if it sucks or not on Saturday or Sunday.
I said I would check back in.
The back is thicker, to be expected. I did not expect the cover to be so easy to knock off. It comes off too easy. Also, to find a proper phone case is a real challenge. It is a real challenge. I am glad I have it because the capacity is great but it is too annoying. I will keep it but will only use it when I must. As mentioned by some one else, when the battery gets low, like 40%, just remove it and reinstall it. The % jumps up to 70 or 80%.
The two of the support clips broke off on mine a while ago. They're EXTREMELY flimsy! After that, it wants to come right off the phone at the slightest brush against it. To date, there hasn't been any company that has made a decent case that accommodates this extended battery. I guess we're too small of a minority to matter?
Does anyone know of any type of "fix" other than removing the larger batteries on the Tilt/Kaiser to get it to recognize the larger batteries?

Battery replacement, is it worth it and can you fit a larger one inside?

Hi everyone,
I have had my Nexus 4 for over a year and have noticed that the battery just doesn't last as long as it used to. So I ask, those who have replaced it, is it worth it and do you see a difference? Also, can you fit a larger battery inside with the glass back still intact? Like maybe a 2500 size instead of the stock 2100?
It's not worth it until you rule out other causes of the battery draining. Software is the problem 99 times out of 100. You should only ever replace the battery with an original one.
22sl22 said:
Hi everyone,
I have had my Nexus 4 for over a year and have noticed that the battery just doesn't last as long as it used to. So I ask, those who have replaced it, is it worth it and do you see a difference? Also, can you fit a larger battery inside with the glass back still intact? Like maybe a 2500 size instead of the stock 2100?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After about 500 cycles, a lithium rechargeable battery will have lost upwards of 20% of its original capacity. If you charge more than once a day, you could have reached that point by now. A new battery is about $20 off eBay. I can't comment on the difference it actually makes because I got my Nexus 4 with a broken screen and replaced the screen and battery at the same time.
You can also extend your battery life by flashing a custom kernel like HellsCore (which is slightly undervolted) and play around with underclocking, undervolting, different governors, and running on fewer cores. For example, I've kept mine at a dual core 1.2GHz with intellidemand governor (CM11), and it still runs smoothly most of the time, with only the occasional hint of stutter. And if you want to play a game or something, just crank everything back up. And of course there's the obvious battery-saving methods, like turning screen brightness down, disabling GPS/wi-fi, synching less often, and limiting data to 3G instead of 4G. Plus the less obvious methods like Greenify and/or Tasker.
To my knowledge, there's no higher capacity batteries, or even external battery cases for the Nexus 4.
Planterz said:
After about 500 cycles, a lithium rechargeable battery will have lost upwards of 20% of its original capacity. If you charge more than once a day, you could have reached that point by now. A new battery is about $20 off eBay. I can't comment on the difference it actually makes because I got my Nexus 4 with a broken screen and replaced the screen and battery at the same time.
You can also extend your battery life by flashing a custom kernel like HellsCore (which is slightly undervolted) and play around with underclocking, undervolting, different governors, and running on fewer cores. For example, I've kept mine at a dual core 1.2GHz with intellidemand governor (CM11), and it still runs smoothly most of the time, with only the occasional hint of stutter. And if you want to play a game or something, just crank everything back up. And of course there's the obvious battery-saving methods, like turning screen brightness down, disabling GPS/wi-fi, synching less often, and limiting data to 3G instead of 4G. Plus the less obvious methods like Greenify and/or Tasker.
To my knowledge, there's no higher capacity batteries, or even external battery cases for the Nexus 4.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DrFredPhD said:
It's not worth it until you rule out other causes of the battery draining. Software is the problem 99 times out of 100. You should only ever replace the battery with an original one.
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Thanks for the replies.
I've tried software tweaks, kernel tweaks, everything, greenify all things in that sorts, different kernel profiles etc. It makes a difference but still not as good as it used to be. I might as well try replacing it, I can always put the old battery back in if I want, not that hard to change. There's a Galaxy S3 battery, I think its the same size, not sure with a higher capacity, same size, same voltage etc I could go for that if I wanted to :good:
Sent from my Nexus 4
22sl22 said:
There's a Galaxy S3 battery, I think its the same size, not sure with a higher capacity, same size, same voltage etc I could go for that if I wanted to :good:
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Have you seen what the N4's battery and connector looks like? That ain't gonna work. It won't fit, for one thing. Wrong shape, and the N4 battery is pretty slim because it doesn't have a stiff protective covering (it's actually kinda flexible - be careful prying it off the adhesive) and even if you found a battery that did fit, you'd have to rig up some sort of splice for the connector, which would probably take up more space, defeating the purpose of finding a higher capacity battery.
I did find a couple battery cases. There's the Mugen 4500mAh, but it's both freaking huge and freaking expensive (nearly 1" thick, $90), and the ZeroLemon, but it's also freaking huge, only has a (removable) 2200mAh battery, and I can't find one anywhere actually for sale.
Planterz said:
Have you seen what the N4's battery and connector looks like? That ain't gonna work. It won't fit, for one thing. Wrong shape, and the N4 battery is pretty slim because it doesn't have a stiff protective covering (it's actually kinda flexible - be careful prying it off the adhesive) and even if you found a battery that did fit, you'd have to rig up some sort of splice for the connector, which would probably take up more space, defeating the purpose of finding a higher capacity battery.
I did find a couple battery cases. There's the Mugen 4500mAh, but it's both freaking huge and freaking expensive (nearly 1" thick, $90), and the ZeroLemon, but it's also freaking huge, only has a (removable) 2200mAh battery, and I can't find one anywhere actually for sale.
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Yeah I've seen all the cases already. Too big. I don't mind doing surgery on the battery to make it work but only if I can find a higher capacity one that's gonna fit I'll consider it.
Sent from my Nexus 4
22sl22 said:
Yeah I've seen all the cases already. Too big. I don't mind doing surgery on the battery to make it work but only if I can find a higher capacity one that's gonna fit I'll consider it.
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I've thought about trying getting a new back cover (minus the glass), cutting a chunk out of it, and rigging up a larger capacity battery. It's the connector that stops me (that, and my lack of knowledge and tools to do so).
Planterz said:
I've thought about trying getting a new back cover (minus the glass), cutting a chunk out of it, and rigging up a larger capacity battery. It's the connector that stops me (that, and my lack of knowledge and tools to do so).
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Just do this. This is where I got the surgery idea. Bit complex but it seems like its worth it :good:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-4/general/4200mah-nexus-4-internal-battery-t2239829
Sent from my Nexus 4
There is no way you're going to put an s3 battery into a nexus 4 and have good results, please put any notion of this out of your head now, it's pretty absurd. Also you may struggle to use your original battery after replacement, a lot of people damage it during removal.
DrFredPhD said:
There is no way you're going to put an s3 battery into a nexus 4 and have good results, please put any notion of this out of your head now, it's pretty absurd. Also you may struggle to use your original battery after replacement, a lot of people damage it during removal.
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Look at the above thread, its possible and doable, not absurd.
I'll be careful when taking it out, its easier with a hair dryer because of the adhesive under the battery
Sent from my Nexus 4
Anyone who did it is an absolute idiot, but whatever, melt your phone and burn your face off if you want. Notice how there are no follow up posts from anyone even a month down the line in that thread, I think they all died (but seriously, their battery is ****ed now and they're too embarrassed to post anything)
But here's some videos of lithium batteries exploding from incorrect charging
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VswaFOrVM6I
Also the fact you want to use a samsung battery has me even more concerned
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...HV0QXy24CoCQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1366&bih=643
http://www.androidpolice.com/2013/0...-burn-from-a-galaxy-s3-samsungs-off-the-hook/ (This girl used a fake s3 battery, in an actual s3. You're gonna put a fake s3 battery in a Nexus 4?!?!?!)
I agree with what DrFredPhD said, LIB are very dangerous if tampered with or altered physically.
If you're really having drastic differences in battery life then you're supposes to then I would suggest you replace your N4 battery with an original one itself, don't go for any other options
stazi34 said:
I agree with what DrFredPhD said, LIB are very dangerous if tampered with or altered physically.
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Yeah, running/charging multiple lithium batteries typically isn't a good idea. But the videos that DrFredPhD posted aren't what you'll get with a cell phone battery.
Li-ion and Li-po batteries in commercial devices have built-in circuitry to prevent overcharging, overdischarging, reverse polarity, and short circuits. If you short it, the circuitry kicks in and kills everything. Putting it back in the device/charger resets the kill switch. Same if the charge gets too high, or the discharge gets to low. Circuity switches the battery off, and prevents overcharging and runaway discharging.
Those videos show batteries that don't have that circuitry. Either it was removed, or they're cells used by hobbiests and were purchased unprotected. Unprotected cells are available for hobbiests (R/C stuff, high-powered flashlights, etc) and some use them because the circuitry in protected cells leeches a bit of your juice. In an R/C car, that could mean a few more seconds and one more completed lap, in an R/C plane or helicopter, a few more seconds of air time before you crash. But there are obvious dangers.
Those dangers don't exist with commercial protected batteries. Well, they do, but that's when you buy a cheap knock-off from China, or the cell is defective, like those Sony and Dell laptops that were catching fire several years ago.
But even with protected commercial batteries, problems can occur (just not explosively dangerous ones). If the cells are mismatched in capacity, or one has a higher charge than the other, the higher capacity one will try to charge the other one, and the battery life of both will suffer, plus since they're also trying to power the device or receive a charge, they'll get really hot and can be damaged. Running identical cells is one thing. Charging should be done separately so that they start off the same. It's not the same as with a laptop or electric car, because they have additional circuitry to make things safe. It's also not the same as using a battery bank to power/charge your device, because effectively, that's just the same as plugging into a USB jack.
Battery Monitor Widget Pro is reporting around 1700mAh or less to me now so I'm wondering if my battery also needs to be replaced... Happy to use quality OEM but can it be done myself or should I pay someone?
DroidBois said:
Battery Monitor Widget Pro is reporting around 1700mAh or less to me now so I'm wondering if my battery also needs to be replaced... Happy to use quality OEM but can it be done myself or should I pay someone?
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You can replace it yourself. You'll need a T5 TORX driver for the screws at the bottom of the phone, and then something thin to pry the halves apart, preferably plastic so you don't damage your phone's body. It helps to heat it up with a hairdryer to soften the glue.
As for that app, I don't know if I trust it.

XDA Exec battery connections for adapting different packs

Hi everybody.
I came here hoping to find sources for replacement batteries as both my XDA Execs are now unable to stay on for more than a few minutes. But from another thread I see that these batteries were last heard of back in 2019.
So, in an attempt to try and adapt currently available batteries to fit, I need to find out what the function of the two inner contacts on the XDA Exec are for.
The two outer ones are easily identifiable as +Ve and -Ve and -Ve, but I am stumped as to the inner ones. Is one for a thermistor? One for a charge sense?
Any help either regarding what these pins do or other workarounds gratefully received.
That's going to be a tricky one to source more batteries. Maybe get the dimensions of it, and look around for a similar (slightly smaller) one that can fit inside. You could solder wires between a smaller battery to the phone battery terminals perhaps.
I believe the outside pins are +ve and -ve. The inner ones are battery status indicator, and battery temp. not sure which is which o that particular device.
EDIT: This thread should help with which pin is which
Possible battery solution (fix)
Fellow universal users who suffer from battery problems, i know this issue is reccuring and is in many threads and forums now. However i am sorry to increase the talk in another thread. I just thought i would share my peice of advice. Attached...
forum.xda-developers.com
the_scotsman said:
Maybe get the dimensions of it, and look around for a similar (slightly smaller) one that can fit inside. You could solder wires between a smaller battery to the phone battery terminals perhaps.
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Thanks, I have already started looking at other batteries, the XDA Exec is one of the largest so getting one of lesser dimensions is actually quite easy, but knowing the pinouts of both the Exec and the newer battery is going to be critical.
As far as soldering wires goes, I would be more inclined to try opening up the old battery and soldering new Lion or LiPo cells inside.
Thanks for the link to the other thread, it does indeed suggest the battery sense is adjacent to the -Ve, and therefore the Thermistor lead will be adjacent to the +ve.
No worries. Yea, that would be the best option, replacing cells inside. That's not for everyone though. A bit of skill is involved, which is why I didn't suggest it. But you obviously know enough in this area, so definitely go that way for sure
Did you get anywhere with this? I'd like to power up my Exec as well, but can't without a battery.

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