Hi!
The plastic bit that holds the stylus to the back on my 614c has come off (and there's a small metal piece as well) and I'm not sure how to put them back together... can anyone share a picture of how the stylus holder is fitted to the back flap please?
http://www.mendelonline.be/fotos/614c/
maybe it helps
mendel129 said:
http://www.mendelonline.be/fotos/614c/
maybe it helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but need a bit more help... there is a small metal piece (it would be ~1 cm long if it was straightened) with a small v-shaped notch in the middle, and the edges are bent at 90 degrees, something like this:
|___ __|
......\/
the digram is not to scale, but the V is not exactly in the center. (ignore the ...... otherwise the V wasn't displaying where it should)
I think this is what locks the stylus in, but I can't seem to find a place where it belongs... can you look through the slot and maybe tell me where you see it?
Thanks!
i think i've found what you mean
looks like it's situated on the top of the slot.
see here: http://www.mendelonline.be/fotos/614c/location
Thanks!
All this time I was trying to fit the strip across the hole (which doesn't make much sense in hindsight) but from the 2nd image I understood that it goes parallel. So far I've slotted it in (the tubelike piece has a slot for it) and it's just being held in place by the cover... i.e. if I remove the back cover it's all going to fall apart
Need to find a way to glue it in carefully.
Related
I bought today p3600. I have however a small problem. I cannot unfortunately open the cover. therefore I can not use akku and sim card. I have fear that I make p3600 broken. i need a assistence, heelp!!
if anyone can send me some picture how to open the back cover of p3600
sorry for bad english, thanks to google
my msn: [email protected]
did you manage to open the battery cover? I have the same issue.
I must be blind, but I cannot find a way to open the battery compartment.
You slide the whole back cover up. You need to use some force, and you hear a click sound when it opens. No covers sliding of by mistake on this model
Thank you!
Finally I was able to manage. You do have to apply some force. As a first timer opening the Trinity's battery compartment, I was a bit scared, but after reading your message, I said: "let's go for it! if it brakes, I'll say it was defective" .
andreuroig said:
Thank you!
Finally I was able to manage. You do have to apply some force. As a first timer opening the Trinity's battery compartment, I was a bit scared, but after reading your message, I said: "let's go for it! if it brakes, I'll say it was defective" .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL
I also had MAJOR problems opening my Trinity...glad I'm not the only one - it was a bit embaressing ;-)
Opening the Trinity
1. Remove the stylus. This helps.
2. Use the edge created to gently push up.
3. It slides only a very short distance (2 cm) to free the back cover.
4. NO pushing on the back cover like the Prophet.
Removing the stylus does help. Thank you.
Where do you put your fingers to slide up? Does the camera slide up as well?
//edit
I found out how to open. thanks for the hints!
Glad you managed.
I think it is one of the hardest removing covers I've seen to date.
How to open the back of the HTC P3600 Trinity for battery and SIM
The HTC P3600 Trinity is a really great phone. But opening the back to put in the SIM and battery is really astonishingly difficult.
The first piece of advice I offer is if you bought the phone in a local store, go back and have a member of their staff do it! Even if it is a long drive! If it does break then they will be responsible!
But, like many people, I bought mine from an online merchant so that was not an option for me.
I regret it is difficult to provide a meaningful photo. But I hope the following description may be helpful to someone.
Ignore the very minimal directions in the user guide which simply refer to sliding the back open. This is misleading. No sliding is involved. The photo in the user guide also does not correspond to the actual back of the phone so should also be ignored. It is actually one piece of molded plastic that encompasses the entire back and goes around some of the sides too. There is no panel or section to slide or swivel open.
Also ignore the two little raised bumps low down at the back. They look like the back of the Magician. I initially expected to push downwards on them to slide the back off. Not so!
Unlike the Wizard there is no release switch, as there is no panel to open.
The back pops completely off by being levered directly backwards away from the front of the phone. Not up-down-left or right. Just directly backwards.
Like this:
|Back| <--> [Prise with force!] <--> |Front|
I recommend using a soft surface for your phone during this ordeal! Something like a big cushion or a sofa or a bed. Not a hard desk. This process will take both hands and your phone will need a soft landing if slips away from you!
The only notch to use for initial leverage is if you remove the stylus. I took out the stylus to make this notch accessible. I then used two spare Magician stylii to prise the back off. I used the handle ends, not the tips. First I placed the handle end of one stylus in the notch where the Trinity stylus goes and twisted it very hard to begin to lever the back open. Once a gap began to appear I forced the handle end of my other spare Magician stylus into the gap to hold it open. Then I found another gap to prise another place on the back open more.
By using the two stylii handles with considerable force I was able to work around the back of the phone until it popped off with a loud "clack". This was an uneasy and contradictory combination of force and care!
Fortunately, I managed to do this without damaging or denting any part of the phone. I was quite relieved as it was not easy.
It does seem the back is made of strong plastic which is sufficiently strong and flexible to stand this force! HTH.
I don't see how you people found the unit hard to open at all. You just push on the lip at the bottom of it while gripping the lip at the top front with your other hand. Took me maybe 5 seconds to figure it out.
Of course, I treat all my electronics like crap and am not gentle with them at all. You guys will have working Trinities four years from now, and mine will probably be at the bottom of a lake within a few months
mikesol said:
I don't see how you people found the unit hard to open at all. You just push on the lip at the bottom of it while gripping the lip at the top front with your other hand. Took me maybe 5 seconds to figure it out.
Of course, I treat all my electronics like crap and am not gentle with them at all. You guys will have working Trinities four years from now, and mine will probably be at the bottom of a lake within a few months
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Witty post, mikesol! I do hope my Trinity will be working 4 years from now... but I have yet to have a handheld last a full year! You may just have your brain properly engaged, unlike me!
To be honest, it was just really absurdly hard to open my Trinity the very first time. Now I can open it quite easily just as you describe. Actually, it feels like it even has the potential to get a bit loose if I opened it a few more times (so I will open again only when essential)
I'd guess some of them come from the factory with the back on really, really tight. Perhaps yours had just enough give to make it a bit more apparent which way to pull? There was absolutely no give in mine any way I moved it first time around. It really would not have come off the way you describe that first time. Of course my fingers are puny and frail!
How do you like the phone?
different method
hi there,
I bought the p3600 yesterday in HK and first had the same problem. And because some of the methods described in this thread are definetly impossible with my model, I would like to present you my way of opening the back cover.
It really slides up. So take the p3600 and put it with the display to the hand in your left flat hand with the buttons on the side where your arm should begin.
Take your other hand and put it in the back of the p3600. you now should look like a Chinese in a temple.
Move/slide now your right hand up in the direction in with the fingers point. use some force. Thats it! I open it this way.
stucki said:
hi there,
I bought the p3600 yesterday in HK and first had the same problem. And because some of the methods described in this thread are definetly impossible with my model, I would like to present you my way of opening the back cover.
It really slides up. So take the p3600 and put it with the display to the hand in your left flat hand with the buttons on the side where your arm should begin.
Take your other hand and put it in the back of the p3600. you now should look like a Chinese in a temple.
Move/slide now your right hand up in the direction in with the fingers point. use some force. Thats it! I open it this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I gather here (this is a fantastic example of google translation!!! ) I think this "new method" is exactly like what was described by mikesol above. The running theme here is that you must use force to get the unit to open. Also, it is definitely a sliding motion from bottom to top - do not pry it off as has been suggested earlier! I think the camera confuses people (it looks like you need to lift the cover off around the camera - but the whole camera circle comes off as part of the back cover).
I think we can put this one to bed now.
absolutely the hardest cover to remove, but thanks to you "trailblazers" i was able to remove mine without destroying it.
I did my way
HTC Trinity just arrived. Same battery cover problem. Tried to follow advice in this thread but my big, sweaty hands could not gain enough leverage on the extremely shiny casing, to slide the back cover up. My fingers just slipped off. So here is my method. To slide the back cover up you press up (or away from you) on the bottom edge of the back casing and press down (or towards you) on the top edge of the front casing. The top edge of the front casing is maybe 5mm wide, rounded and very difficult to push against, for me at least. My method involves bracing this top edge of the front casing against an immobile hard edge while you push up on the back casing with your fingers. The immobile hard edge I used was a wooden chopping board braced against the wall. To make sure it pressed only against the top edge of the front casing (and not also against the top edge of the back casing which would stop the back casing sliding up) I used a book to next to the wooden board to raised the Trinity to the right height off the work surface on which everything rested. So....I placed the Trinity face down on the book with its top front edge braced against the edge of the adjacent wooden board and used my fingers to press upwards (towards the wooden board) on the bottom edge of the back casing. The back casing then slid relatively easily. Job done. Its not easy putting this into words. Hope someone can make sense of the above and finds it helpful.
Hi! So my Wizard (well, the T-Mobile MDA) had an issue where its USB port became completely detached, so I found the service manual and opened it up to fix it. When I got the back housing off to expose the relevant circuit board, a small metal part flew out, and I can't for the life of me figure out where it belongs. The pictures in the manual aren't high enough resolution for me to be able to tell where this tiny sliver of metal fits in. I've since done the soldering I needed to do and fixed the USB jack, and the phone seems to work fine... I've attached two pictures of the part in question, with the phone for scale on the first one.
Any ideas? If I'm not noticing any functional differences, is it reasonable to just not worry about it? Thanks!
That is the spring clip that holds the stylus in place. I mounts inside the cover over where the stylus goes.
Fantastic. Thanks!
Thanks a million from me too....had the exact same problem yesterday!
Stylist retaining spring
Thanks for the info - I too found this after disassembling my to check and clean the buttons. Although, now it isn't working - rats! I had hoped that finding where this belonged would solve that.
rmcknight said:
That is the spring clip that holds the stylus in place. I mounts inside the cover over where the stylus goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are in wrong, that part, it is beer bottle opener
Hi there,
I broke my touch screen and tried to replace it by myself.
To make a long story short, I failed miserably (I broke the screen under).
However, I learned a few things I didn't met in the forum.
A- Disassembly of the case.
1- The Legend is glued. So, you have first to use hoven to melt the glue before being able to do anything useful.
15min/ 60 degree in the oven. Or use an hair dryer (I used the former).
2- Don't forget to remove ALL the screws (even the one behind the IMEI notice).
3- Don't try to open the camera lid before loosening the glue or you'll damage the aluminium body.
4- You have to unplug all the différent cables, so take notes to remember where all of them goes.
5- You must disassemble all the boards. There are 2 boards. One supporting the sim / SD connector, and one supporting the screen/touchscreen.
6- When disassembling the screen board, remove it by pulling the touchscreen at the bottom, and lift it up. don't pass a tool on the sides to remove it or worse, under the touchscreen, you'r tool will touch the screen under and break it (like I did). The screen is very, very fragile
Now, I'm stuck here because I can't remove the connector of the legent which is passed under the shield on the back of the screen.
I'm not able to remove the screen so I would like to know how to remove this shielding or get back the touchscreen connector to be able to replace it.
Once I figure out how to remove this shiled, I may be able to remove the screen too.
But now, I'm clueless (it was 2 in the morning when I gave up).
Maybe, some of you knew the trick to open this phone further.
I'd like to hear about it.
A little up to my post for the ones who did not read it till the end:
I can't remove the connector of the legend which is goind under the shield on the back of the screen.
I would like to know how to remove this shielding or get back the touchscreen connector to be able to replace it.
Once I figure out how to remove this shield, I may be able to remove the screen too.
But now, I'm clueless (it was 2 in the morning when I gave up).
mate it sounds like you have trashed your phone.they are built NOT to be taken apart.They require special tools and process to be repaired. The only thing i would suggest is contacting your insurance company and let them know that your phone was crushed under a car or something and then crush it under the car and you can get it replaced. If you dont have insurance, take some out and make a claim in say a month or two.
Its not an honest thing to do but your phone sounds busted and its the cheapest way of replacing that handset.
Post a pic of it if you can
Unfortunately, I have no rights to post a link or some put some pics.
Something about spam and profile that should be reviewed before being able show any pics.
This device is glued. No specialized tools are able to open it without removing it.
That would mean that the phone cannot be repaired, only replaced. My phone's motherboard was replaced, so at the service stations they should have special tools.
Fixed it!
Bottom right hand corner:
Bend the shielding back just enough to allow you to slip the connector in & then use a little glue to stick it back.
Maybe I was lucky, but my phones working as good as new again
I fixed my Legend
Guys, I know it's been a while since you talked but in case someone else is looking for this info, that's what happened to me:
I cracked the display of my legend and purchased a new one on eBay (roughly 40 pounds) - obviously delivered from Hong Kong but a genuine Samsung (in case you didn't know the Legen's screen as well as most of the AMOLED screens are Samsung's).
Then I used the above information plus some YouTube videos to give myself an idea as to what should I do. The result follows:
I used a hair dryer to heat up the back of the phone (camera and loudspeaker cover). Perhaps I should have been more patient as in the end I decided to use a knife with a very thin blade to lift it and I scratched the plastic and the aluminium body a bit. Anyways - the back clicks in but is glued in addition to that so you have to use both the heat and gently applied force.
Once you remove the back cover (which took me the longest out of everything) you should start removing screws. There's two behind the back cover and six behind the bottom cover (where the battery is). At this stage you don't have to remove all the screws - the bottom two, the one behind the IMEI and the one under the VOID sticker hold the main board but the two screws sitting deeper inside the phone's body hold the front buttons so you may leave them for now.
Now comes the trickiest part so read carefully: the main board is held inside the unibody by the screws (which we already removed), but is also glued right below the camera lens and along the sides. You should probably heat it up as much as you can and for a long time. I decided to do it the hard way. My dislplay was already cracked and it's the most delicate part of the phone so I said "whatever" and used the same knife as before - moved it alongside the screen (pushed it in gently from the front) until there was no resistance (the glue let go). Then I pushed and I heated the thing up and pushed and tried from every angle until finally the board slid out of the unibody. I hope you'll find it easier then I did as it seems that everyone describing it found it quite doable.
Now everything becomes easy-peasy. Remove the remaining screws to put the buttons aside (you'll have both the actul buttons and the tiny board with sensors - the latter sticks to the screen but once you remove the connectors, yu can take it off too). All the connectors are quite easy to remove if you hav a needle or something (just pull them out gently). I didn't worry about noting which is which as ther is practically no way you can mix them up - they're very different.
The rubbery plastic black surrounding of the board clicks in, so once you find the right spots you can lift them gently and take the thing off. You'll be left with the display covered by the shielding from the top and a thin metal board from the bottom. You have to remove two more screws to disconnect the main display plug.
And the final bit (that's where the thread's author had a problem I believe). My display was cracked but the shielding - fine. These two are glued together so I had to find some space for my finger nail and lift the shield. By slowly and gently pulling it apart I detached one from the other - and had to do the same thing with the metal board. Don't forget there's some extra stuff to remove from the back of the display - they're all glued but the glue will remain fresh enough for you to glue them again - this time to the new screen. The same applies to the front shield. I hope you won't let any dust sit on it in the meantime. You should have a screen protector on your new display if you bought it like I did. Remove it now and the display will be happy to stick to the old front shield just as if it was always there. The metal back will also fit in.
Now you can go through the above process backwards - just remember to connect all the connectors.
What I didn't do: I didn't use ANY glue putting the phone back together. As an effect the front shield is sticking out a bit (doesn't sit in the unibody tightly). It doesn't affect the phone itself but it gives you the funny feeling that something isn't 100% right. But I prefer that than screwing something up with a misuse of glue (glue can be disobedient).
The most important piece of information: the phone is working 100% correctly as if it was never disassembled by an amateur. Apart from two scatches on the back, the VOID sticker missing, the front sticking out slightly (less than a mm) and the missing battery slider (which I forgot to put back in and didn't bother to repeat the whole process for the sake of it) - there is nothing wrong with the phone. So if you ever crack you ever crack your Legend's screen - you can try fixing it yourself if you have the courage.
I would like to see some photos too But I'm never gonna take my phone apart - can't see the point
Foto's
Nice thread, i myself am wondering, if a better gsm antenna can be fixed inside the phone. and connect them to the 2 connections.
Do you have any pictures of the inside housing etc?
I have looked high and low for Legend disassembly instructions in order to replace my screen (Digitizer) I finally found instructions on how to disassemble the HTC Legend and replace the screen thanks to allerien's post in the XDA forums 11th March 2011, 07:17 PM. There are no YouTube videos yet that I know of that actually show u how to remove and replace the screen so this is a step by step guide tat will help alot of user's including me.
Thanks Allerien
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I fixed my Legend
I cracked the display of my legend and purchased a new one on eBay (roughly 40 pounds) - obviously delivered from Hong Kong but a genuine Samsung (in case you didn't know the Legen's screen as well as most of the AMOLED screens are Samsung's).
Then I used the above information plus some YouTube videos to give myself an idea as to what should I do. The result follows:
I used a hair dryer to heat up the back of the phone (camera and loudspeaker cover). Perhaps I should have been more patient as in the end I decided to use a knife with a very thin blade to lift it and I scratched the plastic and the aluminium body a bit. Anyways - the back clicks in but is glued in addition to that so you have to use both the heat and gently applied force.
Once you remove the back cover (which took me the longest out of everything) you should start removing screws. There's two behind the back cover and six behind the bottom cover (where the battery is). At this stage you don't have to remove all the screws - the bottom two, the one behind the IMEI and the one under the VOID sticker hold the main board but the two screws sitting deeper inside the phone's body hold the front buttons so you may leave them for now.
Now comes the trickiest part so read carefully: the main board is held inside the unibody by the screws (which we already removed), but is also glued right below the camera lens and along the sides. You should probably heat it up as much as you can and for a long time. I decided to do it the hard way. My dislplay was already cracked and it's the most delicate part of the phone so I said "whatever" and used the same knife as before - moved it alongside the screen (pushed it in gently from the front) until there was no resistance (the glue let go). Then I pushed and I heated the thing up and pushed and tried from every angle until finally the board slid out of the unibody. I hope you'll find it easier then I did as it seems that everyone describing it found it quite doable.
Now everything becomes easy-peasy. Remove the remaining screws to put the buttons aside (you'll have both the actul buttons and the tiny board with sensors - the latter sticks to the screen but once you remove the connectors, yu can take it off too). All the connectors are quite easy to remove if you hav a needle or something (just pull them out gently). I didn't worry about noting which is which as ther is practically no way you can mix them up - they're very different.
The rubbery plastic black surrounding of the board clicks in, so once you find the right spots you can lift them gently and take the thing off. You'll be left with the display covered by the shielding from the top and a thin metal board from the bottom. You have to remove two more screws to disconnect the main display plug.
And the final bit (that's where the thread's author had a problem I believe). My display was cracked but the shielding - fine. These two are glued together so I had to find some space for my finger nail and lift the shield. By slowly and gently pulling it apart I detached one from the other - and had to do the same thing with the metal board. Don't forget there's some extra stuff to remove from the back of the display - they're all glued but the glue will remain fresh enough for you to glue them again - this time to the new screen. The same applies to the front shield. I hope you won't let any dust sit on it in the meantime. You should have a screen protector on your new display if you bought it like I did. Remove it now and the display will be happy to stick to the old front shield just as if it was always there. The metal back will also fit in.
Now you can go through the above process backwards - just remember to connect all the connectors.
What I didn't do: I didn't use ANY glue putting the phone back together. As an effect the front shield is sticking out a bit (doesn't sit in the unibody tightly). It doesn't affect the phone itself but it gives you the funny feeling that something isn't 100% right. But I prefer that than screwing something up with a misuse of glue (glue can be disobedient).
The most important piece of information: the phone is working 100% correctly as if it was never disassembled by an amateur. Apart from two scatches on the back, the VOID sticker missing, the front sticking out slightly (less than a mm) and the missing battery slider (which I forgot to put back in and didn't bother to repeat the whole process for the sake of it) - there is nothing wrong with the phone. So if you ever crack you ever crack your Legend's screen - you can try fixing it yourself if you have the courage.
Isn't it possible to just exchange the glass along with with the digitizer? I myself need to replace the digitizer, because mine went quite unusable after an accident with water..
Either way this was a nice guide which i will make use of!
great info my legend has only a broken digitizer so i will be replacing that soon
anyone help out with were the magnet should be placed instead on the m7 i heard its somewere on the back , or gogogle says summit about copper tape but does not really explain it
any help would be great
I just got one and I'm wondering the exact same thing.
I bought a kit and the magnet is on the left, but does nothing. I might have to explore the copper tape option.
eoinzy said:
I just got one and I'm wondering the exact same thing.
I bought a kit and the magnet is on the left, but does nothing. I might have to explore the copper tape option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no i got it it needs to go on front next to cut out for camera abut 2cm to left of it (if looking at it head on) i just popped magnets off and put them there and works grand now
How did u get the pieces to stay in place? Did you tape them on, or cut out holes for them, similar to the ones at the side?
eoinzy said:
How did u get the pieces to stay in place? Did you tape them on, or cut out holes for them, similar to the ones at the side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
as a test i used nothing power of magnet was enough but i will stick inside magnet with tape later(help it not scratch case) and might make a new peice of card to match one on side for outside magnet, tho i printout so i might just redesign that and start again
I bought one on eBay but I might make modifications to it.
I was thinking of geting some cardboard off a pizza box and sicking it to both the inside and outside, so it matches the side. That way I can use it for my HTC One M7, but still use it for other devices too, if I bring it to a friends house, or into my job.
I actualy had it in my job this morning and we were using a Nexus to play with it, and it worked perfectly.
Guys I tried moving both magnets - the one inside and the moveble on the exact spot ( and near it ) where you suggest, but my M7 still does not work with this cardboard. Actualy I tried it on few more spots, but does not work. Is there any other option to make selections . What is this copper tape idea :?
go by this video
beerfly said:
Guys I tried moving both magnets - the one inside and the moveble on the exact spot ( and near it ) where you suggest, but my M7 still does not work with this cardboard. Actualy I tried it on few more spots, but does not work. Is there any other option to make selections . What is this copper tape idea :?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Watch this video or maybe try stronger magnet
youtube.com/watch?v=4EiYltyeUk8
See where it overlooks and Use a Sensor checker app and then Move the magnet as you take the reading and once the reading is the most fluctuating. There it is