Does anyone have experience using 3rd party chargers with the Treo Pro or HTC devices in general?
I've purchased a kensington 4-port USB wall charger. It's an interesting concept which allows you to plug in up to 4 USB cables (iPods, iPhones, Treo Pro) and only use one outlet. A neat trick when you have multiple phones and devices in your family.
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Thanks!
Well, I got my wall charger and car charger from Officemax. The charger brand is "Just Wireless". Both are working fine for me. Before, I tried to use the sync cable to plug the regular USB power adapter for wall or car charger, some work, some don't. It seems Palm modified the micro-usb cable...
So my suggestion, if you are looking for charger for Treo Pro, you should look for compable with Moto R9 (which using micro-usb plug, too) I used to have one Moto charger, It worked in my Treo Pro!
jbinmn said:
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
I got a couple of desktop chargers from ebay for about £8 each. Work fine.
frause said:
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
Yep i just bought two kensington 4 port chargers and looks like it doesnt charge the TP
Im about to buy a microusb cable to do the trick you suggested, (i cant seem to open the Kensington 4 port!), any reference websites you could suggest that could explain abit more about the shorting of the data wires inside? Just like to read up abit more before the cable arrives
Thanks!
shorting two center pins solves problem
Thank you for the details. I was able to get two car chargers to work with Palm cables after opening them up and shorting the middle pins with a dab of solder. I opened up a non-Palm cable and discovered only two wires, red and white, and no surprise: it did not work even with the "fixed" adapters. So you need to have pins shorted, and a cable that can return the short to the Treo from the adapter, or if you have a cable with all leads inside you could short the two wires instead and leave the adapter alone. However, if you only have two wires inside the cable you would have to short inside the micro plug, which is a little cramped to work in. If you have only two wires in your cable (hard to tell really without cutting it open; too small to get a continuity probe in there), and/or an adapter without the pins shorted, the Treo will not pull current and charge itself.
The Wikipedia USB Spec referenced by frause above says in part:
" A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8*A of current at 5.25*V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8*A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200O. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured."
An interpretation of the reported observations and this spec is that a charger can communicte to the device under charge the maximum current the charger is able to supply. This communication occurs by the charger either "shorting" the data pins or not. Non-shorted data pins indicates that the charger is capable of at most 500 mA. Its possible that the Treo Pro(TP) is smart enough to know it should conserve power when being charged from a low current charger. One way for the TP to conserve power would be to not power the LED on the TP if there is only 500 mA available for charging.
NOTE THAT IF THIS INTERPRETATION IS TRUE THEN IT IS ACTUALLY DISADVANTAGEOUS TO ARTIFICIALLY SHORT THE DATA PINS.
Related
As probably several other users, I have set my hd2 to NOT charge when connected to pc, as I often plug the cable to transfer pictures, cabs and the likes. This is useful when I actually plug it to the PC, and it regularly charges with stock/compatible cable if connected to mains charger.
Problems could arise when you connect the microusb cable to the standard carlighter plug with an adapter having a female USB connector in it. It gets recognized as a "pc" and thus the device won't charge unless you re-enable charging when connected to PC.
In case you experience this, as per link found in second post of this thread, you can short the two middle contacts of the USB connector (the data pins) so the phone recognizes the charger as a proper one instead of mistaking it for a PC.
http://www.pocketpc.ch/htc-hd2-sons...en-hoehere-ladestroeme-akku-laed-im-auto.html
desribes modification of car charger, sorry but it´s german. HD2 detects via USB data pins, if it´s connected to PC or charger. If USB data pins are connected like described in above, it will be charged by the car adapter as well. To achive this you´ve to modify your adapter as described.
Regards
Georg
Thank you! Google translate is helping me... and believe me or not, it seems that what I was guessing is actually true: you need to short the data pins of the usb cable... could you confirm please kleiner_onkel? I am not quite so sure of what I am reading with google, as that kind of english is quite far-fetched
n that case I could also avoid messing with the insides of the usb-lighter adapter, and just short the cables inside an external USB hub
EDIT: I just tested it, syhorted the middle data pins of the usb-a plug inside a cheapo usb1 hub, it works and charges the phone when "charge from pc" is disabled.
Will meddle to clean the job and then will update first post
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do see a use, if you're on a laptop running on batteries, you don't necessarily want to empty your laptop batteries faster by recharging the phone if you don't need to. But that's the only one.
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Aterlatus said:
In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
I believe there's actually still an extra step from this mod to the phone knowing it is on the original charger. I have both a Chinese USB charger and a car charger, rated at 650mA and 800mA respectively. On both (with soldered pins), the HD2 will charge at 600mA, not 800-900 like with the original charger. But 600 is of course already better than 450.
kilrah said:
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From: ht tp://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
Dedicated charger mode:
A simple USB charger should short the 2 data lines together. The device will then not attempt to transmit or receive data, but can draw up to 1.8A, if the supply can provide it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's in the spec, and a car battery won't have any problem supplying the current. A cheap (read: chinese off ebay) charger might well employ just a simple resistor. Sure, any decent charger will use a voltage regulator or a buck converter to maintain the correct voltage. That doesn't mean that ALL will, hence the warning to take care.
"If the supply can provide it" is the key. The USB device will see if the supply can't give that much and its voltage starts to drop.
And anyway the HD2 would never draw 1.8A or it would damage its battery.
I noticed much the same thing by accident as reported in this thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=638007
Beware that if your HD2 is set up to detect it, it will turn on Navipanel when plugging in this type of cable
pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I may be the slow minded here. BUT
1) Everyone having had even third-person experience with laptops knows that using one with a battery inserted and "most of the time" attached to the external power unit, makes the battery die pretty soon, and all laptop batteries are Li-Ion based since quite a while; sure, part of that damage comes from the heat generated on the battery both from the charging and the laptop being turned on, but all the rest is caused by the "unnecessary" repeated charges (confront the "battery university" website for this)
2) I often plug/unplug the cable from the pc to move several small files, I just don't feel comfortable doing it if everytime the battery gets a "charging hit", for the aforementioned reasons
3) I want to be able to charge the device when I choose to and not just everytime I plug it somewhere
4) enabling the car charger as "proper charger" lets the device take up more current and charging faster
5) I've always behaved, with all my Li-Ion powered devices, in a way that I would charge the battery when it got to ~20-30% and not before, reducing the number of times I actually charged it; the definition of "recharge cycle" is not the easiest one here, and "battery university" has an interesting one; but since my behaviour until now has given its good results, I'll just keep doing that
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As kilrah stated, 1.85A may be the max specification, yet the HD2 is NOT going to get that much from a recognized charger. The german thread pointed from the second post of the thread is also specific about it, the intook currents are higher, but not that higher... plus I've peeked inside the car lighter charger, and it's got no single resistor Also, the max 2A is useful when you plug several other things to it for charging purposes other than the HD2, and that's why I connect the HD2 to a USB1 hub connected to the carlighter charger
For a briefly useful reference, my iPaq 214 only took max 200mA from the miniusb plug no matter the charger capacity not the charger "nature", so devices do have a regulator, and it would be reasonable to think that a multihundred euros phone has one, and pretty efficient at it
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
atagent said:
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
solder together the central pins on the charger output port, it's the exact same principle
Even thought hacking a cable is "safer", as you're playing with a ~2USB asset instead of a ~5USD one, and you have to connect a usb cable to the car charger anyway in order to charge the phone
Hello, I've just bought an emergency charger for my Kaiser. It takes the power from an AA battery and gives the USB voltage in the output. It works great with my Mio A 501, but doesn't work at all with the Kaiser. I did a quick search and found this in a discussion about car chargers:
Are you using the HTC charger or an OEM one?
The HTC charger works all the time the OEM ones don't - the reason being that if you use a normal Mini USB cable, the handsets will only take a charge if there is an indication of a data connection (either than gprs or the cable) - otherwise it won't take a charge.
You can apparently solder a couple of wires together on a normal mini USB cable - but I wouldn't know where to start on that!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now I've already heard of that, for example, a Play Station Portable needs the data wires in the USB grounded in order to charge. Is it the same with Kaiser? (putting three wires together isn't a big deal) Or is there an easier way how to make it charge?
So, I gave it a try and soldered the data wires with the ground wire. But when I try to charge the Kaiser, a yellow led starts to glow (which it didn't with the original cable) and, after a minute or two, the led goes off and Kaiser stops charging. When I turn the Kaiser off and then plug the cable in, the yellow led doesn't go off. However, when I turn Kaiser back on to check the battery meter (after about half an hour), I find out that the battery didn't take any charge at all. So, could anyone tell me what the problem is?
thanks, Mike
PS.: Adding some photos of the wires...
Probably because of the voltage...
Hey!
Have you checked the output voltage of this charger? Standard charger outputs 5V. If yours outputs less - the battery won't charge; if outputs more - you may "burn" your PDA chipsets
5V - 5.5V is safe range.
I found this on thinkgeek.
http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/cellphone/b43f/
It says for iPhone, but sure it would work just fine with other devices that have issues.
had a same problem but using it in the car...
when i got my tytn2 i immediately bought a car charger and the salesman told it's an original one, said output 5v 1A.. when using in the car it charged for a minute or two and went off... than i got from ebay a micro usb 1A charger (used for iPhone too) and tried in the car-> it work flawlessly
Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Usb pinout:
gnd d- d+ 5v
To work you must short d+ and d-.
From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
I tested it and it's working.
Hi, it's not a trick but a standard. You only need to short d+ with d-, the resistors are not needed. Just be sure that the charger outputs closest to 5v possible, around 5.2~3 usually work for everything. About 5.6v and it start not to work on some devices, like apple..
Maybe, I have to test that
I know it's not a trick, I should wrote "trick".
For example GT adapter outputs 5.31v.
Apple adapter worked with 1 22k resistor between d- d+.
WarlockM said:
Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Usb pinout:
gnd d- d+ 5v
To work you must short d+ and d-.
From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
I tested it and it's working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WarlockM said:
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How can you do that? You need an extra device adapter? Please explain.
I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.
@MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
Tie together white and green wires.
Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.
See att. Sry for drawing.
bookmarking this for later use
WarlockM said:
I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.
@MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
Tie together white and green wires.
Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.
See att. Sry for drawing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need that for modern devices has i told you. It did not work because you did it wrong. I have all my usb chargers working the new way, you even have wikipedia talking about it. You have to cut the data + and - on the power supply from the female usb port and short only the female d+ and d-. Trust me it works and it is alot simpler.
Edit : from wikipedia "The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification."
""As of June 14, 2007, all new mobile phones applying for a license in China are required to use the USB port as a power port.[35][36] This was the first standard to use the convention of shorting D+ and D-.[37]""
http://apple.slashdot.org/story/10/08/03/1743240/Hardware-Hackers-Reveal-Apples-Charger-Secrets
""We all love to call out Apple when they design deliberate incompatibility into their devices, but there is a perfectly valid technical reason for what Apple is doing here, and, in fact, they are following a USB specification (which LadyAda unfortunaterly didn't even test).
Without data communications or when suspended, devices may legally draw no more than 2.5mA from a host, which is useless for charging. In fact, even if you're generous and pretend they're connected, devices are not allowed to draw more than 100mA without negotiating for a higher current, which requires actually talking to the host, and 100mA is still too little to charge properly. 500mA is the maximum allowed by the USB spec, but devices must negotiate it (there may be too many devices on the bus for negotiation to succeed).
Before there was a spec for "dumb" USB chargers, Apple used the resistors as a sentinel to avoid drawing too much current from undersized chargers in order to avoid damaging the host. This is a hack, but it works, and honestly, we're smart enough to figure out a couple resistors on the data lines. It's not like they're using crypto auth on the charger. They have a perfectly valid reason to do this. Devices which charge from "dumb" chargers aren't following the spec, though this is a common industry practice.
As it turns out, the USB-IF came up with a USB Battery Charging spec [usb.org]. The spec is long and boring, but it boils down to: short together the data lines (no resistors required) and you indicate that you're a dumb charger that can supply anywhere from 0.5A to 1.5A.
Guess what happens when you short the data lines of an iPhone 3G and supply 5V [marcansoft.com]. Did Apple just follow a standard? Incredible!
(Yes, I'm not following the USB spec there by in turn using a USB cable to supply the 5V and not negotiating over its data lines. I didn't feel like grabbing a dedicated 5V PSU for the shot, so sue me.)"""
http://marcansoft.com/transf/iphonechg.jpg
ok ??? no need for resistors, only 5.3V MAX and d+ and d- shorted
Thnx for the tip gonna try this later on my sanyo eneloop power booster tried it yesterday without this mod and it doesn't charge so gonna look for a AF to AF converter and modify it to gound the D+ and D-
@adolfotregosa
I tried again shorting d-d+, with iphone it works but with GT it's not working.
I use BatteryWatch and it is saying Not Charging. It's detecting the connection like usb port but is not. I use some device build by myself with 1 amp capabilities. D- and D+ r free of any connection and i can do with them what i want.
I dont say you r wrong but it's not working with GT.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
but smt is wrong on your custom setup, voltage ??
EDIT: i just measure the original charger and it has no resistance between the data and power pins.
I think i know what could be wrong, when you plug in the Tab and it says not charging, how many volts have you got at that time ?
The original charger is very good because when it not charging the tab it has 5.3x volts but when you plug it in it lowers to 4.8x V Max and that is very good ! most chargers tend to lower much more (bad quality or just not powerful enough) and that is what causes the not charging messages on the tab or other devices.
Well i rest my case on this.
My device with no load it have 5.21v and with load 5.03v so it's not from him and i have another supply 5v/12 amp and it's doing the same (not charging, only with data shorted).
When u r trying to measure the original ps u can read ~7k between gnd and data but from 5v to data u cant because it have some capacitors.
Maybe samsund did something else, i have to try, maybe data pins drawing some current (mA) and that's why it's not working with only shorting them.
For the moment it's the only (working) solution i've found and i'm happy with it .
P.S. If i'm not finding anything else the last resort will be to open the original ps
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
USB Charger
This is what worked for me.
Items Needed:
USB Extension Cable
33k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-1129)
10k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-006)
Steps:
1. Cut USB Extension Cable in half, lets name the 2 halves, the half you will plug into the power suppy will be called "Cable A" and the half that you plug into the Galaxy Tab Data Cable will be called "Cable B"
2. On 'Cable A" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, eliminate Green and White on this cable only as it will not be needed, leaving you with only the Red and the Black Cables
3. On "Cable B" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, this should leave you exposing all 4 wires
4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.
5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.
6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.
7. No finally use Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing to cover all your work.
This worked using it on a Champtek 5v 2.1a USB Car Charger and Home Charger. Also worked with iPhone charger. Also works with Original Galaxy Tab.
Hope this helps out.
May I just ask some clarifying questions?
rick75204 said:
This is what worked for me.
...
4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does it matter WHICH resistor you join to which of these two wires?
rick75204 said:
5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So that you have effectively bridged the red wire with 30K-Ohms to one of either green or white running to the TAB?
rick75204 said:
6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And bridged the black wire with 10K-Ohms to the other of either green or white running to the TAB?
Would this be an accurate picture, with the 33K Ohm Resistor on the left, and the 10K Ohm Resistor on the right?
I think the intention was that you short the green and white wires together: so you are connecting both wires to both resistors.
That way the two data lines are both held at a fixed voltage of about 1.2V
Thanks, that clarified it.
I noticed today that if I connect my Tab to my keyboard (standard Apple USB KB with keypad, connected to a circa 2006 iMac), the device started charging according to battery stats. When it was plugged in it was at 48% and it ended up at around 60% after a few hours. Am I being deceived or something? I was under the impression that it would only charge if connected to the mains charger. Well I guess I'll see how long it runs now it's off the leash and see if it lasts till the morning (left my charging cable at work - D'oh!).
No, it definitely does charge even when it says it isn't - just slowly. I've got a 2A non-official USB charger that charges it up pretty quick, but still says it isn't charging. If the screen is off, it will even charge off one of those tiny Kindle chargers that must be delivering less than 500mA, but *really* slowly.
Clarify
Sorry guys, only a clarification.
As far as i understood:
the GT DOES charge with *any* charger (or connection to PC);
if you use the original charger (2Amp), it charges showing the charging-icon;
if you use a non-original charger, it charges in any case but NOT showing the charging-icon and depending on the charger power (even 1Amp charges, or 500mAmp, *VERY-REALLY* slowly);
if you use a non-original charger with the two resistors (33k + 10k) it charges showing the icon (even with a 1Amp).
Can anybody confirm if i understood well?
Thanks!!
eiem said:
Sorry guys, only a clarification.
As far as i understood:
the GT DOES charge with *any* charger (or connection to PC); Yes but slower than the original charger
if you use the original charger (2Amp), it charges showing the charging-icon; Yes, exactly
if you use a non-original charger, it charges in any case but NOT showing the charging-icon and depending on the charger power (even 1Amp charges, or 500mAmp, *VERY-REALLY* slowly); Yes.
if you use a non-original charger with the two resistors (33k + 10k) it charges showing the icon (even with a 1Amp). Depends, i get various results even though i am using the mod since day 1.
Can anybody confirm if i understood well?
Thanks!!
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Click to collapse
Thats it for now.
It seems that the Tab could recognize the status of the usb connection by measuring the usb data rx/tx wire level. If it is not shorted, the "pluged in but not in charging" status will appear, as the mismatch voltage of the usb connection is made.
Sent from my XT701 using XDA App
My battery discharged while I was travelling - it went to <10% and shut off by itself. I left the original HTC microusb over seas and so I used my old Motorola microusb to try to charge the phone. After leaving it overnight a number of times I thought the battery was dead. I ordered a new battery (from Mugen) and tried to charge that.
All I get is a flashing orange/red light. The phone does not turn on.
I have tried charging on both the AC charger and via PC usb port.
Are all MicroUSB cables universal? I can't get a straight answer about this from HTC's customer support. Every time I call someone gives me a different answer which leads me to believe that they have no clue what they are talking about.
Is there anything I can do to remedy this?
The HTC AC charger is rated at 5V 1A, while my old Moto charger is rated at 5.1V 850mA. Could I get a charge by using slightly higher voltage with lower amperes?
I really would like to avoid sending it back to manufacturer warranty so if there is any other alternate route I can take please let me know.
I have some cheap MicroUSB cables and they seem to charge very slowly compared to the HTC one. There may be a difference, but I suspect the cheap cables are just plain cheap.
No the Motorola charger wont have done it any harm, 0.1volt wont make a difference, and charging at a lower current is less likely to cause damage.
Could I have damaged the phone by using a different companies' cable?
Is there a chance that the phone is FUBAR? Should I be able to turn it on if its plugged into a power source even if the battery is dead?
please excuse the bump
need to know
*bump*
I've actually tried all the different combinations of charging and they all seem to work fine
I've tried a cheap microUSB cable with the official charger, official microUSB cable with iPhone charger, cheap microUSB cable with PC, another cheap microUSB cable in my friend's car, and even a Nokia microUSB cable in all the mentioned combinations
They all just gave different current readings (from CurrentWidget) but in the end they all worked well. I'm not sure if a Motorola microUSB would have modifications that cause incompatibilities though
I also tried different Micro-USB Cables and my DHD still works normally.
me too have the same problem. I got a total of 3 diff USB cable. One give me 330mA, one give me 120mA and one gave me only 50mA. i do not mind spending the money if i know how to choose a USB cable which can give me 330mA everytime i charge. Anyone knows how to spot the correct ones?
Neurosis said:
me too have the same problem. I got a total of 3 diff USB cable. One give me 330mA, one give me 120mA and one gave me only 50mA. i do not mind spending the money if i know how to choose a USB cable which can give me 330mA everytime i charge. Anyone knows how to spot the correct ones?
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Click to collapse
Any Blackberry USB cable should work..
used Motorola cable many times. No issues.
Might be a fluke that u busted ur phones charging system.
The USB cables are all the same and have no effect on charging current. The charging current is determined by how the two data lines within the cable are terminated in the charging device. If the data lines are left open ciruit, the phone interprets this as being a USB charger and will therefore only draw a maximum of 500mA to prevent damage to a PC's USB port. Chargers that are capable of delivering more current (such as a wall charger) connect the two data lines together. The phone then interprets this as being a charging device which is capable of delivering a higher current and will draw greater than 500mA. If you look at "Menu - Settings - About phone - Battery" it will state either "Charging (USB)" or "Charging (AC)" depending on what you are charging from.
I recently bought a custom 2 amp charger after the stock one died. Anyways, whenever I plug it in, I noticed that it would ask me whether I wanted to access the USB storage. Apps that need the SD card similarly, would terminate (ex: music).
Is there any way to solve this and to make the phone realize that this is a power outlet charger and not a USB charger? I think that the Epic drew about 650 milliamps or so charging and much smaller over PC (I think about 350 to 400 ish IIRC). It seems to currently only be charging at PC USB speeds as well and not the same rate as the stock charger.
Thanks in advance.
There's a way for the phone to tell if it's connected to a PC or AC adapter depending on a resistor shorting out two pins. Make sure you don't have anything other than the +5V and Ground connected.
I had the same thing happen with a car charger. Bridging / shorting the data pins causes the Epic to see the charger as a regular charger, and not usb for data or charging. This can also be done in the cable, itself, however, then you have the problem of having to cut part of your USB cable and re-tape or heat-shrink tube it.
There's a couple threads discussing similar problems/solutions:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=908363
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=709226