This little guide should help newcomers to find some practical tips and the right technique for 3d printing projects.
3D printing isn't expensive or hard to learn when you are able to operate a PC(no, not a playstation or xbox) and repair it by replacing a motherboard or it's components.
It is very useful to produce something that does not exist on this planet and you can't buy for money, like clip for your tablecloth(yeah, I've printed some for my table).
Also it can be cheaper to print spare parts rather to buy new producrs. I've printed a steering lever for my sons RC car for example whcih was broken and wasn't able to drive stright on anymore. So it sost me ~less than 1$ at all to fix this rather to throw the car away and buy a new one - safes the planet!
So here we go with a little overview:
3D printing technologies
Materials
Software
Firmware
Tuning/repairing your printer
Common problems
For questions or discussion please head over here
1. 3D printing technologies
I'll describe the most common technologies of 3d printers for private usage, as there are a lot way more 3d printing technologies used in industrial environments (Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) for example)
but they have prices of several thosand $ so no the scope we want to deal with at home
Spoiler: Stereolithography (SLA) Printers
Those printers are using liquid plastic and UV light. The liquid plastic, called resin, changes his properties from liquid to solid when it get's exposed to light. Similar like dentists filling your teeth and exposing the infill to an UV light. The resin is inside a tank and the UV light is controlled with a LCD mask to light up only specific parts of the resin to produce a picture, like on a a LCD monitor. The resin will get hard on the print surface which will be pulled out a little bit an then the next layer will be exposed to UV light and with the LSC mask.
The resin needs to be handled with care and cured after printing too. It smells and should only be handled with gloves and goggles.
So using those type of printers is only for seperate rooms without kinds around.
The good thing is, you can print very small detailed things(resolution of down to .035mm on the XY axes) depending on the resolution of the printer compared to FDM for example. A printer costs several hundred $ or more depending on the resolution and size plus the curing machine and the resin. More information, see wikipedia.
Spoiler: Fused deposition modeling (FDM) Printers
The most common, cheapest and secure printing technology for private usage.
The printer melts thermoplastic, called filament, from a spool and adding layer after layer to build an 3d object. Same procedure as a glue gun with glue sticks. but a print head moved on the x and y axis to melt down the filament on the built surface. The head will be lifted up a little bit on z axis until one layer is printed.
No curing afterwards, no smell(except for ABS or some specific thermoplastics), and safe to operate since the filament is not dangerous. Personally this type of printers is the best way for everyday objects and also mechanical designs where you can have issues with SLA due to the weak strength.
Also cool: You can print colored models either by switching the filament to another color at a specific point or using dual print heads or multi filament system. That's not possible with SLA printers.
Resolutions(layer high on z axis) of 0.1mm and 0.1-1.0mm in y and x direction are common and they are really cheap. For 160$ or less you can buy new printers + filament. Better ones are twice the price but are bigger or have smarter features. More information, see wikipedia.
2. Materials
Coming to materials we need to check whether it's for a FDM or a SLA printer, sure, that's easy cause all resin bottles are not for FDM printers and vice versa with filament.
Spoiler: Resin for SLA Printers
Most SLA printers are using a photopolymer which cures by around 405 nm of light which makes things easy when changing the printer or the material.
No temperature ranges or environment temperatures to take care of(not so crucial like FDM printing) but also each material needs it's own settings, especially the cure time.
You also have to wash your finnished print with IPA to get rid of resin(which is hazardous) wearing gloves, goggles and even a mask is useful. Then it needs to be cured again with UV light some minutes.
An overview of different resin types can be found here.
Spoiler: Filament for FDM Printers
Thermoplastic that melt at s specific temperature range(180-280°C) is needed for those machines, typically 1,75mm diameter is the common one. You'll find ABS and PETG(which is the same as a PET bottle, just optimized) in the tables below which are thermoplastics you find in everyday objects you can buy hence you know how stable they can be or how good the properties to form them are.
PLA is a specific Polymer which is made from natural substances and the most common, easy to print thermoplastic for FDM printers. But it's not really biologic and you cannot throw it into the nature
There are a lot of guides, overviews and tables out there where you can gather information which filament fits best for you, so I'll link you 3 guides which are my source for information when it comes to check the properties of filament for my project needs:
One
Two
Three --> great for comparison!
There are things to know for newcomers:
One material, PETG for example, can have different properties within a specific range
The same material from a different manufacturer can have different properties
Different properties are printing temperature, bed temperature, strength and the look
This is why all manufacturers give only ranges for the latter one cause printers are also not unique across all manufacturers.
You need to make test prints with your unique setup to find the best settings for your project
This is not a lot of work, but worth to do once you're changing to new material, especially from a different manufacturer
3. Software
When it comes to software for 3D printing there are 3 specific categories:
3D Modeling software(create virtual objects)Sure, printing out existing models from thingiverse.com or cults3d is fun, but why not starting to build something unique on your own? You need something that isn't available anywhere, a spare part for example? A toilet brush holder that looks like a heart?
This needs to be done with a drawing program, but, in the 3rd dimension, so paint or photoshop isn't here the key(but you can start with a 2D model for sure)
There a plenty of 3D modeling softwares out there, but I'll just show you some common ones which I'm using too and they are all free!!!
Spoiler: Tinkercad
Well this might be the starting point as a beginner. When you are able to build with wooden blocks when you were a child, you can simply operate this free online tool on tinkercad.com(registration needed)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Drag objects with the left mouse button from the side panel to the build surface in the middle, that's it!
You can stack, move, substract or merge them into groups. Resize them or give them exact measures.
Then siply click on export in the upper right corner and save as .stl whcih is the common format of a 3D printable object. You can also import the same file type or SVG images created with 2D programs like photoshop and make them 3D!
Easy to operate program!
Spoiler: Freecad
For more advanced modeling(not like minecraft) you'll need a program where you can make 2D sketches and extrude them into a 3D object(like you can do in tinkercad with .svg).
FreeCad is a good choice and...free. I like it but it's not as easy to learn like Fusion360 with many help and explanation buttons
nevertheless, you can find everything you probably need to make complex objects or easy ones like the nozze above which I've designed from a 2D sketch and then using the revolution function to rotate the sketch around the X axis to become an 3D object
Spoiler: Fusion360
As already mentioned, Fusion360 is similar but a little easier to operate. But you can also start with a 2D sketch, then extrude, add other 2D sketches and extrude them again to combine different objects
I like the history funtion on the lower left where you can jumt to any point and change them and also the cut view is nice to show what wall thickness you have
Slicer (Prepare the virtual objects for your printer, like translating them into machine language)
Spoiler
Since FDM and SLA are additive technologies for 3D printing someone must tell the printer how a ball should be printed for example.
Imagine you want to print a ball of 5cm diameter with a glue gun, so you have to add several molten lines of glue above each other in a round circle until it becomes a ball, right?
This is what a slicher(to slice) software does for you. You load an .stl file into the program, hit slice and the model get's devided into slices(like when you slice an apple). This machine readyble code file can be safed and transfered to the printer. That's it.
There a a lot of slicers out there like Ultimaker Cura or Simplify3D or PrusaSlicer. All are operating the same way in general but have here and there better views or knobs and features where you can modify your print speed, setting for quality or look and also reduce the material to waste as little as possible.
Most of them can handle both SLA and FDM printers when you select the machine hence you have the same .stl model bu you can generate a different machine readable file either for SLS or FDM printers.
Ultimaker Cura for example has some cool and free addons in a marketplace like post processing, custom supports or calibration shapes. Also a extended settings guide is very useful to install!
In fact when you design a model you have to tinker about how your slicer can be translate this. If you create 3mm walls in tinkercad but your FDM printer has only a 0.5mm nozzle it might be cumbersome to print a smaller wall with a large nozzle.
Ultimaker Cura looks like this when opening a .stl 3D object file:
After hitting the Slice button in the lower left corner you'll see the "slices" and lines which your 3D printer(FDM) will understand:
Furthermore, near the lower left blue botton you'll see the estimated print time as well as the material amount in gramm or meter and, if set, the cost of the print(here 0,74€).
So you see it is not expensive at all(adding the power consumption of the printer).
Tools (to make it easier to operate your printer or create your objects)
Those are optional and mostly for convenient reasons, but can help a lot to organize your day. Especialy a camera to watch your printer in the basement while you're in your garden.
You can tranfer your objects to a print server when you running OctoPrint on a RaspberryPi for timelapses or automated printing and surveillance.
4. FirmwareA 3D printer is a machine like your smartphone and has hardware like motors and sensors(or light source and LCD screen on SLA) which are controlled by a mainboard and it's firmware.
The most common firmware, especially for FDM printers is Marlin which was found in 2011 for the RepRap project and used by dozens of different printers today. There are also forked projects like jyers which have nice additions or UI menues.
The firmware is open source and specific configuration files can be found here. You can easily modify it for your own printer, for example when you replace or modify parts or add sensors, replacing the motherboard etc., compile it using platform.io and flashing the firmware to your printer.
More advanced firmware for 3D printers is klipper. You need an external PC(like a Raspberry Pi) where you run it, but the advantage is, that the calculations for speed, accelerations and hotend pressure are faster and more reliable than on your slow 8bit printers mainboard.
5. Tuning/repairing your printerFDM printers offer more mods or tuning capabilities than SLA due to the various settings and mechanics.
So I'll focus on FDM mainly.
If you buy a Pruse i3 MK3s for 1000$ you probaly won't need any mod at all, but if you start with a 160$ i3 style clone printer there must be some space for the price range and this is the quality and the features you can buy or not.
That said, low price = low print quality, less or no support, slow printing, less features.
In general this is the same as with a cheap drill driver but it depends on your needs espeacially the quality you want to have or how long you want to wait of your print to be finished.
Also watch out for printers for which you can buy spare parts(or print them at your own like for Prusa printers, they offering open source models of them) or not. Common Creality Ender 3 or 5 printers have a huge community and you can buy plenty of spare parts for really cheap prices.
Not so common, high price printers can have not a big community and replacing a motherborad can be expensive for example!
When you want to tune your printer you need to understand why you have to do so.
Replacing a print bed when you have bad bed adhesion can have other reasons too(temperature, nozzle distance, speed). So just replacing somthing when you read this is necessary is the wrong way.
Every printer comes pre assembled(except SLA. Prusa or high price printers can be sold pretested and assembled, like a multimeter) and not tested from the factory. So you have to finish the printer and start to calibrate it, like you do on a inkjet printer for example.
That means, you are most likely the reason why the printer isn't printing like expected. But also why they are so cheap, ok?
tbd
6. Common problems (FDM printers)As already mentiond in part 5, most likely your are the reason for most problems that occur during the printers life.
Whether it's out of the box during assembling or later when using wrong settings. Only a few printers can calibrate or troubleshoot on it's own.
Some low price printers have a bad reputation due to missing quality control which can have impact on the print quality(layer shifting, z axis binding) but most problems can be fixed on your own
By printing test prints like a xyz test cube for example, you can check whether your printer has dimensional accuracy or not or other mechanical issues like shifted layers. Fixing those issues one after one is not that hard but needs some time and preparation.
In general, setting up a 3D FDM printer should follow this scheme:
Bed leveling and nozzle distance to the bed(depending on step 2)
Steps of the extruder motor per mm (I'm using one-wall tests and one layer tests)
Steps of the x, y, z motors by using defined test shapes for accuracy
Stringing/retraction test and settings to improve the quality
More to check are flow rates and compensations, but in my opinion this is not necessary when you have checked the 4 steps before.
Most of the settings have relations to each other.
Example:
When your hotend melts less material than expected cause your extruder does not transport as much as he should, then less material have a chance to stick to the bed hence you need to lower the distance between your bed and your nozzle.
tbd
Awesome guide @strongst -- great info.
Related
So just out of curiosity I've have been looking at couple 3D printers... They're outrageously expensive... Will they ever have affordable 3D printers for hoe use?
And people that own them... What can you make with them?
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I would rather just buy a real hoe instead of printing one
I'm sure in time the tech will advance enough to allow everyday folks to have one, but like all new technologies it will take a good while.
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.
Thread moved to Q&A due to it being a question. Would advise you to read forum rules and post in correct section.
3D printers are cool technology but not really designed for private use or mass production
most of them work by laying small strips of plastic and forming them together. These strips normally are all the same width (say you have a machine that prints a 1mm strip and you want a something to be printed at a width of 1.5 mm you going to get 1 or 2mm so these aren't necessarily that accurate)
Some high end machines solidify a jelly by crossing two lasers.
These printers are manly used as a engineering tool to print of a visual model of something you have designed on a 3D rendering program (pro E, solid edge...) It would only print off a solid prototype to help the design of the final product.
So unless some one fundamentally change the design I don't see a 3D printer being available to the public. The materials to make one normal sized print can cost $10-30. Plus it can take hours.
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The fast forward 10 years is pretty cool. Nowadays we can get 3D printers for 300$ doing 0.2mm strips, and the material to make one print is below 1$. There hasn't been any major change to the technology, just continuous improvement.
phhusson said:
The fast forward 10 years is pretty cool. Nowadays we can get 3D printers for 300$ doing 0.2mm strips, and the material to make one print is below 1$. There hasn't been any major change to the technology, just continuous improvement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Changes be coming. Closed loop control for extrusion, laser preheating, printer mechanical component health monitoring..
I agree with 3D printers being expensive but they are not easy to handle therefore the ones who can actually use them should buy them. It is also the upcoming technology therefore the chances of upgrading is there.
>They're outrageously expensive...
I guess that depends on one's definition of expensive. I believe you can buy and mod a very decent printer for around 250-270$, which is around the price, if not less, most people spend almost yearly for a new phone, and in comparison, a 3d printer is actually useful.
>And people that own them... What can you make with them?
Almost anything really. Print new things for your printer, print things to fix things around the house, print prototypes, print things for your car, print things to make some things easier, print a lot of holders for things, print niche things that you can't buy, print things for the garden, print adapters, print cases, print toys for kids, etc. If you can model, you can go all out. In the end they absolutely pay off, you learn to do more things yourself, be more self-sufficient, save money, and have fun!
wayase8080 said:
>They're outrageously expensive...
I guess that depends on one's definition of expensive. I believe you can buy and mod a very decent printer for around 250-270$, which is around the price, if not less, most people spend almost yearly for a new phone, and in comparison, a 3d printer is actually useful.
>And people that own them... What can you make with them?
Almost anything really. Print new things for your printer, print things to fix things around the house, print prototypes, print things for your car, print things to make some things easier, print a lot of holders for things, print niche things that you can't buy, print things for the garden, print adapters, print cases, print toys for kids, etc. If you can model, you can go all out. In the end they absolutely pay off, you learn to do more things yourself, be more self-sufficient, save money, and have fun!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I repair things where are no spare parts available. I build things which you can't buy
I just like one benefit of 3d printer,
You can more realize things like it is more beneficial for the students.
boloteh said:
I figured this would be a great place to ask about 3D printing Star Wars Clone Helmets. I have been looking into purchasing a printer to expand my helmet collection as well as other props and wondered what advice anyone could give. My budget is around $1,000 and I would like to print the helmets in one print. I know nothing about 3D printing but am eager to learn. I would prefer something that will work well out of the box but I also don't mind doing modifications. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Printing such helmets in one print won't work due to the details and complexity. You have to print several parts and put them together.
I have no experience with electronic repair, but I would like to get into building electronic boards as a hobby. I'll start with a simple stripboard, and hopefully start working on more advanced chips within a few months. (I had to learn Diagnostic Microbiology - specifically, Bacteriology - in less than a month, so I think I can handle the BASICS of this hobby fairly well.)
Please note that I won't be cluttering up this forum with trivial questions, as I'm more than happy to search online for questions that I may have. I posted to the Hardware Hacking forum so that I might directly inquire as to how to best start off in this hobby, by ensuring that this thread had the maximum chance of being reviewed by a knowledgeable source.
My question is how I might go about putting together a suitable KIT to get me going. I'd like input before I go off buying various kits, only to become more knowledgeable in the field and realize that I should have spent my money more wisely. My first project would be to build a POGO pin to OTG host cable, but I hope to progress far beyond that in the upcoming months.
I've found a couple of kits at makershedDOTcom. Should I invest in them, or build my own? I'd just search for what I'd need in a kit, but I have no idea if my finding would be accurate or just a waste of time.
Thank you for any information you are willing to provide.
Regards,
POPE3909
If you want to just master basic electronic assembly skills, get a Velleman kit and do some soldering.
If you want to learn more experimenter analog electronics, get a protoboard and $20 of parts to play with.
Radio Shack still sells their "Engineer's Mini Notebooks".
For playing with digital interfacing and programming an Arduino is not bad.
Maybe a Raspberry Pi is more your thing.
I've had fun with theTeensy.
POPE3909 said:
I have no experience with electronic repair, but I would like to get into building electronic boards as a hobby. I'll start with a simple stripboard, and hopefully start working on more advanced chips within a few months. (I had to learn Diagnostic Microbiology - specifically, Bacteriology - in less than a month, so I think I can handle the BASICS of this hobby fairly well.)
Regards,
POPE3909
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dear POPE3909
To get better direction you need to tell what is prior experience. Can you program? Do you know basics of electrical and electronic circuits?
In any case I would advise to buy a kit with variety of components and possibly Arduino board. It's fun and gives quick gratification.
Radio Shack has a few. It does not matter where to buy it matters how good is support or availability of information.
Good luck!
Hello. As an alternative to getting just some kit, you can also get a cheap, damaged android phone to play around with on some certain auction site. For example, you can get an HTC myTouch 3G Slide (a.k.a. Espresso) with a cracked screen for about $30 or less. This device is very easy to disassemble & reassemble, & just to play around with in general. If you really want to get into electronics, you should consider this as well. There are plenty of damaged, but still working phones that you can get for very cheap.
Modern technology tends to be so highly integrated that it's not a great place to start learning - for example, while identifying the chips in a phone can be an interesting exercise, you're very limited in terms of what you can actually do with a soldering iron.
You're going to want some tools, no matter what you do.
Get a decent soldering iron - if not the cheapest then at least the second cheapest! You can solder with anything but some are a lot easier to use than others. Make sure to get an electronic soldering iron - there are some that look similar but put out way too much heat, which can damage components, especially if you're new to this stuff. Bigger is not necessarily better.
I don't know if you can solder already, but if you can't - practise! Remember you want to heat the materials you want to join, then melt the solder on to them; if you just melt solder on top it'll blob and not make a good connection.
Good side cutters are invaluable. Get some that you use for wire, and never use them for anything else (like coat hangers, tin can lids, etc) - you need straight sharp edges to cut fine wires and you'll be very frustrated if they're not. This style of flush cutter is pretty good: http://dx.com/p/rewin-5-electronic-wire-cutter-yellow-black-116062
Side cutters also make great wire strippers. Nibble around the edges of the insulation, then use the flat side to grab and yank it off. Takes some practise but it's very fast - I find it easier than using dedicated strippers.
You also want a multimeter. Doesn't have to be anything fancy - a $10 one will do. Make sure it has a resistance or continuity setting because one of the main things you'll want it for is checking connections.
As for what you start out with making - it really depends what interests you. If you're totally new then kits can be great - can be good for delivering encouraging results, making something that actually does a thing.
On a more basic level, you can do a lot of things with resistors, capacitors, LEDs, and transistors. Your local electronics shop will probably have mixed bags of all those 4 categories and they are really good to keep around.
Thanks.
So.. u r up2 it. In my case i started as an electronics hobbyist b4 15 years. And now i am an electronics & electrical engineer. What that matters is not your interest. But your passion. Give it a try only if you are willing to make it your passion, i said it becoz, electronics is always practical and less theory, in many cases theory wont help u to solve ur tasks, but a solid practical knowledge will do. And believe me, it will eat up ur patience and brain. So it must be a passion more than interest. I am not discouraging you, but i am telling the fact. The best thing about it is " that mighty feeling" u get when u do complete some thing u started ( and when it works!).
So start it with basic tools. A decent soldering iron, a 16-18 swg 60/40 lead,soldering flux,a set of screwdrivers, knife,pliers,tweezers, etc.
Start doing simple circuits like led blinkers,melody generators,light chasers,etc.. then do what developers called as analysis and debugging, ie try changing component values( mostly try experiments with passive components like resistors,capacitors etc).
My story started with LEDs ,bulbs,dc motors, then i started building disco lights with LEDs, then tried melody generators, then i stepped to transmitters, then amplifiers, microcontroller, etc..
knowing about components and its effects is the basic of every thing.
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I agree with showlyshah, get all the basic electronic components and work your way up. The two "Make: Electronics" kits and the book on MakerShed are a good start and aren't bad value for money. I built my own kit by buying the individual parts but it's not much cheaper and some parts used in the book might be difficult to find.
Arduino (or similar) is a great way to transition to electronics from programming and is probably the best path if you want to keep in the digital/programming side. All the electronic components you buy can be used in some way with an Arduino.
There are so many resources out there that can help guide you. My favourite electronics forum is eevblog, from there you can branch out and find many other great resources.
You can find like minded people at a hackerspace in your area. Google is your friend.
I'd strongly suggest getting started with Arduino hardware - possibly, if you want to learn a bit more about wiring things up instead of just plugging in shields, an Adafruit Boarduino.
Another thing I personally suggest - Arduinos are pretty much just AVR ATMega dev boards. Rather than use the Arduino IDE, get an AVR ISP programmer (like the USBTinyISP) and start with AVR-GCC. The initial learning curve is a bit steeper, but you learn a lot more about how to efficiently use the underlying hardware, and you'll be able to retarget the stuff you write (for example, down into a Tiny85) much more easily.
As i said earlier, it is better to work around some small components b4 burning expensive ic's. The reason is to build up the knowledge of how components work in real time, even to know the specs of components is a great knowledge, eg:- u cant just use any pnp/ npn transistor in any circuits which need them, gain,current,voltage,temperature values are some basic.
Let me get into another serious example:- most microcontroller boards contains direct drive for some analog devices like leds, small motors etc.. some of those boards use direct o/p from microcontroller ( most pic ic's have it), others use ic/transistor drivers. And when u play with it, for instance , u programmed a stepper motor driver circuit, and is connecting the o/p to a heavy current stepper with out a proper driver circuit.. the story ends!!! The moral knowledge( aka technical knowledge) microcontroller's are not "Thor" to pass lighting through it! Of course u need his hammer ( in this case, the driver) to do that kind of s##t.
So my point is burn the hell out of some analog ic( LM 2030 dual power audio ic is a good option to see how an ic explodes in case of o/p short( with out protection diodes) )power imbalance etc) , explode some filter capacitors ( works great with dual supplies), barbeque some transistors and resistors( motors are ur companion), see what colours a 3.2 v led can produce when run at 6v( yellow light from red, blue light from white are my fav) or if u are smart u can burn the pcb also( high current dc( lead acid batteries can do the trick with out much personal damage)., get used with these stuffs for a while, ask pardon to family members, shout at friends, electrify pets, make holes on ur fav dress.. and become a hobbiest.. then step into developer world with that base, and then u will never miss valuable hits.
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* MODS, IDK if this is the right location, or even belongs on XDA at all. Move or delete as you so choose.
Hey all,
Happy New Year!!!!!
I've been absent from XDA, especially the development side, for a loooooong time. But I wanted to share.
Well, I got a new RAZER phone 2 (black satin) and a 3D printer for the holidays, so I decided to learn how to use the 3D printer by making a cooling controller grip for the phone. (So I can kick even more ass in COD and PUBG, among others - lol)
Anywho, this is a work in progress, but I thought I'd share it to see what people think, especially since the xda RAZER 2 forums are basically a ghost town!
* Cools phone and hands (attatch a fan!)
* Made to have a 40x40x20mm fan inserted from the top, (40x40x10 ok, also)
* Ergonomic cooling design, game better - longer
* Helps keep you from rubbing on charge port while charging and gaming
* Motor can be connected to a canibalized USB or OTG cable for a phone powered fan, & theoretically turned on and off with a "stop charge" root app. Or a 9volt battery. Use your imagination.
* Designed for the volume buttons to be on the bottom.
* Front Facing Camera unhindered for twitch streaming
* Easier to grip one-handed while multimediaing
* Keeps speakers unhindered for better audio (your hand doesnt block or cover them while gaming-FPS' mostly, I suppose
* Access to power button (I dont use it, though. I use the tap feature to wake and sleep device.)
* May work with other cases, but it was speciffically designed to fit the phone WITH a TUDIA case ON. (It's a great case)
* Made to fit the vast majority of Ebay/Amazon mobile triggers
* Its my first 3D design/print/mod, so be constructive, not rude.
* Pics below from early test version printed in low quality, neither sanded nor prepped
* Original design from thingverse user glang25, but it's heavily modded for our device.
* Licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.
I know, I went a bit crazy with the RAZER logos, but I do adore this new phone!
V1.4
*initial "release"
should fit a 40x40x10 fan.
Next version will support my preferred 40x40x20 fan.
V1.5
Model is bugged, currently reworking it
V2
Major rework of structure points.
Now fits up to 40x40x20mm fan
Minor adjusments to make phone fit better
Slight adjustments to the controller/grip shape
Pictures of unprepped low quality print of V2, in black, w/fan and phone, added below
Future hopes/wish list:
* Fit in a ON/OFF switch.
* Add USB rechargeable battery that can somehow charge the phone also.
* Add a "kickstand"
* Make Camera more accessible, specifcally for ARCore (Augmented Reality) gameplay.
* Design and implement built in 3D printed Ebay/Amazon style mobile triggers
* Add air vents to cool screen, also
* ??
* Future hopes/wish list items are not promised. Nor is future development/modding.
Ive included the .STL file for you to 3D print, if you so choose. Just let us all know you did, give recognition &....maybe post picks?? Its sandable and paintable!
Mod it all you want!
Design is offered as is, with no promises nor liability implied.
PRINTING NOTES/PRINTER SETTINGS
Printed with: Ender 5
Slicing program: Creality Slicer 1.2.3
Rafts: Yes
Supports: Yes
Resolution: 0.15 mm
Infill: 15%
Material Type: PLA (but you can use anything you like, really)
Material Amount: 46.18 meters, 138 grams
Print time: 16hrs 47 minutes
*licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.
This is a interesting idea, but doesn't the RP2 dissipate heat thru the screen not the back?
hackthis02 said:
This is a interesting idea, but doesn't the RP2 dissipate heat thru the screen not the back?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume it's from the back, as that's where the vapor chamber is. Also the pro case has vents on the back.
Saying that, I do notice the screen gets warm also. The phones aluminum frame seems to do a good job dissipating heat evenly. I might add a vent channel that hits the screen also.
Side note, just got the RAZER pro cooling case, AND will do tests. Might even adjust my print to fit it as the new case is actually thicker than the Tudia one. I use CPU float to check CPU, GPU and battery temps.
Also just got the Junglecat; currently messing with a better way to attach it to phone WITHOUT removing my cooling case and using that heat trapping Chroma blocking flimsy Junglecat one.
I've also made a landscape phone holder that can have your own qi coils placed inside. It's strong but very thin so I get maximum wireless charge. It still allows the Junglecat, while attached to phone, to wireless charge.
I printed mine clear, so that my Chroma lights up the whole dock at night
Curious if anyone is interested in those. (Junglecat one still being worked on.) - FINISHED!
To the users who voted "NOT INTERESTED" and "NOT READY YET"
Have any suggestions, or constructive criticism? I know this design isn't for everyone, but any thoughts?
Yo gents, let's discuss about this awesome hobby(or maybe business for some of you?) which is growing a lot since several years and also affordable more and more.
I'm using a modified Ender 3 v2 within a closet to keep temps close with ABS:
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What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
Let's see some comments!
res
You 3D printed a soap?
karandpr said:
You 3D printed a soap?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah, its the soap tray silly!
karandpr said:
You 3D printed a soap?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the soapholder, but yeah, you can also 3d print a soap, depending how soft(or not) your skin is, you need a "harder" soap
Yep, I've been 3D printing for around 8 months now. Absolutely love it. It can be very addictive and satisfying, but can also be one of the most frustrating things when it doesn't go quite right!
I also use an Ender 3 V2. I find it does everything I need it to. I've mostly been making functional stuff like you have in the photos. Mainly use PLA+ and occasional PETG.
I've always used Cura, and printing via OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pie. Been doing some reading on Klipper, and may have a play with that sometime.
I'm currently printing some autorewind filament spool holders. Some people are so smart to come up with engineered stuff like this. It blows me away.
I am a total noob regarding 3D printing, my son who is 14 y/o had the chance to get one for Christmas (group gift from our family). He's so lucky.
He owns a Creality CR-10S Pro V2
He knows a lot more than me already, he learnt how to use it at school. He has no account on XDA, so I will possibly post here on his behalf, LOL.
Let's clear this out, that was not a hidden self-gift!! but now that he owns it, our family and I will profit for sure
> First tests:
Day one
Day two
There is no much potential with those 3D printers!
I think having a section on XDA is great and I hope people will share their knowledge, files, firmware, etc.
I have an Ender-3 Pro. My favorite filament is a silver PLA, creates great looking objects.
Haven't spent much time with it lately but my first mod would definitely be a self-leveller as the hardest thing is getting it levelled and then having to print something to make sure it's actually levelled properly.
But, lots of fun, and the kids (and me) really enjoy the prints!
bitpushr said:
I have an Ender-3 Pro. My favorite filament is a silver PLA, creates great looking objects.
Haven't spent much time with it lately but my first mod would definitely be a self-leveller as the hardest thing is getting it levelled and then having to print something to make sure it's actually levelled properly.
But, lots of fun, and the kids (and me) really enjoy the prints!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacing the stock soft bed level springs with silicon bumpers or stiffer springs can help a lot even without auto bed leveling
What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
I usually use an Ender 3 pro V1, and mostly PLA and PET-G, The best material for me is a gray PLA from Polymaker.
I use a Cura 3D slicer, and Fusion 360 for modelling. What have i designed and printed? Many things. For example, now i am building a chassis frame for Autel evo 2 pro drone, sometimes i print also parts for home used things, like a blender or smth... But mostly i design and print parts for drones.
macizet_legacy said:
What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
I usually use an Ender 3 pro V1, and mostly PLA and PET-G, The best material for me is a gray PLA from Polymaker.
I use a Cura 3D slicer, and Fusion 360 for modelling. What have i designed and printed? Many things. For example, now i am building a chassis frame for Autel evo 2 pro drone, sometimes i print also parts for home used things, like a blender or smth... But mostly i design and print parts for drones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks for the insight! Any mods on your printer or custom firmware?
Do you have link for the gray Polymaker PLA as I want to try Polymaker... Currently I'm using gray Geeetech PLA which is good imo.
strongst said:
Cool, thanks for the insight! Any mods on your printer or custom firmware?
Do you have link for the gray Polymaker PLA as I want to try Polymaker... Currently I'm using gray Geeetech PLA which is good imo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't use firmware mods on my Ender, but I've printed these things from thingiverse:
Ender 3 Display LCD PCB Cover by Rocco81-92
A tip as appreciation is welcome. Backcover for the new Ender-3 Display. Hi, i used four countersunk (2x M3x10 / 2x M3x16 (M3x18 work too) 02.12.2018 added a new version on request from "DOC73", a version for 3 plug use. 16.08.2018 added two new closed Versions for factory srews, one with...
www.thingiverse.com
Creality Ender-3 Display Ribbon Cable Clip by gn-jr
Clip to tide up ribbon cable from controller to display Ender-3 Printer, print it sideway so you don't need any support.
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 / CR-10 Tool Holder by DantRush
This is a press-fit tool holder for the creality Ender 3. It's super easy to mount and it doesn't need to screw anything. UPDATE! I updated a second file which can also hold the scrapper tool without any bolts. FILES: tool_holder - The one without scrapper (Printed in grey)...
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 Cable Chain by johnniewhiskey
Update [10:53 PM 2018-06-16] Added parts assembly guide image cableChain_link_v3.stl Not constraint hinge to 1 direction anymore (But v2 still work fine) 15 links for heatbed, 10-15 links for gantry. cableChain_bedCorner_v2.stl (and Cover) Easier Snap assembly and disassembly...
www.thingiverse.com
And here's the link for polymaker :
PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA 750 g / rolka Czarno-biały / biały / szary Filament do drukarki 3D
Tylko US$46.19, kup najlepszy sklep internetowy PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA Filament do drukarki 3D 750g / rolka czarny / biały / szary w cenie hurtowej.
pl.banggood.com
I hope that will help
macizet_legacy said:
I don't use firmware mods on my Ender, but I've printed these things from thingiverse:
Ender 3 Display LCD PCB Cover by Rocco81-92
A tip as appreciation is welcome. Backcover for the new Ender-3 Display. Hi, i used four countersunk (2x M3x10 / 2x M3x16 (M3x18 work too) 02.12.2018 added a new version on request from "DOC73", a version for 3 plug use. 16.08.2018 added two new closed Versions for factory srews, one with...
www.thingiverse.com
Creality Ender-3 Display Ribbon Cable Clip by gn-jr
Clip to tide up ribbon cable from controller to display Ender-3 Printer, print it sideway so you don't need any support.
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 / CR-10 Tool Holder by DantRush
This is a press-fit tool holder for the creality Ender 3. It's super easy to mount and it doesn't need to screw anything. UPDATE! I updated a second file which can also hold the scrapper tool without any bolts. FILES: tool_holder - The one without scrapper (Printed in grey)...
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 Cable Chain by johnniewhiskey
Update [10:53 PM 2018-06-16] Added parts assembly guide image cableChain_link_v3.stl Not constraint hinge to 1 direction anymore (But v2 still work fine) 15 links for heatbed, 10-15 links for gantry. cableChain_bedCorner_v2.stl (and Cover) Easier Snap assembly and disassembly...
www.thingiverse.com
And here's the link for polymaker :
PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA 750 g / rolka Czarno-biały / biały / szary Filament do drukarki 3D
Tylko US$46.19, kup najlepszy sklep internetowy PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA Filament do drukarki 3D 750g / rolka czarny / biały / szary w cenie hurtowej.
pl.banggood.com
I hope that will help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, you're using Poly Lite not PolyTerra? I wanted to try PolyTerra as I want to get rid of the empty plastic spools(and I already have spool container)
strongst said:
Thanks, you're using Poly Lite not PolyTerra? I wanted to try PolyTerra as I want to get rid of the empty plastic spools(and I already have spool container)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, i am using poly lite i've never tried polyterra, maybe it's time to try
stevejhons12 said:
Yes, I've been 3D printing for around 2 years now. I absolutely like it. It can be very addictive and satisfying, but can also be one of the most frustrating things when it doesn't go quite right!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bed leveling for example
Do you also use acetone / pla
strongst said:
Yo gents, let's discuss about this awesome hobby(or maybe business for some of you?) which is growing a lot since several years and also affordable more and more.
I'm using a modified Ender 3 v2 within a closet to keep temps close with ABS:
View attachment 5500647
What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
Let's see some comments!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you also use acetone / plastic mixtures to secure your print to the table?
Just wondering if maybe my humidity changes a lot compared to other people.
Thanks!
hwk2014 said:
Do you also use acetone / pla
Do you also use acetone / plastic mixtures to secure your print to the table?
Just wondering if maybe my humidity changes a lot compared to other people.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most stickness problems occur due to bad bed leving or temperature changes. But also false temperatures can have an impact. Which setting do you use?
Acetone and PLA don't work, PLA is acetone safe. Acetone only works with ABS.
I'm using a double sided steel bed with a PEI or rough coating which works fine with PLA and PETG(which has a strong bed adhesion and can damage glass beds)
{Mod edit: Quoted post has been deleted}
Depends on your budget, the max object size and technology?!
Ripped the ribbon cable for the LCD on my Elegoo Mars resin printer when changing the fan for something a little quieter. Must have been absolutely rough as a dog with it
Didn't realise until I tried to print something and nothing printed after a couple hours, thought maybe my print got stuck to the FEP but no it was a ripped ribbon cable on the LCD.
Finally the new screen came today and we are all up and running again.
All I've been hearing from my 3 year old the last week is "Daaaaaaaad? Where's my paw patrol badge, you said you would make me a paw patrol badge"
Finally she has her badge to colour in for the day. Happy kid, happy daddy
Additionally, I employ Creality Ender 3 V2. This is extremely great, however I'm using an Ideamaker slicer, PLA and ABS materials, Thinkercad software, and my own custom firmware. Everything is fine, however the printed object doesn't have sharp, distinct edges.
* MODS, IDK if this is the right location, or even belongs on XDA at all. Move or delete as you so choose.
Hey all,
Happy New Year!!!!!
I've been absent from XDA, especially the development side, for a loooooong time. But I wanted to share.
Well, I got a new RAZER phone 2 (black satin) and a 3D printer for the holidays, so I decided to learn how to use the 3D printer by making a cooling controller grip for the phone. (So I can kick even more ass in COD and PUBG, among others - lol)
Anywho, this is a work in progress, but I thought I'd share it to see what people think, especially since the xda RAZER 2 forums are basically a ghost town!
* Cools phone and hands (attatch a fan!)
* Made to have a 40x40x20mm fan inserted from the top, (40x40x10 ok, also)
* Ergonomic cooling design, game better - longer
* Helps keep you from rubbing on charge port while charging and gaming
* Motor can be connected to a canibalized USB or OTG cable for a phone powered fan, & theoretically turned on and off with a "stop charge" root app. Or a 9volt battery. Use your imagination.
* Designed for the volume buttons to be on the bottom.
* Front Facing Camera unhindered for twitch streaming
* Easier to grip one-handed while multimediaing
* Keeps speakers unhindered for better audio (your hand doesnt block or cover them while gaming-FPS' mostly, I suppose
* Access to power button (I dont use it, though. I use the tap feature to wake and sleep device.)
* May work with other cases, but it was speciffically designed to fit the phone WITH a TUDIA case ON. (It's a great case)
* Made to fit the vast majority of Ebay/Amazon mobile triggers
* Its my first 3D design/print/mod, so be constructive, not rude.
* Pics below from early test version printed in low quality, neither sanded nor prepped
* Original design from thingverse user glang25, but it's heavily modded for our device.
* Licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.
I know, I went a bit crazy with the RAZER logos, but I do adore this new phone!
V1.4
*initial "release"
should fit a 40x40x10 fan.
Next version will support my preferred 40x40x20 fan.
V1.5
Model is bugged, currently reworking it
V2
Major rework of structure points.
Now fits up to 40x40x20mm fan
Minor adjusments to make phone fit better
Slight adjustments to the controller/grip shape
Pictures of unprepped low quality print of V2, in black, w/fan and phone, added below
Future hopes/wish list:
* Fit in a ON/OFF switch.
* Add USB rechargeable battery that can somehow charge the phone also.
* Add a "kickstand"
* Make Camera more accessible, specifcally for ARCore (Augmented Reality) gameplay.
* Design and implement built in 3D printed Ebay/Amazon style mobile triggers
* Add air vents to cool screen, also
* ??
* Future hopes/wish list items are not promised. Nor is future development/modding.
Ive included the .STL file for you to 3D print, if you so choose. Just let us all know you did, give recognition &....maybe post picks?? Its sandable and paintable!
Mod it all you want!
Design is offered as is, with no promises nor liability implied.
PRINTING NOTES/PRINTER SETTINGS
Printed with: Ender 5
Slicing program: Creality Slicer 1.2.3
Rafts: Yes
Supports: Yes
Resolution: 0.15 mm
Infill: 15%
Material Type: PLA (but you can use anything you like, really)
Material Amount: 46.18 meters, 138 grams
Print time: 16hrs 47 minutes
*licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.
This is a interesting idea, but doesn't the RP2 dissipate heat thru the screen not the back?
hackthis02 said:
This is a interesting idea, but doesn't the RP2 dissipate heat thru the screen not the back?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume it's from the back, as that's where the vapor chamber is. Also the pro case has vents on the back.
Saying that, I do notice the screen gets warm also. The phones aluminum frame seems to do a good job dissipating heat evenly. I might add a vent channel that hits the screen also.
Side note, just got the RAZER pro cooling case, AND will do tests. Might even adjust my print to fit it as the new case is actually thicker than the Tudia one. I use CPU float to check CPU, GPU and battery temps.
Also just got the Junglecat; currently messing with a better way to attach it to phone WITHOUT removing my cooling case and using that heat trapping Chroma blocking flimsy Junglecat one.
I've also made a landscape phone holder that can have your own qi coils placed inside. It's strong but very thin so I get maximum wireless charge. It still allows the Junglecat, while attached to phone, to wireless charge.
I printed mine clear, so that my Chroma lights up the whole dock at night
Curious if anyone is interested in those. (Junglecat one still being worked on.) - FINISHED!
To the users who voted "NOT INTERESTED" and "NOT READY YET"
Have any suggestions, or constructive criticism? I know this design isn't for everyone, but any thoughts?