Hi,
I used to have a 1800mAh battery for my JAMin (an aftermarket Ebay one). I made the mistake of sending my device for repair (screen replacement) with that battery and got a 1200mAh battery back (well - I should have seen that one coming). To cut a long story short - ordered another one. This one looked OK so I put it in my JAMin and it was OK for one day. I then put it to charging (second charging) and suddenly the device had a soft reset and would not come out of splash screen. I picked it up and the battery cover felt hot. I opened it and the battery was very hot on one side. Took it out and put it in a safe place but it would not cool down. I was concerned it will catch fire so I opened it and disconnected one wire going from the battery to the PCB inside. It then cooled off (the PCB was hot - not the LiPo cell). I connected the wire again and it seemed to be OK now but I was not willing to risk it again. I opened one of the 1200mAh batteries I had, thinking about switching just the control PCB. The original battery had a better looking PCB (more professional looking) so I connected it instead of the original PCB. I put the battery back in but now it shows 0 capacity all the time, will not go out of splash screen without a charger connected (WinCE low battery protection??). I know the control PCB has a device with EEPROM and RAM inside so my thoughts are that the RAM must have had a reset when switching cells and needs some refreshing. Any one knows how to do that????
Thanks,
Nir
Related
Well I read this BIG 5 page post on how the Universal shuts down at 30+-% and mine has just done that after owning it for about 8 months.. I read someone discharged the lith-ion battery with a flash light bulb. I did the same @3.6volts and the battery went to ZERO. Now when I plug it in the wall charger it resets over and over without completely booting up and self charging (at the imate welcome screen). Also If I plug it into the usb to charge it just flashes red light rapidly kinda like a 4way stop light but slightly faster. Did I screw up the battery? Did a hard reset with no luck too.
update:
Well there are four connector plates on the battery and I only discharged two of the main plates. Forget the two little plates also have cells and needs discharging.. I crossed them somehow with paper clips and for some reason I got voltage again on all cells! So the unit is back to SUB normal (turning off at 40%-+, sucks!) Time to trial a new battery!
wow you almost killed your battery
first by discharging it to zero (you meant 0 volts?!?! don't allow it to go below 3 volts!)
then shorting it.. (if i interpreted your desc properly)
:shock:
Hello Gentlemen,
I have charging problem with mu Wizard Qtek 9100... its not battery issue I have 2 working batteries...
The phone starts only when the charger is not pluged in..
Otherwise RED light is shown and the phone refuse to start so I need to remove the charger and the battery and then put the battery back so I can start the phone...
When the devise has started already I can plug the charger but the Windows is not showing ORANGE light and is not showing charging....
The device acts very wired and is turning off with no reason...
This happened when my charger burned up while charging my device...
Now I have no sound,the device is SIM locked and is turning off sometimes for no reason....
I believe it is a hardware problem I guess I need new mainboard?
Please advice if this could be a software issue....
The device is G4 IPL/SPL 2.26.0001
Please advice,
Thank a lot...
Regards,
Mitko B.
Battery problem
Hi,
I know old post, but it may help somebody.
It is possible that your windows has switch off the battery charging circuit for some reason.
You MAY be able to get it working with the following trick:-
You need 3 x 1.5 volt AA batteries, some wire and 2 pins
You need to join the batteries together in series (i.e. end to end)
Next make a negative lead from the negative of the battery pack to one of the pins.
The make a positive lead in the same way.
Open the battery cover of your Wizard.
Connect the USB charging cable.
Put the negative pin you have just made into the gap between the battery and the charging pins in the Wizard - MAKE SURE YOU ONLY CONNECT IT TO THE PIN NEAREST TO THE USB PORT.
Now comes the tricky bit - take the positive pin you have just made and touch it on the charging pin which is NEAREST to the power on switch.
If all goes well the charging light on your Wizard should turn orange indicating that it is charging.
You might have to try this a few times, I was never sure if you had to keep the external battry connection on for any length of time or just a quick connection would do the trick. I suppose it depends on the state of the Wizards battery.
This is NOT my work! I do not want to take credit for something that is already documented on this site as it helped me get my battery working again.
Regards,
John
thanks a lot!
saved my wifes phone. Is this problem (happend twice already) something that I can address with a new rom, anyone knows?
I also have the remove the battery go back to Feb2006 issue. Device is off warranty by a few good years. Is it something an experienced electronics person could try (without destroying the phone that is...)
Cheers
V.
Worked for me too
I had just bought a new battery for my Qtek 9100.
This one:
sku.23974 at dealextreme.com
My 9100 had been dead since 2006 (because the battery was dead ...)
And i got a new phone.
but i tought it was to good to throw away, so i bought the new battery.
But i did let it run out of battery, and it would not take the charge.
but this trick did the job
Thanks
Hi all,
Just wanted to sign up to say thank-you - I chanced upon this forum while seeking a solution to the same problem.
I'm happy to report that the 'jump-start' works perfectly!!
I actually used the slightly different method, described in another thread on this forum:
Take a USB-to-Mini B cable. One that you won't need ever again.
Cut the Mini B end off and strip back the outer casing. Inside is a wire mesh and within that a foil lining. Pull these both back.
Now find and strip the black and red wires. The wires are thin and this is a fiddly job, especially if you have large hands, so this works best if you screw the exposed wire strands up into little balls.
Remove the battery from your Qtek 9100 (or whichever model it is). Pay attention to which pin goes to which contact and so identify which ones are the positive and negative contacts on the battery - It is described above in Heinkeljb's post.
Now, plug the USB into your PC (which should be switched on and running) and connect the black wire to the negative (and red to positive) contact on your battery.
Hold for a good 30 seconds.
Now reinsert the battery into the phone and attempt to charge.
You may need to 'jump' your battery a few times....
Once again, many thanks to teh lovely people here for saving my beloved Qtek 9100!!!!!
So there's lots of questions about bad battery life but haven't found my issue in searches - altho I suspect my issue is a factor for many to some degree.
N4 took a 4' to drop to concrete. Screen cracked. Replaced screen w/no problems. Ran fine for a while on stock 4.4.4. Lollipop comes OTA practically zero day and since the N4 isn't my primary phone I upgrade to play around. Shortly after 5.0, the battery drains and shuts the phone off. I charge it overnight, pull it off, battery is dead, phone shuts down. Will stay on and operate fine on wireless charger but powers down if not connected. Pop off the back again to make sure battery connector is snug and reassemble. Now I've got red light of death. Get Google logo and can boot to recovery options but it just cycles. Disassemble again and ultimately find that the battery pins from the mainboard and their little black housing have come off at some point. Try to solder it back on but there's chips on the back side and there's just no room to get the solder on and pins reconnected. Not w/my skills anyway.
My main question is, has anyone successfully reconnected that annoying mofo? Thinking about skipping the connectors and just soldering wire straight from the battery to the board. I don't see anything in that connector that would be a problem if absent, but any warnings I should know about? Other workarounds?
This is not mission critical, just principle/spite.
Repaired?
gkmocv said:
So there's lots of questions about bad battery life but haven't found my issue in searches - altho I suspect my issue is a factor for many to some degree.
N4 took a 4' to drop to concrete. Screen cracked. Replaced screen w/no problems. Ran fine for a while on stock 4.4.4. Lollipop comes OTA practically zero day and since the N4 isn't my primary phone I upgrade to play around. Shortly after 5.0, the battery drains and shuts the phone off. I charge it overnight, pull it off, battery is dead, phone shuts down. Will stay on and operate fine on wireless charger but powers down if not connected. Pop off the back again to make sure battery connector is snug and reassemble. Now I've got red light of death. Get Google logo and can boot to recovery options but it just cycles. Disassemble again and ultimately find that the battery pins from the mainboard and their little black housing have come off at some point. Try to solder it back on but there's chips on the back side and there's just no room to get the solder on and pins reconnected. Not w/my skills anyway.
My main question is, has anyone successfully reconnected that annoying mofo? Thinking about skipping the connectors and just soldering wire straight from the battery to the board. I don't see anything in that connector that would be a problem if absent, but any warnings I should know about? Other workarounds?
This is not mission critical, just principle/spite.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So were you ever able to get the connector solder back on? I think mine break because it was to hot when I was removing the battery. My nexus 4 shutdown on me, my battery was expanded. I was wondering why my screen was being pushed out. I wonder if Android 5.0.1 is causing phone to run to hot. Never did this with Android 4.4.4. Hope the connector can be fixed. Maybe I take it to a solder shop.
jameswhite4684 said:
So were you ever able to get the connector solder back on? I think mine break because it was to hot when I was removing the battery. My nexus 4 shutdown on me, my battery was expanded. I was wondering why my screen was being pushed out. I wonder if Android 5.0.1 is causing phone to run to hot. Never did this with Android 4.4.4. Hope the connector can be fixed. Maybe I take it to a solder shop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet. I pulled the connector back off and cleaned everything up. I found that even very small gauge solder is too sloppy for the 4 small connections. Not to mention there's chips on the back side so you can't linger too long with heat. So my plan is to try again with some conductive ink and/or gel. If that doesn't work I'm just going to use wires to bridge the battery right to the board. Haven't had time to work on it but I'll follow up here when I do.
Did you get a replacement battery? Lithium batteries can swell because of overcharging. There are definitely more than a few N4 owners who had the same issue. A replacement battery won't solve that problem but it could be more tolerant of it, for a while - and depending on if it was "user error" or a fault in the phone's overcharging protection circuitry. Don't go to the trouble of having someone solder the connector back on with the old battery.
My Phone overheated couple nights ago while charging. I could not reboot it , and decided to disassemble it and disconnect the battery. No problem with disassembly, checked battery with DMM and it was showing 0V.
Decided to "jumpstart" the battery and I was able to get phone to recognize it and charge it a little, however during regular cable charging it was still very hot to the touch. So I thought I have shorted battery cells when it overheated initially.
Now interesting part - Ordered brand new battery from Amazon, battery came sealed in ESD bag with all proper ZTE signage.
1) Put the new battery in and the 3 or 5 seconds after I connected it , battery was blazing hot to the touch - Phone was in off state.
2) Disconnected motherboard ribbon cable and battery cooled down almost instantly.
It looks like there is some very high current flow even with phone fully off - like something has been shorted out.
Interestingly enough, battery is hot only under the motherboard ribbon cable, and when I say hot I mean hot - to burn yourself in several seconds
Anyone had similar experience?
Sounds like your phone is fooked.
Unfortunately, time to consider what comes next.
Hi,
Please can anyone tell me whether the little connector on the vibration motor is supposed to be soldered to the motherboard or does it just touch at a certain place?
I've already posted another thread about having replaced the battery but it doesn't seem to charge.
Without going into details all over again, a local repair shop replaced the charging port last week - my phone was returned in seemingly working order but they had assured me a bulging battery was OK. I charged my phone but the battery was draining quickly, which was what led me to research a bit more and discovered how dangerous it can be so I ordered a new one.
In the process of fitting the new battery, I discovered half the screws in my phone missing, no copper tape, plus there is no black rubber cover over the charging port & vibration motor as is shown on the guide for replacing the battery on the fixit.com website.
So I'm wondering if the small square 'connecctor' (?) part of the vibration motor ought to be soldered to the motherboard or is it just normally held in place by the black rubber cover? In my phone now, the 'connector' doesn't stay touching motherboard so I'm not sure if this would affect the phone and stop it from functioning or would it just mean the vibration wouldn't work?
Would this affect whether the battery could charge or not?
(Incidentally, I discovered that the the battery connector was upside down compared to the pictures in the ifixit.com guide (the red wire was nearest to the battery instead of the black wire being nearest) so I was hopeful that by correcting it to match the picture, I would have solved the problem but unfortunately, it didn't make any difference. When I connect a wall charger, the screen just flashes and when I connect it to my laptop, it just gets a blinking white led but nothing more. It seems strange to me that it wouldn't make a difference - is it like a usb-c cable in that it can go either way round?)
The battery seller asked for photos of the new battery in my phone and has now offered to replace it - is this likely to make a difference or is the vibration motor not being attached to the motherboard the cause of the problem?
I'll be so grateful for some help.